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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 277

post #8281 of 9026
2/27/12 at 8:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnridgway View Post

Hello! I purchased 2 F-1500-b series subs brand new many years ago. Recently, within 60 days of each other, they both started making a horrible loud popping kind of sound and then produced a burning smell, and while they both still turn on, they don't really work and continue to make that sound (so of course I unplugged them as they failed). Can these be serviced still (I can pull out the amps), or can I install whatever part may be bad (I am good at electronics and would to just buy whatever component on the amp failed...I can certainly solder in the part)? I'm guessing this is a common problem since I bought them both brand new and they both did this within 60 days of each other. Thank you!

Hello
If the woofer is going to full excursion while making the loud popping noise then the problem is more than likely the servo and is not repairable. If the woofer is not moving then the problem would be found in the amp. Please call us at 866.243.0789 so we can email the schematic
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post #8282 of 9026
3/1/12 at 5:21am
I am getting an SMS-1 from Velodyne. I have had Anti-Mode in my system for the past 3 years and wanted to try something different, so the SMS-1 is it. Anyway, on to my question.

Should I run MCACC EQ calibration before or after SMS-1 auto EQ?

With the Anti-Mode the general concensences was to run it before MCACC, but from what I read it seems more people run the receiver EQ before SMS-1.

I do plan on using manual EQ in the SMS-1 if necessary after using the auto function on it.

Thanks
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post #8283 of 9026
3/1/12 at 7:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gov View Post

I am getting an SMS-1 from Velodyne. I have had Anti-Mode in my system for the past 3 years and wanted to try something different, so the SMS-1 is it. Anyway, on to my question.

Should I run MCACC EQ calibration before or after SMS-1 auto EQ?

With the Anti-Mode the general concensences was to run it before MCACC, but from what I read it seems more people run the receiver EQ before SMS-1.

I do plan on using manual EQ in the SMS-1 if necessary after using the auto function on it.

Thanks

There is no real 100% correct answer, but if it was me, I would run auto on the SMS-1, then run your MCACC, then make any final tweaks required in the manual mode on the SMS-1.
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post #8284 of 9026
3/1/12 at 7:47am
^+1

MCACC does not EQ the sub channel so it makes sense to me to apply the sub correction before running MCACC. There are several guys on the Pio threads who used various bass EQ systems and could add some info based on their experience. But several have abandoned that hybrid approach to EQ and moved over to the superior, integrated DSP RC of MultEQXT32 in the Denon AVR4311, so can be found on that thread these days.
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post #8285 of 9026
3/1/12 at 8:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

^+1

MCACC does not EQ the sub channel so it makes sense to me to apply the sub correction before running MCACC. There are several guys on the Pio threads who used various bass EQ systems and could add some info based on their experience. But several have abandoned that hybrid approach to EQ and moved over to the superior, integrated DSP RC of MultEQXT32 in the Denon AVR4311, so can be found on that thread these days.

MCACC does multi position standing waves down to 63Hz on the subwoofer though, hence my question as to which to run first. Also, MCACC accounts for the subwoofer level and distance as well.
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post #8286 of 9026
3/1/12 at 8:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

There is no real 100% correct answer, but if it was me, I would run auto on the SMS-1, then run your MCACC, then make any final tweaks required in the manual mode on the SMS-1.

Thanks for your input
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post #8287 of 9026
3/3/12 at 12:33pm
How would a optimum-12 do against a svs sb13-plus?
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post #8288 of 9026
3/3/12 at 8:01pm
Hi all,
I hope someone here can help me. I have a new Velodyne Optimo-12 12" sub. What I have been trying to do is get an IR sensor that will work with this sub. So far nobody including Velodyne's support can tell me what system will work and what I need to get. I have tried a Smarthome Hidden IR Repeater System and it doesn't work with the IR sensor over and next to the remote eye and with a direct line running in the input in the back of the sub. I would really appreciate any information that anyone can give me on this subject.
Thanks
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post #8289 of 9026
3/4/12 at 3:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishmanz View Post

Hi all,
I hope someone here can help me. I have a new Velodyne Optimo-12 12" sub. What I have been trying to do is get an IR sensor that will work with this sub. So far nobody including Velodyne's support can tell me what system will work and what I need to get. I have tried a Smarthome Hidden IR Repeater System and it doesn't work with the IR sensor over and next to the remote eye and with a direct line running in the input in the back of the sub. I would really appreciate any information that anyone can give me on this subject.
Thanks

What cable did you use to connect it directly to the input on the back? Hopefully not a standard cable ??
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post #8290 of 9026
3/4/12 at 4:51am
I have an old FSR15B in which I am pretty sure the servo is bad. Is there any way to disconnect the servo feedback mechanism? The surround is in perfect shape so I know its not that. I'm pretty sure Velo doesn't support the product anymore so I think my only option is to disconnect it somehow.
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post #8291 of 9026
3/4/12 at 8:57am
I used a 3 ft audio cable 1/8" stereo male to male adaptor from radio shack.
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post #8292 of 9026
3/4/12 at 8:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishmanz View Post

Hi all,
I hope someone here can help me. I have a new Velodyne Optimo-12 12" sub. What I have been trying to do is get an IR sensor that will work with this sub. So far nobody including Velodyne's support can tell me what system will work and what I need to get. I have tried a Smarthome Hidden IR Repeater System and it doesn't work with the IR sensor over and next to the remote eye and with a direct line running in the input in the back of the sub. I would really appreciate any information that anyone can give me on this subject.
Thanks

Hello
Velodyne has tested and verified the IR input jack compatibility with the Xantech and Elan brand products.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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post #8293 of 9026
3/5/12 at 7:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

How would a optimum-12 do against a svs sb13-plus?

An answer will need to come from another forum member, as Velodyne will refrain from commenting on other brands of subwoofers, especially open ended question that have answers that are subjective in nature.
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post #8294 of 9026
3/5/12 at 11:49am
i can understand that.

although i dont think all the info is subjective, the answer is no longer needed. thanks.
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post #8295 of 9026
3/6/12 at 9:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

I have an old FSR15B in which I am pretty sure the servo is bad. Is there any way to disconnect the servo feedback mechanism? The surround is in perfect shape so I know its not that. I'm pretty sure Velo doesn't support the product anymore so I think my only option is to disconnect it somehow.

Hello
By removing the servo feedback you have no control over the distortion so the quality of sound will not be the same and you could blow the woofer.


Having said this,if you still want to disconnect the sevo:

1. Unplug the FSR15 from the electrical outlet

2.Remove the 8-10 screws around the preimeter

3. Unplug the 16 pins 1x3 connector board from the main board

4. Pull the connector board out from the cabinet and disconnect the five pins green connector(servo)
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post #8296 of 9026
3/7/12 at 4:27am
Awesome. I'll try that. Thanks cat dog. As long as I don't go nuts with it I doubt I'll blow it.
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post #8297 of 9026
3/7/12 at 10:04am
I asked this before but just saw the official velodyne thread so I'll go ahead and put through the question for a Velodyne rep.

Hello,

I have an older Velodyne Servo F Series 10 subwoofer that I haven’t used in several years. I am about to hook it up to my Yamaha RX-V1000 receiver which has a subwoofer out jack on the back of the unit. The Velodyne has speaker level inputs and outputs as well as line level inputs and outputs. As I was going through the manual last night I noticed the following note in the sub manual.

“If your processor has a subwoofer out jack on it, in most cases it is best not to use it for connecting your velodyne” Instead we suggest that you connect your velodyne between the main or front speaker outputs of your processer and the amplifier that will drive them.”

As I understand it, they are instructing me to run speaker cable from my receiver to the inputs on the sub and then from the sub to my front speakers. I am considering upgrading my RX-V1000 to a Yamaha RX-A2010 receiver, would I still need to connect it through the speaker level connectors and if so will I lose anything that the new receivers provide?

Also will the subwoofer work properly with the newer receivers today?

Thanks for any help you can give.
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post #8298 of 9026
3/7/12 at 10:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mld218 View Post

I asked this before but just saw the official velodyne thread so I'll go ahead and put through the question for a Velodyne rep.

Hello,

I have an older Velodyne Servo F Series 10 subwoofer that I haven't used in several years. I am about to hook it up to my Yamaha RX-V1000 receiver which has a subwoofer out jack on the back of the unit. The Velodyne has speaker level inputs and outputs as well as line level inputs and outputs. As I was going through the manual last night I noticed the following note in the sub manual.

If your processor has a subwoofer out jack on it, in most cases it is best not to use it for connecting your velodyne Instead we suggest that you connect your velodyne between the main or front speaker outputs of your processer and the amplifier that will drive them.

As I understand it, they are instructing me to run speaker cable from my receiver to the inputs on the sub and then from the sub to my front speakers. I am considering upgrading my RX-V1000 to a Yamaha RX-A2010 receiver, would I still need to connect it through the speaker level connectors and if so will I lose anything that the new receivers provide?

Also will the subwoofer work properly with the newer receivers today?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Hello
Yes, the manual is instructing you to use the speaker level connection so that you don't use both crossovers(F1200 and the RX1000.) If your RX1000 has an adjustable crossover then set the F-1200 low pass crossover to it highest setting(100HZ.) Then set the RX1000 crossover to below 100Hz (80hz is usually is good place to start.) Yes the F-1200 will work with the newer receiver of today. Most receivers will have the adjustable crossover so that you can make the line level connection. If there isn't an adjustable crossover then use the speaker level connection. This will work with all audio systems.
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post #8299 of 9026
3/8/12 at 7:53am
Need some clarification on the SMS-1. Is the "self EQ" and the "Auto EQ" a different thing on the SMS-1? The Outlaw SMS guide makes mention that the "self EQ" is a 25 sweep function and the "auto EQ" is up to fifty sweeps. Is the "auto EQ" more thorough then?

Thanks
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post #8300 of 9026
3/8/12 at 8:37am
My RXV1000 does not appear to have a changeable crossover. There is a note in the receiver documentation that “The low frequency 90hz and below from all main, center, and rear speakers are directed to the lfe channel when you select the small speaker setting”.

So it sounds like I am locked in at the crossover point being 90hz. Am I best to set the crossover setting on the sub to 90 in that case, if I use the subwoofer out jack on the receiver and set the other speakers to small?

Thanks for the help
Mike
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post #8301 of 9026
3/11/12 at 8:27am
Have SPL-1000 ultra, and now Im thinking to go on DD-10.

Is big difference between those two models?

And, does have same remote codes? Now my Velo codes are mixing with preamp, and that is not good.
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post #8302 of 9026
3/11/12 at 8:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mld218 View Post

My RXV1000 does not appear to have a changeable crossover. There is a note in the receiver documentation that The low frequency 90hz and below from all main, center, and rear speakers are directed to the lfe channel when you select the small speaker setting.

So it sounds like I am locked in at the crossover point being 90hz. Am I best to set the crossover setting on the sub to 90 in that case, if I use the subwoofer out jack on the receiver and set the other speakers to small?

Thanks for the help
Mike

Hello Mike
Set the sub to it's highest(100hz)
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post #8303 of 9026
3/12/12 at 7:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.sah View Post

Have SPL-1000 ultra, and now Im thinking to go on DD-10.

Is big difference between those two models?

And, does have same remote codes? Now my Velo codes are mixing with preamp, and that is not good.

The Digital Drive series subwoofers will have less distortion than the SPL Ultra series, along with a vastly more in depth room equalization system. In the case of the new Digital Drive Plus series they will also play louder and deeper than their SPL-Ultra equivalent. So, Louder, Deeper, Cleaner, with a full 8 band parabolic equalization system.

The Digital Drive series subwoofers have different remote codes from the SPL-Ultra.
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post #8304 of 9026
3/12/12 at 7:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gov View Post

Need some clarification on the SMS-1. Is the "self EQ" and the "Auto EQ" a different thing on the SMS-1? The Outlaw SMS guide makes mention that the "self EQ" is a 25 sweep function and the "auto EQ" is up to fifty sweeps. Is the "auto EQ" more thorough then?

Thanks

Yes Self EQ and Auto EQ are different.

Self EQ is the an automatic equalization mode that is independent of the rest of your audio system. Only the SMS-1 and the subwoofer are used for this EQ mode, with the SMS-1 sending sweep tones down the LFE output directly to the subwoofer.

The Auto EQ mode looks at your whole system. The SMS-1 sends sweep tones out the "EQ Output" jacks into your sound processor, through the processors bass management system, then measures not only the subwoofer's response but also the interplay with your main speakers across the crossover range. The SMS-1 then automatically adjusts 8 bands of equalization at fixed frequency points.
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post #8305 of 9026
3/12/12 at 8:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.sah View Post

Have SPL-1000 ultra, and now Im thinking to go on DD-10.

Is big difference between those two models?

And, does have same remote codes? Now my Velo codes are mixing with preamp, and that is not good.

the DD's are nice but they are really expensive. You can get an equivalent sub for a fraction of the price.
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post #8306 of 9026
3/12/12 at 11:23pm
I bought a used Optimum 10 from an amazon retailer who says they tested it for 2 hours before shipping and it worked flawlessly for them. And it worked flawlessly for me for about 30 minutes and then i start getting an intermittent buzzing through the subwoofer. the sound is what we used to describe as teens in my car audio days as a blown speaker. just not a pleasant sound. Got to the point where that's all it would do, if anything at all. I've swapped 3 sets of interconnects, had it hooked to my krell preamp as well as my marantz pre-pro. same results. So, now I'm faced with shipping it back and risking the retailer claiming it works for them and sticking me with a 20% restocking fee. I guess my question is, should i just send it to morgan hill instead for repair? is this a common fault, or does anyone have any other suggestions for troubleshooting?
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post #8307 of 9026
3/14/12 at 11:06am
Rob,

I am thinking of using two of the SC-IF/IC subs with one SC-1250 amp for an install that I am planning. I will be mounting the subs in some hollow floor to ceiling columns.
A couple of questions, first are the left and right inputs dicreet to the left and right outputs? I want to know if I can use the Audyssey XT32 to set phase, etc. on the two seperate subs as they will be placed in two different positions in the room.
Also, as far as output and extension what other Velodyne powered subs can I compare these too? They will be in roughly a 4000cu ft. room.

Thanks!
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post #8308 of 9026
3/14/12 at 11:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by speavler View Post

I bought a used Optimum 10 from an amazon retailer who says they tested it for 2 hours before shipping and it worked flawlessly for them. And it worked flawlessly for me for about 30 minutes and then i start getting an intermittent buzzing through the subwoofer. the sound is what we used to describe as teens in my car audio days as a blown speaker. just not a pleasant sound. Got to the point where that's all it would do, if anything at all. I've swapped 3 sets of interconnects, had it hooked to my krell preamp as well as my marantz pre-pro. same results. So, now I'm faced with shipping it back and risking the retailer claiming it works for them and sticking me with a 20% restocking fee. I guess my question is, should i just send it to morgan hill instead for repair? is this a common fault, or does anyone have any other suggestions for troubleshooting?

This is not a common fault.

To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer's inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
If the subwoofer is working you will hear the bass portion of the music, this means the problem is elsewhere in your system. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.
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post #8309 of 9026
3/14/12 at 11:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MusicFirst View Post

Rob,

I am thinking of using two of the SC-IF/IC subs with one SC-1250 amp for an install that I am planning. I will be mounting the subs in some hollow floor to ceiling columns.
A couple of questions, first are the left and right inputs dicreet to the left and right outputs? I want to know if I can use the Audyssey XT32 to set phase, etc. on the two seperate subs as they will be placed in two different positions in the room.
Also, as far as output and extension what other Velodyne powered subs can I compare these too? They will be in roughly a 4000cu ft. room.

Thanks!

The left and right inputs maintain stereo separation back through the outputs RCA jacks. This allows stereo separation to be maintained when daisy chaining devices or using the internal high pass filter.

Internally the left and right signals are summed, so two subwoofers hooked up to one SC-1250 operate in dual mono.

The SC IC/IF subwoofers contain 12 inch drivers. Two of these subwoofers can provide theater reference output in a room up to about 3600 cubic feet.
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post #8310 of 9026
3/14/12 at 10:20pm
I recently acquired a ULD-18 ii in walnut. The foam surround looks to be in great condition for its age, maybe because it's been in AZ for most of its life, or maybe the surround was replaced. Regardless, there is a small tear in the foam, about a half inch long. I assume that would affect the performance, but I also wonder if operating the driver with the tear can cause more damage to the driver? Is there any way to repair it without replacing the foam? As for replacing, I've found sites that have Velodyne specific replacements for 15 size and smaller, but only generic replacements for 18's. What's my best bet, one of the custom makers? Does anyone have the measurements?

Finally, I would like to remove the driver and take a look inside. Is there any concern with doing so? Anything I should check for? I know the servo is connected because the cone tightens up when I turn the amp on.

This is a beautiful piece of equipment for being 20 years old. Thanks for the help.

Jason
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