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Hitachi tweaks Q&A thread - Page 3

post #61 of 430
Anyone have a soft copy they are willing or able to share with me? I would like to focus my lenses, but based on recommendations I need the SM first. Thanks

PM is fine.
post #62 of 430
Is there any reason to do the static focus and not the mechanical lens focus? I am pretty new at this, so I would prefer to do just the static via the focus pack knobs behind the grill on my 57TWX20B. Will this static focus help my set? Also the SM recommends to receive the circle pattern. How do I do that on my RPTV?
post #63 of 430
do both pill, to me at least on every mechanical i have down it has shown much more results than electrical
also remember that if there is a error even slightly in manual that no amount of electrical focus will fix it so again do both you won't regret it
personally i like the full convergence grid to focus, looking at the center and all 4 corners to get the best overall, not the best in the center only don't go for that go for a even focus all around that should help you not notice (as much) the less focused corners
post #64 of 430
I think you'll get the best results by doing an electrostatic first, then mechanical, then electrostatic again. I agree with Gary, the mechanical is the most important. Get both perfected and you'll be amazed at the difference in detail and clarity.

Also, doing a mechanical focus is really not hard at all. I took off my s500 screen without any instructions, only with the knowledge that I had to pull the screen up and loosen the magic focus wires inside the cabinet(new 500 series only). I'm not a handy man or familiar with these electronics either and was also very hesitant about taking off my screen like so many out there. But it really is easy to do, just take it slow and be careful not to drop, bang, or scratch anything.
post #65 of 430
Thread Starter 
You can also perform mechanical focus by going in throught the back (Without removing the screen). But I advise you have a friend view from the front to verify focus.
post #66 of 430
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by pillguy
Anyone have a soft copy they are willing or able to share with me? I would like to focus my lenses, but based on recommendations I need the SM first. Thanks

PM is fine.

There is nothing in the SM to assist you on focus that has not been posted here on this forum. Just follow the links on focus and read up.
post #67 of 430
Sounds good. I am waiting for my new DVE calibration DVD to arrive. Dont I need it to display the cross hatch and circle patterns for calibration? Or is there a way on the 57TWX20B to display these without a calibration disc? If so, I can get started with the manual focus today!!
post #68 of 430
I have a HIT 57TWX.....and am considering getting a Bravo D1.. I currently have a progressive scan low end pioneer. Do you think i will notice a increase in PQ with the change to DVI on t he D1?
post #69 of 430
You can use the convergence grid in the user menu to do your focusing.

Set magic focus to manual and hit start. Once you're in the convergence screen, pull the red and blue apart at the left,right,and center, so you can see all 3 lines clearly.

Try to get the best focus for all 3 locations (left,center,right) for all 3 colors.

Remember that the red will be the tightest, followed by green, then blue.
For blue, you'll want to tighten as much as you can, but with as little purple hue around the lines and without the blue turning into a greenish blue. You don't have to worry about this for red and green, just focus those are tightly as you can.


If you're a perfectionist like me, you'll get the best results by doing electrostatic focus again after you've completed the manual.

Goodluck
post #70 of 430
I have read many forum posts with disappointing results with regards to the DVI DVD players (Bravo D1, Sammy 931). In addition to my question above, if DVI does not look that great on CRT RPTV's because of the D-A conversion, why does HDTV look so amazing, and much better than the regular progressive DVD PQ? Will I get near HDTV quality with the DVI player and upconverting (720p, 1080i)?
post #71 of 430
Quote:


Originally posted by pillguy
I have read many forum posts with disappointing results with regards to the DVI DVD players (Bravo D1, Sammy 931). In addition to my question above, if DVI does not look that great on CRT RPTV's because of the D-A conversion, why does HDTV look so amazing, and much better than the regular progressive DVD PQ? Will I get near HDTV quality with the DVI player and upconverting (720p, 1080i)?

HDTV looks better than 480p DVD simply because of the increased amount of picture elements that make up the picture.

more pixels = sharper picture.

720pX1280 > 480x852
post #72 of 430
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by pillguy
if DVI does not look that great on CRT RPTV's because of the D-A conversion, why does HDTV look so amazing

Nobobdy said DVI does not look great. DVI just does not look much better than component due to the extra D/A conversion required in CRT sets. Bill has stated that the DVI DVD players tend to look best in 480p with the Hitachi sets. This is because these players do a poor job of scaling to 1080i. They do better at 720p, but there is no point since Hitachi must convert this to 540p/1080i.
post #73 of 430
I did some experimenting of my own with the various isf settings and came to some conclusions.

I much prefer the picture quality with the sharpness settings at 20, y-dtl-0 at 07 and with srtga and all aprtr parameters at 00.

srtga acts as edge enhancement and with anything greater than 00, the picture looks unnatural due to the edges of everything being thicker. To me it gives the effect of actors/objects against a blue screen with the special effects in place in the background.

The aprtr settings seem to act similarly to srgta. I'm not sure exactly what it does, but it adds thickness and enhances the brightness of certain parts of the picture. For example, when watching the two towers, I saw more detail in frodo's face, but in the same scene Frodo's collar became brighter and stood out.

I found that raising the y-dtl-0 setting from 07 created extra noise and gave a slight outlining to all objects. Decreasing the value made the picture much softer and seemingly less focused, which smeared fine detail.

My conclusions were that srgta and aprtr add unnatural effects to the picture and take away greatly from the 3dimensional effect. the Sharpness settings on the other hand, don't add any unnatural effects, it acts just like the sharpness setting in the user menu. You have to adjust it to the perfect point for the best detail without noise, but no other unnatural effects are created. I found the best point to be at 20. As for y-dtl-0 I prefered it at 7, this settings allowed me to see the most detail, but again without any unnatural effects. The picture was MUCH more natural, filmlike, and 3dimensional with these settings.

I also didn't notice any extra ringing/ghosting created from the Sharpness parameters. I checked with the sharpness pattern and the resolution pattern. And I didn't see it from judging by the picture on actual movies either.

Keep in mind I'm watching my 51s500 from 10ft away, so those who sit closer may want to decrease the values of sharpness and maybe y-dtl-0. And those sitting even further away may like to increase it.

So experiment to see what you like, I just thought I'd give people some more options to try.
post #74 of 430
I just got the Hit 46F500 from Sears over the weekend and out of the box the picture is very disappointing. There are problems with the focus (ghosting??), the picture looks very pixelated at times, and the colors seem a little off. I talked to the reps at Hitachi and they were useless, telling me that unless I was watching HDTV or a DVD I would not see a quality picture in 16:9. The book that came with the TV is basically useless. I'm connected to a RCA Direct TV receiver. I've see a lot of good information on here from Marc and Mfusick and others both I have some questions.

1) I wanted to try and use some of the suggested changes to the ISF menu but cannot figure how to get into it. Is there another button on the 41' model. I do not have an "input" button on my remote.

2) Would it help my picture to used the S-video input on my RCA receiver instead of the standard cable?

3) Would the Hitachi warranty or the Sears 3 yr warranty cover someone coming out to adjust the TV?

Any help/suggestions that you can give me would be appreciated. I'm a beginner and a lot of this is like a foreign language to me. I really want to fix my set so I can be happy with my purchase. Thanks.
post #75 of 430
Quote:


1) I wanted to try and use some of the suggested changes to the ISF menu but cannot figure how to get into it. Is there another button on the 41' model. I do not have an "input" button on my remote.

If you will read some of the posts in this thread, you will see links to other threads that cover this in detail. You can also do a search for "hitachi tweaks" and should get some great info. As for the SM access....I have found the easiest way is to hold down the input button on the front of the TV (with the TV off) and press the power button. As you press the power button, you must release both buttons at the same time. INPUT and hold, then POWER, then release both the instant you press POWER.

Quote:


2) Would it help my picture to used the S-video input on my RCA receiver instead of the standard cable?

I would just go ahead and get component outs, or maybe DVI. Not that you will notice an immediate increase in Picture Quality (PQ) but no need spend the $$$ on s vid when you can get component. Also, are you watching standard TV (SDTV)? Pop in a DVD and check out the picture quality. Is it better? Also, you may want to change the aspect ratio to cater to your viewing preferences. Experiment.

Quote:


3) Would the Hitachi warranty or the Sears 3 yr warranty cover someone coming out to adjust the TV?

I would personally not let them touch my set. I would look into professional calibration. It will cost you a few hundred $$$, but well worth it. Post a message on the forum asking for recommendations for an ISF calibrator in your area.
post #76 of 430
Oh, and MAKE SURE YOU WRITE DOWN ALL OF YOUR SETTINGS BEFORE YOU START CHANGING ANYTHING.
I know there are over a hundred, but do it. Trust me.
post #77 of 430
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by jcarr72
1) I wanted to try and use some of the suggested changes to the ISF menu but cannot figure how to get into it. Is there another button on the 41' model. I do not have an "input" button on my remote.

2) Would it help my picture to used the S-video input on my RCA receiver instead of the standard cable?

3) Would the Hitachi warranty or the Sears 3 yr warranty cover someone coming out to adjust the TV?

Any help/suggestions that you can give me would be appreciated. I'm a beginner and a lot of this is like a foreign language to me. I really want to fix my set so I can be happy with my purchase. Thanks.

Buy a setup DVD like AVIA or Digital Video Essentials

1) re-read the instructions to get into the ISF menu...you don't use the remote, you use the front panel

2) Definitely!!! Coax is the worst connection you can make...all ways use the best connection available (component, S-video, composite, then 75 ohm coax last)

3) probably only if there was a problem with it...won't hurt to ask
post #78 of 430
Quote:


Originally posted by jcarr72


1) I wanted to try and use some of the suggested changes to the ISF menu but cannot figure how to get into it. Is there another button on the 41' model. I do not have an "input" button on my remote.


If you have to ask this- You should probably stay out of the service menu.

Anways--- the INPUT BUTTON is not on the remote. It's on the TV, under the flap.


Quote:


Originally posted by jcarr72

2) Would it help my picture to used the S-video input on my RCA receiver instead of the standard cable?

YES. Reduce dot crawl and improve picture quality. Hitachi's have great S -video picture quality, and SDTV picture quality.

Quote:


Originally posted by jcarr72

3) Would the Hitachi warranty or the Sears 3 yr warranty cover someone coming out to adjust the TV?

Don't know... I know Circuit City covers picture quality (and thus adjustments needed to make picture perfect) in writting. I have no idea what Sears claims or does not claim to offer. Call them is my best reccomendation.

Quote:


Originally posted by jcarr72

Any help/suggestions that you can give me would be appreciated. I'm a beginner and a lot of this is like a foreign language to me. I really want to fix my set so I can be happy with my purchase. Thanks.

The Hitachi 46W500 is actually alot nicer RPTV than the 46F500. You might try and exchange, or if Sears does not carry it, try another dealer.

The 46W500 can be had for the same price at 46F500 in most cases.

46W500 has much better VIRTUALHD II processor, and better SDTV cable picture. I have seen both back to back on SDTV feeds. 46W500 does 1080p upconversion and uses a different/new/more advanced algorithym for upconversion of interlaced 480i sources to progressive scan display than the 46F500 (only 540p..not newer 1080p chipset) I have read that some disagree that there is no difference- but my eyes have suggested otherwise a few times.

Also- 46W500 features better remote (S series remote) new user menu with defeatable 4 step black level expansion, 4 level defeatable SVM, user menu access to color decoder, ability to shut off individual CRT guns for color calibration with AVIA setup DVD or the like, and built in DVD player. Most reject the idea of the DVD player built in... but- If you purchased the matching stand like most... that extra shelf will really come into play as your system grows. Also- the DVD built in gives better picture quality than a seperate DVD player with component cables... I have no idea why? But it does.

ALL IN ALL-

My reccomendation is to learn and perfect the manual convergence option and make sure your convergence is tight... buy AVIA set up dvd or like DVD and set it up correctly..... and read AVS and learn more and more.

When you brave enough to enter the service menu... change COLORGO value to reduce redpush.... and tune color decoder with AVIA

If you could swap for the 46W500 at little or no charge (very possible) I would also suggest that.

Read all the Hitachi tweaks links.... learn convergence, focus, SVM, picture settings, grayscale, ect.... these are all worthwhile tweaks.



Hope that helps
post #79 of 430
HOW THE HELL DOES MARC KEEP BEATING ME LIKE THAT.....

HE SNEAKS HIS REPLY BEFORE MINE EVERYTIME


I NEED TO LEARN TO TYPE FASTER
post #80 of 430
Thread Starter 
46W500 also has the improved stretch mode of the S500s
post #81 of 430
I was wondering if anyone that does calibrations would have any field feedback on the Hitachi 57S500 series. I have been reading the Hitachi Tweaks thread and allmost all the tweaks are for late model Hitachi, not the 2004 model. I was interested in a good red push fix. I tried a few settings from the tweaks thread and was not really satisfied with the results. I tried using the "02" values for red. I guess part of the problem is the greyscale is screaming to be calibrated, and I Sears swapped in a Mits 2003 model for the Hitachi, (the Mits reportedly has an accurate low temp setting) which brings me to my next question. Does anyone have field calibration data from greyscale calibrations on the 57S500 series? I was curious as to the cuts and drives values after greyscale calibration. I would guess that if enough data is collected we could all benefit from the data as I'm sure these sets fall within a tolerence as far as adjustment of greyscale. I'm counting on Hitachi's quality of manufacture, to gleen some consistancy in the greyscale calibration. I'm guessing that the greyscale may fall between a few values of adjustment, for all sets in a series, since they theroretically use the same components, manufactured in the same way. I would like to try those values out on my set if anyone has kept a log of greyscale calibration for a number of 57S500 sets. Also does anyone know how the out-of-box Black and White temperature setting charts? Is it anywhere near the 6500K and is it linear or all outta wack? Just trying to tweak my set to a quality picture it reportedly is capable of. Thanks

Best Regards,

Tony
post #82 of 430
Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
46W500 also has the improved stretch mode of the S500s

Good call

I forgot about that
post #83 of 430
Thread Starter 
daburgh, all the tweaks apply to the S500.

Grayscale is not something that can be ported set to set. Each set's calibration will differ. You must have a tech out with test equipment to properly cailbrate.
post #84 of 430
Thanks Marc:
I kinda knew that would be the answer, just assuming I could get a variation of greyscale readings that would sort of show some of the greyscale trending on these sets, I would try some of the values for the low temperature setting. The Hitachi's, (well at least mine) is miserable out-of-the box. I'm thinking of calling Sears and going back to the Mits RPTVs. I guess the Hitachi is capable but I hate to spend big bucks to get a calibration especially for the greyscale. Mits had a very accurate low temperature setting....that's half of the battle. Maybe my service contract will cover it, (an ISF Tech) or I had read on some forum that Hitachi will send techs out if you are within their 1 year warranty period to adjust the sets. Anyway, I'm not trying to be cheapo about it...I was laid off from my job. Thanks.
post #85 of 430
Thread Starter 
With Sears...you will be pretty assed out when it to grayscale. Their techs are not Mits authorized, let alone ISF certified.

Good luck (probably better to go back to Mits...or pay an ISF)
post #86 of 430
Hello

I noticed the following line in Mfusick's tweaks thread:

G-STR-0 02 00 "Green fix" set to 00

Would someone be able to clarify exactly what problem with green this fixes? I know there is lime green problem but the problem I am having is that after a VE calibration my blacks look green. When you select an input with no source the screen should be black but it just looks dark green. Will changing G-STR-0 to 00 fix this?

Thanks
post #87 of 430
Green blacks are a greyscale issue.....

Go into ISF service menu and Reduce your Green CUT slowly for a given color temp, like standard, high...ect....

Make sure to WRITE DOWN ORIGINAL VALUE OF ANYTHING YOU CHANGE SO YOU CAN CHANGE IT BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Drop green cut a few clicks and see if it helps... put a DVD movie in with dark scences........ and pause it.

Verify your changes on another scence like a flash tone...
post #88 of 430
Thread Starter 
You should still change G-STR-0 to 00 in addition to dropping the green cut
post #89 of 430
I believe the G-STR-0 to 00 fix was for issues with lime green, is that correct Mike/Marc?
post #90 of 430
YES
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