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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 282

post #8431 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lic265 View Post

I have a 20 x 22 x 9 home theater room with a Velodyne HGS 15 sub. It is placed in the front corner about 4 ft off the wall. I was using a small REL 150e sub along the opposite side wall, but it has died.

What Velodyne sub would fit in well with my current HGS 15? It gives enough punch; i like the smoother sound with 2 vs 1 sub.

Also, any recommendations for room placement?
Thanks
G

I would look to either the Optimum or Digital Drive series subwoofers. The Digital Drive series subwoofers is our current flagship subwoofer with our digital high gain servo for limiting distortion, having replaced the HGS series when production was halted. The Optimum series is and audiophile grade subwoofer in its own right though without the servo mechanism.
post #8432 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljr View Post

Yes but how would you connect it to my system given it's connection limitations?

Anyone?

Since you link the MCD301 and mention the 501s with no mention of a pre-amp, I am going to assume your connecting the MCD301 directly to your 501s. If this is the case, run the MCD301 into the subwoofer's inputs, then the subwoofer's outputs to the 501s using either balanced or unbalanced connectors.
post #8433 of 9546
Rob, what size would you recommend ?
Thanks
G
post #8434 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lic265 View Post

Rob, what size would you recommend ?
Thanks
G

Any size is fine, the HGS 15 should be capable of filling that 3900 cu ft room on its own, so adding a second sub is about expanding the sweet spot and smoothing room response vs trying to add more volume capacity. There is nothing wrong with mixing different size subwoofers, only our own slavery to symmetry limits us.
post #8435 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

Since you link the MCD301 and mention the 501s with no mention of a pre-amp, I am going to assume your connecting the MCD301 directly to your 501s. If this is the case, run the MCD301 into the subwoofer's inputs, then the subwoofer's outputs to the 501s using either balanced or unbalanced connectors.

It's that easy?

wow

so then the sub will split the signal to the high and low allowing even more headroom for the 501's correct?

Good stuff if I have this understood correctly.
post #8436 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by eljr View Post

It's that easy?

wow

so then the sub will split the signal to the high and low allowing even more headroom for the 501's correct?

Good stuff if I have this understood correctly.

Yes the subwoofer's crossovers will send the bass notes to the subwoofer, and roll off the bass notes going to the 501s resulting in more headroom for the 501s.
post #8437 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

Yes the subwoofer's crossovers will send the bass notes to the subwoofer, and roll off the bass notes going to the 501s resulting in more headroom for the 501s.

awesome
post #8438 of 9546
Hi Rob,

I have a HGS-10 that had a bad amplifier. I recently send it in and received it. However, when I powered the unit it appears the woofer is dead. Do you have any advice on how to get my unit working again? Can I buy a replacement woofer from the velodyne site?

Thanks,
//df
post #8439 of 9546
Probably directed at Mr. Morse....but any help is much appreciated.

I have a ULD 15 purchased in '88 used with a pair of Dahlquist DQ 20's and between an Adcom preamp and GFA 555 power amp. Today it (the ULD) stopped working. I believe it's the amp because
1. the last few weeks it has been fluttering and thumping even when there is no music playing
2. I don't get the signature light "pop" that it always made when turned on
3. the sub itself does work when speaker wires are hooked to an amp
4. HOWEVER..as always since the ULD 15 amp is between the amp and preamp when the amp is on, the system is fine (other than the sub).

I will never ever give up my ULD 15. It is "my precious". So.....after checking all of the fuses and a lot of Googling... My options seem to be to
1. find a servo on ebay (there is a model 15-W on ebay for $100. will that work in place of the 15A7 that I have?)
2. have it repaired
3. use another big ass amp with a crossover. (not my first choice as I really like the "one knob" control)
4. Take it apart and try and replace the capacitors.

Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks in advance.

Andy
post #8440 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by djfremen View Post

Hi Rob,

I have a HGS-10 that had a bad amplifier. I recently send it in and received it. However, when I powered the unit it appears the woofer is dead. Do you have any advice on how to get my unit working again? Can I buy a replacement woofer from the velodyne site?

Thanks,
//df

I recommend contacting our product support team to have them walk you through a test for the driver. I would hate to have you pay for a driver replacement only to have it be some other issue. They can be reached at 408-465-2851, Mon-Fri between 7am-4:30pm pacific.
post #8441 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramaroodle View Post

Probably directed at Mr. Morse....but any help is much appreciated.

I have a ULD 15 purchased in '88 used with a pair of Dahlquist DQ 20's and between an Adcom preamp and GFA 555 power amp. Today it (the ULD) stopped working. I believe it's the amp because
1. the last few weeks it has been fluttering and thumping even when there is no music playing
2. I don't get the signature light "pop" that it always made when turned on
3. the sub itself does work when speaker wires are hooked to an amp
4. HOWEVER..as always since the ULD 15 amp is between the amp and preamp when the amp is on, the system is fine (other than the sub).

I will never ever give up my ULD 15. It is "my precious". So.....after checking all of the fuses and a lot of Googling... My options seem to be to
1. find a servo on ebay (there is a model 15-W on ebay for $100. will that work in place of the 15A7 that I have?)
2. have it repaired
3. use another big ass amp with a crossover. (not my first choice as I really like the "one knob" control)
4. Take it apart and try and replace the capacitors.

Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks in advance.

Andy

The first thing to do is to inspect the driver itself. You want to make sure there are no holes, tears, or rips in the surround. Assuming this is good, I would take the amplifier to a local stereo repair shop. Velodyne can provide the service manual electronically to aid in the repairs.
post #8442 of 9546
Understood. It's just that the minimum labor to open it up is more than I can buy a used one for. I found another 15a7 for $100 inc shipping.
post #8443 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramaroodle View Post

Understood. It's just that the minimum labor to open it up is more than I can buy a used one for. I found another 15a7 for $100 inc shipping.

This is a possibility, there are folks out there with working amps but their driver failed and the units are unrepairable. Be sure any second hand amp you purchase is the same version (series I or a Series II) and for the same size driver.
post #8444 of 9546
Thanks. Yes, it's a series II. Same model # 15 A7. Should be OK yes? (as long as it works)
post #8445 of 9546
Is it possible to control 2 DLS-5000r's with a single remote?
post #8446 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramaroodle View Post

Thanks. Yes, it's a series II. Same model # 15 A7. Should be OK yes? (as long as it works)

Yes
post #8447 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post

Is it possible to control 2 DLS-5000r's with a single remote?

Yes, there is no difference between remotes on any of the DLS-R series product, they are 100% interchangeable. If you have two units in range of the transmitter, they will both respond to any command given.
post #8448 of 9546
My 9 year old HGS15 recently began malfunctioning, the major symptom being extremely loud output (deafening, really) whenever powered up, even with no audio input. I removed the amplifier from the box and visually inspected it, without seeing any visible damage. When I called Velodyne support, I spoke with Jeff Davis, and he did a really great job helping me through the RMA process. I won't bore you with the details, but he went above and beyond to make sure the problem was actually with the amplifier, not the speaker itself, so that I did not waste time and money sending the amplifier in for repair.

I realize there isn't much exciting here, but most of the time people only post to the forum when something goes wrong, so I like to try and spread the word when a company takes the time and effort to do a great job. Thanks, Velodyne.
post #8449 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutt View Post

My 9 year old HGS15 recently began malfunctioning, the major symptom being extremely loud output (deafening, really) whenever powered up, even with no audio input. I removed the amplifier from the box and visually inspected it, without seeing any visible damage. When I called Velodyne support, I spoke with Jeff Davis, and he did a really great job helping me through the RMA process. I won't bore you with the details, but he went above and beyond to make sure the problem was actually with the amplifier, not the speaker itself, so that I did not waste time and money sending the amplifier in for repair.

I realize there isn't much exciting here, but most of the time people only post to the forum when something goes wrong, so I like to try and spread the word when a company takes the time and effort to do a great job. Thanks, Velodyne.

Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience. Jeff is fairly new to Velodyne but is an industry veteran, he is an asset to Velodyne and a true resource for our customers.
post #8450 of 9546
I have Dahlquist DQ 20 speakers and was told that I really should change the crossover point to 65 from the default 85. Although some people say that the 85 is a better spot, I'd like to compare. Where can I find the parts to make the switch? Thanks for the help Rob. You guys have always had great customer service.
post #8451 of 9546
Setting up my SMS-1 for the first time but I have an issue that seems to be the opposite of any related posts I found. Others were not getting sound from the sub... I get sound from the sub but nothing from the speakers. As a result, if I mute the SMS-1, the system response flatlines and stays there no matter how high I raise the volume on my receiver.

LFE Output on the Receiver goes to (LFE) Input (Red) on the SMS-1
LFE Output on the SMS-1 goes to the Subwoofer
Video Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver
EQ Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver

No issues with the on screen display... all other functions seem to work fine... just no sound from the speakers. Any suggestions?

Equipment:
Pioneer Elite SC-27 Receiver
Parasound 5250 v.2 Amplifier
Paradigm W5 LCR Signature Series Speakers


RESOLVED: Well, I could spare some embarassment by just deleting this post but 10 seconds after posting, I realized the external amplifier was shutting off because I forgot to activate the 12v Trigger for Video1. Duh! Oh well, maybe this will help someone else in the future. Back to setting up the sub.
post #8452 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramaroodle View Post

I have Dahlquist DQ 20 speakers and was told that I really should change the crossover point to 65 from the default 85. Although some people say that the 85 is a better spot, I'd like to compare. Where can I find the parts to make the switch? Thanks for the help Rob. You guys have always had great customer service.

If you PM me your email address, or send an email to service@velodyne.com, we can email you a copy of the service manual. The service manual includes instructions for adjusting the cross-over in the ULD 15.
post #8453 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Cobra427SC View Post

Setting up my SMS-1 for the first time but I have an issue that seems to be the opposite of any related posts I found. Others were not getting sound from the sub... I get sound from the sub but nothing from the speakers. As a result, if I mute the SMS-1, the system response flatlines and stays there no matter how high I raise the volume on my receiver.

LFE Output on the Receiver goes to (LFE) Input (Red) on the SMS-1
LFE Output on the SMS-1 goes to the Subwoofer
Video Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver
EQ Output on the SMS-1 goes to Video1 on the Receiver

No issues with the on screen display... all other functions seem to work fine... just no sound from the speakers. Any suggestions?

Equipment:
Pioneer Elite SC-27 Receiver
Parasound 5250 v.2 Amplifier
Paradigm W5 LCR Signature Series Speakers


RESOLVED: Well, I could spare some embarassment by just deleting this post but 10 seconds after posting, I realized the external amplifier was shutting off because I forgot to activate the 12v Trigger for Video1. Duh! Oh well, maybe this will help someone else in the future. Back to setting up the sub.

I am glad you were able to solve your issue, we have all been victim of one of those oversights. I had an issue myself a couple months ago when installing adding a second DD+ into my home system. I could not get my sweep tone to pass into the sub for quite some time until I finally realized the receiver was in direct mode bypassing all processing, so the two channel sweep tone was never being directed to the sub. Enjoy your SMS!
post #8454 of 9546
Question about the set up of my SMS-1. I have 4 subwoofers in my theater....2 PL-200s and two Klipsch RW-12d subs. I run all 4 thru my SMS-1. My room seems to have a large peak between 40hz and 70hz no matter how I position the subs. So I used the SMS-1 to lower the peaks to get a really good near flat response from 15hz to 90hz. The issue is for me to get it that way I had to use the eq bands to drop those peaks by moving them down to near the lowest settings. I reduced those frequencies to -11dbs to -12.5dbs. Is it safe for my subs to have those certain frequencies reduced by so much? Is it putting more strain on the subs? BTW...they sound fantastic set up this way.
post #8455 of 9546
^I'm no expert but here's my 2 cents. Using extreme EQ cuts as you have to tame peaks is "safe" for the subs and probably reduces their workload. I myself would think about adding bass traps to reduce those room peaks and thus not have to be so extreme with the EQ, but if you're happy with the resultant measurements and SQ, then adding bass traps is not likely to be high on your agenda.

OTOH, boosts of that magnitude would indeed put a lot of stress on the subs, greatly increasing the workload on their amps and speakers.
post #8456 of 9546
Turned on my 5000r a couple nights ago and it came on with a constant hum that won't stop. I tried turning off the main switch on the back and turning back on again, unplugging it and checking all my connections and AVR settings.

Can't see anything visibly wrong, but the hum won't go away. It's like the sound it makes if you take the cable end out of the receiver and touch it with your finger.


The cable running between my AVR and woofer is a 35-ish ft length of 75ohm RG6 cable, running through the walls/ceiling. I added the RCA ends myself.

Everything was fine until a couple of days ago - I did have a couple of other instances where this occured, but toggling the main on/off switch corrected it. Not this time.

The only thing that changed is that the other day I was working on some cable management in the back of my equipment cabinet (trying to make it look prettier). The woofer cable had been simply hanging down from where it exits the ceiling - I placed it over a hook above the cabinet.


FYI, the woofer is plugged into a Monster SW200 surge outlet as the woofer is across the room from where my main surge protector is.


Maybe I need to remove the RCA ends from the cable and reconnect them?
post #8457 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by capricorn kid View Post

Question about the set up of my SMS-1. I have 4 subwoofers in my theater....2 PL-200s and two Klipsch RW-12d subs. I run all 4 thru my SMS-1. My room seems to have a large peak between 40hz and 70hz no matter how I position the subs. So I used the SMS-1 to lower the peaks to get a really good near flat response from 15hz to 90hz. The issue is for me to get it that way I had to use the eq bands to drop those peaks by moving them down to near the lowest settings. I reduced those frequencies to -11dbs to -12.5dbs. Is it safe for my subs to have those certain frequencies reduced by so much? Is it putting more strain on the subs? BTW...they sound fantastic set up this way.

There is no danger to the subwoofers by reducing the signal at certain frequencies to obtain a smoother room response. You are not increasing the strain in any way. The peak you are experiencing is likely a combination of the subwoofers themselves and the rooms acoustics, I agree that looking into some bass traps may be a good idea.
post #8458 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post

Turned on my 5000r a couple nights ago and it came on with a constant hum that won't stop. I tried turning off the main switch on the back and turning back on again, unplugging it and checking all my connections and AVR settings.

Can't see anything visibly wrong, but the hum won't go away. It's like the sound it makes if you take the cable end out of the receiver and touch it with your finger.


The cable running between my AVR and woofer is a 35-ish ft length of 75ohm RG6 cable, running through the walls/ceiling. I added the RCA ends myself.

Everything was fine until a couple of days ago - I did have a couple of other instances where this occured, but toggling the main on/off switch corrected it. Not this time.

The only thing that changed is that the other day I was working on some cable management in the back of my equipment cabinet (trying to make it look prettier). The woofer cable had been simply hanging down from where it exits the ceiling - I placed it over a hook above the cabinet.


FYI, the woofer is plugged into a Monster SW200 surge outlet as the woofer is across the room from where my main surge protector is.


Maybe I need to remove the RCA ends from the cable and reconnect them?

The first thing to do is unplug the input cable from the back of the subwoofer, then turn the subwoofer on. Does it hum? If it does, the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if it does not then we should proceed with additional trouble shooting.

The next thing would be to connect a music source to the subwoofer directly using a different set of cables. If you choose to use a portable device such as an iPod, set the volume on the portable device to 3/4. Set the subwoofer's cross-over to direct or max, then play a song with good bass. You should hear the bass portion of the music. If the hum is present, then the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if there is no hum then the problem is elsewhere in your system.

If the problem is elsewhere in your system, connect the subwoofer directly to the receiver using a different cable than the one you normally use. Test the subwoofer, is the hum present? If so, the problem is likely a grounding issue in your system, if not, the problem is likely your RG6 cable.

If the problem is your cable consider using a wireless solution such as the Velodyne WiConnect system. This connects to any receiver and subwoofer allowing you to place the subwoofer anywhere within 50 feet of the source without the need to run signal cables.
post #8459 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The first thing to do is unplug the input cable from the back of the subwoofer, then turn the subwoofer on. Does it hum? If it does, the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if it does not then we should proceed with additional trouble shooting.

The next thing would be to connect a music source to the subwoofer directly using a different set of cables. If you choose to use a portable device such as an iPod, set the volume on the portable device to 3/4. Set the subwoofer's cross-over to direct or max, then play a song with good bass. You should hear the bass portion of the music. If the hum is present, then the problem is likely in the subwoofer, if there is no hum then the problem is elsewhere in your system.

If the problem is elsewhere in your system, connect the subwoofer directly to the receiver using a different cable than the one you normally use. Test the subwoofer, is the hum present? If so, the problem is likely a grounding issue in your system, if not, the problem is likely your RG6 cable.

If the problem is your cable consider using a wireless solution such as the Velodyne WiConnect system. This connects to any receiver and subwoofer allowing you to place the subwoofer anywhere within 50 feet of the source without the need to run signal cables.



Thanks, Rob. I'll try these troubleshooting tips and report back.
post #8460 of 9546
Rob - I just picked up an SMS-1 system on the used market. Downloaded the Outlaw's guide and started to read through it last night - have not yet connected (and won't until I get my other issue sorted).

I note that the SMS-1 has a 12V trigger - but I don't think it comes with a wire - does the SMS-1 need to be on whenever the AVR & sub are on? Just wondering if I need to pick up a 12V wire. I guess I could always just switch it on with the remote, but life would be easier with the trigger if it must be on.
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