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* Offical Velodyne Support Thread * - Page 317

post #9481 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff at Velodyne View Post

The subwoofer output of the Behringer Crossover What level is it set at? What volume level do you have set on the Velodyne Impact 10?


Regards,

Jeff Davis

Velodyne Support

Vel Sub gain/Xover is turned all the way up. Behringer 80-90 xover/Gain 10 o'clock.
post #9482 of 9547
Is Velodyne going out of business?

Does anyone now what is up with this company?
post #9483 of 9547
You could call or email Velodyne.
post #9484 of 9547

I have the velodyne dps 10, owned it for over 3 years and loved it. I just recently relocated to another state. I hooked everything up exactly how I had it before, and now there is no sound coming from the sub, other than that low humming sound for having the sub volume on high. I am using the LFE/input connection to my preout on the receiver. I tried doing the sound test on my receiver and all my speakers is working right except for the subs. Is it possible my sub is bad?

 

Receiver: Onkyo TX-sr503

 

Bhee

post #9485 of 9547
I have a question about the driver in the Velodyne HGS-18
Mine has stopped playing, as I wrote earlier in this thread.
I found that the 6 1000uf caps on the plate amp were all toast.
I ordered new ones and replaced them.
It played for 2 days afterwards, then the violent thrusting of the driver started again, and since then, no sound at all.

When I use an ohm meter across the actual speaker leads that connect to the amp, I measure an open circuit (while they are disconnected from the amp).
I was expecting to anything between 4-8 ohms.

Can anyone tell me if I should be able to measure this driver with an ohm meter?

Should I read "OPEN" when I meter between the 2 driver leads?
post #9486 of 9547
Hi Experts,

I will receive my DD15 + today. I have a Arcam AVR600 with integrated Audyssey calibration. I wonder what is the best way to calibrate the DD+ 15 with my current System. Is Audyssey changing anything in regards BASS EQ? The normal speaker will be changed by the Audyssey in regards the EQ. Is this also with the Subwoofer?

Options:

1.) Calibrate with Audyssey all speakers and do afterwards with the Auto EQ with the Velodyne and don't use the EQ Option of the Arcam AVR600
2.) Calibrate with Audyssey all speakers and do afterwards with the Auto EQ with the Velodyne and use use the EQ Option of the Arcam AVR600
3.) Calibrate with Audyssey all speakers without the Subwoofer and do Auto EQ with the Velodyne

etc….

What is the best option to integrate the Velodyne with my System?

Thanks
S.
post #9487 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepardos View Post

Hi Experts,

I will receive my DD15 + today. I have a Arcam AVR600 with integrated Audyssey calibration. I wonder what is the best way to calibrate the DD+ 15 with my current System. Is Audyssey changing anything in regards BASS EQ? The normal speaker will be changed by the Audyssey in regards the EQ. Is this also with the Subwoofer?

Options:
1.) Calibrate with Audyssey all speakers and do afterwards with the Auto EQ with the Velodyne and don't use the EQ Option of the Arcam AVR600
2.) Calibrate with Audyssey all speakers and do afterwards with the Auto EQ with the Velodyne and use use the EQ Option of the Arcam AVR600
3.) Calibrate with Audyssey all speakers without the Subwoofer and do Auto EQ with the Velodyne
etc….
What is the best option to integrate the Velodyne with my System?
Thanks
S.

Hi.  Are you sure there's Audyssey in that model?  If so, what version (MultEQ, MultEQXT, MUltEQXT32) is it?  I am under the impression that model has a proprietary auto EQ system.  And unfortunately I cannot seem to find an active forum on your model but if you find one, you could post there.  

 

If you use "search this thread" and put "Audyssey" in the searchbox, you'll find several detailed posts pertaining to your question. 

 

But it's hard to say what will yield the best results.  You'd have to try it for yourself.  In conducting such EQ comparisons, it helps if you have measuring gear such as OmniMic or REW so you can quickly and accurately measure results.  There are threads for both of those if you go that route.  

 

I have no idea of the capability of the Arcam proprietary system but IME the higher versions of Audyssey do quite well EQing the sub channel on their own.  So for what it's worth here's what I'd do in your situation.   

 

1. Set up the Velo to do its AutoEQ and disable any EQ in the AVP.  Use the Velo EQ to do a measured sub crawl/haul, i. e., to help me place the sub in a spot that produces reasonably smooth response and especially avoids huge dips (nulls).  The mic goes right where your head normally is and you move the sub around, watching the real-time sweeps on your TV screen. 

 

2. Set all EQ in the Velo to off, no phase, no crossover, etc.

 

3.  Run the AVP AutoEQ . Listen to how it sounds. 

 

4. If you like you could then measure the results by using the Velo AutoEQ system as in step 1, with the AVP EQ system engaged. 

 

5. You could then chose to manually EQ a bit more if needed using the Velo EQ (I don't), but do not try to boost big dips in the low freq response that result from nulls as it is counterproductive.

post #9488 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff at Velodyne View Post


If all that is wrong with your Servo 1200 is that the surround is riped,

It is worthwhile to look at haveing the suround replaced. It is possiable to buy a surround replacement kit on line to do this yourself if your handy.

Or you could have a local speaker repair shop do this kind of work for you. This type of work should not cost that much and you would have no other options to repair this subwoofer.


Jeff Davis

Velodyne Technical Support


Jeff: Thanks,  bought and installed a new foam surround for the speaker. The volume is now far less, by several orders of magnitude, than before. Having said that, it seems to be improving gradually with use (which seems odd, given that the cone moves freely). Might just be my imagination (that it's improving). But is it possible I have installed the servo connection, which I assume is the green 4-wire plug, upside-down? It's got a 90-degree connection; should the wires exiting it face up or down? Thanks-  --Mike Jacoubowsky

post #9489 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Hi.  Are you sure there's Audyssey in that model?  If so, what version (MultEQ, MultEQXT, MUltEQXT32) is it?  I am under the impression that model has a proprietary auto EQ system.  And unfortunately I cannot seem to find an active forum on your model but if you find one, you could post there.  

If you use "search this thread" and put "Audyssey" in the searchbox, you'll find several detailed posts pertaining to your question. 

But it's hard to say what will yield the best results.  You'd have to try it for yourself.  In conducting such EQ comparisons, it helps if you have measuring gear such as OmniMic or REW so you can quickly and accurately measure results.  There are threads for both of those if you go that route.  

I have no idea of the capability of the Arcam proprietary system but IME the higher versions of Audyssey do quite well EQing the sub channel on their own.  So for what it's worth here's what I'd do in your situation.   

1. Set up the Velo to do its AutoEQ and disable any EQ in the AVP.  Use the Velo EQ to do a measured sub crawl/haul, i. e., to help me place the sub in a spot that produces reasonably smooth response and especially avoids huge dips (nulls).  The mic goes right where your head normally is and you move the sub around, watching the real-time sweeps on your TV screen. 

2. Set all EQ in the Velo to off, no phase, no crossover, etc.

3.  Run the AVP AutoEQ . Listen to how it sounds. 

4. If you like you could then measure the results by using the Velo AutoEQ system as in step 1, with the AVP EQ system engaged. 

5. You could then chose to manually EQ a bit more if needed using the Velo EQ (I don't), but do not try to boost big dips in the low freq response that result from nulls as it is counterproductive.

Thanks for the tips. I have done a Auto-EQ without the PC only with the signal CD. Before, I have adjusted the AVR to use 0db and all speakers to small. What is a bit curios is, that the Volume on my Veldoyne DD+ 15 is set to 06! I think 06 is a little bit low but my cheap SPL meter confirmed, that this is the 75db level of the Velodyne.

I need to investigate with the Software but is 06 not a little bit to less for the Velodyne? Should I lower the output of the AVR to -10db to reach at least level 16 on the Veldoyne or is this enough to work properly for the SUB?

Thanks
S.
post #9490 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepardos View Post

Thanks for the tips. I have done a Auto-EQ without the PC only with the signal CD. Before, I have adjusted the AVR to use 0db and all speakers to small. What is a bit curios is, that the Volume on my Veldoyne DD+ 15 is set to 06! I think 06 is a little bit low but my cheap SPL meter confirmed, that this is the 75db level of the Velodyne.
I need to investigate with the Software but is 06 not a little bit to less for the Velodyne? Should I lower the output of the AVR to -10db to reach at least level 16 on the Veldoyne or is this enough to work properly for the SUB?
Thanks
S.

You're welcome.  I put way more effort into room acoustic theory, auto room EQ, subs and bass management than I'd imagined.  

 

As to the Velo internal vol. it's just fine =6, that is my jazz/default reference calibration level with Audyssey in my DenonA100/4311-and I confirmed with Velo CS that it was OK. No need to change anything just for that.  .

 

And BTW you want your AVR sub ch trim set somewhere towards the middle range during AVP autosetup, never maxed at it's upper or lower limit. Also, the dB numbers in the AVR don't exactly correlate with Velo Vol #s so if you were to change the AVR sub ch trim you'd have to recalibrate or dial it in using the SPL meter.

post #9491 of 9547

 

 


Edited by sergeh - 2/20/14 at 6:16am
post #9492 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

You're welcome.  I put way more effort into room acoustic theory, auto room EQ, subs and bass management than I'd imagined.  

As to the Velo internal vol. it's just fine =6, that is my jazz/default reference calibration level with Audyssey in my DenonA100/4311-and I confirmed with Velo CS that it was OK. No need to change anything just for that.  .

And BTW you want your AVR sub ch trim set somewhere towards the middle range during AVP autosetup, never maxed at it's upper or lower limit. Also, the dB numbers in the AVR don't exactly correlate with Velo Vol #s so if you were to change the AVR sub ch trim you'd have to recalibrate or dial it in using the SPL meter.

You mention it also, why the hell is the default for the DD+ always "P3" the "Jazz" setting? How can I change this? Does this means that it will alter the EQ optimized for JAZZ?
post #9493 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepardos View Post
You mention it also, why the hell is the default for the DD+ always "P3" the "Jazz" setting? How can I change this? Does this means that it will alter the EQ optimized for JAZZ?

I have two of the earlier DD10 model but I think the electronics/FW design is similar .   Velo offers several convenient preset modes at the touch of a button, great for folks like me who have a single combined music/HT setup.  They decided to call the most accurate mode, the one with the tightest servo setting and flattest="reference" FR curve "Jazz".  It is the "reference" setting for the sub in that the Vol setting in this mode is what is used for calibration s the AVP sub ch output will accurately produce a reference-level SPL in this mode.  As this mode is most likely to produce accurate/"musical" bass, a natural sounding upright bass, for ex., so they called it "Jazz".  

 

In contrast the Action Movie preset has the sub overall Vol boosted AND a boost to the very low freqs AND the Servo is loosened up so the driver cone is free to move more easily (more floppy, if you will). This provides LOTS of loud rumble and slam maximizing LFE expolosions, etc., at the expense of accuracy.   

 

All that said, each of the presets  is completely customizable to your tast using the internal sub EQ settings.  

 

My subs always turn on with default to the last preset I was listening in.

 

Not sure if I answered your question AND I'm wondering why Velo CS has been absent from the thread for so long.  :confused: 


Edited by SoundofMind - 2/21/14 at 2:47am
post #9494 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post


I'm wondering why Velo CS has been absent from the thread for so long.  confused.gif  

Today is 3 weeks I have waited to hear back from them. (over 2 months I have been wrestling with them.)

Very nice people, terribly run business is my impression.
post #9495 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

I have two of the earlier DD10 model but I think the electronics/FW design is similar .   Velo offers several convenient preset modes at the touch of a button, great for folks like me who have a single combined music/HT setup.  They decided to call the most accurate mode, the one with the tightest servo setting and flattest="reference" FR curve "Jazz".  It is the "reference" setting for the sub in that the Vol setting in this mode is what is used for calibration s the AVP sub ch output will accurately produce a reference-level SPL in this mode.  As this mode is most likely to produce accurate/"musical" bass, a natural sounding upright bass, for ex., so they called it "Jazz".  

In contrast the Action Movie preset has the sub overall Vol boosted AND a boost to the very low freqs AND the Servo is loosened up so the driver cone is free to move more easily (more floppy, if you will). This provides LOTS of loud rumble and slam maximizing LFE expolosions, etc., at the expense of accuracy.   

All that said, each of the presets  is completely customizable to your tast using the internal sub EQ settings.  

My subs always turn on with default to the last preset I was listening in.

Not sure if I answered your question AND I'm wondering why Velo CS has been absent from the thread for so long.  confused.gif  

Ok this was exactly what I was asking. If somebody can tell men now, how to change the default "P3 JAZZ" to the last use or an other Preset, than I'm happy smile.gif
post #9496 of 9547
Hi
If anyone is interested, and has the old HGS-18, one day it could die...like mine did.
Here is a picture of a dead HGS-18 converted to DIY. Its a Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
The Dayton driver has 8 holes, the Velo driver, only had 6.
So I drilled 8 new holes in the mounting flange of the enclosure, and used #10-32 T-Nuts with steel screws to make a good solid mounting. Luckily, all of my drilled holes lines up perfect with the Dayton driver.
The Dayton driver fit perfectly in the enclosure w/o no modifications required.
I am driving it with Behringer iNuke3000DSP amp.
Here is a picture of the now DIY sub.

We will see how it performs compared to how the HGS-18 performed.

post #9497 of 9547
My 2 years and 2 months old DD10+ is dead. When powered, display lids on and stays on, no sound, no remote reactions either. Here the official guarantee time is 2 years, but importer said it is okay to send it for free repair. Sub was used mainly on weekends with movies, not heavy usage. Not very impressed.
post #9498 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Issuj View Post

My 2 years and 2 months old DD10+ is dead. When powered, display lids on and stays on, no sound, no remote reactions either. Here the official guarantee time is 2 years, but importer said it is okay to send it for free repair. Sub was used mainly on weekends with movies, not heavy usage. Not very impressed.
Personally, I think these DD+ series Velodyne's are way overpriced for the performance they offer. And the quality seems to have gone way downhill over the years.
My friend has the DD18+, paid $5000+ for it, and after only 2 years had to have the amp replaced. That is BS. mad.gif
I paid $4000+ for my HGS-18 some years ago.
And if you look at the amps themselves, thay are pretty lame.
I am glad mine died, so I could get real bass from a DIY sub using their enclosure for ~$500.
Velodyne...are u listening

I hate to bash your product in this thread, but the previous poster is just an example of your problems.

I have read many threads with people talking about problems with their Velodyne subs. It's not just me and a few others...its widespread.

Issuj: You could do the same if they don't warranty your repairs.
Its probably the amp like with others again. Take the amp off the back and check the capacitors if you know how to do it.
Hopefully it is not the actual 10" driver which was the case for my 18".
Do you have to pay for shipping yourself?
I would ask for a new 2 year warranty also.
Edited by obxdiver - 2/23/14 at 7:38am
post #9499 of 9547
Yes, it seems that indeed there has been a bit too many problems with Velos. I hope the new amp if that is the problem will be more solid, but I wouldn't bet on it. It is impossible to have a new 2 year warranty which is a shame. Sub should do at least ten years or so IMHO with reasonable hours used. I have to pay shipping to the importer, it is about 38 euros i.e. 53 dollars. Not happy.
post #9500 of 9547



This is the result of the AutoEQ… is this acceptable or what could be done to improve this?

Thanks
S.
post #9501 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepardos View Post




This is the result of the AutoEQ… is this acceptable or what could be done to improve this?

Thanks
S.

I would rescale the sub SPL range from 45-105 dB.  Having this range scaled drastically different makes a huge difference in how the dips and peaks appear compared to the more typical scaling you see.

post #9502 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post

I would rescale the sub SPL range from 45-105 dB.  Having this range scaled drastically different makes a huge difference in how the dips and peaks appear compared to the more typical scaling you see.

I'm a newbie in this topic. How can i do this and what is the Optimum curve?
post #9503 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepardos View Post


I'm a newbie in this topic. How can i do this and what is the Optimum curve?

The goal, in general, is to have your frequency response fall within a +/- 3 dB window.  Although your graph does not look great, you are actually close to a +/- 3 dB plot.  The way you have the SPL scaled makes the graph look worse than it is.  You have a 25 or so dB scale on the Y axis, when 45-105, or 60 dB is more typical, which will make the line appear smoother.

post #9504 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhee View Post

I have the velodyne dps 10, owned it for over 3 years and loved it. I just recently relocated to another state. I hooked everything up exactly how I had it before, and now there is no sound coming from the sub, other than that low humming sound for having the sub volume on high. I am using the LFE/input connection to my preout on the receiver. I tried doing the sound test on my receiver and all my speakers is working right except for the subs. Is it possible my sub is bad?

Receiver: Onkyo TX-sr503

Bhee

It is possiable that in the process of moving you may have broken the ground plane of the inputs to the subwoofer. One of the results of this would be a loud hum from the sub when you try to play the subwoofer.

It is also possiable that the amp section of the sub needs to be serviced. A third possiblity is that you may have a bad cable .

If you have not already try swapping the connection cable that you are using between the Velodyne DPS and the receiver. You may want to try testing the subwoofer by itself.

Connect a source diretly to the input of the DPS subwoofer like a cd/dvd player or Iphone/Ipad. If you still cannot get the subwoofer to play a repair would be need to the amp of some kind.

Where do you live?
post #9505 of 9547
Thanks for responding. Yes I have already swapped cables, but I just went ahead and tried it directly to my iphone using the aux cable to sub's input, still no sound except for that humming sound if i put the sub volume on high. I live at Washington state.
post #9506 of 9547
Last year I lent out my dear old and much-travelled F1000 to a friend ...and recently it returned to me 'dead',no sound (though the green power indicator light still glowed). I pulled the amp and checked the fuse and that looked ok, but I decided to sent the amp off to a Velodyne-approved repair shop anyway. The report from there was that a fuse was blown, and once replaced, the amp did have output, but without the rest of the sub, though couldn't say if everything was OK, or why the fuse blew in the first place, might be trivial, or might be bad accelerometer. They also wanted to replace the old capacitors with new ones. I gave them the go ahead, said I'd keep my fingers crossed. All done for a reasonable price, they sent the amp back, I reassembled it into the sub, and hooked it up with an iPod as input to check it out... and this is what it does now :

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ct3er4znr1umadd/with_music.mp4
(btw it does the same thing when there's no input)

Repair shop says it could be two things: a defective woofer (accelerometer bad) or an air leak either in the cabinet or the surround around the cone of the woofer. If the former , I'm out of luck since the part's not made any more. I am going to check the latter when I find some time this week.

In the meantime, posting here just to see if there are any informed/experienced opinions on this phenomenon....?
post #9507 of 9547
Quote:
Originally Posted by krabapple View Post

Last year I lent out my dear old and much-travelled F1000 to a friend ...and recently it returned to me 'dead',no sound (though the green power indicator light still glowed). I pulled the amp and checked the fuse and that looked ok, but I decided to sent the amp off to a Velodyne-approved repair shop anyway. The report from there was that a fuse was blown, and once replaced, the amp did have output, but without the rest of the sub, though couldn't say if everything was OK, or why the fuse blew in the first place, might be trivial, or might be bad accelerometer. They also wanted to replace the old capacitors with new ones. I gave them the go ahead, said I'd keep my fingers crossed. All done for a reasonable price, they sent the amp back, I reassembled it into the sub, and hooked it up with an iPod as input to check it out... and this is what it does now :

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ct3er4znr1umadd/with_music.mp4
(btw it does the same thing when there's no input)

Repair shop says it could be two things: a defective woofer (accelerometer bad) or an air leak either in the cabinet or the surround around the cone of the woofer. If the former , I'm out of luck since the part's not made any more. I am going to check the latter when I find some time this week.

In the meantime, posting here just to see if there are any informed/experienced opinions on this phenomenon....?

Lol ,I just got on this thread to try and find some help with a velodyne sub I just got that does the same exact thing. As soon as I plug mine in the wall it starts to do the same motion and sounds with not even an RCA cable connected to it. I was thinking it might be because I am using the wrong power cord? The power cord they gave me has three prong holes connecting to the back of the hgs10bg that only has 2 male prongs on the back so I was thinking that was the problem???(other than the difference in holes on the connection of the power cord It has all the proper specs) but now after reading more Iam thinking it's probably the amp? It seems like velodyne amps are not reliable. This is my first one and probably last. hopefully it's any easy fix but it's still a hassle. Anyone out there that had this problem please let us know what's going on .Also where can I get a proper replacement power cord for my hgs10bg ?
post #9508 of 9547
I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the power cord. But it's easy to switch in a different one if that's your theory. Mine is hard-wired into the amp, so it's certainly not the issue for me.

Btw, my sub lasted almost 20 years. I'd call that reliable. If you review what I wrote, the Velodyne-approved repair guy suggested to me that it's either the accelerometer (which is not part of the amp) or an air leak into the cabinet.
Edited by krabapple - 3/2/14 at 12:01am
post #9509 of 9547
I have a CT-100 that I bought used 2 or 3 years ago. Since I've had it, it has always put out low level 'noise', and never shuts off when in auto. Other than that, it works fine, and sounds good playing music. It is loud enough to notice, however, when you enter the room with the stereo off.

I have finally gotten around to take it apart and look at it. I see no obvious leaking capacitors, but I've ordered two replacement filter caps for it anyway.

Is there any way to get a schematic for this unit to do further troubleshooting? The metal plate that the amp is mounted to measures 9.9" square, if that helps in identifying the series...


Thanks,

Ned
post #9510 of 9547
Anyone know a good place in Miami Florida to service the sub ?
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