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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 288

post #8611 of 9546
Rob,

I'd like to use the single ended and balanced inputs on my SMS-1 from 2 different sources.

I use an Outlaw Model 990 for movies and SS music. I also use a Krell KRC-HR preamp for 2 channel listening, which has a home theatre pass through. I get awesome sound using 2 HGS 15's, but I think I could improve the bottom end, during movie/music listening, by doing the following:

I'd like to use the single ended subwoofer outputs from the 990 into each of my SMS units, for surround and the balanced outputs from the Krell, which is the current configuration. With the pass through engaged, the Krell has no effect on the sound.

Is this possible or highly un-recommended?

Any and all input is more than welcomed.

Thanks,

Bob
Edited by bobdacop - 9/2/12 at 11:53pm
post #8612 of 9546
I have a DLS-5000R that I bought new around 2005. The amp went bad when the unit was around 6 months old. The replacement amp was also bad. I finally got what I thought was a good amp on the third try, but ever since then it has a distortion problem that is so annoying that I have not used the sub in several years. It seems to happen mostly when I'm watching TV or recorded videos at low volume. The speaker puts out what I would describe as scratchy/crunchy distortion that coincides with the audio signal. It sounds similar to a dirty volume control on an amplifier. It's only noticeable at low volume. It doesn't happen at high volume. It's like the circuitry is allowing some parts of the audio signal to pass but not others. I have been very disappointed with the quality of this unit. I sure hope it's not typical of Velodyne's quality.

The bottom line is I'd like to be able to fix the sub. Can anyone help?
post #8613 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by grassy View Post

Awesome response and thanks,my avp has been upgraded to xt32. When i get the second sub i will have it proffessionally installed like the one i have as he did a fantastic job with this current sub and i never really had to adjust anything.These velodyne dd+ subs are trully state of the art and i am so happy with it. It even came with white gloves.eek.gif  The info you provided is excellent and i will be taking heed of your advice.smile.gif
Glad to be of help. You are well on your way to even more awesome bass for your HT!

He-he. I didn't get white gloves with my older DD10 subs but I did get them with my Dali Euphonia and Helicon speakers. The gloves sure add that extra last bit of tasty placebo SQ. wink.gif
post #8614 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdacop View Post

Rob,
I'd like to use the single ended and balanced inputs on my SMS-1 from 2 different sources.
I use an Outlaw Model 990 for movies and SS music. I also use a Krell KRC-HR preamp for 2 channel listening, which has a home theatre pass through. I get awesome sound using 2 HGS 15's, but I think I could improve the bottom end, during movie/music listening, by doing the following:
I'd like to use the single ended subwoofer outputs from the 990 into each of my SMS units, for surround and the balanced outputs from the Krell, which is the current configuration. With the pass through engaged, the Krell has no effect on the sound.
Is this possible or highly un-recommended?
Any and all input is more than welcomed.
Thanks,
Bob

The SMS-1 is not designed to take more than on type of input, or to be connected to more than one system at a time. Even if one system is always off, there is still an electrical connection and unpredictable results may occur, though nothing that is likely to cause damage. Ultimately, I would advise against it.
post #8615 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Daniel Sr View Post

I have a DLS-5000R that I bought new around 2005. The amp went bad when the unit was around 6 months old. The replacement amp was also bad. I finally got what I thought was a good amp on the third try, but ever since then it has a distortion problem that is so annoying that I have not used the sub in several years. It seems to happen mostly when I'm watching TV or recorded videos at low volume. The speaker puts out what I would describe as scratchy/crunchy distortion that coincides with the audio signal. It sounds similar to a dirty volume control on an amplifier. It's only noticeable at low volume. It doesn't happen at high volume. It's like the circuitry is allowing some parts of the audio signal to pass but not others. I have been very disappointed with the quality of this unit. I sure hope it's not typical of Velodyne's quality.
The bottom line is I'd like to be able to fix the sub. Can anyone help?

The DLS-5000 is a sub we see very few problems with, so I am surprised to hear you are having such difficulties. It also would have been better to contact us years ago when the issue was fresh and you were still covered under warranty. At this point I would encourage you to contact our product support team with the serial number of the unit so we can look up the history of the subwoofer and try to help. Product support is available at service@velodyne.com or 408-465-2851 Monday through Friday from 7am-4:30pm Pacific, though the offices are closed today for Labor Day.
post #8616 of 9546
Rob,

I kinda thought that was the case.

Thanks,

Bob
post #8617 of 9546
Rob,I wonder can you shed some light on to as to why the Velodyne 1812 was discontinued.
Perhaps as to the size and weight or more of the market,as she was pricey.
I do have one which I had the pleasure of auditioning at one of my audio haunts.
The owner of the store has a big room about 32X20X12,the bluray disc which he used for the demo is a killer for the bottom end+everything above.
Have to say it was like being there with the band and superb sound man,the disc is...Jeff Beck(Live at Ronnie Scott's).
If you have ever heard a great sounding drum kit live,then this is the disc providing the sub is up to it.
I had two F-113's and the dealer gave me the disc to try out at home(I was hoping to get the same sound that I heard in his room).
Played the disc and guess what....not even close,totally sucked.What a let down.
I was a tad depressed to say the least as I had never heard that type of bottom end before.I had used DD-15's before the JL's.
I called the dealer and told him it must be my small room,his response was....it doesn't matter the size of the room(he was right)
The dealer drove 3hr round trip so I could audition this beast in my small room(12X19X7:eek:).
He set the 1812 up and without the remote (which he forgot)we put the disc in and played a certain track BAM,there it is that superb bottom end.
Soon as I heard the first few notes I yelled THAT's IT.I couldn't believe that I could get that superb sound in my room,I haven't heard anything like the 1812 yet and I've heard a few big sub names that can't touch the 1812 for musicality.
The dealer did his walk about the room(while SADE)was playing listening for the best place for the sub(which was midway(along the right long wall).
Sorry for the long rant,I had the JL's sold them and I had two more for movies which I sold also as the 1812 does that superbly.
The 1812 has a unbelievable quality in the bottom end and mid bass punch to die for.
I haven't heard anything like it whether 13's,15's18's or even W bins.It wasn't the size that caught my attention,it was the way she does music and it's sooo good.
LOL,the dealer even gave me a lifetime warranty on her(gotta love that).
post #8618 of 9546
Unfortunately with all product there must eventually be an end of life. The Digital Drive 1812 was introduced for our 20th anniversary to showcase what Velodyne could do, not necessarily to be a regular consumer product. Now as we prepare for our 30th anniversary, it was time for the 1812 to end its reign atop the Velodyne kingdom of subwoofers.
post #8619 of 9546
THX Rob,definitely not your run of the mill sub, that I can testify to.
Even though the 1812(at least to my ears)was(IS) the top dog of Velodynes subs,what replaces it in performance DD18+.
Haven't listened to the 15+ or 18+I had the dd-15's and no contest there.
Definitely a shame that such a superb sounding sub has been put to rest(not in my house).
Pretty hard or impossible to get that sound in a small box,course that's what consumers want high spl and small boxes so be it.eek.gif,.
post #8620 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by drummermitchell View Post

THX Rob,definitely not your run of the mill sub, that I can testify to.
Even though the 1812(at least to my ears)was(IS) the top dog of Velodynes subs,what replaces it in performance DD18+.
Haven't listened to the 15+ or 18+I had the dd-15's and no contest there.
Definitely a shame that such a superb sounding sub has been put to rest(not in my house).
Pretty hard or impossible to get that sound in a small box,course that's what consumers want high spl and small boxes so be it.eek.gif,.

The Digital Drive plus series has replaced the original Digital Drive series, playing deeper, louder, and more accurately than the comparable subs they replaced. While there is no direct replacement for the 1812, one could argue that a pair of the Digital Drive plus 15s are just as good if not better than the 1812 for less money.
post #8621 of 9546
Interesting,would be interesting to audition a couple of +'s(actually at my Velodyne dealer)next time I'm in Edmonton I'll see if he will demo a pair and put the 1812 in there also to compare(he has a few rooms).
Thanks again Rob.
post #8622 of 9546
Hello, My name is Michael and I am wanting to know which is positive and negative on the circuit board of the deco 8 subwoofer capacitor board. I pulled a couple capacitors off without marking negative or positive. One solder hole is square and one is round. All I ask is which is which please.? I thank you for your time. GOD bless
post #8623 of 9546
Hello, My name is Michael and I am wanting to know which is positive and negative on the circuit board of the deco 8 subwoofer capacitor board. I pulled a couple capacitors off without marking negative or positive. One solder hole is square and one is round. All I ask is which is which please.? I thank you for your time. GOD bless
post #8624 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguelcon74 View Post

Hello, My name is Michael and I am wanting to know which is positive and negative on the circuit board of the deco 8 subwoofer capacitor board. I pulled a couple capacitors off without marking negative or positive. One solder hole is square and one is round. All I ask is which is which please.? I thank you for your time. GOD bless
I would suggest contacting our Product Support team at 408-465-2851 (M-F between 7am-4:30pm). I am on the road at CEDIA and am unable to look up the information for you at this time.
post #8625 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

If the sub works, then $125 is likely a fair price. It would fit somewhere between the Impact series and the EQ-max series.

Thanks. I went ahead and picked it up and I must say, I'm really impressed. This 10" sub gets lower and louder than my MTX SW1212. It really fills my room with potent bass much better than the MTX. Now just to decide if I want to use it with my HT or with my 2.1 setup. I also just purchased a Simply Sound Rumba 12, so when that gets here I'll compare and decide where to put this DPS-10. This is my first Velodyne and I must say I'm impressed. I'm glad I didn't buy that Velodyne WiConnect 10 at costco for $200. It just seems like a lower end sub.
post #8626 of 9546
I currently have a Velodyne HGS-12, and absolutely love it. It's years old and working great still. I just moved into a new home and now have a dedicated theater room. I'm leaving the HGS-12 in my living room set up, but want to get the modern equivalent of the HGS-12. What's the current Velodyne equivalent? And what should I be looking at size wise for a room that is 12'5" x 17'11" with 10 foot ceilings. Thanks!
post #8627 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oven View Post

I currently have a Velodyne HGS-12, and absolutely love it. It's years old and working great still. I just moved into a new home and now have a dedicated theater room. I'm leaving the HGS-12 in my living room set up, but want to get the modern equivalent of the HGS-12. What's the current Velodyne equivalent? And what should I be looking at size wise for a room that is 12'5" x 17'11" with 10 foot ceilings. Thanks!
Maybe you can get a general idea by looking here: http://velodyne.com/subwoofers/shop-by-room-size/2154-2633.html
Edited by ninja12 - 9/10/12 at 7:12am
post #8628 of 9546
I just joined AVS specifically for the Velodyne support forum.

This last weekend, I helped a family friend move. During the move, he threw two Velodyne 15" subs in the pile of stuff to be thrown away. I asked about them and he said they did not work and that I could take them if I wanted them. One sub has a THX Ultra2 logo on the back and I think is a HSG 15 while the second is a DD 15. At first, I thought that one of the boxes may have a good driver in it, only to find out that someone had decided that they wanted the magnet and cut the frame up to yank the magnet off of the sub. So, essentially I have two plate amps, beat up boxes and no drivers. I know that the DD amp needs to have the six large capacitors replaced on the amp board, as it looks like someone hit the tops with a hammer. This amp may be a total gonner, but I figure that I could replace the caps cheaply enough to see if it is salvageable. The HSG 15 amp visually looks good other than the volume and crossover knobs have been busted off requiring a replacement of the pots.

However, even if I fix the plate amps, I do not have any drivers, so I would need to purchase one or two 15" (or 18") drivers, or bypass / replace the servo feedback mechanism to use the amps with a non-servo driver and live with the extra distortion. In my intended use, these will never be pushed near their max capabilities. If I can get one to work, it will be used to supplement a pair of 25 year old Klipsch LaScalla mains so I can remove the lowest frequency pushed to those to help extend their life. The LaScalla's are pushed with a simple Onkyo 100 watt receiver, and soon a new Denon 1912 home theater receiver. So, I am not looking to the ultimate low frequency subwoofer. Just a nice companion for the LaScalla's.

So, in the expert opinions, should I try fixing up these amps, or part them out to someone who needed individual components?

Thanks
post #8629 of 9546
Hey I have a Minivee 8" that looks like it blew a fuse. The fuse is labeled " F8AL 250V" is this just a normal Rat Shack 5x20 8amp 250v slow blow?

thanks,
john
post #8630 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZeigler View Post

I just joined AVS specifically for the Velodyne support forum.
This last weekend, I helped a family friend move. During the move, he threw two Velodyne 15" subs in the pile of stuff to be thrown away. I asked about them and he said they did not work and that I could take them if I wanted them. One sub has a THX Ultra2 logo on the back and I think is a HSG 15 while the second is a DD 15. At first, I thought that one of the boxes may have a good driver in it, only to find out that someone had decided that they wanted the magnet and cut the frame up to yank the magnet off of the sub. So, essentially I have two plate amps, beat up boxes and no drivers. I know that the DD amp needs to have the six large capacitors replaced on the amp board, as it looks like someone hit the tops with a hammer. This amp may be a total gonner, but I figure that I could replace the caps cheaply enough to see if it is salvageable. The HSG 15 amp visually looks good other than the volume and crossover knobs have been busted off requiring a replacement of the pots.
However, even if I fix the plate amps, I do not have any drivers, so I would need to purchase one or two 15" (or 18") drivers, or bypass / replace the servo feedback mechanism to use the amps with a non-servo driver and live with the extra distortion. In my intended use, these will never be pushed near their max capabilities. If I can get one to work, it will be used to supplement a pair of 25 year old Klipsch LaScalla mains so I can remove the lowest frequency pushed to those to help extend their life. The LaScalla's are pushed with a simple Onkyo 100 watt receiver, and soon a new Denon 1912 home theater receiver. So, I am not looking to the ultimate low frequency subwoofer. Just a nice companion for the LaScalla's.
So, in the expert opinions, should I try fixing up these amps, or part them out to someone who needed individual components?
Thanks

I'm no expert, so take this with a grain of salt. But seems if the amps are working you could probably replace the speaker. If they don't even turn on, I'm not sure they're worth salvaging. Personally, based on your description, I would probably junk them.
post #8631 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oven View Post


I'm no expert, so take this with a grain of salt. But seems if the amps are working you could probably replace the speaker. If they don't even turn on, I'm not sure they're worth salvaging. Personally, based on your description, I would probably junk them.

Yeah, that is what I am trying to figure out myself. Are they worth salvaging, or would I be better off just purchasing a basic plate amp and build my own DIY subwoofer. Thank you for your thoughts.

Anyway, if I do salvage the amps, anyone have an idea how much a replacement 15" driver would cost me? There is an older 15" sub I could pick up for around $500. Could I use the speaker from an older Velodyne sub and drive it with the Digital Drive? I like the idea of the room equalization functions built into the Digital Drive. While I would love to get a DD+ sub, I just cannot justify the cost especially when the wife's car is sitting dead in the garage waiting for money and my time to rebuild the engine.

I suppose the other option is to repair these amps, validate that they do work, then sell them and use those funds for a DIY sub.

Anyway, thanks in advance for your thoughts and expertise. - JZ
post #8632 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oven View Post

I currently have a Velodyne HGS-12, and absolutely love it. It's years old and working great still. I just moved into a new home and now have a dedicated theater room. I'm leaving the HGS-12 in my living room set up, but want to get the modern equivalent of the HGS-12. What's the current Velodyne equivalent? And what should I be looking at size wise for a room that is 12'5" x 17'11" with 10 foot ceilings. Thanks!
to match with your volume of space, the current servo controlled subwoofer would be the 10 inch DDplus
post #8633 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacallery View Post

Hey I have a Minivee 8" that looks like it blew a fuse. The fuse is labeled " F8AL 250V" is this just a normal Rat Shack 5x20 8amp 250v slow blow?
thanks,
john
The fuse is a Fast blo 8 amp 250V 5x20
post #8634 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZeigler View Post

Yeah, that is what I am trying to figure out myself. Are they worth salvaging, or would I be better off just purchasing a basic plate amp and build my own DIY subwoofer. Thank you for your thoughts.
Anyway, if I do salvage the amps, anyone have an idea how much a replacement 15" driver would cost me? There is an older 15" sub I could pick up for around $500. Could I use the speaker from an older Velodyne sub and drive it with the Digital Drive? I like the idea of the room equalization functions built into the Digital Drive. While I would love to get a DD+ sub, I just cannot justify the cost especially when the wife's car is sitting dead in the garage waiting for money and my time to rebuild the engine.
I suppose the other option is to repair these amps, validate that they do work, then sell them and use those funds for a DIY sub.
Anyway, thanks in advance for your thoughts and expertise. - JZ
Resurrecting subwoofers in this condition is not often practical. The reality is you have a beat up cabinet and need a replacement driver and amp assembly. The cost of purchasing these components is fairly high. Repairing the amplifiers would be difficult as the schematics are not available since the those amps are still used in current production pieces.

With regards to creating your own, my ability to advise is quite limited. When we assemble our subwoofers care is taken to match the drivers and amplifiers to work together. It is advised you are cautious and realize you operate at your own risk when creating a Frankenstein subwoofer from miscellaneous components. Any safety agency approvals the devices once carried are null and void once you start mixing components.
post #8635 of 9546
Hi Rob and all,

I am looking for a subwoofer to complement my stereo setup. I have an audiophile 3D Lab digital pre-amp, connected through a class D amplifier to two Cabasse closed boxes that go down to 60 Hz at -3 dB.

I would like to connect the RCA output from my pre-amp to a Velodyne DD 10 + subwoofer, but would not want to filter anything that goes to my closed boxes, thus leaving them connected as is to the XLR outputs of my preamp. That’s because I do not want any possible phase shift on the treble side for a better “3D” positioning of musical instruments. I would probably use Auto-EQ on the DD 10 +, which would possibly set up a cut-off frequency around 50 Hz.

The setup being explained, here is my question. I would like to have a loudness type preset matching the Flechter and Munson gap between lets say the 70dB and the 60dB curves for low volume listening. This means slowly increasing the bass volume starting from 200 Hz down to as low as possible (at 100 Hz we would be talking about +4 dB and at 50 Hz +7 dB).

Would this be at all possible with my intended setup or will there never be any sound played by the subwoofer higher than the 50 Hz cut off frequency regardless of the contour filter preset settings?

Any idea on how to do it, keeping in mind that I absolutely want to keep the “audiophile” preset (flat curve and unfiltered trebles)?
post #8636 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

Resurrecting subwoofers in this condition is not often practical. The reality is you have a beat up cabinet and need a replacement driver and amp assembly. The cost of purchasing these components is fairly high. Repairing the amplifiers would be difficult as the schematics are not available since the those amps are still used in current production pieces.

With regards to creating your own, my ability to advise is quite limited. When we assemble our subwoofers care is taken to match the drivers and amplifiers to work together. It is advised you are cautious and realize you operate at your own risk when creating a Frankenstein subwoofer from miscellaneous components. Any safety agency approvals the devices once carried are null and void once you start mixing components.

Thank you very much Rob for your response. Regarding electronics repair, this is what I did in the military, and as a hobby off and on for 30 years or so. I have gone as far as reconstructing or duplicating snapped circuit boards. So, replacing the bad capacitors, testing the power supply section is fairly straight forward. However, both of these amps use what appears to be an accelerometer glued to the speaker cone to provide the feedback to the preamp stage of the plate amp, or on the Digital Drive plate amp, there is a more advanced controller board with an onboard computer on it. This is the part of the amplifier which I imagine is your trade secret. The actual amplifier module on these plate amps appears to be a fairly straightforward amplifier. However, I was somewhat surprised to see that both of these amps rectify AC line current straight from the input plug with no power supply transformer... safety is definitely an item to keep an eye on here. With this in mind, I can see how you would make a recommendation to stay wall away from the amplifier module. I was also surprised to see that you are only using six 1000uf capacitors to filter the power supply for a 1250 watt rms output stage. Although at the ~170 VDC used by the module, your amp would only be pulling about 7-8 amps, but that still results in quite a bit of power supply ripple. Perhaps this is possible due to the Class D amp. All my experience has been with older style Class A or B amps years ago.

Anyway, on the Digital Drive plate amp, there are two jumper blocks, neither one is labeled that I could see. On the left is a block with five or six jumper positions and no jumpers in place. On the right side, there is one with two jumpers positions and a jumper on the right pair. Are these used as a proprietary connector to program the controller module at the factory to match the driver installed in the box, or are they there to set additional options ... Perhaps there is an option to disable the accelerometer feedback. I believe that I have the accelerometers for each plate amp, but would prefer to just disable or bypass the accelerometer function for testing the amps prior to investing in a replacement driver, even though I considered gluing one to a standard 15" driver, but doubt that would work well since the dampening and excursion would not match the intended driver at all.

I do realize that these plate amps are probably not worth the time to fix up. I may just toss them out and build a DIY sub following a proven plan. But on the other hand, I may see if I can fix them up just for the challenge to see if I can do it. I may even scope the 10 or so pins going between the pre-amp or controller boards and the amplifier module and just build a new pre-amp section to drive the amplifier module, just to see if it can be done.

As far as building a franken-sub. I suppose you could call it that. I prefer to call it a learning experience whether the plate amps are repairable or not.

P.S. I know it may be a long shot. But could you provide part numbers and a ball park figure for how much the 15" drivers to match these two plate amps would cost? That would help me decide if I want to resurrect or just experiment with these plate amps.

Thank you very much - JZ
post #8637 of 9546
Hi AVS,

I recently bought a Velodyne Impact 10 and thought I could hook it up to my Pioneer SC-05.

Unfortunately I have yet to be able to get any output from the speaker after hooking it up to my receiver. I'm using a single RCA cable from the 'Subwoofer' output of the SC-05 and plugging it into the LFE input of the sub. (I've also tried using a RCA splitter to input into both line level inputs).

The auto-on light is green on the sub.

I've checked the following on the receiver (these are all suggested by the SC-05's troubleshooting guide):
1) the LFE indicator is on in the display panel
2) in the Speaker Settings, my front/center/surround speaker are set to SMALL and the SW setting is set to LARGE
3) I'm not attenuating the LFE/SW signal in Audio Parameters
4) crossover to 80hz

On the sub I've set the crossover to 200hz and I've jiggered with the phase switch.

Is there anything else I could check, or is it likely that my sub is defective?

Thanks in advance,
Jeff
post #8638 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZeigler View Post

Thank you very much Rob for your response. Regarding electronics repair, this is what I did in the military, and as a hobby off and on for 30 years or so. I have gone as far as reconstructing or duplicating snapped circuit boards. So, replacing the bad capacitors, testing the power supply section is fairly straight forward. However, both of these amps use what appears to be an accelerometer glued to the speaker cone to provide the feedback to the preamp stage of the plate amp, or on the Digital Drive plate amp, there is a more advanced controller board with an onboard computer on it. This is the part of the amplifier which I imagine is your trade secret. The actual amplifier module on these plate amps appears to be a fairly straightforward amplifier. However, I was somewhat surprised to see that both of these amps rectify AC line current straight from the input plug with no power supply transformer... safety is definitely an item to keep an eye on here. With this in mind, I can see how you would make a recommendation to stay wall away from the amplifier module. I was also surprised to see that you are only using six 1000uf capacitors to filter the power supply for a 1250 watt rms output stage. Although at the ~170 VDC used by the module, your amp would only be pulling about 7-8 amps, but that still results in quite a bit of power supply ripple. Perhaps this is possible due to the Class D amp. All my experience has been with older style Class A or B amps years ago.
Anyway, on the Digital Drive plate amp, there are two jumper blocks, neither one is labeled that I could see. On the left is a block with five or six jumper positions and no jumpers in place. On the right side, there is one with two jumpers positions and a jumper on the right pair. Are these used as a proprietary connector to program the controller module at the factory to match the driver installed in the box, or are they there to set additional options ... Perhaps there is an option to disable the accelerometer feedback. I believe that I have the accelerometers for each plate amp, but would prefer to just disable or bypass the accelerometer function for testing the amps prior to investing in a replacement driver, even though I considered gluing one to a standard 15" driver, but doubt that would work well since the dampening and excursion would not match the intended driver at all.
I do realize that these plate amps are probably not worth the time to fix up. I may just toss them out and build a DIY sub following a proven plan. But on the other hand, I may see if I can fix them up just for the challenge to see if I can do it. I may even scope the 10 or so pins going between the pre-amp or controller boards and the amplifier module and just build a new pre-amp section to drive the amplifier module, just to see if it can be done.
As far as building a franken-sub. I suppose you could call it that. I prefer to call it a learning experience whether the plate amps are repairable or not.
P.S. I know it may be a long shot. But could you provide part numbers and a ball park figure for how much the 15" drivers to match these two plate amps would cost? That would help me decide if I want to resurrect or just experiment with these plate amps.
Thank you very much - JZ

I will send you a PM
post #8639 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyr35 View Post

Hi Rob and all,
I am looking for a subwoofer to complement my stereo setup. I have an audiophile 3D Lab digital pre-amp, connected through a class D amplifier to two Cabasse closed boxes that go down to 60 Hz at -3 dB.
I would like to connect the RCA output from my pre-amp to a Velodyne DD 10 + subwoofer, but would not want to filter anything that goes to my closed boxes, thus leaving them connected as is to the XLR outputs of my preamp. That’s because I do not want any possible phase shift on the treble side for a better “3D” positioning of musical instruments. I would probably use Auto-EQ on the DD 10 +, which would possibly set up a cut-off frequency around 50 Hz.
The setup being explained, here is my question. I would like to have a loudness type preset matching the Flechter and Munson gap between lets say the 70dB and the 60dB curves for low volume listening. This means slowly increasing the bass volume starting from 200 Hz down to as low as possible (at 100 Hz we would be talking about +4 dB and at 50 Hz +7 dB).
Would this be at all possible with my intended setup or will there never be any sound played by the subwoofer higher than the 50 Hz cut off frequency regardless of the contour filter preset settings?
Any idea on how to do it, keeping in mind that I absolutely want to keep the “audiophile” preset (flat curve and unfiltered trebles)?

First - If you would like to use balanced connectors for both the sub and the amp you can do so by connecting the balanced outputs of the pre-amp to the DD+, then connect the "Thruput" jacks to the power amp. The "Thruput" jacks are unfiltered full range outputs, what ever goes in, goes out.

While the Auto EQ+ feature will set a cross over point, that can be over ridden manually. If your speakers go down to 60Hz, I would expect the subwoofers crossover to be in the 100-120Hz range assuming a 12db/octave slope. Remember that crossover points are not cut off points, it is simply to point where we begin to transition from the speakers to the subwoofer. This is done across several frequencies in order to create a blended sound. For this reason you want your crossover point set higher than your main speakers low point, how high depends upon the slope. A 12dB/octave slope is pretty standard, for this slope I like to set my crossover approximately 1 octave above the low point of my speakers, then adjust by ear.

The Digital Drive series will allow you to the option to either set one master EQ curve with pre-sets based around a single contour frequency, or you can set separate EQ curves for each input. You could use the parametric equalizer to create a curve that looked similar to the Fletcher-Munson curves if that is what you want.. Keep in mind though the subwoofer's equalizer will only effect those sounds reproduced by the subwoofer. You would need to look at some outboard system equalizer if you want to set up such a curve for the full frequency range.
post #8640 of 9546
Quote:
Originally Posted by skrooby View Post

Hi AVS,
I recently bought a Velodyne Impact 10 and thought I could hook it up to my Pioneer SC-05.
Unfortunately I have yet to be able to get any output from the speaker after hooking it up to my receiver. I'm using a single RCA cable from the 'Subwoofer' output of the SC-05 and plugging it into the LFE input of the sub. (I've also tried using a RCA splitter to input into both line level inputs).
The auto-on light is green on the sub.
I've checked the following on the receiver (these are all suggested by the SC-05's troubleshooting guide):
1) the LFE indicator is on in the display panel
2) in the Speaker Settings, my front/center/surround speaker are set to SMALL and the SW setting is set to LARGE
3) I'm not attenuating the LFE/SW signal in Audio Parameters
4) crossover to 80hz
On the sub I've set the crossover to 200hz and I've jiggered with the phase switch.
Is there anything else I could check, or is it likely that my sub is defective?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff


To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
If the subwoofer is working you will hear the bass portion of the music, this means the problem is elsewhere in your system. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.
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