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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 289

post #8641 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

First - If you would like to use balanced connectors for both the sub and the amp you can do so by connecting the balanced outputs of the pre-amp to the DD+, then connect the "Thruput" jacks to the power amp. The "Thruput" jacks are unfiltered full range outputs, what ever goes in, goes out.
OK Thanks Rob, I was not aware of that nice option.
Quote:
While the Auto EQ+ feature will set a cross over point, that can be over ridden manually. If your speakers go down to 60Hz, I would expect the subwoofers crossover to be in the 100-120Hz range assuming a 12db/octave slope. Remember that crossover points are not cut off points, it is simply to point where we begin to transition from the speakers to the subwoofer. This is done across several frequencies in order to create a blended sound. For this reason you want your crossover point set higher than your main speakers low point, how high depends upon the slope. A 12dB/octave slope is pretty standard, for this slope I like to set my crossover approximately 1 octave above the low point of my speakers, then adjust by ear.
So that means an optimal cross over point around 120 Hz.
Quote:
The Digital Drive series will allow you to the option to either set one master EQ curve with pre-sets based around a single contour frequency, or you can set separate EQ curves for each input. You could use the parametric equalizer to create a curve that looked similar to the Fletcher-Munson curves if that is what you want.. Keep in mind though the subwoofer's equalizer will only effect those sounds reproduced by the subwoofer. You would need to look at some outboard system equalizer if you want to set up such a curve for the full frequency range.
I do not want to match a specific Fletcher and Munson curve, but the difference between lets say the 70 dB and the 60 dB curve. This would be equivalent to listening at 10 dB below recording level (and this means upping frequencies below 200 Hz only).

Do you mean to say that for each preset, I can have specific cross over points and parametric settings?

In that case presets could be:
- Audiophile with cross over point at 120 Hz with parametric settings for as flat a curve as possible,
- Loudness with cross over point at 200 Hz with parametric settings to match a Fletcher and Munson "difference" curve.

Do you confirm that possibility?
Edited by zephyr35 - 9/14/12 at 10:55am
post #8642 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyr35 View Post

OK Thanks Rob, I was not aware of that nice option.
So that means an optimal cross over point around 120 Hz.
Does this mean that for each preset, I can have specific cross over points and parametric settings?
In that case presets could be:
- Audiophile with cross over point at 120 Hz with parametric settings for as flat a curve as possible,
- Loudness with cross over point at 200 Hz with parametric settings to match Fletcher and Munson curves.
Do you confirm that possibility?

Yes you can customize each of the six presets with a different crossover if you like.
Yes Each can have its own equalization curve.
post #8643 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

Yes you can customize each of the six presets with a different crossover if you like.
Yes Each can have its own equalization curve.

Thanks Rob, you've just sold a DD 10+ !

And by the way, this is unclear in the documentation...
post #8644 of 9545
Hey there,

I'm writing from France, and I hope you're all well on your side of the Atlantic ;-)

I have a terrible issue with my beloved CHT-12Q. All of a sudden (I just added a fresh pair of back surround speakers, instead of my small one for 6.1... but what I'm just about to tell you coincides with that event) my subwoofer experiences a loss of performance... In simple terms: on some frequencies, and in some rare occasions, the woofer gets wild for half a second (produces noise), “pops”, “clicks” a little bit, and the sub powers down, then gets back on (or doesn’t). The day before it started, I never experienced that kind of event. It all came all of a sudden.

I figured out that it may be related to some kind of electronic issues/glitches. I ran a reset procedure, did everything I could, but to no avail...

On normal circumstances, and more regular films, everything runs like a charm and I can see/hear absolutely no difference, but on some pinpoint sequences such as, say "Thor" or the latest THX logo ("Amazing life"), which turns out to be really bass driven, what used to be perfectly ok, even at quite loud volume, now produces a "pop" and seems to wrinkle the woofer itself... What a tragedy. I guess some frequencies have a real difficulty to go through the sub... .

Here's my setup:
. Denon AVR 2808 (speakers on Large, LFE+MAIN, gain: +5.5 dB on a scale from -12 to +12 dB)
. JM LAB/FOCAL speakers (Cobalt series, all set to large)
. CHT 12-Q: Volume 35 to 44 (old set up)
. Antimode 8033C (bass equalization)
. Panasonic Blu-Ray Player

I figured out I had to reduce both the gains on receiver and subwoofer. But I lost a tremendous amount of in-room low-frequency. SO I finally decoded to reduce the volume on the sub of 1/8.

Is it totally dying ? Dead already? Is it related to the sw amplifier ? Any low-cost solution? a DIY workaround ? Overheating? For what reason? I own the unit since December 2009. And of course, I’m out of my (French) warranty… .

Thanks SO much for any help.
Best regards from France.
post #8645 of 9545
Hello, i"m writing on a reoccuring problem with sms-1 .Couple of years ago i bought the sms1, it exhibited a strange noise like boiling water and it was replaced with a newer one with with the newer firmware. Ok till now , a couple of months that exhibits the same noise or even worse.The only preset that is quiet is no1.All others are full - well not full but enough noise that is audible in a distance of 3,5 meters from my subs.I know i can"t copy no 6 preset that i"m using in no1 that is quieter. What can i do with it? f.w version is 2.1.4 if i recall right and the unit is fed with xlr cable from denon avp a1hd.
post #8646 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornwall View Post

Hey there,
I'm writing from France, and I hope you're all well on your side of the Atlantic ;-)
I have a terrible issue with my beloved CHT-12Q. All of a sudden (I just added a fresh pair of back surround speakers, instead of my small one for 6.1... but what I'm just about to tell you coincides with that event) my subwoofer experiences a loss of performance... In simple terms: on some frequencies, and in some rare occasions, the woofer gets wild for half a second (produces noise), “pops”, “clicks” a little bit, and the sub powers down, then gets back on (or doesn’t). The day before it started, I never experienced that kind of event. It all came all of a sudden.
I figured out that it may be related to some kind of electronic issues/glitches. I ran a reset procedure, did everything I could, but to no avail...
On normal circumstances, and more regular films, everything runs like a charm and I can see/hear absolutely no difference, but on some pinpoint sequences such as, say "Thor" or the latest THX logo ("Amazing life"), which turns out to be really bass driven, what used to be perfectly ok, even at quite loud volume, now produces a "pop" and seems to wrinkle the woofer itself... What a tragedy. I guess some frequencies have a real difficulty to go through the sub... .
Here's my setup:
. Denon AVR 2808 (speakers on Large, LFE+MAIN, gain: +5.5 dB on a scale from -12 to +12 dB)
. JM LAB/FOCAL speakers (Cobalt series, all set to large)
. CHT 12-Q: Volume 35 to 44 (old set up)
. Antimode 8033C (bass equalization)
. Panasonic Blu-Ray Player
I figured out I had to reduce both the gains on receiver and subwoofer. But I lost a tremendous amount of in-room low-frequency. SO I finally decoded to reduce the volume on the sub of 1/8.
Is it totally dying ? Dead already? Is it related to the sw amplifier ? Any low-cost solution? a DIY workaround ? Overheating? For what reason? I own the unit since December 2009. And of course, I’m out of my (French) warranty… .
Thanks SO much for any help.
Best regards from France.

99% of the time when we see this issue, someone has the subwoofer volume turned up beyond 60 and their LFE setting is low. This issue manifests when a tremendous bass load occurs and the amplifier is already working hard, this causes the sound to cut out for a moment (like clipping the signal) and it sounds like a pop as the driver stops and starts suddenly. Now your posted settings puts you in the 1% range that makes it a bit more tricky to solve. First would try splitting the LFE signal with a y-splitter to feed both the left and the right inputs on the subwoofer, then turn down the LFE gain to no more than +3dB to see if there is any improvement. How big is the room (hxwxd)?
post #8647 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by jomark911 View Post

Hello, i"m writing on a reoccuring problem with sms-1 .Couple of years ago i bought the sms1, it exhibited a strange noise like boiling water and it was replaced with a newer one with with the newer firmware. Ok till now , a couple of months that exhibits the same noise or even worse.The only preset that is quiet is no1.All others are full - well not full but enough noise that is audible in a distance of 3,5 meters from my subs.I know i can"t copy no 6 preset that i"m using in no1 that is quieter. What can i do with it? f.w version is 2.1.4 if i recall right and the unit is fed with xlr cable from denon avp a1hd.
Despite having received a couple complaints of this issue, and our receiving the units in, we have to date never been able to duplicate this complaint in our facility. We believe it is a combination of settings and equipment that causes this to present itself. The first thing to try is restoring the factory defaults, and without making any adjustments see if the noise is still present. To restore the defaults press 8-9-0.
post #8648 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMG View Post

I have 2 Velodyne SPL1200R and the blue led has failed on one of them, every thing else seems normal, sound from the driver, auto EQ, and volume adjust.
Does anyone know can the led be replaced?
Is this something that can be done by me or is a trip to a service center required?
Thanks
Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The blue LED on the SPL-R series can be replaced, but really should be sent in. It is not easy to get the LED out and extreme care must be taken when re-installing the LED as you must have an airtight cabinet when done. Any air leak and you will have unwanted noises during playback. I assume you have already tried the pressing the light button on the remote control to ensure it was not just turned off by mistake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMG View Post

Hi Rob,
Yes I have tried the light button on the remote, I will check the service center listed on the Velodyne web site and see if they will do this work. I don`t think I want to send it back to the U.S., shipping cost would be probably be expensive and the hassle of border crossing issues are just not worth it.
I could just live with it because the sub seems to be functioning normally otherwise but unfortunately I am the kind of person who likes things to be working 100%.
Is the LED available for purchase for me to try the repair myself first?
Thanks for the reply.
Jeff
Hi Rob,
The quotes are to help refresh your memory, it has been a while and I am still waiting for a response to my question. Am I able to order the LED from Velodyne and try to replace it myself ?
Thank you
Jeff
Edited by JMG - 9/24/12 at 10:54pm
post #8649 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMG View Post

Hi Rob,
The quotes are to help refresh your memory, it has been a while and I am still waiting for a response to my question. Am I able to order the LED from Velodyne and try to replace it myself ?
Thank you
Jeff
I will need to check on the availability and pricing, but it should be.
post #8650 of 9545
Hi Rob,
I have sent you a PM
Thanks
Jeff
Edited by JMG - 9/25/12 at 4:48pm
post #8651 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

99% of the time when we see this issue, someone has the subwoofer volume turned up beyond 60 and their LFE setting is low. This issue manifests when a tremendous bass load occurs and the amplifier is already working hard, this causes the sound to cut out for a moment (like clipping the signal) and it sounds like a pop as the driver stops and starts suddenly. Now your posted settings puts you in the 1% range that makes it a bit more tricky to solve. First would try splitting the LFE signal with a y-splitter to feed both the left and the right inputs on the subwoofer, then turn down the LFE gain to no more than +3dB to see if there is any improvement. How big is the room (hxwxd)?

Thanks so much for this insightrful comment. I did what you suggested, and indeed, everything behaves better. Now, 98% of the time, I don't get this "thump", and enormous bass load. On some rare occasions, it does kick in though...
The only thing I don't get is why is tis all happening now ? Before, for two years, I didn't experience any of these issues, and the sub was at +6.5 on the AVR and volume at 44. Now, at +3.5dB and volume at 32-33 on the sub, I get a better, smoother, and more natural bass response, but even this huge loss of volume and in-room presence of the sub, due to the fact that I lowered everything, still produces some issues...

It all came out all of a sudden... Should I still get worried ?

Regards from Europe.
post #8652 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornwall View Post

Thanks so much for this insightrful comment. I did what you suggested, and indeed, everything behaves better. Now, 98% of the time, I don't get this "thump", and enormous bass load. On some rare occasions, it does kick in though...
The only thing I don't get is why is tis all happening now ? Before, for two years, I didn't experience any of these issues, and the sub was at +6.5 on the AVR and volume at 44. Now, at +3.5dB and volume at 32-33 on the sub, I get a better, smoother, and more natural bass response, but even this huge loss of volume and in-room presence of the sub, due to the fact that I lowered everything, still produces some issues...
It all came out all of a sudden... Should I still get worried ?
Regards from Europe.

If I were to speculate, I would guess most of the time you notice this you are watching a BluRay movie. The bass tracks on many action BluRay movies seem to be mixed hotter and hotter, near the point of over-modulating or clipping. Many newer DVDs also have been exhibiting this, but it is more pronounced on BluRay. At least that is my observation. I do not believe it is anything to worry about with the subwoofer.
post #8653 of 9545
hello,
i recently acquired a Velodyne F-1500 that seems to be mostly working well, with one exception. after about 4 minutes from powering up, the volume jumps up substantially and stays that way.
this one has the infrared eye for a remote but did not come with a remote. i am having trouble finding documentation on exactly what the functions of the remote are.
while i realize that this sub is no longer supported by Velodyne, i am hoping a current or former owner can fill me in about the remote.

- does the remote control volume (as well as going from stand-by to on)?

if it does not control volume, i can probably eliminate the remote portions of the circuitry as a source of the volume jump.
btw - i have thoroughly cleaned the volume and crossover freq pots.

thanks for any knowledge!
post #8654 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by dittomusik View Post

hello,
i recently acquired a Velodyne F-1500 that seems to be mostly working well, with one exception. after about 4 minutes from powering up, the volume jumps up substantially and stays that way.
this one has the infrared eye for a remote but did not come with a remote. i am having trouble finding documentation on exactly what the functions of the remote are.
while i realize that this sub is no longer supported by Velodyne, i am hoping a current or former owner can fill me in about the remote.
- does the remote control volume (as well as going from stand-by to on)?
if it does not control volume, i can probably eliminate the remote portions of the circuitry as a source of the volume jump.
btw - i have thoroughly cleaned the volume and crossover freq pots.
thanks for any knowledge!
The remote for this unit controls the Volume up and down as well as the standby function. Does the volume jump occur after a consistent amount of time, or after some triggering event?
post #8655 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The remote for this unit controls the Volume up and down as well as the standby function. Does the volume jump occur after a consistent amount of time, or after some triggering event?

thanks Rob,
no triggering event that i'm aware of. so far i have timed it 3 different times, each time the sub had been off for hours and the timings were on different days. i was not terribly precise in the timing, but it seems to be right around 4min 20-30 sec.
post #8656 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by dittomusik View Post

thanks Rob,
no triggering event that i'm aware of. so far i have timed it 3 different times, each time the sub had been off for hours and the timings were on different days. i was not terribly precise in the timing, but it seems to be right around 4min 20-30 sec.
When the unit ramps up, can you try muting your source then examining the subwoofer's cone. Does it continue to vibrate, breath in and out, or otherwise seem unstable?
post #8657 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

When the unit ramps up, can you try muting your source then examining the subwoofer's cone. Does it continue to vibrate, breath in and out, or otherwise seem unstable?

today i turned the sub on with nothing plugged into the line inputs and it took about 6.5 min for it to "ramp up" (i guess it happens more quickly when the amp is working). before it ramped up, the only thing audible was the airy hiss that all amps make. at the ramp up point, there were a few mild popping noises (accompanied by some cone movement) then a steady noise that almost sounded like 60Hz hum mixed with some other mid-frequency components. during this steady noise, the cone does not breathe, pump, visibly move or seem unstable.
i have heard this steady noise previously when i listened after it ramped up. i muted the source and turned the sub volume from all the way down to all the way up - which does not affect the steady noise. sometimes in previous days, there would more of the mild popping noises from time to time, but they did not move the cone much.
post #8658 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by dittomusik View Post

today i turned the sub on with nothing plugged into the line inputs and it took about 6.5 min for it to "ramp up" (i guess it happens more quickly when the amp is working). before it ramped up, the only thing audible was the airy hiss that all amps make. at the ramp up point, there were a few mild popping noises (accompanied by some cone movement) then a steady noise that almost sounded like 60Hz hum mixed with some other mid-frequency components. during this steady noise, the cone does not breathe, pump, visibly move or seem unstable.
i have heard this steady noise previously when i listened after it ramped up. i muted the source and turned the sub volume from all the way down to all the way up - which does not affect the steady noise. sometimes in previous days, there would more of the mild popping noises from time to time, but they did not move the cone much.
If that is the case then I would recommend taking the subwoofer to a local stereo repair shop. There is a good chance the issue is in the electronics pack. We can provide them with schematics if they need them.
post #8659 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

If that is the case then I would recommend taking the subwoofer to a local stereo repair shop. There is a good chance the issue is in the electronics pack. We can provide them with schematics if they need them.
cool. i think i will take it to my local shop (i have already discussed it briefly with him and he thought 'maybe capacitor related').
i did already get the schematics via email from Jeff Davis at Velodyne.

thanks very much for your time and ideas!
i'll post update here when there is more news about this sub.
post #8660 of 9545
Is the motor board in the DD18 different to the DD15?

I've sent my DD18 to the local authorised Velodyne repairer due to a board failure. The first time it came back (supposedly with a new board) it had firmware 2.2.4 onboard and would not map presets on the remote correctly:

If I press preset button 1, preset 5 is selected.
If I press preset button 2, preset 1 is selected.
If I press preset button 3, preset 2 is selected.
If I press preset button 4, preset 3 is selected.
If I press preset button 5, preset 4 is selected.
If I press preset button 6, preset 6 is selected.

So, it went back for rectification.

It was redelivered today and the presets work but the main display screen shows firmware 2.2.2 and recognises the unit as a DD15.

It's getting a little beyond a joke with this repairer.

Hence, is the motor board the same? I'm hoping they have just misconfigured it rather than stuffed it up with the wrong board.
post #8661 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by laager View Post

Is the motor board in the DD18 different to the DD15?
I've sent my DD18 to the local authorised Velodyne repairer due to a board failure. The first time it came back (supposedly with a new board) it had firmware 2.2.4 onboard and would not map presets on the remote correctly:
If I press preset button 1, preset 5 is selected.
If I press preset button 2, preset 1 is selected.
If I press preset button 3, preset 2 is selected.
If I press preset button 4, preset 3 is selected.
If I press preset button 5, preset 4 is selected.
If I press preset button 6, preset 6 is selected.
So, it went back for rectification.
It was redelivered today and the presets work but the main display screen shows firmware 2.2.2 and recognises the unit as a DD15.
It's getting a little beyond a joke with this repairer.
Hence, is the motor board the same? I'm hoping they have just misconfigured it rather than stuffed it up with the wrong board.

The DD18 and DD15 do have the same board, they are just calibrated slightly different for the driver throw. Using an amplifier configured for the DD15 would limit maximum excursion. I am baffled as to how this happens as the calibration files are written to the amplifier based off the serial number. This is supposed to prevent you from receiving and amplifier not properly calibrated. I would like to resolve this issue correctly. I will send you a PM with some information I need so we can get you a correct amplifier without any additional down time.
post #8662 of 9545
Hi AVS / Velodyne Support,

Desperately look for help ! I am writing from HK !

My DD-12 start giving out GREAT popping sound, and the cone is pumping in and out vigorously when I powered on the subwoofer, it happens even when I have removed the subwoofer cable......please advice what's wrong with it ?

I did try making a phone call to the Ex-dealer(Radar said they are no longer the dealer of Velodyne anymore, and I can't find which company will take-up the dealership of Velodyne here ??) in my country, they just said they don't have the parts for DD-12, and they might not be able to get it for me...what can I do ????

Looking forward for your favourable reply !

Ming Sir
Edited by Ming Sir - 10/16/12 at 11:44am
post #8663 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ming Sir View Post

Hi AVS / Velodyne Support,
Desperately look for help ! I am writing from HK !
My DD-12 start giving out GREAT popping sound, and the cone is pumping in and out vigorously when I powered on the subwoofer, it happens even when I have removed the subwoofer cable......please advice what's wrong with it ?
I did try making a phone call to the Ex-dealer(Radar said they are no longer the dealer of Velodyne anymore, and I can't find which company will take-up the dealership of Velodyne here ??) in my country, they just said they don't have the parts for DD-12, and they might not be able to get it for me...what can I do ????
Looking forward for your favourable reply !
Ming Sir

Ming, happy HK!

I'm curious to know why you would even bother with Velodyne when you literally live in the subwoofer heaven that is Hong Kong!!!!

Sorry I can't help you out on your situation. Maybe it is a voltage issue? 220v vs 110v? Maybe?
post #8664 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Ming, happy HK!
I'm curious to know why you would even bother with Velodyne when you literally live in the subwoofer heaven that is Hong Kong!!!!
Sorry I can't help you out on your situation. Maybe it is a voltage issue? 220v vs 110v? Maybe?

Thanks for your advice, I don't think it's a matter of the voltage issue, the DD-12 works fine before the explosive popping sound comes up !

Whether Hk is a subwoofer heaven or not, I am not quite sure, but you can really find a lot of famous brand like MK, or Ken & Kriesel, JL Audio, SVS, Sunfire....in HK, however I still love Velodyne cos it can deliver Great sound in compact size, you know the living environment in HK is definitely not spacious, instead , is quite crowed and small !
post #8665 of 9545
I'd like to point out that after a small snafu at Velodyne with a repair bill I had, Rob replied almost immediately to my email and got things moving in the right direction. My repair was handled very well up front (the repair was no fault of the amp...it was something I did), and after the billing error, was again handled very well on the back end. This is the second time I've dealt with Velo's customer service and have not been disappointed.
post #8666 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ming Sir View Post

Hi AVS / Velodyne Support,
Desperately look for help ! I am writing from HK !
My DD-12 start giving out GREAT popping sound, and the cone is pumping in and out vigorously when I powered on the subwoofer, it happens even when I have removed the subwoofer cable......please advice what's wrong with it ?
I did try making a phone call to the Ex-dealer(Radar said they are no longer the dealer of Velodyne anymore, and I can't find which company will take-up the dealership of Velodyne here ??) in my country, they just said they don't have the parts for DD-12, and they might not be able to get it for me...what can I do ????
Looking forward for your favourable reply !
Ming Sir

Any advice for my case ? Thx in advance !!
post #8667 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ming Sir View Post

Any advice for my case ? Thx in advance !!
Have you emailed Velodyne yet?

service@velodyne.com
post #8668 of 9545
Sb1,

Thanks so much for your remind, cheers !

I do expect the experts from the Velodyne Support will answer me here, if I still can't have their advice/diagnosis in coming days, I will send a e-mail to them !
post #8669 of 9545
Hi! smile.gif

I need to replace a Velodyne sub: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1434195/need-to-replace-old-velodyne-sub-recommendations

Just curious, briefly, what are the main differences are between the Optimum, DD, and DD Plus lines?

The DD Line is no longer available new. And the Velodyne Optimum line appears to have been out for a while. Is it due to be replaced soon?

TIA. smile.gif
post #8670 of 9545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ming Sir View Post

Hi AVS / Velodyne Support,
Desperately look for help ! I am writing from HK !
My DD-12 start giving out GREAT popping sound, and the cone is pumping in and out vigorously when I powered on the subwoofer, it happens even when I have removed the subwoofer cable......please advice what's wrong with it ?
I did try making a phone call to the Ex-dealer(Radar said they are no longer the dealer of Velodyne anymore, and I can't find which company will take-up the dealership of Velodyne here ??) in my country, they just said they don't have the parts for DD-12, and they might not be able to get it for me...what can I do ????
Looking forward for your favourable reply !
Ming Sir

Ming - I am sorry for the delay in response, I am trying to track down a solution for you. We do not have a replacement distributor in HK yet. I hope to have a solution for you on Monday or Tuesday at the latest.
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