AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › * Offical Velodyne Support Thread *
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 264

post #7891 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

Does anybody know at which phantom voltage the DD-12's microphone operates? I mostly can't see any eq-curve with the sweep tones anymore. Only if I put the mic. 1" away from the woofer at subwoofer volume >30, I can see the curve.
But at normal listening distance there is no eq-curve at all. If I measure the DC Voltage with a voltmeter between 2 pins in the XLR-plug it
shows 11,7V. Is this normal? I tried another Velodyne microphone so it isn't the microphone or cable.

Also, when the volume level indicator is set at 30 without input signal, the woofer is a bit nervous, I can feel it moves as if there is some internal noise which gets higher with the volume. At volume 30 it is also a bit hearable. No real problem because the normal operating volume is 5-10 and then you can't hear it. Is there any circuit in the sub to eliminate noise from the mains outlet? Should external filters be used when the 220V has to be cleaned?

I am a new owner of this used woofer.

Hello
The EQ curve should appear once you enter setup (1 2 3 4 5.) Can you hear the sweep tones? In the upper right corner of the screen do you see "MIC?" If so verify that the cable is plugged into the bottom XLR input. Also try increasing the volume to the signal.
Yes, there is circuitry in the DD amp to prevent AC noise. With nothing connected to the DD12 but AC power can the noise be heard from over 5ft. away? If not, then the unit is working correctly. Yes, external filiters should be used when the 220V needs to be cleaned.
post #7892 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheeLoo View Post

Last week I received my new speakers, including an SPL800 Ultra. The third day I used the sub it started making pink noise on top of the signal. It was always there, slightly louder than the fan on my projector. I tried muting the sub and unplugging the signal cable, but the noise was still there. It did stop when I turned off the sub but it was still there when I turned it on. Entering the reset code didn't help. The next day when I was about to pack it up to bring it back to the store I realized I should try the main power switch on the back. This did help and it has been working for a week.

Is this something to be concerned about? I don't want it to reappear with a vengeance the day the warranty runs out.

By the way, can the supplied calibration microphone be used with a PC to do room measurements?

If power cycling has resolved the problem then you should be good to go, turning the unit off with the remote or at the front of the subwoofer does not actually cycle the power, it just forces the unit in and out of standby.

You might be able to use the supplied microphone with a computer program, but I would check to see if there are any recommendations provided by the software manufacturer. The supplied microphone is not as precise as your software may require.
post #7893 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by catdog2 View Post

Hello
The EQ curve should appear once you enter setup (1 2 3 4 5.) Can you hear the sweep tones? In the upper right corner of the screen do you see "MIC?" If so verify that the cable is plugged into the bottom XLR input. Also try increasing the volume to the signal.
Yes, there is circuitry in the DD amp to prevent AC noise. With nothing connected to the DD12 but AC power can the noise be heard from over 5ft. away? If not, then the unit is working correctly. Yes, external filiters should be used when the 220V needs to be cleaned.

I can hear the sweep tones, but I can't see it on the display. Only if put the mic. 1" away from the woofer cone with woofer volume at 60 I see the curve. Which is very loud. Much louder that the 70 dB which the screen indicates.
But I can't set the volume loud enough so that the curve is shown on the screen when using the sweep tones through my amplifier on 10 foot normal listening distance. There is no MIC indication in the screen. Not in the main screen not in the curve or settings screen. When I blow close in the microphone I see a reaction in the curve screen, so it looks like if the microphone signal is too weak. And therefore I asked if 11,7V phantom is enough. In the specs of the Behringer ECM8000 mic. I see it operates from 15-48V, so it might be a problem there.

About the noise.
As I wrote the woofer moves a bit nervous and sometimes I hear louder plops also. Increases with the volume as set on the woofer. After that I took another power cable with coils at each side, and I also took a Schurter Euro Mains entrance with built-in filter and put it before the power in connector. After that the woofer gives much less noise. And no loud plopping sounds anymore, but without input signal, at volume 60, the woofer still moves 2-3 millimeters back and forward with noise. It is barely hearable at 5 feet. Don't know if this is normal, because at normal volumes I can't hear it at all. But if the woofer should be dead quiet and without any movement of the cone due noise it might indicate a problem?
post #7894 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheeLoo View Post
----- SNIP -----
By the way, can the supplied calibration microphone be used with a PC to do room measurements?
This is slightly OT, but other AVS members have recommended the following measurement system (including microphone) which is easy to use and works from a PC or laptop:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...yton%20omnimic

BTW, I'm a very satisfied owner of one of the first Velodyne UDL-15 subs (circa 1987). It still works great.
post #7895 of 9028
HIGH PASS FILTER (XLR) IN DD PLUS?

Does anyone have any ideas about the designed load impedance for the XLR high pass output? I have a 10k ohm amp impedence for XLR, and the high pass filter via room measurements has a cross-over of around 300-400 Hz when set to 80 Hz! (more than 10dB down at 100 Hz compared with thru room measurement of mains) Being a passive filter, it must be designed for a far different impedence. Velodyne should really specifiy it.

I've measured the RCA HP response (into whatever impedence the sound card is, probably 47k) and that is accurate so the RCA HP probably designed around 47 k ohm.

PS anyone else have problems with a DD plus not responding to the remote, and having to power cycle, and being reluctant to produce output even with auto-on turned off?

----------------------------------- I think i'll answer my own question.

The XLR must be designed for 47 k ohm as well, if you do the 1/2 pii C R calculation, and assuming they have no internal load resistor at all, going from 47k load to 10k load lifts the xover from 80 Hz to 376 Hz, which is what I am experiencing. If I want to use it then, i'll have to use RCA (but my amp has 100k impedence there so xover will be at 38 Hz), or put in additional load resistors to make a 47k total load, which will cause some insertion loss.

Conclusion: HP only really useful if you have 47k ohm amp load impedence!
post #7896 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

I can hear the sweep tones, but I can't see it on the display. Only if put the mic. 1" away from the woofer cone with woofer volume at 60 I see the curve. Which is very loud. Much louder that the 70 dB which the screen indicates.
But I can't set the volume loud enough so that the curve is shown on the screen when using the sweep tones through my amplifier on 10 foot normal listening distance. There is no MIC indication in the screen. Not in the main screen not in the curve or settings screen. When I blow close in the microphone I see a reaction in the curve screen, so it looks like if the microphone signal is too weak. And therefore I asked if 11,7V phantom is enough. In the specs of the Behringer ECM8000 mic. I see it operates from 15-48V, so it might be a problem there.

About the noise.
As I wrote the woofer moves a bit nervous and sometimes I hear louder plops also. Increases with the volume as set on the woofer. After that I took another power cable with coils at each side, and I also took a Schurter Euro Mains entrance with built-in filter and put it before the power in connector. After that the woofer gives much less noise. And no loud plopping sounds anymore, but without input signal, at volume 60, the woofer still moves 2-3 millimeters back and forward with noise. It is barely hearable at 5 feet. Don't know if this is normal, because at normal volumes I can't hear it at all. But if the woofer should be dead quiet and without any movement of the cone due noise it might indicate a problem?

Hello
Which verison of the software does your DD12 have? If you have verison 2.0 or higher place your unit into the self EQ mode 3 2 1 The self EQ mode will set the volume/voltage level so that the mic will display the EQ curve as it EQ the room.

If the noise is not audible from 5ft away at normal listening level it is working correctly. Volume level at 60 (which is way to high) the noise is the amp hum the movement is the servo reacting to the hum. To test the woofer calibration point the remote at DD12 and press 6 7
post #7897 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by catdog2 View Post

Hello
Which verison of the software does your DD12 have? If you have verison 2.0 or higher place your unit into the self EQ mode 3 2 1 The self EQ mode will set the volume/voltage level so that the mic will display the EQ curve as it EQ the room.

If the noise is not audible from 5ft away at normal listening level it is working correctly. Volume level at 60 (which is way to high) the noise is the amp hum the movement is the servo reacting to the hum. To test the woofer calibration point the remote at DD12 and press 6 7

The software is version 2.2.2.
With self EQ, no curve is shown with mic. at listening position.
With self EQ, the curve is shown with mic. at 1" away form the woofer cone.

I did 6 7, the test started and some counter stopped ACCGAINH 55, then the unit reboots. No error message or something.

The noise, rumble can be heard good at volume 40 at 8ft., and a little at volume 10. Apart from the noise I hear a few loud plopping sounds every few minutes.

Can you give me an idea what a replacement amp will cost for a DD-12 when obtained from Velodyne? The unit is from 2005.
post #7898 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

The software is version 2.2.2.
With self EQ, no curve is shown with mic. at listening position.
With self EQ, the curve is shown with mic. at 1" away form the woofer cone.

I did 6 7, the test started and some counter stopped ACCGAINH 55, then the unit reboots. No error message or something.

The noise, rumble can be heard good at volume 40 at 8ft., and a little at volume 10. Apart from the noise I hear a few loud plopping sounds every few minutes.

Can you give me an idea what a replacement amp will cost for a DD-12 when obtained from Velodyne? The unit is from 2005.

Hello
Sending PM
post #7899 of 9028
Hello Pete,

PM received and answered, thanks.

A question about the large rush-in current when powering on the DD-12. It causes the subwoofer to blow out the fuse in my house. I heard that this is not an error, and all DD's do this in certain situations.

There are different electronic solutions to prevent this. The easiest is to put 1 or 2 NTC resistors in series with the power leads. Is this a well known solution for the DD-12 or is it a problem if say 4.7 Ohm is put in series with the power input?

Another option would be to put a few resistor's in series and bridge them after a few seconds with a relay. Then you have a 2 stage power on. This is technical the best solution because nothing is put in series with the power leads if the subwoofer is working.

And yes, I know I can put the DD-12 in standby mode, but I won't :-) The large rush in current is a bit destructive too for some components in the power supply in the long term.

All this can be done external ofcoarse to keep the DD itself original.
post #7900 of 9028
Probably answered before, but how exactly does the signal detection in auto-on work?

Reason being having difficulty with bass light souces such as the TV. It seems it uses the LP filtered signal before sensing, is this correct?

It quite often will stay off watching the TV, will turn on when there is some deep bass, then turn off again minutes later after it has incorrectly decided again there is no audio.

This is a DD-10+, with volume at about 25 through XLR inputs direct from a pre-amp, using through connections to feed a power amp. It should be getting enough signal to turn on reliably. An unpalatable option may be to fit attenuators into the power amp inputs, requiring the pre-amp output to be higher.

I've tried turning the auto-on off, but it didn't seem to make any difference.
post #7901 of 9028
hello velodyne, took a minivee 10 in my gramps storage. he told me that the amp is broken. can i buy an amp from you guys directly?
post #7902 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

Hello Pete,

PM received and answered, thanks.

A question about the large rush-in current when powering on the DD-12. It causes the subwoofer to blow out the fuse in my house. I heard that this is not an error, and all DD's do this in certain situations.

There are different electronic solutions to prevent this. The easiest is to put 1 or 2 NTC resistors in series with the power leads. Is this a well known solution for the DD-12 or is it a problem if say 4.7 Ohm is put in series with the power input?

Another option would be to put a few resistor's in series and bridge them after a few seconds with a relay. Then you have a 2 stage power on. This is technical the best solution because nothing is put in series with the power leads if the subwoofer is working.

And yes, I know I can put the DD-12 in standby mode, but I won't :-) The large rush in current is a bit destructive too for some components in the power supply in the long term.

All this can be done external ofcoarse to keep the DD itself original.

Hello
Yes there is a large in rush current on power up by design, but should not be causing a problem with the home electronic. contact your local installer to verify your external fix is the right way to go
post #7903 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by znil78 View Post
hello velodyne, took a minivee 10 in my gramps storage. he told me that the amp is broken. can i buy an amp from you guys directly?
Hello
Yes you can purchase the MiniVee amp from us. Please fill out & email return the attached parts order form form so we may get the sales order process started for you.

 

Parts Order Form.doc 34k . file
post #7904 of 9028
On a DD-12, how do I use the external trigger input? I have read the manual, but I can't find where the input is for the trigger signal. I heard it is on de RS232 port, but I can't find out the details.

Another question. Is there somewhere, maybe at the RS232 port, a second output for a led which is the same as used in the badge? It would be nice to have it external because it is out of my normal view and the brightness is very low too.
post #7905 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

On a DD-12, how do I use the external trigger input? I have read the manual, but I can't find where the input is for the trigger signal. I heard it is on de RS232 port, but I can't find out the details.

Another question. Is there somewhere, maybe at the RS232 port, a second output for a led which is the same as used in the badge? It would be nice to have it external because it is out of my normal view and the brightness is very low too.

On my downloaded manual on page 6:
(4) RS-232 OUT - Use this port to communicate with a second daisy-chained Digital Drive subwoofer. Also, the 12V trigger feature requires a 12V trigger signal (polarity irrelevant) across pins 7 and 9 of this port.

There is also a menu setup to enable the 12v trigger.
post #7906 of 9028
Where can I get an updated list of Velodyne dealers in Canada? I have send to Velodyne two emails and no answers from them... The support look to be very bad...
post #7907 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by tranle View Post

On my downloaded manual on page 6:
(4) RS-232 OUT – Use this port to communicate with a second “daisy-chained” Digital Drive subwoofer. Also, the 12V trigger feature requires a 12V trigger signal (polarity irrelevant) across pins 7 and 9 of this port.

There is also a menu setup to enable the 12v trigger.

Thanks!

I must have missed it. As new user there is so much to read :-)
I did notice the menu item.
post #7908 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by yxvolpe View Post

Where can I get an updated list of Velodyne dealers in Canada? I have send to Velodyne two emails and no answers from them... The support look to be very bad...

Hello
Please call Monday us at 408-465-2851 or PM me your phone number(so we can call you) and we will fine your closest Velodyne dealer. You can also find your closest Velodyne Dealer from our web page at http://www.velodyne.com/vdealer/canada.aspx
post #7909 of 9028
Is it possible to use the high-level inputs on the DD-12 with the speaker outputs of a CLASS-D stereo amplifier?
post #7910 of 9028
Hello,

Several months ago I purchased an SPL-1200 Ultra. I'm very happy with the quality and power of the sub's sound however I have a couple of issues I would really appreciate some assistance troubleshooting.

The first issue is the way the sub behaves at low volumes. It produces irregular sound (it cuts in and out) at low volumes or when watching material with little low frequency content. I am aware from reading the forums and the Velodyne support pages that Velodyne subs needs a strong input signal, however the sub still cuts in and out when I have it connected with a Y-cable and have the subwoofer out on the amp set to +12dB when the rest of the speakers are set to -1.5dB to -0.5dB. When it cuts in and out there is an audible click. This happens regardless of whether the auto power feature is set to "active" or "inactive" and regardless of whether I use the 12 volt trigger from the amp.

The second issue I have is that it appears that the auto power off feature cannot be turned off. Even when using the 12 volt trigger from the amp and with the auto power off set to "inactive", the sub does not produce any output until the first piece of content with a significant low frequency (such as a bass drum) is encountered. When it does start producing sound there is also an audible click.

I have tried changing over to my old sub to verify the signal into going into the sub and can confirm that the cutting in and out of the sound does not occur with my old (much cheaper) Yamaha sub.

Does this mean my sub is faulty? Is there anything I can do to stop the sub cutting out? Is there anything I can do to disable the auto power on feature?

Your advice/assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
post #7911 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by themagicpudding View Post

Hello,

Several months ago I purchased an SPL-1200 Ultra. I'm very happy with the quality and power of the sub's sound however I have a couple of issues I would really appreciate some assistance troubleshooting.

The first issue is the way the sub behaves at low volumes. It produces irregular sound (it cuts in and out) at low volumes or when watching material with little low frequency content. I am aware from reading the forums and the Velodyne support pages that Velodyne subs needs a strong input signal, however the sub still cuts in and out when I have it connected with a Y-cable and have the subwoofer out on the amp set to +12dB when the rest of the speakers are set to -1.5dB to -0.5dB. When it cuts in and out there is an audible click. This happens regardless of whether the auto power feature is set to "active" or "inactive" and regardless of whether I use the 12 volt trigger from the amp.

The second issue I have is that it appears that the auto power off feature cannot be turned off. Even when using the 12 volt trigger from the amp and with the auto power off set to "inactive", the sub does not produce any output until the first piece of content with a significant low frequency (such as a bass drum) is encountered. When it does start producing sound there is also an audible click.

I have tried changing over to my old sub to verify the signal into going into the sub and can confirm that the cutting in and out of the sound does not occur with my old (much cheaper) Yamaha sub.

Does this mean my sub is faulty? Is there anything I can do to stop the sub cutting out? Is there anything I can do to disable the auto power on feature?

Your advice/assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I do not think there is anything wrong with your subwoofer. I think what you are describing is the nature of the beast with these switching amps that we are required to use to meet certain government energy regulations. The good news is there are some settings I can recommend that will likely help resolve your issues.

With the switching amps the auto on/off circuit may not function properly if the input gain is very high and the subwoofer output is very low. Its a balancing act. I would return your LFE setting on the surround processor to the neutral 0dB setting and remove the Y-splitter. Then adjust the subwoofer volume up to your desired mix.

The second issue you describe with the slight delay is a result of the digital amp being in a zero state, then activating. This is where government regulation have come into play. In the old days when the amps were always on, they were in fact always on, today's digital amplifiers drop into a null state, similar to standby, when there is no signal for a period of time so they are not wasting energy. The always on feature does little more than regulate the LED display. Adjusting the settings as mentioned above may eliminate or reduce that click or pop you are hearing.

Please let us or your distributor know if the problem persists.
post #7912 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

Is it possible to use the high-level inputs on the DD-12 with the speaker outputs of a CLASS-D stereo amplifier?

If you are going to use the Speaker level outputs of your Class D stereo amplifier to send signal to the Digital Drive subwoofer instead of the RCA inputs, then there should be no problem.
post #7913 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougiles View Post

Probably answered before, but how exactly does the signal detection in auto-on work?

Reason being having difficulty with bass light souces such as the TV. It seems it uses the LP filtered signal before sensing, is this correct?

It quite often will stay off watching the TV, will turn on when there is some deep bass, then turn off again minutes later after it has incorrectly decided again there is no audio.

This is a DD-10+, with volume at about 25 through XLR inputs direct from a pre-amp, using through connections to feed a power amp. It should be getting enough signal to turn on reliably. An unpalatable option may be to fit attenuators into the power amp inputs, requiring the pre-amp output to be higher.

I've tried turning the auto-on off, but it didn't seem to make any difference.

The subwoofer's auto on is done by detecting the voltage across the input jacks. Almost all issues with a lack of bass while watching TV are a result of the signal or the bass management settings in your surround sound processor. Keep in mind that if your center speaker and main speakers are set to large or full range, then you may not get any bass sent to your subwoofer unless it is transmitted on a dedicated LFE channel.

Regardless of your speakers rated frequency response, you should set all speakers to small. Most processors are going to have a gentle slope on their low pass cross-over so a setting of 80-100Hz is still going to allow frequencies further down to be played from your main speakers.
post #7914 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

... what you are describing is the nature of the beast with these switching amps that we are required to use.

Thanks a lot for the quick and informative reply.

To be honest the initial impetus required to get the sub to actually activate is one that can be lived with. It's the cutting in and out that bothers me more.

If I watch material which is mostly dialogue (so the only low frequencies are from male speaking voices) the sub audibly cuts in and out even at moderate listening volumes. The problem does not go away even if I set the amp level to the threshold at which the sub cuts in and out and turn the volume up high on the sub. This just makes it more obvious that the sub is not producing output all the time.

I am currently using small (THX) speakers but will soon upgrade to a larger speaker configuration so the cutting in and out should become a lot less noticeable.

Do you have any other suggestions about how to stop the sub cutting in and out? Is there some way to trick the sub into staying on?!

If not I guess I'll just have to live with it and hope that it's no longer discernible once I have bought the new speakers. It's a little disappointing to have to make compromises though, given that it isn't a cheap, entry-level model.

Given that the sub supports the 12 volt trigger to turn it on and off, is there some good reason it is not configured to be permanently "on" when using the trigger?

Thanks again for your assistance.
post #7915 of 9028
Subwoofer issue - HGS-18, purchased April 2000, replaced amplifier through Velodyne in February 2009 - to put it as best I can the output is "distorted" at any volume level.

The output is what I would describe I hear when a car pulls up next to me and they have bass heavy music playing and it just sounds distorted, not the normal "clean/deep" bass I am used to hearing.

Is the amplifier gone bad already or do I have a more dire issue....I have tried power cycling the subwoofer (turn main power off then back on), but I will try that again tomorrow night by turning the main power off, unplugging everything, letting it set for a while, plugging everything back in and turning it back on.

Suggestions?
post #7916 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by themagicpudding View Post
Thanks a lot for the quick and informative reply.

To be honest the initial impetus required to get the sub to actually activate is one that can be lived with. It's the cutting in and out that bothers me more.

If I watch material which is mostly dialogue (so the only low frequencies are from male speaking voices) the sub audibly cuts in and out even at moderate listening volumes. The problem does not go away even if I set the amp level to the threshold at which the sub cuts in and out and turn the volume up high on the sub. This just makes it more obvious that the sub is not producing output all the time.

I am currently using small (THX) speakers but will soon upgrade to a larger speaker configuration so the cutting in and out should become a lot less noticeable.

Do you have any other suggestions about how to stop the sub cutting in and out? Is there some way to trick the sub into staying on?!

If not I guess I'll just have to live with it and hope that it's no longer discernible once I have bought the new speakers. It's a little disappointing to have to make compromises though, given that it isn't a cheap, entry-level model.

Given that the sub supports the 12 volt trigger to turn it on and off, is there some good reason it is not configured to be permanently "on" when using the trigger?

Thanks again for your assistance.
The sub will be on when you send it signal, if you are noticing the sub coming on and off then your system may not be blended well, this can be more difficult to achieve with satellite speakers than with bookshelf or tower speakers. I would recommend continuing to tweak the bass management system (cross-over controls) in your processor and the subwoofer volume while keeping the LFE output gain at the neutral 0dB.
post #7917 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by CycloneMike View Post
Subwoofer issue - HGS-18, purchased April 2000, replaced amplifier through Velodyne in February 2009 - to put it as best I can the output is "distorted" at any volume level.

The output is what I would describe I hear when a car pulls up next to me and they have bass heavy music playing and it just sounds distorted, not the normal "clean/deep" bass I am used to hearing.

Is the amplifier gone bad already or do I have a more dire issue....I have tried power cycling the subwoofer (turn main power off then back on), but I will try that again tomorrow night by turning the main power off, unplugging everything, letting it set for a while, plugging everything back in and turning it back on.

Suggestions?
Hello
Are you hearing any rattling with the distortion? Will the unit distort without a signal ? If no rattling the problem may be in the amp. Please fill out the attached form or call us at 408-465-2851.

 

RMA Form.doc 39k . file
post #7918 of 9028
Is there somewhere, maybe at the RS232 port, a second output for a led which is the same as used in the logobadge? It would be nice to have it external because it is out of my normal sight and the brightness is very low too.
post #7919 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

Is there somewhere, maybe at the RS232 port, a second output for a led which is the same as used in the logobadge? It would be nice to have it external because it is out of my normal sight and the brightness is very low too.

Hello
You can use the external remote input connection on back of the amp with a IR repeater which would give you a led and remote capable. Velodyne has tested and verified the IR input jack compatibility with the Xantech and Elan brand products.
post #7920 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by catdog2 View Post

Hello
Are you hearing any rattling with the distortion? Will the unit distort without a signal ? If no rattling the problem may be in the amp. Please fill out the attached form or call us at 408-465-2851.

Ah - as one would have it tonight the subwoofer is not having any problems......so it is intermittent, as it had happened before, then disappeared. Last night it was back and tonight it is gone......weird.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Subwoofers, Bass, and Transducers › * Offical Velodyne Support Thread *