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A better grey screen - Page 6

post #151 of 918
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by eameres
Hmmnn, they mixed mine up with just regular interior latex (eggshell, not flat). I wonder how the interior/exterior stucco/masonry angle affects things...

Just so there is no confusion see the attached photo. Now everbody can be on the same page.
LL
LL
post #152 of 918
Has anyone looked at the silver colors Glidden makes....go to the URL and then slide the ruler all the way to the right. There seems to be some good silver colors..... http://www.glidden.com/NUSGLI/colors/selector.htm
post #153 of 918
Unfortunately (in my opinion) those "silvers" to me are really just mroe shades of gray. I'm stalking a sprayless silverstar! I've got a few different pots on the stove right now, I'll report my results if they turn out encouraging. I'll give you one hint... behr's venetian plaster top coat... (jeez, now I'm starting to sound like dDog and CMRA!)

Eric.
post #154 of 918
From the Behr site,

"Apply using a straight-edged, flexible steel trowel or wall scraper. Round corners with sandpaper to reduce edge marks."

Woaa! What the @#$%& !

The other info can be found here
post #155 of 918
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by cburbs
Has anyone looked at the silver colors Glidden makes....go to the URL and then slide the ruler all the way to the right. There seems to be some good silver colors..... http://www.glidden.com/NUSGLI/colors/selector.htm

I tried their 'chromium'. I like the color. It resulted in typical grey fashion when used as a screen finish. That is, much improved blacks and more shadow detail but also crushed whites and duller colors. Ended up painting my storage room with it. But I like the color!
post #156 of 918
I just got my first HT pj yesterday, a HS10. I have a large, blank, smooth new wall painted several years ago with a Sherwin William eggshell off-white somethingorother paint. The out-of-the-box experience was pretty good. But, of course, I know it can be better with pj tweaking and a better screen surface. Reading this great thread today (and looking at Stewart and Da-Lite prices) has convinced me to try painting my wall.

I live in the middle of nowhere with no Home Depot or Lowe's nearby (try 75 miles - *SOB*). I do have Sears, Sherwin Williams, PPG and True Value close by. Not knowing much about paint.................if I take the Misty Evening Glidden formula just posted by CMRA can any good paint shop duplicate it? I assume that the best pure white flat latex is the starting point? Does anyone else have any experience with the HS10 and these kind of painted surfaces?

Thanks for all of the great info, all of you!

BTW, the new HS10 picture will also improve when the Bravo D1 DVD player with DVI output arrives soon!

John in Northern NY
post #157 of 918
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by eameres
I think what we need is a gray/silver metallic that is an eggshell finish (that's what the silverstar example appears like). All the paint manufacturers seem to assume if you want metallic, you want gloss.

Eric.

Any chance in taking a picture (close-up) of the silverstar swatch next to a grey or white swatch and posting it? BTW, do you know the current cost per sq. ft. price of the silverstar? Please post.
post #158 of 918
The silverstar is the priciest of the screens I've seen, you can contact the AVScience guys for a current price, but sit down when you read their response.

I don't have a picture handy, but the more experimenting and comparing I do, the more I admire the Silverstar. It is an amazing screen. A typical gray screens (including the professional ones) are not in the same ballpark. My hand keeps slowly inching toward the checkbook, but it would wind up being a large check.

I am still convinced that with the right spray equpiment and formula, you should be able to come up with something with some of the characteristics that make the SS so appealing. A white base with a light silver coating (like a proper ddog screen) show promise. Since I don't have a new sprayer yet. I'm experimenting w/ rollers and other temporary solutions.

If you botch a ddog screen (like I'm now convinced I did) it becomes a pretty good gray screen, comparable to the Misty Evening.

The silver coating is really the trick...
post #159 of 918
If you cannot afford a silver star, or afford the time, effort and frustration of experimenting (a lot!), you should avoid getting a screen sample of Silverstar, it will drive you nuts otherwise (as it has me) It's just THAT good (in my humble opinion).

Eric.
post #160 of 918
CMRA,

Here are 3 photos from Tryg's Screen Material Review. The first is a white unity gain screen from DaLite. DaMat 1.0


The second photo is the SilverStar.


The third is the FireHawk.
post #161 of 918
I just got a new HS10. I have been running standard DVD input with S-Video connectors for several days (a Bravo D1 is on order) and playing around with paint on a very smooth drywall. Throw is about 13' and I am getting a 94" wide image. Ambient light is controlled pretty well in our cellar HT. The FP is now on a table but will be ceiling mounted eventually.

I have been reading all about the HCCV, SS, Paint issues and now am evaluating a 1/2 flat white paint and 1/2 Misty Evening "ripoff" wall . I hve no Glidden dealer nearby. I painted the entire wall with a True Value thick, rubbery, block filler flat white paint that contains crystalline silica. Then I put a grey paint over 1/2 of the flat white. I tried to emulate the Misty Evening by mixing (to a quart of True Value bright white flat ceiling) six Black Lamp and 1 Thalo Green. With LOTRTT being the standard, so far, my family likes the white better. Blacks are great, screendoor is improved and saturation is better with the grey paint but there is no punch to the image like we get with the white. But the color accuracy and saturation with the white is lacking. I guess we have concluded we prefer the "bright TV"-type picture like some others have alluded to. Bottom-line, I don't think any paint-on-drywall makes us happy so far and I will probably be buying a screen in the future.

Any suggestions or critiques on the paint? I plan to do nothing until I evaluate the images on the 1/2 grey - 1/2 white wall with the better DVD images from the BRAVO D1 with DVI-D input. More info and observations here from LCD users would help!

This is a great thread on a great forum! Thanks for all of the help!

John in Northern NY
post #162 of 918
Thread Starter 
Did you adjust your HS10 to compensate for the grey? If you don't your images will come out like Breakstuffs'.
post #163 of 918
Oops. Thanks for the reminder. I am still learning about all of this. After reading your post I just bid on the AVIA DVD and book on eBay. I am not drawing any conclusions until I get the Bravo D1 running AND calibrate. I am leaving the 1/2 and 1/2 screen up for awhile!

John in Northern NY
post #164 of 918
Well, I finally got to playing with the Behr silver fogged into the glaze today. I was spraying with an HVLP gun onto Doable board.

This is NOT an easy task. I didn't remember to bring strainers with me, and the gun plugged on me a couple times. I also should have thinned the glaze more and applied less... the silver had a strong tendency to mottle in it. In frustration I took the screen outside to wash it off with the garden hose. In the sun, I could definitely see that there is possibilities in such a screen however. So, weekend after next I'll bring strainers and try again. I think this has real potential but OMG what a royal PITA. I am wondering if it is humanly possible to get it right.

Chris
post #165 of 918
Thread Starter 
This thread needs a little spice. Here's a new screenshot. There's more where this came from on my other 'screen' thread. ( Z1 on Misty Evening )
LL
LL
post #166 of 918
here is a shot using Cloud nine, 1 lighter than Misty Evening, my digital camera isnt so good
LL
LL
post #167 of 918
another cloud nine shot
LL
LL
post #168 of 918
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by pestario
here is a shot using Cloud nine, 1 lighter than Misty Evening, my digital camera isnt so good

Something does seem amiss. What camera are you using? Have you tried different settings? How much better are your actual viewing results? Maybe someone with a similar camera can help.
post #169 of 918
Following this thread for a few weeks and it was perfectly timed for our newly upgraded theater. Had a 78" DaLite permwall 1.1 or 1.2 in our dedicated room, but I wanted more! Upgraded to the Epson TW100 and so I was pretty sure a gray screen would do the trick for the added contrast I wanted. Enter CMRA and Misty Evening.

I looked, but as others have mentioned, the East Coast HDs and Lowe's don't carry Parkland materials, so I improvised and got a sheet of some glossy white coated hardboard with the intention of painting the ME on the glossy side. Also made a 1x4 frame to solidify the whole thing. I scuffed the glossy white surface and, following CMRA's advice, I primed it with Kilz2 before coating with 3 coats of ME. I used the groovy foam roller since I figured it would give few nap issues - and because I couldn't find any fine nap cotton rollers at the HD.

Upon mounting we watched a few movies and I eventually got around to calibrating with Avia. One word: WOW! As CMRA keeps mentioning to folks, you must perform this calibration before you can get meaningful info from the comparison. My suggestion: watch a few scenes from a well-filmed and transfered movie (Attack of the clones, Lotr, Gladiator) and get to know them with your current screen. Even take pics if that will help. Then try the new one (ME, or your favorite silver concoction, etc) and recalibrate with Avia before any viewing. Then revisit those favorite scenes and take more pics in the same conditions.

My settings from the old screen to the new ME screen were dramatically different and I was unimpressed with the ME until I did it. It wasn't bad, but it was pretty dull. After calibration, the contrast was improved enough that I'm sold. The colors aren't changed dramatically and I notice none of the white issues others have mentioned. I should point out that I'm running a Bravo D1 player with the DVI output (there's no other way to run this thing as the component output is pretty poor) and the ME screen does convey a slight 3D effect as CMRA said at the beginning of the thread.

I watched a few more scenes in Attack of the Clones and Toy Story 2 last night and the picture is outstanding. The Matrix and Se7en will be other standards to test the improved contrast (I don't own Moulin Rouge). Maybe by this weekend I'll get those notched off the list. I also have to buy Monsters, Inc and Shrek to see more of the 3D effect. I'll try to post some screen shots from my watching, both from movies and HDTV.

Concensus thus far from me and the wife: better than the Dalite and the contrast alone is worth the $65 invested. Now I have to work on a masking system...
post #170 of 918
What da-lite material were you using? I like ME, but don't you feel you've given up some gain?
post #171 of 918
Don't know what the material was - got it used on eBay from a guy who had no clue and no documentation. Best I can figure it was pretty standard, basic material with a gain of around 1.1 or 1.2.

The ME reduced the overall light level, but I calibrated and the light output became very similar to the Dalite screen. In fact, one of the only differences I could detect (outside the improved contrast level) was a slight decrease in red color (using the red color filter). The TW100 had perfect color out of the box (using the Dalite), but with the ME, the Red level is slightly reduced - maybe -5%.

I could play around to "correct" that, but it will have to wait until I see Moulin Rouge again. In the meantime, I haven't noticed it in real-life viewing. The picture really pops off the screen now, with vibrant colors and now deeper blacks.

BTW, screen now is around 94", so even going that much bigger the picture improved. That much more impressive, I think.
post #172 of 918
Scoob-

I have the TW100 myself and have yet to set it up. Am very curious about the DIY stuff. Also mulling getting raw HCCV material from Dalite (about $4.50 SF) and making a DIY frame. Now the Siverstar tease comes along at a price that is in a different world. Don't mind making a mistake with a DIY ME screen, but a SS bumble would be painful. Am following your posts with keen interest.

Jeff
post #173 of 918
An appropriate followup to scoob5555..............

I am still waiting on my AVIA disk to arrive but I have learned to tweak my new HS10 with the 1/2 flat white and 1/2 "ripoff" Misty Evening drywall (see my earlier post.) Then my BRAVO D1 and DVI cable arrived today. WOW! Both sides of the screen improved dramatically and all artifacts are gone, including those on the mountains during the opening scene slow pan shots of NZ from LOTRTT. But the grey/ME side, after further tweaking including maximum contrast, just blows us away. If a rich uncle appears some day I may seriously consider the SS screen (or if a GREAT Powerbuy comes along) but until then................tomorrow I paint the entire wall with two more coats of grey! And the AVIA disk should arrive too!

John in Northern NY

p.s. L-COM has better deals on DVI-D cables. Unless you need longer than 15'.
post #174 of 918
Even with the same projector, screen, projected image size, the room or environment, and condition of the lamp/bulb would play a part in a projected difference between two people's observed results. Also, the capture process would play a part in this, too.
post #175 of 918
Here are some pics with my calibrated TW100 on the new 94" Misty Evening DIY screen. I'll post 4 or 5 of them with samples from HDTV, Gladiator, and LOTR. One per post as I can't figure out how to do more than one either. I'll work on the size as I go.
LL
post #176 of 918
LOTR pic
LL
post #177 of 918
Gladiator pic to compare to CMRA's and BreakStuff's.
LL
post #178 of 918
More Gladiator.
LL
post #179 of 918
Jscopus,

I agree with you about taking the chance on DIY before delving too deep in the money trap of the big-time screens. $65 total for my new screen and the above results show (me at least) that it is worth it and wasn't a waste. Of course what works for me may not work for you, but it's worth the shot. And if you don't like the ME, you can simply stretch the Dalite material over the frame you built for the ME screen. So it works well no matter what.

Hope this helps.
post #180 of 918
Scoob-

Great stuff. Am sheepish to say those are the first pics I have seen from the TW100. Never was able to demo it- bought it on a recommendation/ProgCentral review and amazing connection/deal in Japan for $2100. Just turned it on to make sure it worked. Am pretty juiced seeing these pics. I may simply buy the HCCV material and make a frame. Figure that will run about $150. Just need to find the post with the best directions for a sturdy frame.

Jeff
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