* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 279

Hello Rob,

I'm in Europe,

however in my previous post I was referring to the female XLR high pass outputs issue.
Thanks.

Wow...Did I not read the post before answering...lol. OK phail for me.

So yes, the earliest version of the amplifier panels came with all the XLR connections the same. This has been changed on subsequent production runs. A set of adapters will solve this issue.

Rob Morse, do you have anything to say about what CJ wrote?

This was the issue to which I was referring to when I mentioned the 1/2 watt standby.

On the second part of his statement regarding input signal, it is true it is possible to send too much signal to the input of the subwoofer which can cause signal clipping. I recommend using the neutral 0dB gain on the LFE channel, if you add gain I would refrain from going beyon +5dB. This should still allow ample head room.

Optimizing the auto on/off performance is all about finding the balancing act of inbound signal to outbound signal. If you have too much input signal and your sub volume is set too low it may not trigger, just the same as if you have too little input signal coming in. Ideally you are looking to find a setting where the subwoofer volume on the DD+ is between 10-30 volume.

It should also be noted that there is a trim pot on the DD+ that can reduce the amount of input signal going into the subwoofer. This could cause you to mistakenly think you are sending more input signal to the subwoofer than the subwoofer is actually receiving.

Another trick is to experiment with the use of a Y-splitter. This will effect the signal strength the subwoofer is seeing. Some people find the subs work better with them, and others find they work better without. Its just another tweak to try when dialing in your system.

Finally consider your crossover setting. If your setting your LFE to 60Hz or 40Hz because your main speaker play deep, you need to accept that very little signal is being sent to the subwoofers. Consider setting your crossover between 80-120Hz. Remember that setting your crossover at 100Hz with a 12dB/octave slope is still going to send extended bass to your mains. The signal will only be 12dB down at about 50Hz. But the increase in crossover point will allow more signal to get to the subwoofer reducing the likelihood it will go into standby.

^^^

Thanks Rob. So should I scrap the Audyssey settings, go into my Denon, adjust to zero and then calibrate the sub from there with an SPL meter...hopefully hitting the 10-30volume range?

^That would work more or less, but to insure reference bass levels, you would need an accurate way to measure the sub. Many report the commonly used affordable SPL meters like RS brand are not accurate measuring absolute levels in the bass. (Those meters are useful to compare say, FR to FL)

Therefore it is better to adjust the sub's vol control w/i that 10-30 range and then rerun Audyssey/Autosetup. Do the minimum mic positions (usually 1 or 3), calculate and check the setting of the trim in the sub channel to see if it's pretty close to 0 (-5 to +3). Repeat adjusting the sub vol control and rerunning Audyssey as needed, then run the full max # mic position calibration.

Thank you SoM. I'll give it a try this weekend.

I agree there is a bunch of back an forth to really dial in the sub perfectly. If you don't have a sound meter and want the cheap down and dirty, close enough for government work solution...

Run the DD's real time response graph with with the sub muted and adjust your amplifier's volume so the signal response is in the 70-75dB range, then run the Auto EQ+ set up.

Next adjust the subwoofer volume to between 15-20 and run Audyssey.

Finally adjust the LFE gain to the target range and adjust the subwoofer volume to your prefered listening level.

It seems my DD10+ also has female XLR connections. Are you sending the set of adapters to customers due to design error?

And please public response, no PM, thank you.

Velodyne is not distributing adapters to customers. Only individuals utilizing the output XLRs are affected, those who are connecting from the LFE out of their processor to the LFE in on the subwoofer have no issue. If you are one of the select few that will be using those XLR output jacks, you may have the electronics pack serviced under the manufacturers warranty.

How would you compare the eq max 15 to the optimum 12 for deep crisp ht usage as well as fast hard hitting music. The room will be approximately 3000 cu. Ft.

Hi all. Im in the market to pick up a DD12+. My room is about 2500cf, and I'm wondering what is everyones thoughts on this sub as there are not many reviews on the 12 that I could find. Also any idea on what the sell for used, in mint condition as opposed to buying new. (What would be a good price)

Thanks in advance
Joe

Both the Velodyne EQ-Max 15 and the Optimum 12 are rated for room volumes of 4582 cu ft (EQ-Max 15) and 4270 cu ft (Optimum 12). Either one of these would be fine for a room of 3000 cu ft.

The Velodyne EQ-Max 15 is a ported subwoofer design, while the Optimum 12 is a sealed subwoofer design. The sound of the ported style enclosure is deep and punchy, while the sealed style of enclosure is deep and tight.
Both of these subwoofers will sound great, but which one you will like is subjective. You should try listing to these models at a local dealer in your area.


Jeff Davis
Product Support / Technical Assistance
345 Digital Dr, Morgan Hill, Ca. 95037
Phone: (408) 465-2848 Fax: (408) 779-9208

For information, I just tried this and it still doesn't override the 0.5W board. i.e., the sub still shuts down after 10-15 mins with little or no signal. It gives me another way of re-awakening it though!

Any advice from some DD12+ owners. It would be greatly appreciated as I can't find anywhere to demo one.

Thanks

For the fist time watchn a blu-ray with my new Velodyne SPL-1500R, holy cowwwwwwwwwwwwwww. Watched Wall-E. That beast could shake a tank. Awesome, so glad I got it (paid $350 for it new, lucky me). I never had a sub with my surround sound setup before, boy was I missing

Wow, $350.00. That is an awesome sub. At that price I'll take 4.....LOL

In that case will be replaced only the female XLR outputs or the whole amplifier backplate?
Thanks.

That is at the discretion of the service provider.

Have you turned on the 12volt trigger option from the subwoofer's menu?

Yes. In point of fact, the subwoofer responds to the 12V trigger in terms of coming on/off irrespective of the setting on menu page 2. I've tried it with the setting at "12V Trigger" and "Inactive". In either case, it stubbornly shuts down after 10-15 mins with no signal.

You can then re-awaken the sub with the remote or by toggling the 12V trigger.

Is there anyone that can lend a bit of in-site? It would be much appreciated.

I'm a DD12+ owner. My room is about 54 mc ( it should be about 1900 cf). There the 12" IMHO works great. Fast, punchy, deep powerful bass capable, both in ht and stereo listening. Obviously the prerequisite is a good room equalization, and a careful blend with your mains.
For price advices, sorry, I can't help you all that much: I'm in Europe (Italy), and here the prices are higher than in US.
Bye

Thanks for the response. I have a dd15 that I'm looking to replace with the new DD12+. From what I read on there site, it supposed to match the output of the original dd15.

Joe

@ PlatinumSV

If the levels are comparable with those of DD15 I can't say it for sure (I owned a DD10). What I surely know is that in the conditions I previously summarized and with the subwoofer volume set to "10" and an LFE output level (on my pre-pro) set to -4.5 dB I'm really satisfied and, if needs, there is still enough headroom to increase levels and impact. However all DD+ series is designed to go deeper and with more SPL in the very low frequency range (approx 10 - 30 Hz) in respect the old DDs.
Bye.

We have duplicated your results and are currently working on a solution for you and your distributor.

The DD12+ is recommended for rooms up to 5000 Cubic Feet.

F1200 with broken Volume:

I have an F1200 from 1997 with a touchy volume knob that has just gone from only working with the knob set at certain volume levels, to the sub only producing sound while the knob is actually being rotated. I know I should just be happy that I have got so many years out of my sub, but the only thing broken is a small attenuator soldered to the board and it seems silly to trash it over that. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to repair a broken volume component?

The electronics portion of your subwoofer can be repaired by any local electronics repair shop. They can contact us for schematics if needed, and purchase the replacement parts off the shelf through their generic parts supplier.

I have "kind of" the same thing. I have a F1500 from May '94. I get no volume until I get past half way on the knob & then all of a sudden I get output but it's a muddy bass if that makes sense. It may be that the volume is turned up too high but I don't get anything if I turn it down.

I called Velodyne a couple of years ago & they said it is probably just the volume control & any electronics shop could fix it. I haven't done that yet as I live in AU & the sub is a 110v model.