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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 304

post #9091 of 9547
Rob can you explain what does changing the settings for the different subs (SC10, SC12, ceiling or floor sub when they are both the same 12" cabinet) on the SC-1250 amp please?
Im curious when all the 12" are the same driver and the IC/IF is one cabinet but there are two different settings on the amp for the same thing)
post #9092 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Rob can you explain what does changing the settings for the different subs (SC10, SC12, ceiling or floor sub when they are both the same 12" cabinet) on the SC-1250 amp please?
Im curious when all the 12" are the same driver and the IC/IF is one cabinet but there are two different settings on the amp for the same thing)
Adjusting the setting on the amplifier adjusts the calibration gain compression on the amplifier to help limit distortion at the top end. This is based on the individual subwoofer assembly. I would need to double check if there is any difference between the SC-12 and the IF/IC or if the labeling was user interface done to make it easier for the consumer. The SC-10 would be a different driver and cabinet with its own settings.
post #9093 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

Adjusting the setting on the amplifier adjusts the calibration gain compression on the amplifier to help limit distortion at the top end. This is based on the individual subwoofer assembly. I would need to double check if there is any difference between the SC-12 and the IF/IC or if the labeling was user interface done to make it easier for the consumer. The SC-10 would be a different driver and cabinet with its own settings.

Thank you Rob I do understand that. Can you find out what difference is there then between the three different settings for the SC-12 setting, IC setting and IF setting, there are three different ones yet they all have the same driver. I cant understand why there would be two separate ones for the IC and IF when its the same driver and box???
post #9094 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Thank you Rob I do understand that. Can you find out what difference is there then between the three different settings for the SC-12 setting, IC setting and IF setting, there are three different ones yet they all have the same driver. I cant understand why there would be two separate ones for the IC and IF when its the same driver and box???
They are the same, they are just put that way given limited character space and for easier use by the consumer. If we only put IC, sales feared someone installing the unit as an in floor driver would not be able to figure out what to do. So we made the product for the lowest common denominator
post #9095 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

They are the same, they are just put that way given limited character space and for easier use by the consumer. If we only put IC, sales feared someone installing the unit as an in floor driver would not be able to figure out what to do. So we made the product for the lowest common denominator

Thanks Rob, and is it the same for the SC-12 too?
e.g. (the three are the same)
post #9096 of 9547
Rob.. I'm planning on running two totally different subs to my current dual def tech reference. And the subs I'm thinking of getting would go lower then the reference. Now I know in order to set the subsonic filters for each pair of subs I would need another SMS-1. So do I run the two sms-1 as master and slave. Or ru them independently?
post #9097 of 9547
Hey Rob. I'm sure that you probably have answered this question before; but, my searches are coming up empty. Could you please tell me how low the DD-18 can play. I know it has a Subsonic Filter of 15Hz. I was just wondering if it could actually play lower than the 15Hz. I understand that playing below 15Hz may have more distortion; but, I was just wondering what is the true lowest frequency the DD-18 could play.
post #9098 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

Thanks Rob, and is it the same for the SC-12 too?
e.g. (the three are the same)
Yes
post #9099 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

Rob.. I'm planning on running two totally different subs to my current dual def tech reference. And the subs I'm thinking of getting would go lower then the reference. Now I know in order to set the subsonic filters for each pair of subs I would need another SMS-1. So do I run the two sms-1 as master and slave. Or ru them independently?
You would need to set each unit up individually. After the units are set you could put them into the master/slave configuration which will cause the master to repeat remote commands to the second unit. However if the two units are going to be stacked upon one another, then they should both receive the same remote commands anyway. If the units are not going to stacked then the master/slave setting may be desirable to ensure they stay synced.
post #9100 of 9547
Hi Rob,

I picked up a Velodyne DPS-12 12" Powered Subwoofer on a steal and found out why: The board is fried.

I'm wondering if there are replacement parts available (It powers up but nothing happens. There are some burn marks on the board. I hear this is a fairly common problem for this model.) or if someone has created a work around, say a part list for an amp and board, that I could just build the guts using the box and the Sub as a home-made project?

I'd hate to have to just ditch the thing. It sounds like it was a good system when it worked.

SweetDoug
post #9101 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetDoug View Post

Hi Rob,

I picked up a Velodyne DPS-12 12" Powered Subwoofer on a steal and found out why: The board is fried.

I'm wondering if there are replacement parts available (It powers up but nothing happens. There are some burn marks on the board. I hear this is a fairly common problem for this model.) or if someone has created a work around, say a part list for an amp and board, that I could just build the guts using the box and the Sub as a home-made project?

I'd hate to have to just ditch the thing. It sounds like it was a good system when it worked.

SweetDoug

The electronics pack could be removed and sent in for a rebuild or you can purchase a replacement electronics pack, either way you are looking between $190-$220 depending upon the path. The reality is right now you could get a refurbished VDR-12 for $249 on our website. the VDR-12 is based on the same platform, but utilized a remote control instead of the touchpad to control the subwoofer.
post #9102 of 9547
Hi Rob,

I was really interested in the EQ-Max 15, it looks like it is no longer being made.

Does it have a direct replacement?

Thanks
post #9103 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarcmantis View Post

Hi Rob,

I was really interested in the EQ-Max 15, it looks like it is no longer being made.

Does it have a direct replacement?

Thanks

There are still some units available directly from Velodyne, however the EQ-Max has been discontinued due to a lack of interest in 15 inch subwoofers. There will be no replacement for the EQ-Max 15.
post #9104 of 9547
Do you have a link?

Should I just call and ask?

http://velodyne.com/subwoofers/eq-max-series/eq-max-15.html

Thanks Rob
post #9105 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarcmantis View Post

Do you have a link?

Should I just call and ask?

http://velodyne.com/subwoofers/eq-max-series/eq-max-15.html

Thanks Rob

It turns out the inventory we have on hand is already spoken for, the only stock available of EQ-max 15 are factory refurbished models sold through our E-bay store
post #9106 of 9547
My venerable ULD-15 has recently developed a problem that I'm trying to diagnose. I contacted Morgan Hill and was told they can't directly help me but they were kind enough to provide me service guides and schematics which I'm trying to use to logically deduce the problem. Here's what the subwoofer has started doing:

Without any input, the speaker cone is emanating a high-pitched tone that gets pretty loud. As soon as I *touch* the paper cone, the tone stops. When I take my finger off, it stays quiet for a few moments and then starts up again. It begins quietly (low volume) and rapidly ramps up to a pretty high level. Even when playing source material through it and normal low frequency excursions of the cone result, the high-pitched tone returns superimposed over the low frequency stuff. Again, touching the cone halts that sound.

I've now determined what seems to be triggering this behavior and that is acoustic feedback. In a quiet room with no sound, the subwoofer remains very quiet but just speaking near the speaker starts up the pitched tone. Thumping the cone with your finger can too.

So, the speaker is acting as a microphone and sending something back into the amp that gets into an amplification loop. This tone does not occur if the accelerometer feedback cable is unplugged from the woofer. One more thing; the speaker is most sensitive to sounds that trigger this when placed near a wall and much less so in the middle of the room.

Has this behavior ever been seen before and if so what component failure is likely to be source? If I'm the first to experience this, what does this description make you most suspicious of?

Many thanks!
Jonathan
post #9107 of 9547
Dear Rob,


I recently bought a Velodyne 18DD+ sub. I am truly amazed by its performance but i do have a question regarding the "active" position in the menu. I use a Bryston SP3 as a surround processor and all my connections are balanced. When i play a movie or cd the sub never switches on automatically although it is configured through the windows setup to be in active mode. I have to use the remote to switch it on after witch it plays perfectly. After approx. 10 minutes of no signal it does switch off by itself. I have been going through all possible options to find out the problem, but i am unable to find it. Please shed some light on the subject for me,...

Thanks,

P


(My system :Bryston SP3 Surround Processor, I run 2 Bryston 28BSST's for my front speakers (B&W 801D) a Bryston 4BSST for my front speaker (B&W HTM2 Diamond) a Bryston 9BSST to run my 4 surround speakers (B&W SCMS) and a Velodyne Digital Drive PLUS 18 Inch Subwoofer.)
post #9108 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purpleloft View Post

Dear Rob,


I recently bought a Velodyne 18DD+ sub. I am truly amazed by its performance but i do have a question regarding the "active" position in the menu. I use a Bryston SP3 as a surround processor and all my connections are balanced. When i play a movie or cd the sub never switches on automatically although it is configured through the windows setup to be in active mode. I have to use the remote to switch it on after witch it plays perfectly. After approx. 10 minutes of no signal it does switch off by itself. I have been going through all possible options to find out the problem, but i am unable to find it. Please shed some light on the subject for me,...


It sounds like the signal coming into the subwoofer is not loud enough to trigger the subwoofer to activate. You might want to increase the sub output from your Bryston or try using a Y cable adapter into the DD18 to increase the perceived input signal.
post #9109 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeburnett View Post

My venerable ULD-15 has recently developed a problem that I'm trying to diagnose. I contacted Morgan Hill and was told they can't directly help me but they were kind enough to provide me service guides and schematics which I'm trying to use to logically deduce the problem. Here's what the subwoofer has started doing:

Without any input, the speaker cone is emanating a high-pitched tone that gets pretty loud. As soon as I *touch* the paper cone, the tone stops. When I take my finger off, it stays quiet for a few moments and then starts up again. It begins quietly (low volume) and rapidly ramps up to a pretty high level. Even when playing source material through it and normal low frequency excursions of the cone result, the high-pitched tone returns superimposed over the low frequency stuff. Again, touching the cone halts that sound.

I've now determined what seems to be triggering this behavior and that is acoustic feedback. In a quiet room with no sound, the subwoofer remains very quiet but just speaking near the speaker starts up the pitched tone. Thumping the cone with your finger can too.

So, the speaker is acting as a microphone and sending something back into the amp that gets into an amplification loop. This tone does not occur if the accelerometer feedback cable is unplugged from the woofer. One more thing; the speaker is most sensitive to sounds that trigger this when placed near a wall and much less so in the middle of the room.

Has this behavior ever been seen before and if so what component failure is likely to be source? If I'm the first to experience this, what does this description make you most suspicious of?

Many thanks!
Jonathan

What you are describing sounds like what we call a ringing driver. This can occur over time as the speaker ages and breaks down. It is possible occasionally to limit the ringing for a while by adjusting the servo feedback circuit, something that needs to be done by a trained tech, but sadly this is a terminal condition and the end of life is in sight. Even with a servo adjustment the ringing will still be present (though reduced) and will gradually get worse and worse. I am sorry.
post #9110 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purpleloft View Post

Dear Rob,


I recently bought a Velodyne 18DD+ sub. I am truly amazed by its performance but i do have a question regarding the "active" position in the menu. I use a Bryston SP3 as a surround processor and all my connections are balanced. When i play a movie or cd the sub never switches on automatically although it is configured through the windows setup to be in active mode. I have to use the remote to switch it on after witch it plays perfectly. After approx. 10 minutes of no signal it does switch off by itself. I have been going through all possible options to find out the problem, but i am unable to find it. Please shed some light on the subject for me,...

Thanks,

P


(My system :Bryston SP3 Surround Processor, I run 2 Bryston 28BSST's for my front speakers (B&W 801D) a Bryston 4BSST for my front speaker (B&W HTM2 Diamond) a Bryston 9BSST to run my 4 surround speakers (B&W SCMS) and a Velodyne Digital Drive PLUS 18 Inch Subwoofer.)

There are a few questions that will assist me in providing you with an answer:
Is your unit a 117 volt or 230 volt system?
How is your subwoofer connected to the processor?
What are the main speaker settings in the processor? (large / small)
What is your crossover setting at in the subwoofer and processor?
What is the LFE gain setting in the processor?
What is the subwoofer volume set to?
Are you powering down the subwoofer with your remote control?
post #9111 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

There are a few questions that will assist me in providing you with an answer:
Is your unit a 117 volt or 230 volt system? 230 volts
How is your subwoofer connected to the processor? Audioquest balanced
What are the main speaker settings in the processor? (large / small) Large
What is your crossover setting at in the subwoofer and processor? 40hz
What is the LFE gain setting in the processor? 0
What is the subwoofer volume set to? 32
Are you powering down the subwoofer with your remote control? No
post #9112 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purpleloft View Post


The main issue is likely the amount of signal being sent to the subwoofer. When you set your main speakers to Large, this limits how much bass is sent to the subwoofer. Any source without a dedicated LFE track (ie most music) will have very little information going to the subwoofer. Depending on your processor, it may not even send bass to the subwoofer, or it may only send frequencies below 40Hz. Given a standard 12dB / Octave slope, we typically recommend setting the speakers to small and the crossover between 70-100 Hz for most full range tower speakers. This will allow a good amount of bass to the sub, free up headroom in the system amplifier, and still allow good bass extension in the main speakers down to the 40Hz range.
post #9113 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purpleloft View Post

Dear Rob,


I recently bought a Velodyne 18DD+ sub. I am truly amazed by its performance but i do have a question regarding the "active" position in the menu. I use a Bryston SP3 as a surround processor and all my connections are balanced. When i play a movie or cd the sub never switches on automatically although it is configured through the windows setup to be in active mode. I have to use the remote to switch it on after witch it plays perfectly. After approx. 10 minutes of no signal it does switch off by itself. I have been going through all possible options to find out the problem, but i am unable to find it. Please shed some light on the subject for me,...

Thanks,

P


(My system :Bryston SP3 Surround Processor, I run 2 Bryston 28BSST's for my front speakers (B&W 801D) a Bryston 4BSST for my front speaker (B&W HTM2 Diamond) a Bryston 9BSST to run my 4 surround speakers (B&W SCMS) and a Velodyne Digital Drive PLUS 18 Inch Subwoofer.)
Nice setup I'm jealous!
post #9114 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The main issue is likely the amount of signal being sent to the subwoofer. When you set your main speakers to Large, this limits how much bass is sent to the subwoofer. Any source without a dedicated LFE track (ie most music) will have very little information going to the subwoofer. Depending on your processor, it may not even send bass to the subwoofer, or it may only send frequencies below 40Hz. Given a standard 12dB / Octave slope, we typically recommend setting the speakers to small and the crossover between 70-100 Hz for most full range tower speakers. This will allow a good amount of bass to the sub, free up headroom in the system amplifier, and still allow good bass extension in the main speakers down to the 40Hz range.
How do set the crossover between 70-100Hz and the speakers still play down to the 40Hz range at the same time? Am I missing something?
post #9115 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

The main issue is likely the amount of signal being sent to the subwoofer. When you set your main speakers to Large, this limits how much bass is sent to the subwoofer. Any source without a dedicated LFE track (ie most music) will have very little information going to the subwoofer. Depending on your processor, it may not even send bass to the subwoofer, or it may only send frequencies below 40Hz. Given a standard 12dB / Octave slope, we typically recommend setting the speakers to small and the crossover between 70-100 Hz for most full range tower speakers. This will allow a good amount of bass to the sub, free up headroom in the system amplifier, and still allow good bass extension in the main speakers down to the 40Hz range.

Dear Rob,

Thank you for your reply. Since my mains can handle a signal down to 29hz (The B&W801D has a 15" woofer, fed by the Bryston 28BSST), i also don't want to waste that opportunity by cutting off that frequency and sending it all to the Velodyne sub by setting the main speakers to small. I would like to keep my Front speakers in the Large position to spread out the base and let the sub handle the extreme lows. In fact, i am getting just that right now, the sound is amazing, spreading of bass is great, the Velodyne adds the necessary depth when it is required, the only problem is that the sub does not switch on automatically. The weird thing is, after i switch it on there is a lot of information send to the sub (the room literally starts shaking)...it just does not do it automatically.

(To make sure, i did try to set the mains to small and crossover to 80hz...result was a loss of dynamic in the fronts and still no automatic powering on of the sub...)

P
post #9116 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by kemiza View Post

How do set the crossover between 70-100Hz and the speakers still play down to the 40Hz range at the same time? Am I missing something?
Crossovers are not cut filters, they do not cut off frequencies below and above the set point. Rather, depending upon the slope, they roll off frequencies above and below that point. Assuming a 12dB per octave slope, a crossover set at 80Hz, would be 12dB down at roughly 40Hz.
post #9117 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purpleloft View Post

Dear Rob,

Thank you for your reply. Since my mains can handle a signal down to 29hz (The B&W801D has a 15" woofer, fed by the Bryston 28BSST), i also don't want to waste that opportunity by cutting off that frequency and sending it all to the Velodyne sub by setting the main speakers to small. I would like to keep my Front speakers in the Large position to spread out the base and let the sub handle the extreme lows. In fact, i am getting just that right now, the sound is amazing, spreading of bass is great, the Velodyne adds the necessary depth when it is required, the only problem is that the sub does not switch on automatically. The weird thing is, after i switch it on there is a lot of information send to the sub (the room literally starts shaking)...it just does not do it automatically.

(To make sure, i did try to set the mains to small and crossover to 80hz...result was a loss of dynamic in the fronts and still no automatic powering on of the sub...)

P

I had a system once that had a similar problem with the soundstage collapsing when I put the main speakers to small. The solution for me was to connect the subwoofer in series with the mains with speaker wire, then set the processor to large speakers and the subwoofer set to none. This routed all LFE information into the main speaker channels which were connected to the subwoofer. The drawback to placing the subwoofer in series with the main speakers is you engage the fixed high pass filter.

Fortunately in the case of the DDplus you can connect both speaker wire and line level connections without causing issues. You could try connecting the subwoofer via speaker wire in parallel to your mains while leaving the LFE connected. This may help provide that additional signal to trigger the sub to come on.
post #9118 of 9547
So Rob, you're basically saying that the paper cone and voice coil accordion elements are worn out and aren't stiff enough to resist harmonic vibrations. Do I have that right? Couldn't this be rebuilt? Baring that possibility, which current Velodyne model would best replace my ULD-15?

Thank you,
Jonathan
post #9119 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Morse View Post

I had a system once that had a similar problem with the soundstage collapsing when I put the main speakers to small. The solution for me was to connect the subwoofer in series with the mains with speaker wire, then set the processor to large speakers and the subwoofer set to none. This routed all LFE information into the main speaker channels which were connected to the subwoofer. The drawback to placing the subwoofer in series with the main speakers is you engage the fixed high pass filter.

Fortunately in the case of the DDplus you can connect both speaker wire and line level connections without causing issues. You could try connecting the subwoofer via speaker wire in parallel to your mains while leaving the LFE connected. This may help provide that additional signal to trigger the sub to come on.

Thank you for giving me another solution to my problem. Since then the people from Elegant Music Graden (Guangzhou, China) came to my house to confront the problem. Their solution was to connect the sub with a 12 volt trigger. They actually installed the 12 volt trigger in my whole system and now the whole rack + sub switches on just using the remote of my SP3. Their service has been excellent throughout, they even brought a spare 18DD+, just in case. The only problem we have is communication, i am from Belgium and speak some mandarin but not proficient enough to explain HT problems, and that is partly why i asked for your help too.

Thanks again for the effort you made to help me !

P
post #9120 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeburnett View Post

So Rob, you're basically saying that the paper cone and voice coil accordion elements are worn out and aren't stiff enough to resist harmonic vibrations. Do I have that right? Couldn't this be rebuilt? Baring that possibility, which current Velodyne model would best replace my ULD-15?

Thank you,
Jonathan

We do not have the ability to rebuild this driver, you might be able to find someone willing to try, though I have not heard of any success stories.

The ULD was our flagship servo controlled subwoofer in its day, today's is the Digital Drive plus. You can find some deals on the original Digital Drive series as well as The Digital Drive plus on our Ebay store or you can check with your local Velodyne dealer for non-refurbished stock. Other subwoofer's to look at would be the Optimum series subwoofers or the Subcontractor series.
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