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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 300

post #8971 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by capricorn kid View Post

It always shocks me how many people have issues with their subs. Sometimes I read thru this Velodyne thread and wonder why so many of these subs go bad. Was I just lucky or am I just not pushing my sub hard enough. I have owned a Velodyne DPS 12 for about 9 or 10 yrs and have had ZERO issues with it. Even though I don't use it in my theater anymore, I do use it in my music set up and it sounds fantastic.
SAM_0219.JPG 1237k .JPG file
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I have said it before but I think it is worth saying again... I have other subs that I use but this is the best sounding sub I had in my theater. The only reason I did not buy two or three more is because they were discontinued and I could not find any used ones at the time. I would have loved to have four of these in my theater room.

That is the thing about the internet and forums, people often come together online to solve problems or to complain, so what you get is a distorted view of a products experience. When was the last time you read a post from someone on any forum that reads "I just wanted to say my product is working without issue"? Regardless of the product, always remember support forums can be misleading. The only truth the forums can tell is the dedication to the brand, by way of the number of people that love their older products and want to go through the hassle of solving a problem on their unit rather than just replacing it with a new one.
post #8972 of 9547
I see on ebay it has Velodyne 2x SC-15 and amp SC-1250 for $1500. I need a subwooferr for HT. I need your input to see. How is this set compare to rythmik f 25, power sound xs30 or svs? How is importance of auto EQ build in with SC 1250 since my receiver already have auto EQ?

thank a lot.
post #8973 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by thuchien View Post

I see on ebay it has Velodyne 2x SC-15 and amp SC-1250 for $1500. I need a subwooferr for HT. I need your input to see. How is this set compare to rythmik f 25, power sound xs30 or svs? How is importance of auto EQ build in with SC 1250 since my receiver already have auto EQ?

thank a lot.

The Subcontractor series utilizes a separate rack mounted amplifier with an integrated 7 band equalizer auto room correction capable of driving two subwoofers at 1250 watts RMS each. The subwoofers connect to the amplifier using standard speaker wire. The SC-15 cabinets are the smallest form factor 15 inch subwoofer we have seen at 18.5" x 18" x 9.9" and can be set up as either forward firing or downward firing depending upon your installation. The two 15 inch subwoofers sold in this package are capable of delivering high output reference level bass in rooms up to 4400 cubic feet

http://velodyne.com/pdf/subcontractor/sc-15_datasheet.pdf
post #8974 of 9547
I tried searching, but this thread is so large...
I have a 1996 Velodyne VA Series subwoofer, model VA12BVX10 which I purchased second-hand from a friend.

For as long as I can remember, it has had an annoying "Thump" from time to time. It sounds like a discharge of static electricity coming through at full volume. The speaker is situated across the room from the home theater system (currently a Denon AVR-3313CI) and so is plugged into a different power outlet, although I hear no indication of a ground-loop hum.

Is this a common problem? Does this indicate something going bad in the amplifier/power section which I can get repaired?

I really love this unit and would like to do what I can to keep it in service.

Thanks,
post #8975 of 9547
Mark, you may be having a problem similar to one I experienced with one of my DD15s, which would turn on randomly and thump and gurgle away. As you'll see from my posts above, I trotted the amp down to Velodyne in Morgan Hill (wanted to see subwoofer Mecca) and it was repaired, upgraded, and shipped to me in only two days. I received it by UPS only four business days after I dropped it off. Uninstalling and reinstalling the amp was easy; just follow Rob's advice and take good clear photos of the connections before you pull the connectors.

Jeff Davis at Velodyne support is a prince among men, and he and the Velo crew will treat you right. You just email Jeff at service@velodyne.com for an RMA form, or phone him at 408.465.2848.

Cheerio,

RJ
post #8976 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

That is the thing about the internet and forums, people often come together online to solve problems or to complain, so what you get is a distorted view of a products experience. When was the last time you read a post from someone on any forum that reads "I just wanted to say my product is working without issue"? Regardless of the product, always remember support forums can be misleading. The only truth the forums can tell is the dedication to the brand, by way of the number of people that love their older products and want to go through the hassle of solving a problem on their unit rather than just replacing it with a new one.


Rob, I just wanted to say my product is working without issue. wink.gif

So there. Now you have one person who said it.

But seriously folks . . . your points are most apt, Rob; it's rare to find a forum that contains balanced views of a product's virtues and issues. Luckily, most of the AVS threads I've experienced are positive and helpful, and it's wonderful to see a manufacturer commit the time to work directly with users, so I thank you and Velodyne for this.

This Monday, I received my repaired (and upgraded - thanks, Velo!) DD15 amp, reinstalled it in the sub, and now both of our DD15s are woofing happily. The sound is glorious.


RJ
_______________
Whiney Napa Valley

The means — Bryston SP3 | Bryston 6B-SST(C) - L/C/R; 4B-SST(C) - surrounds; 4B-SST(C) - rears | Bryston BDP-2 Digital Player; BDA-2 D/A Converter; Oppo BDP-105 | Paradigm Reference Signature S8 fronts; C5 center; ADP surrounds; S4 rears; two Velodyne DD15 subs | APC S20 | Pioneer Elite PRO-1130
post #8977 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

I tried searching, but this thread is so large...
I have a 1996 Velodyne VA Series subwoofer, model VA12BVX10 which I purchased second-hand from a friend.

For as long as I can remember, it has had an annoying "Thump" from time to time. It sounds like a discharge of static electricity coming through at full volume. The speaker is situated across the room from the home theater system (currently a Denon AVR-3313CI) and so is plugged into a different power outlet, although I hear no indication of a ground-loop hum.

Is this a common problem? Does this indicate something going bad in the amplifier/power section which I can get repaired?

I really love this unit and would like to do what I can to keep it in service.

Thanks,

There is a good chance there may be an issue with the electronics portion of your subwoofer. This subwoofer can be taken to any local audio repair shop. If they need schematics, we can provide them at no charge. Being an older subwoofer this is a much easier unit to repair with off the shelf components.
post #8978 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoThere View Post

Rob, I just wanted to say my product is working without issue. wink.gif

So there. Now you have one person who said it.

But seriously folks . . . your points are most apt, Rob; it's rare to find a forum that contains balanced views of a product's virtues and issues. Luckily, most of the AVS threads I've experienced are positive and helpful, and it's wonderful to see a manufacturer commit the time to work directly with users, so I thank you and Velodyne for this.

This Monday, I received my repaired (and upgraded - thanks, Velo!) DD15 amp, reinstalled it in the sub, and now both of our DD15s are woofing happily. The sound is glorious.


RJ
_______________

I am glad to hear you are again enjoying you Subwoofer.
post #8979 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

There is a good chance there may be an issue with the electronics portion of your subwoofer. This subwoofer can be taken to any local audio repair shop. If they need schematics, we can provide them at no charge. Being an older subwoofer this is a much easier unit to repair with off the shelf components.
I just took my subwoofer to a local stereo repair shop. The guy has been in business for decades and claims to know his stuff.

However, he said that the "thumps" I have been experiencing are not likely to be due to bad electronics (capacitors, etc.) and are most probably due to either the AV receiver or the audio cable connecting the audio from the AVR to the sub. I explained that the thumping has been happening for at least the last two AVRs, so I don't think it's the AVR.

He said he would run the sub without any audio input for a few days to see if it thumps. He says that if it doesn't thump under this condition, there is nothing wrong with it.

I was wondering if it is possible that the "condition" which causes the thumps might only be induced by having an audio signal on the sub - such that his test will show no problem even when there is actually a problem with the electronics. Is this possible?

Do I need to find a different repair guy?

Thanks for any feedback.
post #8980 of 9547
Since you're not that far from Velodyne headquarters, Mark, why not just send (or drive) it to Morgan Hill? In my experience, the Velo factory service was first-rate, quick, and courteous. They not only repaired but upgraded my DD15 amp but had it back to me in less than a week.

See details in my post 8975 above.

RJ
post #8981 of 9547
My Velodyne DD-10 Plus keeps going into standby mode during regular playback at medium listening levels, even using both RCA inputs with +10db boost from my receiver.

I see some Velodyne subwoofers have an "inactive mode" switch which turns off the standby circuitry. The DD-10 Plus manual discusses "inactive mode" but does not explain how to enable it.

From online reviews I've seen it's apparently possible to set the subwoofer into inactive mode via the Windows Digital Drive Plus application. However, my disc is scratched and I'm unable to get Windows to read the disc. Many companies will host their software online, however on Velodyne's website, they only have links to the manual. Is there any other way to getting this program?
post #8982 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoThere View Post

Since you're not that far from Velodyne headquarters, Mark, why not just send (or drive) it to Morgan Hill? In my experience, the Velo factory service was first-rate, quick, and courteous. They not only repaired but upgraded my DD15 amp but had it back to me in less than a week.

See details in my post 8975 above.

RJ

Velodyne has told me they no longer support this model and that my only option is to get service from a local repair shop.
post #8983 of 9547
Drat, Mark. That's disappointing. I believe they'll supply schematics to your repair shop.

RJ
post #8984 of 9547
Yes, they did provide the schematic, which I forwarded on to the shop.

Any thoughts from anyone on what the local tech had to say?

Thanks,
post #8985 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

I just took my subwoofer to a local stereo repair shop. The guy has been in business for decades and claims to know his stuff.

However, he said that the "thumps" I have been experiencing are not likely to be due to bad electronics (capacitors, etc.) and are most probably due to either the AV receiver or the audio cable connecting the audio from the AVR to the sub. I explained that the thumping has been happening for at least the last two AVRs, so I don't think it's the AVR.

He said he would run the sub without any audio input for a few days to see if it thumps. He says that if it doesn't thump under this condition, there is nothing wrong with it.

I was wondering if it is possible that the "condition" which causes the thumps might only be induced by having an audio signal on the sub - such that his test will show no problem even when there is actually a problem with the electronics. Is this possible?

Do I need to find a different repair guy?

Thanks for any feedback.

There is a possibility for the problem to be external, and the thump is just the subwoofer reacting to some other signal. There is an easy test for this:

To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
Let the subwoofer play for a while and see if the thump shows back up again. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.

Now for some good news. While clearing through some old boxes we have found some parts for the old VA series and could service the unit for you. If you would like for us to look at the system, please complete the attached form and follow the instructions at the top of the form. RMA Request Form.doc 107k .doc file
post #8986 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrallite View Post

My Velodyne DD-10 Plus keeps going into standby mode during regular playback at medium listening levels, even using both RCA inputs with +10db boost from my receiver.

I see some Velodyne subwoofers have an "inactive mode" switch which turns off the standby circuitry. The DD-10 Plus manual discusses "inactive mode" but does not explain how to enable it.

From online reviews I've seen it's apparently possible to set the subwoofer into inactive mode via the Windows Digital Drive Plus application. However, my disc is scratched and I'm unable to get Windows to read the disc. Many companies will host their software online, however on Velodyne's website, they only have links to the manual. Is there any other way to getting this program?

We can provide you with another disc via mail simply PM me your address. Additionally the setting can be adjusted in the onscreen guide by going to the preset settings page, at the bottom you will see Auto on/off mode, here you can toggle from active to inactive to 12 volt trigger. However, regardless of the mode, the subwoofer should not be going into standby while receiving signal. 90% of the time this complaint is associated with the settings of your system, where we think the subwoofer is getting signal but it is actually not getting any signal. Check your settings as follows.

1. On the subwoofer set the cross-over to direct
2. In your processor set the speakers all to small
3. In your processor set the cross-over between 80-120Hz
4. In your processor set the LFE or Sub out to the neutral 0db setting.
5. Using the subwoofer volume adjust the bass mixture to your liking.

Note: The optimal volume range for the DD series subwoofer is between 10-40, you should adjust your LFE output on the processor accordingly to achieve a setting in this optimal volume range. The LFE gain is often best between -5dB and +5dB.

If you have any questions about these settings feel free to call me, if the problem persists try this:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
If the subwoofer plays without going into standby, then the problem is not with the subwoofer. If however the subwoofer goes into standby while playing, then the subwoofer has an issue that needs to be addressed.
Edited by Rob Morse - 5/6/13 at 8:04am
post #8987 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

There is a possibility for the problem to be external, and the thump is just the subwoofer reacting to some other signal. There is an easy test for this:

To test and verify there is a problem with the subwoofer:
1. Connect the left and right outputs of a working CD or DVD player directly to the subwoofer’s inputs using a different cable than you normally use.
2. Turn the cross-over all the way up to 120 and set the volume to 30% volume.
3. Play a CD with some beat
Let the subwoofer play for a while and see if the thump shows back up again. If the same problem persists, the problem is likely in the subwoofer.

Now for some good news. While clearing through some old boxes we have found some parts for the old VA series and could service the unit for you. If you would like for us to look at the system, please complete the attached form and follow the instructions at the top of the form. RMA Request Form.doc 107k .doc file

Thanks, Rob. What about just running the sub woofer with nothing connected to its input, as the tech guy has suggested?

I guess I'll see if he finds the problem, and if not (based on his testing) then I'll get the sub back and try your test. This may take a few days, so once complete, I'll contact you again to see if I can still send it to you for repair.

Thanks,
post #8988 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post

Thanks, Rob. What about just running the sub woofer with nothing connected to its input, as the tech guy has suggested?

I guess I'll see if he finds the problem, and if not (based on his testing) then I'll get the sub back and try your test. This may take a few days, so once complete, I'll contact you again to see if I can still send it to you for repair.

Thanks,

Leaving the subwoofer on without any input is not as effective as connecting the subwoofer to an active source as there is no load on the amplifier. Depending upon what the issue is the subwoofer may not react, leading the tech to conclude the problem is in the AVR when it could still be in the subwoofer.
post #8989 of 9547
I've never owned a subwoofer and currently only using a pair of B&W 685s.

The BIC PL-200 seems like a great deal at this point, but how does it compare with the Velodyne EQ-Max 15 Inch Subwoofer?

The BIC PL-200 can be had probably for $300 if you make an offer to AcousticSoundDesign on eBay and the Velodyne EQ-Max 15 inch subwoofer is currently $749.77 on their website.

I know the Velodyne is much more expensive and has better specs, but just how noticeable will all of that be? 250 Watts RMS Continuous with the BIC PL-200 vs 750 watts RMS Power with the Velodyne:

http://www.bicamerica.com/showpage.php?brand=1&type=8&spkrID=86

http://velodyne.com/eq-max-15.html
Edited by RomanBlade86 - 5/8/13 at 3:47am
post #8990 of 9547
Just got my Velodyne DD-12 sub, trying to configure it with Denon 5803 receiver and having difficulties choosing what calibration to use.
I've tried running Velodyne calibration (PLUS) playing the test CD but the receiver has its own calibration (Audyssey), so it looks like they are fighting each other.
If I calibrate the sub first, the level is set to 01 on the sub, then Audyssey bumps it up to 10db and detects it at 22 ft (it's about 11ft from the best listening position).
The quick start guide suggests setting speakers to small, crossover to 80Hz and level at 0db, then running the sub calibration.
This would mess up my Audyssey settings though, since my main speakers are more than capable reproducing low frequencies as well.
The Audyssey sets crossover for surround speakers to 150Hz and about 40Hz for main speakers, but in either case I don't feel like I'm getting this right.
I could try defeating EQ and setting the volume with a sound meter, but I'm not taking advantage of EQ on the sub then.
Is there an official config guide for Audyssey-capable receivers ?

thanks
post #8991 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanBlade86 View Post

I've never owned a subwoofer and currently only using a pair of B&W 685s.

The BIC PL-200 seems like a great deal at this point, but how does it compare with the Velodyne EQ-Max 15 Inch Subwoofer?

The BIC PL-200 can be had probably for $300 if you make an offer to AcousticSoundDesign on eBay and the Velodyne EQ-Max 15 inch subwoofer is currently $749.77 on their website.

I know the Velodyne is much more expensive and has better specs, but just how noticeable will all of that be? 250 Watts RMS Continuous with the BIC PL-200 vs 750 watts RMS Power with the Velodyne:

http://www.bicamerica.com/showpage.php?brand=1&type=8&spkrID=86

http://velodyne.com/eq-max-15.html

I unfortunately can't say I have ever compared the BIC to the Velodyne so I can not comment to that. Comparing the specifications of the BIC, you could get a comparable Velodyne for about the same money. The VDR-12 has virtually the same specifications as the PL-200 and would not be as large as the EQ-max 15. The VDR-12 sells for $399 on our Ebay store . Though for a limited time you can get two VDR-12 for $499 from our website Velodyne.com

The EQ-Max series will perform very similar to the VDR as they share alot of technology. The EQ-max will offer the 5 band room equalization and in the case of the 15 subwoofer a larger driver and amplifier.

If you are looking for an upgrade in performance and are willing to spend in the neighborhood of the EQ-max's price range, then I would direct you to the Photon 10 subwoofer available on our Ebay store for $699. The Photon 10 carried our Chrysalis badge, which was sold through a different distribution network, but aside from cosmetics is identical to the revered Velodyne MiniVee 10.
post #8992 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by sergiyz View Post

Just got my Velodyne DD-12 sub, trying to configure it with Denon 5803 receiver and having difficulties choosing what calibration to use.
I've tried running Velodyne calibration (PLUS) playing the test CD but the receiver has its own calibration (Audyssey), so it looks like they are fighting each other.
If I calibrate the sub first, the level is set to 01 on the sub, then Audyssey bumps it up to 10db and detects it at 22 ft (it's about 11ft from the best listening position).
The quick start guide suggests setting speakers to small, crossover to 80Hz and level at 0db, then running the sub calibration.
This would mess up my Audyssey settings though, since my main speakers are more than capable reproducing low frequencies as well.
The Audyssey sets crossover for surround speakers to 150Hz and about 40Hz for main speakers, but in either case I don't feel like I'm getting this right.
I could try defeating EQ and setting the volume with a sound meter, but I'm not taking advantage of EQ on the sub then.
Is there an official config guide for Audyssey-capable receivers ?

thanks

The first thing we need to understand what a crossover does. A crossover is not a cut off, setting it at 80 Hz does not prevent your speakers from playing frequencies below 80Hz, it only rolls off the signal. The typicall 12dB per octave slope will still send frequencies down into that 40Hz range, and while your speakers can play that low, they require significant power to provide any punch in that frequency range, this is why a subwoofer is desirable. 80Hz is a good basic starting point, you should experiment to find what sounds best to you.

Audyssey is a nice system over all, but individual taste vary, and there are differences between measured and perceived outputs. It is not uncommon for Audyssey to drop the LFE output extremely low. This is why I recommend folks set up their systems in this manner:

1. Connect and run the calibration on the Digital Drive subwoofer
2. Run the calibration on Audyssey
3. Enter the receiver's menu and make adjustments to the speakers cross-over settings
4. Adjust the reciver's LFE output to between -5 and +5 dB
5. Adjust the subwoofer's volume to your prefered output (optimal settings are between 10-40).

Disclaimer: As with all thing audio your individual equipment, setup, and preferences will affect your results, there is never any one "right" answer and you should always do what sounds best to you. Experimentation will yield the best results, you should always go with what sounds best to you and not what someone else's belief of what is correct or not. Feel free to seek advise as a starting point, but at the end of the day it is your system and your the one who will be listening to it. All that matters is that you enjoy your sound system.
post #8993 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by sergiyz View Post

Just got my Velodyne DD-12 sub, trying to configure it with Denon 5803 receiver and having difficulties choosing what calibration to use.
I've tried running Velodyne calibration (PLUS) playing the test CD but the receiver has its own calibration (Audyssey), so it looks like they are fighting each other.
If I calibrate the sub first, the level is set to 01 on the sub, then Audyssey bumps it up to 10db and detects it at 22 ft (it's about 11ft from the best listening position).
The quick start guide suggests setting speakers to small, crossover to 80Hz and level at 0db, then running the sub calibration.
This would mess up my Audyssey settings though, since my main speakers are more than capable reproducing low frequencies as well.
The Audyssey sets crossover for surround speakers to 150Hz and about 40Hz for main speakers, but in either case I don't feel like I'm getting this right.
I could try defeating EQ and setting the volume with a sound meter, but I'm not taking advantage of EQ on the sub then.
Is there an official config guide for Audyssey-capable receivers ?

thanks

THere is great stuff about Audyssey on the Audyssey thread in the receivers and amps area. Well worth wandering over there. A guide and FAQ are linked there. You'll find what you need.

The autosetup procedure doesn't use a tape measure to set distances. It emits a signal, and the processor patiently waits a few thousand cycles for the sound to hit the mic a fraction of a second later. Using a powered sub, you have not only the time that is required for the sound to travel from the speaker to the mic, you also have delays within the sub itself as it performs whatever processing it does. The longer "distance" setting reflects the longer time required for the signal to work its way from input to microphone. IOW, the longer "distance" settings are common and correct.

If you're talking about using a setup process that's for/within the Velo, the usual advice would be to do that first, then run Audyssey. Gives Audyssey a flatter starting place so it could result in improved oversll results.
FWIW, Audyssey doesn't set the crossovers (and if they did, they'd do it differently). Instead the receiver manufacturers use the F3 point reported by Audyssey to set the crossover they think is correct. The usual advice is to raise crossovers, often to 80 Hz, especially with Audyssey varieties below XT32, because it puts more of the troublesome bass frequencies within Audyssey's subwoofer correction, which has substantially more correction power than is available for the mains, etc.
post #8994 of 9547
Thanks to everybody who responded !

I've found some useful info here:
https://audyssey.zendesk.com/entries/76175-Subwoofer-setup-and-MultEQ

But it's not clear how I can run the calibration on DD-12 first if the receiver is in the path for that calibration, at least for the recommended
Plus calibration that relies on test tones being played from the CD.
Should I disable or reset audyssey on the receiver, or rely on internal DD-12 tones instead to take the receiver out of the path completely ?
The internal test is not quite as good though according to the manual.
I did find the part about the distance that actually measures the delay, so it's clear now.
post #8995 of 9547
I have a Velodyne F-1500B with a bad amp. When I turn the subwoofer on, the subwoofer makes a humming noise and the speaker is pushed out as far as it can. It does this even when nothing is connected to it and with the volume low. Will replacing the STK4040 II resolve this issue? I've heard that it could also be an issue with capacitors. If so, does any one know any components I can replace to fix this issue. Estimate to fix this amp is close to $300, just as much as it cost me to buy this subwoofer.

Thanks.
post #8996 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by shwing2345 View Post

I have a Velodyne F-1500B with a bad amp. When I turn the subwoofer on, the subwoofer makes a humming noise and the speaker is pushed out as far as it can. It does this even when nothing is connected to it and with the volume low. Will replacing the STK4040 II resolve this issue? I've heard that it could also be an issue with capacitors. If so, does any one know any components I can replace to fix this issue. Estimate to fix this amp is close to $300, just as much as it cost me to buy this subwoofer.

Thanks.

I am sorry to report that in all likely hood the issue would not be resolved by replacing the STK4040. The fact that the driver is jumping out to full excursion is an indication that the accelerometer / servo has failed. Unfortunately replacement driver assemblies for this subwoofer are no longer available to us.
post #8997 of 9547
Hi,
I have just recently purchased (yet to pickup) a second hand CHT-10Q subwoofer but the owner seems to have misplaced the remote control. Is the remote absolutely required to get the best setup from the subwoofer? Are some functions only controllable from the remote? Where can I get a replacement remote? I am in Melbourne, Australia btw. Thanks for your help.
post #8998 of 9547
Rob, any recommendations on EQ and setup for two DD15s? They are daisy-chained right now, connected to the Sub output, but my Bryston SP3 processor can also run them in stereo. (FYI, the rest of the gear is noted below my signature.)

Where would you recommend setting crossovers?

Speakers' claimed frequency responses:

DD15 subs - 15Hz to 120Hz ± 3db
Paradigm Reference Signature S8 FL/FR - 40Hz to 20kHz ± 2db
Paradigm Reference Signature C5 Center - 43Hz to 20kHz ± 2db
Paradigm Reference Signature ADP LS/RS - 82Hz to 20kHz ± 2db
Paradigm Reference Signature S4 LR/RR - 56Hz to 20kHz ± 2db

Here's a rough photo of the layout:



Thanks very much for your expertise and generous advice, Rob. I've been using Velodynes since the ULD-15 and have been delighted with your products and service.

RJ
post #8999 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkster View Post

Hi,
I have just recently purchased (yet to pickup) a second hand CHT-10Q subwoofer but the owner seems to have misplaced the remote control. Is the remote absolutely required to get the best setup from the subwoofer? Are some functions only controllable from the remote? Where can I get a replacement remote? I am in Melbourne, Australia btw. Thanks for your help.

The remote control is needed to run the equalization, adjust phase, and adjust the DSP setting. The volume can be controlled from either the back of the unit or via remote. Remotes are available directly from Velodyne for $30 US, plus shipping. If you are interested please complete and return the attached form referencing part number 79-018. Parts Order Form.doc 50k .doc file
post #9000 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoThere View Post

Rob, any recommendations on EQ and setup for two DD15s? They are daisy-chained right now, connected to the Sub output, but my Bryston SP3 processor can also run them in stereo. (FYI, the rest of the gear is noted below my signature.)

Where would you recommend setting crossovers?

Speakers' claimed frequency responses:

DD15 subs - 15Hz to 120Hz ± 3db
Paradigm Reference Signature S8 FL/FR - 40Hz to 20kHz ± 2db
Paradigm Reference Signature C5 Center - 43Hz to 20kHz ± 2db
Paradigm Reference Signature ADP LS/RS - 82Hz to 20kHz ± 2db
Paradigm Reference Signature S4 LR/RR - 56Hz to 20kHz ± 2db

Here's a rough photo of the layout:



Thanks very much for your expertise and generous advice, Rob. I've been using Velodynes since the ULD-15 and have been delighted with your products and service.

RJ

There are several ways to run the equalization and set up your system, as always your individual preference and set up will dictate your final settings. Having said that I can tell you how I have my system set up as a starting point as I run dual DD10 plus subwoofers with tower speakers that play down to 35Hz and a Center with specs similar to your own.

1. Once you have chosen where you will place the subwoofers, run self EQ on each subwoofer independently.
2. Run any equalization / set up in your AVR.
3. Go in to your AVR's configuration menu and set your speakers all to small, restore the LFE output to the neutral 0dB output, then set your crossover point. In my case I run 80Hz on the front and rear, and started there on the center but later raised it to 100Hz and have been very pleased with the results. Given your specs, I would suspect that 80-100Hz will be good starting point for your fronts and center, 90-120 Hz for your rear, and 100-140Hz for your surrounds.
4. Connect the two subwoofers in the master / slave configuration then run the full manual equalization, making adjustments to the master subwoofer.

When you run the manual equalization on the subwoofers, once you have your sweeptone playing through the whole system, mute the subwoofers. The graph you will see on screen is just that of your system speakers, adjust the AVR volume so the average signal strength is in the low to mid 70dB range. Once you have done this unmute the subwoofers and adjust their volume so that it roughly matches that of the AVR. Now you can adjust the EQ points.

Note the sweet spot of the DD amplifier is between 10-40 on the volume scale, while I advise starting the AVR's LFE output at 0dB, you should feel free to adjust it up or down to reach the desired volume range on the subwoofer. Also remember this is your system and your ears have to listen to it. If after adjusting things flat, you do not like the sound, feel free to adjust and tweek. I personally run my subwoofoers about 6dB hotter than flat because that is what I like.

Disclaimer: As with all thing audio your individual equipment, setup, and preferences will affect your results, there is never any one "right" answer and you should always do what sounds best to you. Experimentation will yield the best results, you should always go with what sounds best to you and not what someone else's belief of what is correct or not. Feel free to seek advise as a starting point, but at the end of the day it is your system and your the one who will be listening to it. All that matters is that you enjoy your sound system.
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