How are RCA F38310 owners doing? - Page 8

Me too

My 2 year old (open box) JX4 has never needed repairs of any kind, BTW I am viewing my I-8600 with WUGA (1920x1220) on it right now. Getting such tiny print on my 15.4 w/s notebook, the answer for me was to output it to my said JX4(dvd movies, concerts, 'no' cable-tv). I turn on both by rf remote control and boot up at the same time, likewise I turn 'off' AC current/adapter to both by same r/c. Running the JX4 fan 24/365 is a big waste as your cpu fan 'stops' when your finished!

The Philips PH61153 Automatic Audio/Video Selector ($29.64 at both Menards & Walmart) includes a Ch. 3 output for older TVs. It claims to switch inputs automatically and to be controllable by a universal remote.
In retrospect, I guess I should have given this model a try. Walmart also has an RCA model (VH911) for $17.84 that is a simple mechanical switcher like the Philips PH61146.

canue, I agree about the 24/7 fan. I kill the power to my F38310 a couple of minutes after I turn the set off, just to blow some of the hot air out. No problems with my JX5 after 40 months, but I recently renewed the CC extended warranty because of all the horror stories I read here.

The component that failed a couple months ago has once again given up the ghost. CR14710 is a high voltage diode in the deflection power supply and when it goes, it really goes up in flames.

At this point I need to test the main power supply feeding the high voltage circuit. I think that it might be out of spec. From the schematic, the main power supply outputs 75V DC to the high voltage deflection power supply. A switching transistor takes the 75V DC from the main power supply, switches it at high speed to drive a step up transformer which supplies 1700V to the deflection rectifier bridge of which the CR14710 is a component. Whatever is going on, this part is breaking down at something above it's rated peak inverse voltage of 2KV.

Fun fun fun.

Well, I just got the word today that my 2 1/2 year old F38310 is unrepairable from the local repair shop. I'm not sure what the final verdict was, but the receptionist said the parts and labor were equal to or more than the set cost me. So now the ball is back in CC's court. I'm guessing I'll get a credit or check. Hopefully a check. I'll definitely be getting something a little lighter.

Its a shame about these sets. RCA was really pushing the CRT size/scan rate envelope on these. The technically better curved screen killed them I think. Everybody likes the flat screens.

ss

Its not to late these are still aviable at www.overstock.com

Thanks for the post of the link. But I would not buy one of these turkeys for half the price they are asking.

Had one for 3.5 weeks years back.................. Damn those things are heavy

Mine will be 3 years old in January and it is on over 12 hrs. each day.
I have not had one single problem and eveyone always asks what kind of tv I have since the picture looks so good. Maybe I just got lucky, but this has been the best set I have ever owned. Too bad they quit making them.

I took my own advice and tried the PH61153 automatic switcher. Unfortunately, there were two big problems with it. (1) It seems to amplify the color so that my LG LST-3410A suddenly had "red push" and color ghosting. (2) Faint "hum bars" could be seen from the LST-3410A unless the cable input was disconnected (my Comcast Digital Phone/cable line is not grounded to the "ground electrode" of my electric meter per NEC - a problem I need to correct).

The 3 other devices connected to the PH61153 worked just fine, and the automatic switching was a great convenience. I couldn't live with the problems on the LST-3410A however, so I returned the PH61153 and went back to the mechanical switcher. Everything is fine again.

Last night I had a power outage for most of the night. I woke up when the back up power for my security system started beeping. When I checked my 2 year old F38310. There was some phantom power. The beam was concentrated in the center of the screen. Right out of Poltergeist. I have no idea how long it was like that--- but I'm sure it caused some burn-in. I pulled the plug to stop the damage. When I woke up this morning, it would not power up. I'll be taking it into CC to see if they can fix it. I wisely bought the ESP.

I have all my electronic equipment connected to a Panamax surge protector
for that type of protection. By the way, does anyone know if the signal fed to the component inputs on this tv are upconverted to 1080i?

No; if you read the service manual alignment chapter closely, you will notice that there are three "native" scan rates for the F38310: 480p, 540p, and 1080i (and, watch out, there is a typo in the service manual where they list the 3 scan rates).

Popular wisdom has it that 480p over the component is "native"; 480i is upconverted to 540p and 1080i is "native". The F38310 does not tune 720p over the component input. There have been reports that you can input 540p directly via the component input using a HTPC. As far as the internal ATSC tuner goes (digital OTA and/or DirecTV HD), 720p is (up)converted to 1080i. It isn't clear to me whether internally tuned 480p is native or upconverted to 540p (there is conflicting information regarding how internally tuned 480p is handled). Internally tuned 480i is upconverted to 540p.

Later,

Joe

bump!

CC fixed mine. It took about a month. They replaced the whole board. Strangely, the usual suspect capacitors look fine. The surge broke something else, but he replaced the entire thing, including the capacitors. While it was down, I bought a 42" ED panny plasma. Now they are both up and running. I must say there are times when the ED looks better -- over 12' viewing distance

Well, I just filed a service call. My tuner no longer receives anything OTA. Not analog or digital.

It receives D* fine, although just channel 100 since I have it's service turned off.

We'll see what GG's service guy says.

Well I have skimmed through this thread and decided to post, despite what I have read. You all seem thrilled (mostly) with this set despite all the quirks/problems/etc.

I have an opportunity to by one of these sets used (with matching stand) for under $900...hopefully much less if my "or best offer" offer is accepted. Questions:

1. When I go look at the set, what should I be looking for? (generally vague question, I know)

2. I hope to be able to check the odometer while there. How many hours would be "too many" do you suppose?

3. I am hoping this guy bought an extended service contract. If so are they typically transferable?

3a. If there is no transferable service, given the age of the set (three or four years plus, right?) is it possible to still get a tech somewhere to look at it to cover future problems I may have?

4. I have already a SD D*TiVo, how will this work with the set? (Not sure which model I have, but I can check if needed. Hughes maybe?)

4a. can I connect the D*TiVo through the built-in D* tuner input?

5. I intend initially to use this set strictly for OTA HD...will I NEED any additional equipment other than an antenna?

6. How does this set do with PS2 games?

I think that's it for now...hopefully you guys are still out there loving this set enough to help me out! Thanks in advance...

1. When I go look at the set, what should I be looking for? (generally vague question, I know)

Does it turn on? Does the picture look good? Does it have (or can you bring) an HD source or at least a DVD player with progressive scan so you can see the picture? Ask if he has had the DM1 power supply diodes/caps replaced.

2. I hope to be able to check the odometer while there. How many hours would be "too many" do you suppose?

Don't think it matters. Check the model number -- if it is JX1 or JX2, it is an earlier model possibly prone to more problems.

3. I am hoping this guy bought an extended service contract. If so are they typically transferable?

I wouldn't know. You likely can purchase a warranty of your own through GE Warranties. See my faq for details.

3a. If there is no transferable service, given the age of the set (three or four years plus, right?) is it possible to still get a tech somewhere to look at it to cover future problems I may have?

You might have one look at the DM1 power supply, but I don't think he will be able to do anything more than check if the diodes/caps have been replaced.

4. I have already a SD D*TiVo, how will this work with the set? (Not sure which model I have, but I can check if needed. Hughes maybe?)

It should work like any other video input. The F38310 has one component video input, and 3 a/v s-video inputs. There's also two coaxial antenna inputs. What is the best video output for the TiVo? s-video? Use it.

4a. can I connect the D*TiVo through the built-in D* tuner input?

No. You can hook the built-in D* tuner to your directv dish and use it as a seperate tuner. You may need a new DTV card -- and you should be able to sweet talk DTV into giving you one for free.

5. I intend initially to use this set strictly for OTA HD...will I NEED any additional equipment other than an antenna?

You will need a coaxial cable to attach the antenna to one

6. How does this set do with PS2 games?

Shouldn't be worse than any other TV.

I think that's it for now...hopefully you guys are still out there loving this set enough to help me out! Thanks in advance...

Read the FAQ, link below.


Joe

DrJoe,
Thanks for the quick reply and in depth FAQ. I have printed it out and will read it over later, before I go and inspect the set.

One more question that I wish I had though of before.

If you had $800-900 to spend on a set and no more for the foreseeable future, would you go and try and find a new HD set (say the HD Sanyo's at WalMart) OR would your preference be to pick up another RCA F38310 , such as this used one? (assuming good working condition, of course)

That's a call you will have to make. The Sanyos are smaller, nd the tuner is OTA only. They are an existing line and presumably repairable, and will be under the manufacturer's warranty.

The F38310 is much larger, has an HD direcTV receiver, but has a (at best) questionable repairibility record. It is no longer being manufactured, and warranty's are expensive.

I don't know anything about the PQ or reliability of the (presumably Chinese imports) Walmart sells. You might do a search and see what folks say.


Joe

I would think you may be able to talk him down a bit for the following reasons:

If he has not had the caps and diodes replaced.

This Mpeg 4 thing happening with directv that from what I have read might render the internal directv receiver useless for newer HD in as few as 6 months. Debateable as to what Directv is going to do to help us out with a new receiver whenever that happens.

If its anything other than a JX5 model

Other than that if you can get it for a couple of hundred less I would do it. It has a great picture and is Bigger than any CRT you can buy now.

I'd buy another F38310 in a minute!

Depending on the known issues mentioned above (cap/diode problem) I'd check and use that as leverage to drive the asking price down. Also I agree that JX1 and 2's are shaky, JX3 is better... if it's JX4 or YX5 you're better off.

There's no comparison between the Sanyo HT30744 and the F38310. Although the Sanyo is a 'decent' set... it's doesn't come close in size and PQ (IMO). One note... the internal tuner in the Sanyo also receives unencrypted QAM (digital cable) in addition to 8VSB (OTA).

It's a tough call not seeing the set personally, but assuming all is well and in order, I'd offer $750 and see if he bites.

(If the set's in the Philadelphia region, let me know. I can help check it out... or buy it! )

How do they compare close up? I sit at the THX-optimal 50" from the 38" display. This yields image width of 36 degrees. The viewing distance for a 42" display would be 56". This would probably be my choice if my JX5 becomes unrepairable. The Sony 34" CRTs are nice, but the 45" viewing distance would not work with my recliner. The SED sets will be interesting if they have any models in the 38-42" range.

The 42" plasma was destined to be mounted above the bar in my den. Therefore, it would never be viewed closer than 10 to 12 feet. At that distance (with both sets fed an HD signal) you cannot tell the difference, in fact the plasma probably looks better. When viewing the plasma at closer distances (such as 56") you can see the screen door effect -- the lines between the pixels, whereas the individual pixels are not as noticeable on the F38310. However, when you get real close, you can see why the plasma can put out a better picture. If you pause a picture on your HDTivo and get real close to the F38310 you can see the individual pixels of the 1280 x 1080 shadow mask, or whatever it is called. However, the ray gun is not as accurate as the mask -- pixels shimmer and change. This is particularly noticeable on edges. On the other hand, on the plasma, the pixels are either bright, dark, red, green, blue or whatever. When the picture is paused, the pixels do not move or change.

I imagine that a 42" HD plasma (even at 1024 x 768) would be hands down better -- but it would cost you $3,000.

P.S. my wife is a big football fan and wanted to watched the super bowl from the den this year. It almost brought a tear to my eye.

Forgive my ignorance, and I should not even probably bother to ask, but where will I find these " JX" numbers? Presumably on the back of the set as part of a model number???

actually as you are looking at the front of the set the number is on the left lower side of the unit.

Or on the back...

gladysb2,
Also look for "dirty fingers". With a bright source like a movie with a sky view, or hockey game, look for some smudges that are on the INSIDE of the tube and can't be cleaned. If it has them it's some more bargaining power.
lo

Well how about an update. Did you buy it ?

not yet no. Trying to hook up with the seller, but we are on conflicting schedules...and now he is out of town!

Hope to still take a peek when he returns.

BUT, I saw a floor model 34" widescreen (phillips maybe? Don't remember for sure) at local BB for $650 so I may go back for that. There is a small chip in the screen, but I had a hard time locating it while in store. Maybe, just maybe...