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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 298

post #8911 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

Replacement remotes and microphones are available from your local distributor or from Velodyne directly. If you choose to purchase from Velodyne directly, you will be responsible for international shipping charges as well as any taxes, duties, and customs charges.

Hi Rob,

May I ask, do you know how much each of these cost?

Many Thanks!
Bazzy!
post #8912 of 9028
Thanks Rob, that's reassuring ! I will help calm the rumors down by linking to your answer.

There are also some rumors of Velodyne concentrating on headphones (that is obviously true) and stopping high-end subwoofers...

Are you allowed to comment on this last one?
post #8913 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazzy View Post

Hi Rob,

May I ask, do you know how much each of these cost?

Many Thanks!
Bazzy!

I can not speak to pricing outside the US, you would need to check with your local distributor. To get the latest accessory pricing from Velodyne direct, email service@velodyne.com . Keep in mind you will need to add shipping and importation fees.
post #8914 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyr35 View Post

Thanks Rob, that's reassuring ! I will help calm the rumors down by linking to your answer.

There are also some rumors of Velodyne concentrating on headphones (that is obviously true) and stopping high-end subwoofers...

Are you allowed to comment on this last one?

While Velodyne is concentrating on launching our complete line of headphones, some are out now and some are in development, there are also some new subwoofers and updates to current subwoofers also in development.
post #8915 of 9028
Good day from the Philippines. Bought a velodyne cht 10q last august of 2011. I felt the store overpriced it as it cost 40,000 Php but since there were really no other choices in my region, I went for it.

Been using for a while and then suddenly it didnt power on, that was march 2012. Now I called up the store where i bought it and they said they asked me to bring it over and check whats wrong. When i got there, they said they need to ship it to Manila and asked me to pay for shipping. I was a little bothered by it since its under warranty, they should shoulder the cost.

Anyways, that was the beginning of my nightmare. When it arrived in manila, a velodyne rep told me that the amp got fried and asked me if i was using a line conditioner. I told them that I did and was really careful with the sub. I never pushed it past 30 and set the channel volume on my denon 1611 on two. They insisted it was my fault and said to call back a few days to check how much i would need to pay. Called 4 days later and the woman on the line forwarded me to the technician and he said i needed to pay 30,000 php. That was already as much as a brand new one! I blew my top and scolded them that the item was still under warranty. The tech then told me to call a few days later.

When I called back a few days, he apologized that he errouneously quoted the wrong job order and said I only needed to pay 5000 php. I insisted it was under warranty. I was still mad but they said if i didnt pay for it, they would just send it back broken. So i let them fix it and just decided to pay the fee just to get it over with. Long story short, it took them 4 months to ship it back to me, extremely frustrating! When i went to claim it from the store where i bought it, they were now asking me 7000 php. Again i blew my top and said the tech only asked for 5000php. The store guy supposedly called this tech to confirm it and settled for 5000php.

When i got home, i tested it and i thought it was fine. A few days later, it started buzzing and i noticed that when i turn it on, theres a scratching sound when it starts up. I just endured the random buzzing coz i didnt want to go throught that BS again.

Yesterday my cousin was fiddling around my rec roomand he accidentally plugged the subs on a 220 volt outlet. It was set at 110, so i assume a fuse blew.
I swore off dealing with that store ever so i was hoping to replace it myself. However, i cant seem to access the fuse coz i cant open the back plate. Ive removed all the screws in frustration and its a no-go.

Needless to say im extremely frustrated with this purchase and im hoping i could find a solution to this problem in here before i trash and give up on this sub for good.
post #8916 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yungfu View Post

Good day from the Philippines. Bought a velodyne cht 10q last august of 2011. I felt the store overpriced it as it cost 40,000 Php but since there were really no other choices in my region, I went for it.

Been using for a while and then suddenly it didnt power on, that was march 2012. Now I called up the store where i bought it and they said they asked me to bring it over and check whats wrong. When i got there, they said they need to ship it to Manila and asked me to pay for shipping. I was a little bothered by it since its under warranty, they should shoulder the cost.

Anyways, that was the beginning of my nightmare. When it arrived in manila, a velodyne rep told me that the amp got fried and asked me if i was using a line conditioner. I told them that I did and was really careful with the sub. I never pushed it past 30 and set the channel volume on my denon 1611 on two. They insisted it was my fault and said to call back a few days to check how much i would need to pay. Called 4 days later and the woman on the line forwarded me to the technician and he said i needed to pay 30,000 php. That was already as much as a brand new one! I blew my top and scolded them that the item was still under warranty. The tech then told me to call a few days later.

When I called back a few days, he apologized that he errouneously quoted the wrong job order and said I only needed to pay 5000 php. I insisted it was under warranty. I was still mad but they said if i didnt pay for it, they would just send it back broken. So i let them fix it and just decided to pay the fee just to get it over with. Long story short, it took them 4 months to ship it back to me, extremely frustrating! When i went to claim it from the store where i bought it, they were now asking me 7000 php. Again i blew my top and said the tech only asked for 5000php. The store guy supposedly called this tech to confirm it and settled for 5000php.

When i got home, i tested it and i thought it was fine. A few days later, it started buzzing and i noticed that when i turn it on, theres a scratching sound when it starts up. I just endured the random buzzing coz i didnt want to go throught that BS again.

Yesterday my cousin was fiddling around my rec roomand he accidentally plugged the subs on a 220 volt outlet. It was set at 110, so i assume a fuse blew.
I swore off dealing with that store ever so i was hoping to replace it myself. However, i cant seem to access the fuse coz i cant open the back plate. Ive removed all the screws in frustration and its a no-go.

Needless to say im extremely frustrated with this purchase and im hoping i could find a solution to this problem in here before i trash and give up on this sub for good.

I am sorry to hear of your experience and will contact our distributor in the Philippines to hear what they have to say. The CHT-Q is sold in the 220 volt configuration and altering the voltage does void the warranty. Flipping the voltage switch does not fully convert this subwoofer from one voltage to the other, this is why the subwoofer is not sold as a dual voltage subwoofer and the switch is covered with a warning at the factory. If the original damage could have been traced back to operating this subwoofer on a voltage other than the intended voltage then they were correct to charge you for repairs.

If you would like to check the fuse, on this unit you should not need to remove the back panel. There should be a pull out directly under where the plug connects to the subwoofer, and the fuse is held in this pull out.
post #8917 of 9028
I forgot to mention that during the first time i sent it for repairs, I didnt switch the voltage. It was set for 220V and I have been very careful with it. I was able to use it for 6 months. It just stopped functioning one day and thats when I claimed warranty.

When I got it back from them, it was randomly buzzing at times. I wanted to make sure it wasnt the line so I used a spare 110V line conditioner. It worked fine for months but it was still buzzing randomly. And just to clear, I used it on 220V for a month prior to switching it to 110V.

My cousin was in my rec room last week and he tried moving stuff around. He didnt realize it was set to 110v and plugged it straight to the wall. I do accept that it was operator error the 2nd time around. But if I cannot accept responsibilty the first time it just stopped working.

I found the fuse box and replaced the fuse with the exact specs for 220v and set the switch accordingly. When I turned it on, it buzzed, then nothing. I checked the new fuse and it blew.
post #8918 of 9028
Hi Again Rob,

Just wanted some more help from you! My room is W4m x D3.6m x H2.4m. Do you feel one SPL-800 Ultra is sufficient? Is there a need for another & if so, what additional but meaningful benefit might it bring?

I understand that this sub does not have any magnetic shielding - will there be any issues if one placed it directly under a 51" Plasma TV?

Finally, would there be any issues by pacing the sub mid-way between the left & right walls, again, under the TV with the left & right satellite speakers about 3-4" either side of the sub?

Many Kind Thanks!

Bazzy!
post #8919 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yungfu View Post

I forgot to mention that during the first time i sent it for repairs, I didnt switch the voltage. It was set for 220V and I have been very careful with it. I was able to use it for 6 months. It just stopped functioning one day and thats when I claimed warranty.

When I got it back from them, it was randomly buzzing at times. I wanted to make sure it wasnt the line so I used a spare 110V line conditioner. It worked fine for months but it was still buzzing randomly. And just to clear, I used it on 220V for a month prior to switching it to 110V.

My cousin was in my rec room last week and he tried moving stuff around. He didnt realize it was set to 110v and plugged it straight to the wall. I do accept that it was operator error the 2nd time around. But if I cannot accept responsibilty the first time it just stopped working.

I found the fuse box and replaced the fuse with the exact specs for 220v and set the switch accordingly. When I turned it on, it buzzed, then nothing. I checked the new fuse and it blew.

I will work with you off line along with the local distributor to see if a resolution can be reached. Please PM me your name, email address, contact phone number, and the model and serial number of the unit in question. Additionally if you have the name of the store from where you purchased the unit or any repair documents with ticket numbers on them please provide that as well. This will help to identify the issue to the distributor. Thank you.
post #8920 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazzy View Post

Hi Again Rob,

Just wanted some more help from you! My room is W4m x D3.6m x H2.4m. Do you feel one SPL-800 Ultra is sufficient? Is there a need for another & if so, what additional but meaningful benefit might it bring?

I understand that this sub does not have any magnetic shielding - will there be any issues if one placed it directly under a 51" Plasma TV?

Finally, would there be any issues by pacing the sub mid-way between the left & right walls, again, under the TV with the left & right satellite speakers about 3-4" either side of the sub?

Many Kind Thanks!

Bazzy!

In looking at your room size of 34.56 cubic meters (or 1220.47 cubic feet), the SPL-800 Ultra is more than capable of handling a room of that size. The addition of a second subwoofer can improve the sound in the room as nodes are evened out, but given the SPL-800 Ultra's ability to fill a room of nearly twice the volume of space you should have no difficulty reaching reference output levels.

LCD and Plasma TVs are not affected by magnets, so there is no issue with subwoofer not being shielded.

Every room is different with regards to how the sound loads the room, as such experimentation with subwoofer placement will yield the best results. Remember there is no such thing as a right or wrong location for a subwoofer, aside from not having one, there is only what sounds better to you vs. where you are willing to place the subwoofer based on your aesthetics.
post #8921 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

In looking at your room size of 34.56 cubic meters (or 1220.47 cubic feet), the SPL-800 Ultra is more than capable of handling a room of that size. The addition of a second subwoofer can improve the sound in the room as nodes are evened out, but given the SPL-800 Ultra's ability to fill a room of nearly twice the volume of space you should have no difficulty reaching reference output levels.

LCD and Plasma TVs are not affected by magnets, so there is no issue with subwoofer not being shielded.

Every room is different with regards to how the sound loads the room, as such experimentation with subwoofer placement will yield the best results. Remember there is no such thing as a right or wrong location for a subwoofer, aside from not having one, there is only what sounds better to you vs. where you are willing to place the subwoofer based on your aesthetics.

Hi Rob,

Thank you so much again! I will do my best to try different locations but am limited as to where I can place it. Only other option would be to place it at the rear of the room & I do not know if taht would work or the implications given that the satellite speakers will be at the front!

Bazzy!
post #8922 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazzy View Post

Hi Rob,

Thank you so much again! I will do my best to try different locations but am limited as to where I can place it. Only other option would be to place it at the rear of the room & I do not know if taht would work or the implications given that the satellite speakers will be at the front!

Bazzy!
In theory, the subwoofer should be non-localized which means its placement does not matter. Good Luck.
post #8923 of 9028
I've had a Optimum 12 for a month now and so impressed with it I've ordered a second one.
post #8924 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by elphillips View Post

I've had a Optimum 12 for a month now and so impressed with it I've ordered a second one.
One Optimum 12 is great, but two is down right amazing. Enjoy those subs!
post #8925 of 9028
Hi Rob.

Greeting from the Philippines. I have a velodyne cht12r which suddenly stopped working. It powers on with the blue light but no sound. I brought it to a repair shop since it was out of warranty and was told the amplifier got fried. They said it probably was due to being overdriven by the receiver or by sudden surge of electricity.

The velodyne is connected to a denon 2213 and sub level is at 0. Volume of the sub is at the middle. The power of the sub is also connected to a voltage regulator to avoid sudden surge in electricity.

What are the possible causes ir reasons that a subwoofer amplifier would fry??

Could i have a defective LF output on my denon that would fry the amp?

Could it be a defective voltage regulator? But if the voltage regulator is the problem, all appliances connected to that would have gotten toasted as well.
post #8926 of 9028
For some reason my Velodyne DE Q subwoofer is not responding during Blu-ray/DVD viewing via my Oppo 93 player. It is set to auto-on and works fine with Comcast cable (which is routed thru the Oppo) and my Yamaha CD player. I did the test tone in the Oppo audio set up and indeed the subwoofer emits no tone even when I manually turn on the subwoofer. I've had the Oppo for a couple of months and the subwoofer was working until recently. Any ideas?
post #8927 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by beefy314 View Post

Hi Rob.

Greeting from the Philippines. I have a velodyne cht12r which suddenly stopped working. It powers on with the blue light but no sound. I brought it to a repair shop since it was out of warranty and was told the amplifier got fried. They said it probably was due to being overdriven by the receiver or by sudden surge of electricity.

The velodyne is connected to a denon 2213 and sub level is at 0. Volume of the sub is at the middle. The power of the sub is also connected to a voltage regulator to avoid sudden surge in electricity.

What are the possible causes ir reasons that a subwoofer amplifier would fry??

Could i have a defective LF output on my denon that would fry the amp?

Could it be a defective voltage regulator? But if the voltage regulator is the problem, all appliances connected to that would have gotten toasted as well.

I can not see the receiver causing any problem with the subwoofer. Typically when they say over driven, they mean the subwoofer was turned up too high. This may not be the issue, and diagnosing the root cause via a forum thread is not possible. What I would say is that I agree there is likely a problem with the amplifier based on the description of power but no output.
post #8928 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerreed View Post

For some reason my Velodyne DE Q subwoofer is not responding during Blu-ray/DVD viewing via my Oppo 93 player. It is set to auto-on and works fine with Comcast cable (which is routed thru the Oppo) and my Yamaha CD player. I did the test tone in the Oppo audio set up and indeed the subwoofer emits no tone even when I manually turn on the subwoofer. I've had the Oppo for a couple of months and the subwoofer was working until recently. Any ideas?

Since the subwoofer works with other sources, we know the problem is not the subwoofer itself. If your subwoofer is connected to an audio video receiver and you are using a digital audio connection from the Oppo to the receiver, then I would check to see if the receiver's Oppo input is set to discreet which would limit the signal to the subwoofers to the LFE track and exclude any bass you normally get through the bass management crossover network. You can also check to see if your bass management settings as some receivers have different settings for different inputs.
post #8929 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerreed View Post

For some reason my Velodyne DE Q subwoofer is not responding during Blu-ray/DVD viewing via my Oppo 93 player. It is set to auto-on and works fine with Comcast cable (which is routed thru the Oppo) and my Yamaha CD player. I did the test tone in the Oppo audio set up and indeed the subwoofer emits no tone even when I manually turn on the subwoofer. I've had the Oppo for a couple of months and the subwoofer was working until recently. Any ideas?

Not enough information. How is the Oppo player connected to the receiver? On the Oppo how is the front/surround speakers set? Large or small if you are using the analog outputs of the Oppo. Is the test tone from the receiver or the Oppo? Why are you using the Yamaha CD player when the Oppo can perform that duty?
post #8930 of 9028
Velodyne has now partnered with AudioQuest: http://velodyne.com/product-accessories/cables.html
post #8931 of 9028
Greetings!

I happened to come across a Velodyne remote that I am unable to identify. It doesn't have any model number or markings. Any thoughts as to what it's for?

post #8932 of 9028
Kind of disappointed. I was listening to a B-Ball game last night when my sub started screaming with feedback. Replaced the amp 2 years ago, is this what I should expect in the future from this sub? I only use it at low volume for TV and could use a cheap sub. Into this thing a couple of $K and climbing. HGS-12
post #8933 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wreckoniz View Post

Greetings!

I happened to come across a Velodyne remote that I am unable to identify. It doesn't have any model number or markings. Any thoughts as to what it's for?

This is a remote for the FSR series subwoofer, it will also work with the HGS 15 and 18 subwoofer.
post #8934 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrow View Post

Kind of disappointed. I was listening to a B-Ball game last night when my sub started screaming with feedback. Replaced the amp 2 years ago, is this what I should expect in the future from this sub? I only use it at low volume for TV and could use a cheap sub. Into this thing a couple of $K and climbing. HGS-12

No, this is not what you should expect. Contact us with your serial number so we can view your repair history and see what can be done.
post #8935 of 9028
Hi Rob,

What is the signal delay for internal processing in a DD+ subwoofer?

Thanks,
Xavier.
post #8936 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyr35 View Post

Hi Rob,

What is the signal delay for internal processing in a DD+ subwoofer?

Thanks,
Xavier.

It can only be measured in micro seconds.
post #8937 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

It can only be measured in micro seconds.
That seems very little, may be my question was unclear.

I have read that the sampling frequency in a DD+ is of 16 kHz. If your digital filter bank needs 32 samples a 32 samples delay is already 2 milli-seconds.
Some people talk about a 20 milli-seconds delay...

But then if we are talking micro-seconds, this could be explained by a 44 kHz sampling and a very optimal 3 samples delay which would give 68 micro-seconds...

Could you tell me where the truth is ? Sampling rate ? Number of samples delay ?
post #8938 of 9028
All of the delay in the unit is due to the analog to digital conversion plus one clock cycle, otherwise the IIR filters used are virtually instantaneous, identical to analog filter implementation. Calculated out the maximum delay would be in the 1.1 millisecond range.
post #8939 of 9028
Halloo, Rob and forum participants:

I've used Velo subs since my first ULD-15 and have been delighted with their performance. I'd very much appreciate your analysis and recommendations on one of my DD15s that seems to have indigestion.

One of my two DD15s occasionally "gurgles." It is set to turn on when a signal is present, and it randomly does so and produces thumps & bumps of varying frequencies. If I unplug the sub for a few days, the behavior will stop for awhile.

The subs are daisy chained via the pass-through on the rear panel, with the gurgling sub being the first in the chain. Both are on a dedicated 20-amp circuit and connected via Brickwall surge suppressors http://www.brickwall.com/collections/surge-protectors-home-theater-hdtv/products/two-outlet-audio-surge-protector).

Thanks for your help.

RJ
post #8940 of 9028
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoThere View Post

Halloo, Rob and forum participants:

I've used Velo subs since my first ULD-15 and have been delighted with their performance. I'd very much appreciate your analysis and recommendations on one of my DD15s that seems to have indigestion.

One of my two DD15s occasionally "gurgles." It is set to turn on when a signal is present, and it randomly does so and produces thumps & bumps of varying frequencies. If I unplug the sub for a few days, the behavior will stop for awhile.

The subs are daisy chained via the pass-through on the rear panel, with the gurgling sub being the first in the chain. Both are on a dedicated 20-amp circuit and connected via Brickwall surge suppressors http://www.brickwall.com/collections/surge-protectors-home-theater-hdtv/products/two-outlet-audio-surge-protector).

Thanks for your help.

RJ

I would recommend contacting service@velodyne.com or calling 408-465-2851 (M-F between 7-4:30 PDT) they will need to issue a return authorization for the electronics pack to come in for testing and possible service.
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