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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 286

post #8551 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

First I will say that the SMS-1 is not intended to be connected to two different systems. Keep in mind that even when "powered off", there is still an electrical connection present and odd issues could occur. While often undesirable, a mechanical switch such as an A/B switch is preferable.
Having offered my disclaimer, it is possible to do what you want. You will need to configure different presets to each of the different subwoofers as the response from each will be different. The crossover in the SMS-1 can be set to different settings for each preset, allowing you to defeat it on the movie set up and engage it in the music set up.

Thanks Rob

I guess while I'm flicking switches a cable swap is not out of order although they would lose their tight fit sooner than later, might just try to source a high quality A/B switch.

Robert
post #8552 of 9545
As an FYI: The Velodyne offices will be closed on Wed July 4th for the American Independence Day Holiday. If you are in need of assistance please send an email to service@velodyne.com and we will answer all message on Thursday the 5th.
post #8553 of 9545
I recently picked up a bunch of used speakers which included 2 DPS-12s. One works great. One is dead. I called Velodyne and they were WAY helpful. E-mailed me a schematic if I chose to have our local repair guy work on it but, also said they could fix the amp for a flat fee of $190. So at that point I decided to pull out the amp and see if anything was obviously cooked. Well there is. If you look at this video (skip to 1:15) it is the same location on the board as this guy's. I however do not think mine was abused as this one was. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZmPAm3hLOY The question is...Does this look like something I should have a local repair place deal with or is the whole board cooked? The capacitor (the thing he keeps calling a transformer in the video) is not melted down like his. The focus of the heat seems to be the small component with it's own heatsink on it, labeled EQ801. Not listed on the schematic.
post #8554 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by grmichmush View Post

I recently picked up a bunch of used speakers which included 2 DPS-12s. One works great. One is dead. I called Velodyne and they were WAY helpful. E-mailed me a schematic if I chose to have our local repair guy work on it but, also said they could fix the amp for a flat fee of $190. So at that point I decided to pull out the amp and see if anything was obviously cooked. Well there is. If you look at this video (skip to 1:15) it is the same location on the board as this guy's. I however do not think mine was abused as this one was. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZmPAm3hLOY The question is...Does this look like something I should have a local repair place deal with or is the whole board cooked? The capacitor (the thing he keeps calling a transformer in the video) is not melted down like his. The focus of the heat seems to be the small component with it's own heatsink on it, labeled EQ801. Not listed on the schematic.

I watched the video and I can say with confidence, the subwoofer in the video is not a DPS series Velodyne subwoofer, the amp may be but the rest of the unit is not. This is a video of a Frankenstein subwoofer.

Now as to your unit, It is difficult to answer your question as there are many variables. The board may be fine as long as not electrical traces were damaged. It may be just a few components that are bad or several, in most cases we just replace the entire board assemblies.
post #8555 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

I watched the video and I can say with confidence, the subwoofer in the video is not a DPS series Velodyne subwoofer, the amp may be but the rest of the unit is not. This is a video of a Frankenstein subwoofer.
Now as to your unit, It is difficult to answer your question as there are many variables. The board may be fine as long as not electrical traces were damaged. It may be just a few components that are bad or several, in most cases we just replace the entire board assemblies.

Do you sell the assemblies? The thing is, I wanted to just turn around and sell this sub when it is fixed. The set of speakers came with two. I only needed one. However, I think, the most I could get for it is $200. Your flat fee is $190. With initial shipping...well that seems counter productive. If you're willing to say, in your opinion, would it be better to give up and maybe just sell the woofer/driver?

I should add, before I come across as offensive, that the other one sounds great and I love it. They are just older subs and I found that $200 is what they are selling for now. I also realize that $190 would be a great deal if I intended to keep it.
Edited by grmichmush - 7/9/12 at 4:32pm
post #8556 of 9545
I noticed on the velodyne site, that prices for subs have increased a minimum of 100 bucks, some even more. Quite a price hike.
post #8557 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by glangford View Post

I noticed on the velodyne site, that prices for subs have increased a minimum of 100 bucks, some even more. Quite a price hike.

The specials and sales that were running have ended and prices are listed at regular price. We are opening a Velodyne Certified Refurbished store on the website, while it is not public just yet, subscribers to our news letter and you the AVS forum community are able to view and purchase these subs before everyone else: http://velodyne.com/certified-refurbished.html?utm_source=July+2012&utm_campaign=June+2012+Newsletter&utm_medium=email
post #8558 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by grmichmush View Post

Do you sell the assemblies? The thing is, I wanted to just turn around and sell this sub when it is fixed. The set of speakers came with two. I only needed one. However, I think, the most I could get for it is $200. Your flat fee is $190. With initial shipping...well that seems counter productive. If you're willing to say, in your opinion, would it be better to give up and maybe just sell the woofer/driver?
I should add, before I come across as offensive, that the other one sounds great and I love it. They are just older subs and I found that $200 is what they are selling for now. I also realize that $190 would be a great deal if I intended to keep it.
The cost of the assembly is more than a rebuild, so for your purpose it may not be economical to continue with this sub.
post #8559 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The cost of the assembly is more than a rebuild, so for your purpose it may not be economical to continue with this sub.

Thank you for your honesty. I must tell you that Velodyne has been the MOST helpful large company I have ever dealt with. Over the phone was already one of the best customer experiences I've ever had and then to add the help and candidness that you've shown on this forum. Too bad it had to be over a blown sub.
post #8560 of 9545
Just bought a SMS-1 and been messing around with it. I have read the Outlaw guide and was very helpful. I am no pro just a little above avarage Joe when comes to home theater.

Here is my set up:
Pioneer SC-55, ran MCCAC by using the "Official" MCCAC thread.
SVS PB12-Plus, volume set just under halfway, about 10 feet from the sweet spot, placed in the back left corner
DefTech SuperCube 2000, volume set just under halfway, about 12 feet from the sweet spot, placed in the front right corner
I do have room treatments but no bass traps

The MCCAC set my sub setting to -8.5 but I moved it to 0 before I ran the SMS-1.

Then I ran the SMS-1 and did a manual eq. I turned off the crossover on the SMS-1 and using the SC-55 at 80hz.

I have attached a picture of my curve. How do I get the 100 and ups to even out? Any other advise is more than welcome as I am sure it is all wrong. tongue.gif
448
post #8561 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigham16 View Post

Just bought a SMS-1 and been messing around with it. I have read the Outlaw guide and was very helpful. I am no pro just a little above avarage Joe when comes to home theater.
Here is my set up:
Pioneer SC-55, ran MCCAC by using the "Official" MCCAC thread.
SVS PB12-Plus, volume set just under halfway, about 10 feet from the sweet spot, placed in the back left corner
DefTech SuperCube 2000, volume set just under halfway, about 12 feet from the sweet spot, placed in the front right corner
I do have room treatments but no bass traps
The MCCAC set my sub setting to -8.5 but I moved it to 0 before I ran the SMS-1.
Then I ran the SMS-1 and did a manual eq. I turned off the crossover on the SMS-1 and using the SC-55 at 80hz.
I have attached a picture of my curve. How do I get the 100 and ups to even out? Any other advise is more than welcome as I am sure it is all wrong. tongue.gif
448

If your cross-over is set at 80Hz, then the SMS-1 is going to do virtually nothing for frequencies over 100Hz as those are essentially not being played by the subwoofer. You might experiment with bringing your crossover up to 100 Hz but your curve looks good through out the subwoofer range.
post #8562 of 9545
Thank you for the help Rob.
post #8563 of 9545
I have a DD12 and the blue led indicator begins to be so dim I can hardly see it anymore.
Now I believe there is the possibility for connecting an external indicator light.

I don't mean an external IR eye but an external indicator light which does exactly the same as the lightened logo.

Can anyone confirm this? I cant find it at the Velodyne online store.
post #8564 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bert003 View Post

I have a DD12 and the blue led indicator begins to be so dim I can hardly see it anymore.
Now I believe there is the possibility for connecting an external indicator light.
I don't mean an external IR eye but an external indicator light which does exactly the same as the lightened logo.
Can anyone confirm this? I cant find it at the Velodyne online store.

The LED logo badge on the original DD units have been known to dim over time, unfortunately there is no external indicator and the only way to replace the LED is to replace the entire front bezel assembly.
post #8565 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigham16 View Post

I have attached a picture of my curve. How do I get the 100 and ups to even out? Any other advise is more than welcome as I am sure it is all wrong. tongue.gif
448

Bigham, it appears you and I have very similar equipment. I have the supercube reference and a SC-57. Looking at your graph mine is similar. I was wondering if anyone could weigh in on the 16-20hz dip/null. I'm assuming that is a limitation of our sub, not the sms-1? The few screen shots I have seen look similar, so I guess I would like to see a screen shot of a more capable system from say 12hz up to verify the sms-1 can pickup the lowest fqz.
Edited by popalock - 7/17/12 at 1:28am
post #8566 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Bigham, it appears you and I have very similar equipment. I have the supercube reference and a SC-57. Looking at your graph mine is similar. I was wondering if anyone could weigh in on the 16-20hz dip/null. I'm assuming that is a limitation of our sub, not the sms-1? The few screen shots I have seen look similar, so I guess I would like to see a screen shot of a more capable system from say 12hz up to verify the sms-1 can pickup the lowest fqz.
What you are seeing in the picture at the low end is the roll off of the subwoofer based upon its own limitations, and at 100Hz you see the roll off of the crossover setting.

As a note to all, I have seen many of these curves where the average dB level is around 80. This is a little high. We recommend turning down the subwoofer some and calibrating with the average dB between 73-76.
post #8567 of 9545
Hi Rob.

I have acquired a non-working hgs-10. Can the service department repair it?

Best regards,
Ed
post #8568 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

What you are seeing in the picture at the low end is the roll off of the subwoofer based upon its own limitations, and at 100Hz you see the roll off of the crossover setting.
As a note to all, I have seen many of these curves where the average dB level is around 80. This is a little high. We recommend turning down the subwoofer some and calibrating with the average dB between 73-76.

Ok, now with that said... A more capable sub set-up has the potential to show a flat response well below the 15hz indicated on the SMS-1 right? I guess what I am getting at is--- Does the continuous frequency sweep provided by the SMS when calibrating start @ 0Hz? This might be in the manual some where, but I'm just trying to gauge what to expect when I have my dual LMS Ultra's built... I've been told they can extend in the single digits. I have several friends on the site that are pleased with their LMS Ultra / SMS combo, but haven't asked for their calibration screen shots.
post #8569 of 9545
:)Velodyne Service department can repair your HGS10 Velodyne subwoofer. Email at service@velodyne.com.

Regards,

Jeff Davis
Velodyne Technical Support
post #8570 of 9545
I have 2 x DD15+ that I am running with a 2Ch music. I have been using Auto EQ set up.

I run these as Stereo L & R subs with the appropriate L & R line level signal into each amp.

My issue is that I am not sure how I should calibrate the subs.

1/ Should I calibrate one Mains and Sub seperatley i.e L Main and L Sub.
2/ Should I connect both subs using the RS 232 cable so one is the master and calibrate the master.

I am not sure which method to use for properly calibrating stereo subs or if there is a different way.

Hope someone can guide me in the right direction to calibrating stereo subs.

Thanks
Edited by dazbike - 7/23/12 at 7:40pm
post #8571 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazbike View Post

I have 2 x DD15+ that I am running with a 2Ch music. I have been using Auto EQ set up.
I run these as Stereo L & R subs with the appropriate L & R line level signal into each amp.
My issue is that I am not sure how I should calibrate the subs.
1/ Should I calibrate one Mains and Sub seperatley i.e L Main and L Sub.
2/ Should I connect both subs using the RS 232 cable so one is the master and calibrate the master.
I am not sure which method to use for properly calibrating stereo subs or if there is a different way.
Hope someone can guide me in the right direction to calibrating stereo subs.
Thanks

If you want stereo subwoofers, and not dual mono, then you would calibrate each subwoofer individually.
post #8572 of 9545
Thanks Rob, so when you say calibrate them speratley do you mean to run the Auto EQ on the left and then the right speakers (Main + Sub) seperatley?

My issue which is largely why I am confused is that I think that if they are set up seperatley then the correction on the sub is only applicable if that sub is playing. So once both subs are playing together (L&R) then the interaction with the room will not match the calibration made with each sub seperatley.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Also, are you saying that I do not need to run the subs as master and slave in a stereo configuration.

Thanks
post #8573 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazbike View Post

Thanks Rob, so when you say calibrate them speratley do you mean to run the Auto EQ on the left and then the right speakers (Main + Sub) seperatley?
My issue which is largely why I am confused is that I think that if they are set up seperatley then the correction on the sub is only applicable if that sub is playing. So once both subs are playing together (L&R) then the interaction with the room will not match the calibration made with each sub seperatley.
Hopefully that makes sense.
Also, are you saying that I do not need to run the subs as master and slave in a stereo configuration.
Thanks

If you are insistent upon having true stereo subwoofers, each of them having their own individual unique signals, then you would calibrate each subwoofer individually. Power off one subwoofer, then run AutoEQ+ with ones subwoofer and the left and right speakers, then repeat with the other subwoofer. You can still use the master / slave configuration for controlling the two subwoofers, but each subwoofer would have its own signal input from the left and right subwoofer outputs. note: unless you are feeding the subwoofer signal from the left and right mains, or your processesor specifically calls out discreet stereo subwoofer outputs, then your not actually running stereo subs.


For a dual mono in a master slave set up, you would run the Self-EQ on the slave subwoofer prior to connecting the RS-232. Next, complete the master / slave connection and run AutoEQ+ with the master subwoofer with both subwoofers on. Finally if you wish to enter the manual EQ mode, do so on the master subwoofer. Our assumption is that most individuals with multiple subwoofers will be utilizing this mode.
post #8574 of 9545
Thanks Rob. My preamp has true stereo out put for L & R subs. I have read the advantages of going for true stereo sub in a music system so wanted to keep to stereo. I was running EQ on the L and R but reading your response you mention to keep both speakers going while calibrating each sub. I have not tried that and will give that a go.

Thanks for the information on dual mono which I will also try to compare listening results.
post #8575 of 9545
I have 2 Velodyne SPL1200R and the blue led has failed on one of them, every thing else seems normal, sound from the driver, auto EQ, and volume adjust.
Does anyone know can the led be replaced?
Is this something that can be done by me or is a trip to a service center required?

Thanks
Jeff
Edited by JMG - 7/31/12 at 9:00pm
post #8576 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMG View Post

I have 2 Velodyne SPL1200R and the blue led has failed on one of them, every thing else seems normal, sound from the driver, auto EQ, and volume adjust.
Does anyone know can the led be replaced?
Is this something that can be done by me or is a trip to a service center required?
Thanks
Jeff

The blue LED on the SPL-R series can be replaced, but really should be sent in. It is not easy to get the LED out and extreme care must be taken when re-installing the LED as you must have an airtight cabinet when done. Any air leak and you will have unwanted noises during playback. I assume you have already tried the pressing the light button on the remote control to ensure it was not just turned off by mistake.
post #8577 of 9545
Hi Rob,
Yes I have tried the light button on the remote, I will check the service center listed on the Velodyne web site and see if they will do this work. I don`t think I want to send it back to the U.S., shipping cost would be probably be expensive and the hassle of border crossing issues are just not worth it.
I could just live with it because the sub seems to be functioning normally otherwise but unfortunately I am the kind of person who likes things to be working 100%.
Is the LED available for purchase for me to try the repair myself first?
Thanks for the reply.
Jeff
Edited by JMG - 8/1/12 at 6:02pm
post #8578 of 9545
As an FYI to the community there is now a new specials tab featured on the Velodyne Website: http://velodyne.com/specials.html
post #8579 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

I guess what I am getting at is--- Does the continuous frequency sweep provided by the SMS when calibrating start @ 0Hz?

Any input?
post #8580 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Any input?

I am sorry, I did some research and forgot to reply on this. The sweep tone starts at about 15Hz.
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