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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 291

post #8701 of 9087
11/19/12 at 10:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Understood. However, if one wants the SMS-1 DSP capabilities built into an all in one package, is the only option your Digital Drive subs? Or is there something along the lines of a "plate" version of the SMS-1 that can be purchased and used in conjunction with other XYZ plate amps?
There is no plate version, the SMS-1 exists only as a stand alone external device. You can still use it with any plate amp by connecting the LFE output of the SMS-1 to that amplifier with RCA inputs. The SMS-1 would just be in your component rack instead of in the subwoofer cabinet.
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post #8702 of 9087
11/19/12 at 1:03pm
Rob, what is the retail price on the Velodyne DD10+? I've gotten some different answers from a couple dealers.

Thx.
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post #8703 of 9087
11/19/12 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewTT View Post

Rob, what is the retail price on the Velodyne DD10+? I've gotten some different answers from a couple dealers.
Thx.
Velodyne does establish a retail price on our subwoofers and headphones; the only control is a minimum advertised price. Dealers may sell the subwoofer for what ever price they like, but are not allowed to advertise the subwoofer for less than that agreed upon amount.
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post #8704 of 9087
11/22/12 at 7:10pm
Hello Rob,
1. My velodyne hgs 15 was broken (amplifier and wooden case is good, woofer break down), I can't find driver available in local dealer in Vietnam. Can you tell me where sell 15' woofer in the usa? (i live in Vietnam, my friend can ship it for me), price?.....I can replace it by myself or Minh Sang Vinh (Velodyne dealer in VN)
2. Can i used woofer in DD for HGS?
3. How Impedance Velodyne woofer? amplifier in HGS is 1250w (max=3000w) in Impedance?
Thanks.
Edited by khactuyen - 11/23/12 at 9:05am
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post #8705 of 9087
11/22/12 at 8:23pm
Hi Rob! I need a replacement for the back-plate electronics (just complete back-plate assembly) in EQ-Max8 sub and I live in Estonia, is there chance to get it?
I can replace it by myself, but I can't find any parts available in local or online stores.

Edit:
I have localized the problem, it's faulty EQ board with green label in the middle "DEQ 8-12", no need to replace all just this board, so can I buy a new one somewhere?

Thanks.
Edited by w0wka - 11/23/12 at 10:22am
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post #8706 of 9087
11/24/12 at 8:06am
SPL 1200 Ultra - wil not auto eq any more

The unit is 12 months old and was working great till now. I changed the placement and wanted to redo the eq. I have REW v5 and I can take measurement of the response, and nothing changes after I do an auto eq

I tried resetting to factory resets by pressing P1, P2, P3, P4, P4, P3, P2, P1 which results in the volume going back to [30] but the EQ curve does not change at all.

I have tried powering on and powering off, but still the unit does not want to Auto EQ

What should I try next ?
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post #8707 of 9087
11/26/12 at 10:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by w0wka View Post

Hi Rob! I need a replacement for the back-plate electronics (just complete back-plate assembly) in EQ-Max8 sub and I live in Estonia, is there chance to get it?
I can replace it by myself, but I can't find any parts available in local or online stores.
Edit:
I have localized the problem, it's faulty EQ board with green label in the middle "DEQ 8-12", no need to replace all just this board, so can I buy a new one somewhere?
Thanks.
The dealer or distributor you purchased the subwoofer from should be able to provide you with service. Purchasing a replacement panel and shipping it internationally, along with customs and duty is quite costly.
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post #8708 of 9087
11/26/12 at 10:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDriver View Post

SPL 1200 Ultra - wil not auto eq any more
The unit is 12 months old and was working great till now. I changed the placement and wanted to redo the eq. I have REW v5 and I can take measurement of the response, and nothing changes after I do an auto eq
I tried resetting to factory resets by pressing P1, P2, P3, P4, P4, P3, P2, P1 which results in the volume going back to [30] but the EQ curve does not change at all.
I have tried powering on and powering off, but still the unit does not want to Auto EQ
What should I try next ?
It should be noted that the EQ curve generated by the SPL ultra is a series of subtle enhancements, not dramatic changes like that you get from the Digital Drive series. If you perform a reset, then take readings, then run the EQ, then take the readings again and compare, there should be some differences. Keep in mind that if your subwoofer happens to be placed in an ideal location there may not be much change compared to other placements. Ultimately if you feel there is still an issue, I would consult with the dealer or distributor for assistance with service outside of the USA.
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post #8709 of 9087
11/26/12 at 10:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by khactuyen View Post

Hello Rob,
1. My velodyne hgs 15 was broken (amplifier and wooden case is good, woofer break down), I can't find driver available in local dealer in Vietnam. Can you tell me where sell 15' woofer in the usa? (i live in Vietnam, my friend can ship it for me), price?.....I can replace it by myself or Minh Sang Vinh (Velodyne dealer in VN)
2. Can i used woofer in DD for HGS?
3. How Impedance Velodyne woofer? amplifier in HGS is 1250w (max=3000w) in Impedance?
Thanks.

We do have the 15 inch HGS driver available, however our experience is that there is a high incidence of drivers becoming damaged in shipping. In order to purchase the driver we require the subwoofer come in so the driver can be installed then return shipped. For more information please contact service@velodyne.com
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post #8710 of 9087
11/26/12 at 8:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

We do have the 15 inch HGS driver available, however our experience is that there is a high incidence of drivers becoming damaged in shipping. In order to purchase the driver we require the subwoofer come in so the driver can be installed then return shipped. For more information please contact service@velodyne.com
Hello,
but i live in Vietnam, i can not ship HGS15 broken to usa (not service do it) because it heavy, big....
By your way, i can buy it from Vietnam? by Velodyne dealer?
And what Impedance is this driver and amp design?
Thanks
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post #8711 of 9087
11/27/12 at 8:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by khactuyen View Post

Hello,
but i live in Vietnam, i can not ship HGS15 broken to usa (not service do it) because it heavy, big....
By your way, i can buy it from Vietnam? by Velodyne dealer?
And what Impedance is this driver and amp design?
Thanks

PM Sent
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post #8712 of 9087
11/27/12 at 11:32am
Thanks for the answer, Rob.
I've accidentally damaged my board, so I understand, that I have no warranty and I don't want to bore dealer, because it's not his problem actually. As I know he uses RMA services or some services in Finland, that would be same expensive as new sub if no warranty.
So I've decided to try fix it by myself.
I'll try to replace rc4558 operational amplifier (the one nearest that produces output for the TMSLF2401AVFA chip), at least my oscilloscope at work shows that it's internally dead (+5V with some noises always on output, even if no input present). I am nothing to loose, really...
Anyway if it does not help, I let you know and if it possible, may be you then suggest me some service in EU which I can contact to buy the replacement board or I'll buy it directly from USA anyway, if possible.
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post #8713 of 9087
11/27/12 at 1:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by w0wka View Post

Thanks for the answer, Rob.
I've accidentally damaged my board, so I understand, that I have no warranty and I don't want to bore dealer, because it's not his problem actually. As I know he uses RMA services or some services in Finland, that would be same expensive as new sub if no warranty.
So I've decided to try fix it by myself.
I'll try to replace rc4558 operational amplifier (the one nearest that produces output for the TMSLF2401AVFA chip), at least my oscilloscope at work shows that it's internally dead (+5V with some noises always on output, even if no input present). I am nothing to loose, really...
Anyway if it does not help, I let you know and if it possible, may be you then suggest me some service in EU which I can contact to buy the replacement board or I'll buy it directly from USA anyway, if possible.

Replacement panels are available if need be. You can contact us at service@velodyne.com
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post #8714 of 9087
11/28/12 at 11:34am
Had a question if anyone can help I just bought a eq max 15 sub I used to have a dsp 12 with the glossy top. My new sub doesn't sound as clear and doesn't Have the same tight punch bass I thought I was upgrading with the eq max. The bass is very muddled it is a lot more powerful but lacks the quality. Do I have to work the sub in to get it sounding better or is it because it's a 15 inch should I get the eq max 12 instead?
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post #8715 of 9087
11/28/12 at 12:19pm
I have a FSR-12 failed about a year ago which is about 14 years old. The speaker wasn't used much but failed due to the age I think. It constantly makes huffing and puffing white noise sound when powered up. It does it without the input connected. Is it failed servo control, accelerometer or woofer itself. Is there a simple fix like a lifting off a Cap leg or simple part replacement? If it cost too much to fix or too complicate to fix, I will use it as a passive sub removing the original Amp. Appreciate any help. Thanks.
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post #8716 of 9087
11/28/12 at 3:57pm
Hi Rob,
I have read on AVS some time ago that the SMS has a standby mode. Is that so and if so, how do you set it to do so.
Thanks
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post #8717 of 9087
11/29/12 at 12:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Appaknows View Post

I have a FSR-12 failed about a year ago which is about 14 years old. The speaker wasn't used much but failed due to the age I think. It constantly makes huffing and puffing white noise sound when powered up. It does it without the input connected. Is it failed servo control, accelerometer or woofer itself. Is there a simple fix like a lifting off a Cap leg or simple part replacement? If it cost too much to fix or too complicate to fix, I will use it as a passive sub removing the original Amp. Appreciate any help. Thanks.
If you remove the grille and see the driver breathing in and out on its own or trying to jump to full excursion, then the accelerometer has failed and there is no fix, unfortunately replacement drivers for this subwoofer are no longer available. If the subwoofer is humming or buzzing on its own it could very well be an amplifier and we can send you the schematics via email to assist in the diagnosis.
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post #8718 of 9087
11/29/12 at 12:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shivaji View Post

Hi Rob,
I have read on AVS some time ago that the SMS has a standby mode. Is that so and if so, how do you set it to do so.
Thanks
Since the SMS-1 does no amplification, the only thing standby does is turn off the LED display. This is done by powering the unit on or off with the remote or the 12 volt trigger, there is no auto on/off mode.
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post #8719 of 9087
11/30/12 at 7:36am
Any news if Velodyne will be refreshing the SMS-1? Maybe something with HDMI out and able to EQ multiple subs independently? I need a EQ for my subs and would hate to buy one if it's going to be refreshed in the near future. Looks like it's hard to get too.. Vanns and Amazon are all out of stock....?

Any ways, I have currently HGS18 and DefTech BP7000SC which have 14 inch subs with two passive radiators. The subs in the towers get their bass signal from the amp via high level inputs. Any thoughts on how to best control this setup? I would hate to crossover the towers to high and loss any "stereo" bass.
Edited by truwarrior22 - 11/30/12 at 7:45am
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post #8720 of 9087
11/30/12 at 10:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by truwarrior22 View Post

Any news if Velodyne will be refreshing the SMS-1? Maybe something with HDMI out and able to EQ multiple subs independently? I need a EQ for my subs and would hate to buy one if it's going to be refreshed in the near future. Looks like it's hard to get too.. Vanns and Amazon are all out of stock....?
Any ways, I have currently HGS18 and DefTech BP7000SC which have 14 inch subs with two passive radiators. The subs in the towers get their bass signal from the amp via high level inputs. Any thoughts on how to best control this setup? I would hate to crossover the towers to high and loss any "stereo" bass.
There are no plans to update the SMS-1 at this time. But like Yoda said "Difficult to see, Always in motion is the future"
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post #8721 of 9087
11/30/12 at 10:40am
Any reason why they are hard to find? Vanns.com said they have a issue getting them from Velodyne? Demand high?
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post #8722 of 9087
11/30/12 at 11:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by truwarrior22 View Post

Any reason why they are hard to find? Vanns.com said they have a issue getting them from Velodyne? Demand high?
The SMS-1 is available directly from Velodyne.com
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post #8723 of 9087
11/30/12 at 11:27am
Just curious but I have the EQ-Max10 and after I did the sub EQ and then the EQ on the receiver via Audyssey MutiEQ XT, I don't recall the gain on the back but what volume is normal to have the sub at? I have it around 14-18. Not sure if that is too low or not.

I assume it depends on your preference and room layout, etc. so hard to ask I guess.

Room is about 20x12x8 I think.

Anyhow this has been the first true sub I bought and had for about a year now. I want to feel more of the bass for sure so I'll probably need to move the sub around or do a crawl but definitely lazy about all that setup and moving. By could just be the sub is not as powerful as I need. smile.gif
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post #8724 of 9087
11/30/12 at 12:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kikkoman View Post

Just curious but I have the EQ-Max10 and after I did the sub EQ and then the EQ on the receiver via Audyssey MutiEQ XT, I don't recall the gain on the back but what volume is normal to have the sub at? I have it around 14-18. Not sure if that is too low or not.
I assume it depends on your preference and room layout, etc. so hard to ask I guess.
Room is about 20x12x8 I think.
Anyhow this has been the first true sub I bought and had for about a year now. I want to feel more of the bass for sure so I'll probably need to move the sub around or do a crawl but definitely lazy about all that setup and moving. By could just be the sub is not as powerful as I need. smile.gif
While by default the volume is set at 30, that is by no means where it should be left. Your personal preference is what should be used above any thing anyone else tells you. As a rule of thumb my recommended setup for a system such as yours is as follows:
1. On the subwoofer set the cross-over to direct
2. In your processor's bass management set the speakers all to small with a crossover between 80-120Hz.
3. In your processor bass management set the LFE cross-over between 80-100Hz
4. Run your Subwoofer's Auto-EQ
5. Run your processor's Audyssey Equalization
6. In your processor bass management return the LFE or Sub out to the neutral 0db setting.
7. Using the subwoofer volume adjust the bass mixture to your liking.
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post #8725 of 9087
11/30/12 at 3:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

If you remove the grille and see the driver breathing in and out on its own or trying to jump to full excursion, then the accelerometer has failed and there is no fix, unfortunately replacement drivers for this subwoofer are no longer available. If the subwoofer is humming or buzzing on its own it could very well be an amplifier and we can send you the schematics via email to assist in the diagnosis.

Actually, I have both problems you describe above. The driver is breathing in and out but no full excursion but it is humming with white noise. I removed the amp and woofer from the box, and test the woofer only with sub input connected with another amp. It does not hum nor makes any white noise sound. Is there any chance the woofer is still bad because it stopped breathing and stopped making white noise because the control wires were disconnected from the woofer? I assume these are control wires for sub besides the speaker in(+ -). If the problem is amp, I'll try to replace it with a generic amp and use the woofer. Thank you for your help.
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post #8726 of 9087
12/1/12 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Appaknows View Post

Actually, I have both problems you describe above. The driver is breathing in and out but no full excursion but it is humming with white noise. I removed the amp and woofer from the box, and test the woofer only with sub input connected with another amp. It does not hum nor makes any white noise sound. Is there any chance the woofer is still bad because it stopped breathing and stopped making white noise because the control wires were disconnected from the woofer? I assume these are control wires for sub besides the speaker in(+ -). If the problem is amp, I'll try to replace it with a generic amp and use the woofer. Thank you for your help.

Update: I removed the Velodyne amp and connected the sub to external power amp, basically using it as a passive. All noise and humming sound are gone but the bass performance has drastically reduced missing the precise bass and heavy thump. But, It works. I guess it's about time to get a new sub to get to fsr-12 performance. Thank you for your help.
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post #8727 of 9087
12/2/12 at 11:55am
I have the SPL-1500R and would like to know what setting I should have the low-pass crossover set at. It is set at 60Hz as I write. Options are between 40-120Hz's or direct setting. Thanks

My setup is as follows:

(2) Rear WH 2 series Wharfedales
(1) Energy CC10 center
(2) Sound Dynamics RTS-P100 powered speakers (towers)
Marantz SR7001 AV receiver
Velodyne SPL-1500R sub

KRP500M Pioneer plasma
PS3
Dish satellite receiver
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post #8728 of 9087
12/3/12 at 8:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Appaknows View Post

Actually, I have both problems you describe above. The driver is breathing in and out but no full excursion but it is humming with white noise. I removed the amp and woofer from the box, and test the woofer only with sub input connected with another amp. It does not hum nor makes any white noise sound. Is there any chance the woofer is still bad because it stopped breathing and stopped making white noise because the control wires were disconnected from the woofer? I assume these are control wires for sub besides the speaker in(+ -). If the problem is amp, I'll try to replace it with a generic amp and use the woofer. Thank you for your help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Appaknows View Post

Update: I removed the Velodyne amp and connected the sub to external power amp, basically using it as a passive. All noise and humming sound are gone but the bass performance has drastically reduced missing the precise bass and heavy thump. But, It works. I guess it's about time to get a new sub to get to fsr-12 performance. Thank you for your help.

Yes, sadly it sounds like a failure of the accelerometer and servo control mechanism. Comparable subwoofers would be either the Optimum Series (no accelerometer) or the Digital Drive plus series (our current servo sub).
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post #8729 of 9087
12/3/12 at 8:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by purplerain View Post

I have the SPL-1500R and would like to know what setting I should have the low-pass crossover set at. It is set at 60Hz as I write. Options are between 40-120Hz's or direct setting. Thanks
My setup is as follows:
(2) Rear WH 2 series Wharfedales
(1) Energy CC10 center
(2) Sound Dynamics RTS-P100 powered speakers (towers)
Marantz SR7001 AV receiver
Velodyne SPL-1500R sub
KRP500M Pioneer plasma
PS3
Dish satellite receiver

If you are using the LFE or subwoofer output from your receiver and utilizing the bass management controls in the Marantz, then the Velodyne crossover should be set at direct. Within your Marantz I would recommend setting your crossover between 80-120Hz. In my opinion too many people set the crossover too low because their speakers are specified to 30-40HZ or lower. They do not take into account that while the speakers can reproduce those sounds, in order to do so with any significance, the amplifier needs to be turned fairly high up for those frequencies to be heard due to their power hungry nature. They also forget that the crossover point is not a cut filter, with a standard 12dB/octave slope and a crossover set at 80Hz, the main speakers will still be receiving signals well below 80Hz.
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post #8730 of 9087
12/3/12 at 8:17am
Started up my DD-18 yesterday and it stared making small random rumbling noises, like little thumps. It wasn't even picking up an active signal and I even disconnected the inputs to it.

Any ideas as to what's wrong and whether I can repair it myself? This thing is a beast and I prefer not having to pull it out of the theater and into the car to haul it somewhere. Hoping it's nothing serious but hopefully easy fix.

How does this thing break like that? I hardly even use it and I'm pretty sure i never overdrove it or anything like that.
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