or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Sony GWIII Owners thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Sony GWIII Owners thread - Page 126

post #3751 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by splinke View Post

Hello weebling1,

I maintain the web site you linked in your post. I assume the lens in question came from the "middle-left" portion of the optical block as pictured below (from a photo originally posted by "tdma" a few posts up):


When you say it is the "third lens," could you provide a list of the lenses that occur prior to the first mirror in the upper-left? Doesn't the first lens look very similar to the one you posted about (a "series of parallelograms")?

You don't explicitly state it, but can I assume that you just ended up removing the lens, because it appeared it scorched, and you were unable to clean it without breaking it?

My concern would be that it is a filter that removes IR and/or UV light. Unfiltered IR and UV light are known to accelerate degradation of the more sensitive filters and LCD panels downstream. So, while things may look brighter in the short-term, you might be damaging other parts.

Alternatively, it may be an "integrator" (creates the rectangular area of light necessary for the TV, a "relay lens," a "collimator lens" (makes all of the light waves parallel to each other so that the LCD panel will scatter them properly), or something else. If anybody knows, please speak up. Here is a schematic from a Sony patent that I posted previously:


Steve

I think this diagram is for the A10/ A2000 models.
You are on the right path with this. (pun intended). This light path is now very intense and will damage the mirrors, magnifiers and LCD panels in a very short period of time. It may even shatter the first reflector because the light will convert to heat when changed thats why that part gets cooked. I suggest putting the optical block back together with the proper parts before it gets damaged beyond a reasonable repair. A new one will cost over $500.00

Steve, not sure if you received my email. I will rebuild your optical block whenever you are ready. Let me know.<<
post #3752 of 3890


here is my version of the blob problem. unless this can be fixed for cheap, i'm just going to dump it and get something new
post #3753 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxSooner View Post



here is my version of the blob problem. unless this can be fixed for cheap, i'm just going to dump it and get something new

What do you consiider cheap? can you remove the optical block yourself? Looks like someone took it apart and damaged the ribbon cable or the connection is bad. if you dump it, sell me the parts.
post #3754 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjb220 View Post

What do you consiider cheap? can you remove the optical block yourself? Looks like someone took it apart and damaged the ribbon cable or the connection is bad. if you dump it, sell me the parts.

Considering the bulb will need to be replaced in the next few months, cheap would be <$300. I just don't want to throw money at a defective product.

Nobody has touched the optical block. The last time the bulb was replaced was about 2 years ago. Could fan vibrations shake something loose?

This just popped up one day to this extent, though I noticed a small blob of blue discoloration, an a small horizontal blue line that faded away every now and then..

If its not much more difficult than opening up a computer and swapping out a hard drive, or motherboard, I should be able to remove the optical block, and verify connections. I just don't want to spend much at all getting a rebuild that is guaranteed to fail.
post #3755 of 3890
Hi, I was wondering if anyone can help me with my Sony KDF-E60A20 TV.
I'm experiencing the blue dots everywhere and now also experiencing the yellow tint over 1/4 of my screen on the lower left hand side as you view the T.V..

I CALLED SONY from the number I saw someone post on this website and they troubleshot it a little bit and agreed it was the optical block.

They said they could do nothing for me since the TV was out of warranty ( I purchaesd it Sept of 2005). They gave me the option of buying a new Sony product at a greatly reduced price (52" TV for $1050) (I can buy other flat screens cheaper than this brand new and guess what.. IT"S NOT A SONY THANK GOD).

What is my next step ? Is there anything else I can do? Money is very tight these days to say the least. I will NEVER, EVER BUY another SONY PRODUCT again. I used to be a Sony die hard fan (from car stereos, stereos', TV's, etc) but never again.

is there any chance I can get this warrantied? I saw somewhere that certain models have warranties until Jan 2010. I mentioned this to her and she said "not my model" and I said "it still uses the same optical block technology and why wouldn't mine be covered?" There was long silence and she couodn't answer me.

Before I left she said and this is what floors me..
SONY SAYS" I HAVE TWO WEEKS TO MAKE MY DECISION ON WHAT KIND OF OFFER I WILL ACCEPT FROM THEM". I laughed and hung up.. (like I'm going to be pressured into accepting an offer from them) what a bunch of dorks..

Anyways, sorry to babble on but is there anything that can be done or anything that someone can point me in the right direction before it's waaay to late (which I fear it is)

Gerald
post #3756 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxSooner View Post

Considering the bulb will need to be replaced in the next few months, cheap would be <$300. I just don't want to throw money at a defective product.

Nobody has touched the optical block. The last time the bulb was replaced was about 2 years ago. Could fan vibrations shake something loose?

This just popped up one day to this extent, though I noticed a small blob of blue discoloration, an a small horizontal blue line that faded away every now and then..

If its not much more difficult than opening up a computer and swapping out a hard drive, or motherboard, I should be able to remove the optical block, and verify connections. I just don't want to spend much at all getting a rebuild that is guaranteed to fail.

I can rebuild it for you if your interested. My email is cabledude0461@yahoo.com .Like you said, It will fail again because of design. I have had no problems with the rebuilds and I believe the parts I use may be better than the originals. My first rebuild in a KDF-60XBR950 is over 4,000 hous at this point and still perfect.
post #3757 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by gheddleson View Post

Hi, I was wondering if anyone can help me with my Sony KDF-E60A20 TV.
I'm experiencing the blue dots everywhere and now also experiencing the yellow tint over 1/4 of my screen on the lower left hand side as you view the T.V..

I CALLED SONY from the number I saw someone post on this website and they troubleshot it a little bit and agreed it was the optical block.

They said they could do nothing for me since the TV was out of warranty ( I purchaesd it Sept of 2005). They gave me the option of buying a new Sony product at a greatly reduced price (52" TV for $1050) (I can buy other flat screens cheaper than this brand new and guess what.. IT"S NOT A SONY THANK GOD).

What is my next step ? Is there anything else I can do? Money is very tight these days to say the least. I will NEVER, EVER BUY another SONY PRODUCT again. I used to be a Sony die hard fan (from car stereos, stereos', TV's, etc) but never again.

is there any chance I can get this warrantied? I saw somewhere that certain models have warranties until Jan 2010. I mentioned this to her and she said "not my model" and I said "it still uses the same optical block technology and why wouldn't mine be covered?" There was long silence and she couodn't answer me.

Before I left she said and this is what floors me..
SONY SAYS" I HAVE TWO WEEKS TO MAKE MY DECISION ON WHAT KIND OF OFFER I WILL ACCEPT FROM THEM". I laughed and hung up.. (like I'm going to be pressured into accepting an offer from them) what a bunch of dorks..

Anyways, sorry to babble on but is there anything that can be done or anything that someone can point me in the right direction before it's waaay to late (which I fear it is)

Gerald

I hear of people starting another suit to get SONY to cover these sets again but I doubt it will happen. I am offering repairs on optical blocks and the model you have is one that I rebuild. If you are interested, contact me. If you are able to remove and reinstall your part to be rebuilt, you can save a ton of money. if you are local to Middletown, CT, I could do the work for you. Hope this helps, John
post #3758 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjb220 View Post

I hear of people starting another suit to get SONY to cover these sets again but I doubt it will happen. I am offering repairs on optical blocks and the model you have is one that I rebuild. If you are interested, contact me. If you are able to remove and reinstall your part to be rebuilt, you can save a ton of money. if you are local to Middletown, CT, I could do the work for you. Hope this helps, John


John,

How do I get in contact with you ? If you would like to email me you can get me at sales [at] mantamachinery [dot] com . I think I'm able to remove it and put it back in... Could u please email me on how we can get this started ? Everyday the set gets worse and worse..
post #3759 of 3890
I had one of these years ago, they are cheaper to replace then to fix unless you do it yourself.
post #3760 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcfox View Post

I had one of these years ago, they are cheaper to replace then to fix unless you do it yourself.

If you decide you can do the work yourself the job is easy once you find a reasonable price on getting the optical block repaired. I can repair for about $200. shipping extra <<<<<< Another shamelss plug.
post #3761 of 3890
Sorry for the delay jjb220 and splinke.

I think the patent diagram is slightly off I view it as follows:

UV-IR filter
Integrator lens (square with multiple facets, like a compound lens/insect eye)
approx. 2" air gap, as shown in your actual picture
another Integrator lens
Aluminum, shiney, vertical slot 'mask'
*Collimator*? lens ( allows the un-masked areas to pass and creates vertical parallel light?)

The collimator lens broke in 2 places on joints when I tried to remove it "gently". It has a thick coating on the back? side of the un-masked regions. This coating is what burned.



Sorry but I'm not really interested in repairing this unit, I've had it since November 2003 and am EAGER to invest in newer technology (i.e. LED/LCD HDTV)
post #3762 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by weebling1 View Post

Sorry for the delay jjb220 and splinke.

I think the patent diagram is slightly off I view it as follows:

UV-IR filter
Integrator lens (square with multiple facets, like a compound lens/insect eye)
approx. 2" air gap, as shown in your actual picture
another Integrator lens
Aluminum, shiney, vertical slot 'mask'
*Collimator*? lens ( allows the un-masked areas to pass and creates vertical parallel light?)

The collimator lens broke in 2 places on joints when I tried to remove it "gently". It has a thick coating on the back? side of the un-masked regions. This coating is what burned.



Sorry but I'm not really interested in repairing this unit, I've had it since November 2003 and am EAGER to invest in newer technology (i.e. LED/LCD HDTV)

I think the diagram is for an A10 or A2000 model. Good luck on your next HDTV
post #3763 of 3890
I just noticed a green smudge on the screen of my 42we610 (oct. 03 build - had it since nov. 03). From what I've read on this thread and others is that it's an OB issue and is not going to get better.
Does anyone know the time frame for the progression of deterioration?
post #3764 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mockingbird View Post

I just noticed a green smudge on the screen of my 42we610 (oct. 03 build - had it since nov. 03). From what I've read on this thread and others is that it's an OB issue and is not going to get better.
Does anyone know the time frame for the progression of deterioration?

your model is 6-8,000 hours min 15,000 hours max I rebuild the optical blocks for this model and see these hours on them but it is a variable due to environment. Even in a clean house the fans can pack with dust and cause early failure. A green smudge is not an optical block failure but more possibly dust build up on the internal lenses. This can be serviced to get many more hours of use.
post #3765 of 3890
Sony agreed to pay $225 toward repair which is a joke considering estimated $900-1000 repair for the part and labor. They also offered this as discount for new TV on Sonystyle. This on on the original year 2004 KF-42WE610. I was thinking of the 46" W5100 for $1004 after discount but it irks me about the whole Sony thing and don't want to reward them for this. What do you think?
post #3766 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1650 View Post

Sony agreed to pay $225 toward repair which is a joke considering estimated $900-1000 repair for the part and labor. They also offered this as discount for new TV on Sonystyle. This on on the original year 2004 KF-42WE610. I was thinking of the 46" W5100 for $1004 after discount but it irks me about the whole Sony thing and don't want to reward them for this. What do you think?

Just to clarify, the KF-42WE610 is actually a 2003 model, even if yours was manufactured in 2004, although that is not of much consequence. I have seen the KDL-46W5100 on sale at reputable online dealers for $1,195 (maybe less) with free shipping and no sales taxes. Add sales taxes and potential shipping costs to Sony's $1,004 offer, and you probably won't save much, if any, money. And regardless of how you look at it, the $225 offer is virtually nothing.
post #3767 of 3890
Thanks for the guidance jjb220. If it's just some dust, I'll try to live with it. I don't know how many hours are on the TV, but I use it everyday for 7 years. It's only a mild distraction when the movie credits are rolling. I probably have at least 10k on it. I'll try to use it till it requires service and then I'll junk it. It still has a nice picture (the smudge isn't noticable when watching programing).
post #3768 of 3890
**to jjb220** I know this is not the VPL-HS10 front projector forum, but I am having trouble with the dreaded "scribble" problem. The scribble is located on my green LCD. The LCDs are part of the Prism Block Assembly. The setup is almost the same, except for the lens orientation. Would you be able to correct this? Besides the convergence issue, it seems that it would be easy to replace the LCD because there are only 4 screws holding it on. The link about Sony Optical Block and Related Problems, is great.
post #3769 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmini402 View Post

**to jjb220** I know this is not the VPL-HS10 front projector forum, but I am having trouble with the dreaded "scribble" problem. The scribble is located on my green LCD. The LCDs are part of the Prism Block Assembly. The setup is almost the same, except for the lens orientation. Would you be able to correct this? Besides the convergence issue, it seems that it would be easy to replace the LCD because there are only 4 screws holding it on. The link about Sony Optical Block and Related Problems, is great.

This unit internaly is very much the same as the RPTV LCD sets. I should be able to help. Contact me thru email, cabledude0461@yahoo.com
post #3770 of 3890
Hello all:

I just wanted to write to thank all of your for the tips I got from this site, which proved no end of help in dealing with Sony. Here is my quick story.

Bought a 42WE610 in March of 2004 and it worked reasonably well until December of 2009, when the blue blob began to become visible and grow on the screen. I checked the internet for reports of this problem ans soon found this and other sites discussing it and finally found Sony's own website acknowledging the issue as well. Thankfully, when I opened up the front of the TV, I also had the warped lamp door problem because as most of you know my set is already out of Sony's super-secret extended warranty for just the optical block issue, but the warped door issue was still under warranty.

Anyway, long story short, after the service tech said it could not be fixed and 6 weeks of back and forth with Sony, and with the help of the tips I gained from this and other sites, I rejected all of Sony's offers until they sent out a refurbished 46V5100. I see that this set may have some issues as well, but I took the offer because I have a big Super Bowl party every year and B.Y.O.T.V. did not sound like a lot of fun. The set was delivered yesterday, and so far so good.

One thing, because of Sony's delay in getting out the refurbished TV, they extended my warranty out to 6 months. You all may want to be aware of that in dealing with Sony in the future.

So, again I want to thank all of you for your help. Sorry for all of you who are having less success dealing with Sony and who are out of the extended warranty period, as I know I would be TICKED if my set started acting up in two months after my extended warranty (one that I did not even know existed) was up.

Now, anyone know what I should do with my blue 42WE610??!!
post #3771 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalnitz View Post

Hello all:

I just wanted to write to thank all of your for the tips I got from this site, which proved no end of help in dealing with Sony. Here is my quick story.

Bought a 42WE610 in March of 2004 and it worked reasonably well until December of 2009, when the blue blob began to become visible and grow on the screen. I checked the internet for reports of this problem ans soon found this and other sites discussing it and finally found Sony's own website acknowledging the issue as well. Thankfully, when I opened up the front of the TV, I also had the warped lamp door problem because as most of you know my set is already out of Sony's super-secret extended warranty for just the optical block issue, but the warped door issue was still under warranty.

Anyway, long story short, after the service tech said it could not be fixed and 6 weeks of back and forth with Sony, and with the help of the tips I gained from this and other sites, I rejected all of Sony's offers until they sent out a refurbished 46V5100. I see that this set may have some issues as well, but I took the offer because I have a big Super Bowl party every year and B.Y.O.T.V. did not sound like a lot of fun. The set was delivered yesterday, and so far so good.

One thing, because of Sony's delay in getting out the refurbished TV, they extended my warranty out to 6 months. You all may want to be aware of that in dealing with Sony in the future.

So, again I want to thank all of you for your help. Sorry for all of you who are having less success dealing with Sony and who are out of the extended warranty period, as I know I would be TICKED if my set started acting up in two months after my extended warranty (one that I did not even know existed) was up.

Now, anyone know what I should do with my blue 42WE610??!!

You can repair it for $200.00 if you can do your own work or You can sell it on craigslist. If your in or near Connecticut, I am interested in it.
post #3772 of 3890
I recently grappled with a friend's KDF-50WE655 and thought I'd throw up a quick report. For a couple years now, watching movies at his house was a pain because the colors were so off. By "off" I don't mean just a little inaccurate, I mean like someone threw the tint setting to 500 - browns were bright orange, grass was nuclear green, skin tones (ha!) made everyone on screen look like red aliens - the whole thing was a terrible mess. On previous occasions I had adjusted user menu settings to no avail, so we set up an appointment last week to probe a little deeper into the service menu.

Armed with the "UMR does GWIII" PDF, an AVSHD BluRay and printouts of many individual settings from this thread, I came to the following settings:

RDRV 140 -> 60
GBRV 140 -> 129
BDRV 140 -> 143
RCUT 255 -> 230
GCUT 255 -> 242
BCUT 255 -> 255

UPIC Pro -> MAX
UBRT Pro -> MAX

Numerous tweaks to DHPH, DVPH, MDHS, MDVS to 2.5% overscan all around
Others just following UMR (AXIS, USHP, etc.)


Notice the incredible drop in RDRV. This was necessary to restore the balance between red and the other colors, but is this because green and blue got weaker or because red got stronger? LampTM was 7,901 and LampCT was 4465, I also checked for the melting lamp door issue but found no evidence of such. The only excuse my friend ever gave is that his 2yo daughter "did something to the TV settings" to screw it up but without SM access I don't see how Could a kid hitting this TV make this happen?

Also notice the UPIC and UBRT. Using the black clipping pattern from Ch1 and Ch2 of Basic Settings on AVSHD I found that even with these maxed, bar 17 was not perceptibly flashing. At Pro default UBRT/UPIC the whole screen was just one big crushed black! White clipping settings also showed a very dark screen (with all bars blinking) until UPIC was maxed. Is the lamp just really old and losing its brightness?

Finally, one last note about the red ... using A7 - RGB high clipping - no matter what I did to RDRV and RCUT I could never see any flashing bars in the red area of the screen. Blue and green worked fine but RGB low clipping showed the same too-dark, crushed-black look of the black clipping pattern even at max UBRT and UPIC. Do you think tweaking UGAM (User gamma adjustment), RYB (Red level for color decoder) or RYR (Red hue for color decoder) would have helped here?

I have no tools or knowledge to fix greyscale levels, and I know that improper settings there can throw off colors. However this was less of a "calibration" than a "fix something already royally ****ed", not to mention there was sunlight streaming into the room and other factors that made real display testing and calibration impossible. Just wondering if anyone could help analyze the results I got from my first-ever foray into a GWIII SM
post #3773 of 3890
Have owned unit since new. Did replace the optical block a few years ago and has worked fine till now.

Takes about 90 seconds for vertical sync to lock in. After warm up all is fine. Is there a tweak to re-adjust the vertical sync? Please advise the specifics, if any. Many thanks for help! Terry
post #3774 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by god_forbids View Post

I recently grappled with a friend's KDF-50WE655 and thought I'd throw up a quick report. For a couple years now, watching movies at his house was a pain because the colors were so off. By "off" I don't mean just a little inaccurate, I mean like someone threw the tint setting to 500 - browns were bright orange, grass was nuclear green, skin tones (ha!) made everyone on screen look like red aliens - the whole thing was a terrible mess. On previous occasions I had adjusted user menu settings to no avail, so we set up an appointment last week to probe a little deeper into the service menu.

Armed with the "UMR does GWIII" PDF, an AVSHD BluRay and printouts of many individual settings from this thread, I came to the following settings:

RDRV 140 -> 60
GBRV 140 -> 129
BDRV 140 -> 143
RCUT 255 -> 230
GCUT 255 -> 242
BCUT 255 -> 255

UPIC Pro -> MAX
UBRT Pro -> MAX

Numerous tweaks to DHPH, DVPH, MDHS, MDVS to 2.5% overscan all around
Others just following UMR (AXIS, USHP, etc.)


Notice the incredible drop in RDRV. This was necessary to restore the balance between red and the other colors, but is this because green and blue got weaker or because red got stronger? LampTM was 7,901 and LampCT was 4465, I also checked for the melting lamp door issue but found no evidence of such. The only excuse my friend ever gave is that his 2yo daughter "did something to the TV settings" to screw it up but without SM access I don't see how Could a kid hitting this TV make this happen?

Also notice the UPIC and UBRT. Using the black clipping pattern from Ch1 and Ch2 of Basic Settings on AVSHD I found that even with these maxed, bar 17 was not perceptibly flashing. At Pro default UBRT/UPIC the whole screen was just one big crushed black! White clipping settings also showed a very dark screen (with all bars blinking) until UPIC was maxed. Is the lamp just really old and losing its brightness?

Finally, one last note about the red ... using A7 - RGB high clipping - no matter what I did to RDRV and RCUT I could never see any flashing bars in the red area of the screen. Blue and green worked fine but RGB low clipping showed the same too-dark, crushed-black look of the black clipping pattern even at max UBRT and UPIC. Do you think tweaking UGAM (User gamma adjustment), RYB (Red level for color decoder) or RYR (Red hue for color decoder) would have helped here?

I have no tools or knowledge to fix greyscale levels, and I know that improper settings there can throw off colors. However this was less of a "calibration" than a "fix something already royally ****ed", not to mention there was sunlight streaming into the room and other factors that made real display testing and calibration impossible. Just wondering if anyone could help analyze the results I got from my first-ever foray into a GWIII SM

I am surprised I missed this question. Some of the color balance may be off because of dust on the lense providing light to the color panel. A failing C1 or C2 board will also throw this out of whack.
post #3775 of 3890
ATTENTION all owners of models KF-42WE610, KF-50WE610, KF-60WE610, KDF-60XBR950, KDF-70XBR950, KF-42WE620, KF-50WE620, KDF-42WE655, and KDF-50WE655:

This is a reminder that your TV has a known failure related to lamp overheating, causing warping, melting, scorching, cracking, etc. of the lamp door and other adjacent parts in the TV. This can eventually render your TV inoperable, and it could be a safety issue.

Sony USA has an extended warranty alert for the problem:
Limited Extended Warranty for Certain 2003 and 2004 Televisions Exhibiting Warping of the Lamp Access Door And Sony Canada has an offer alert for the problem:
Notice for 2003 and 2004 Model Year Grand WEGA™ Televisions On March 25, 2010, Sony extended this warranty a second time (for an additional year). It is now set to expire on March 31st, 2011. I recommend that all owners periodically take a look at their lamp doors (go through the procedure you would do to replace the lamp without actually unplugging it). If there is any sign of warping, melting, scorching, cracking, etc. on the lamp door itself or any surrounding parts, you should report it to Sony before the deadline expires. It may already have happened, but you are unaware of it.

If you find evidence of the problem, and you are concerned that there is a potential safety issue, please file an Incident Report with the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

In the US, I recommend insisting that Sony replaces your TV with one of EQUIVALENT SIZE and FEATURES WITHOUT CHARGE. Cite the following information (I am not an attorney, so this is legal information--not legal advice...consult an attorney for the latter):

The federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (Title 15 of the United States Code, Sections 2301-2312) states the following.

Section 2304(a)(1): "{S}uch warrantor must as a minimum remedy such consumer product within a reasonable time and without charge, in the case of a defect, malfunction, or failure to conform with such written warranty..."

Section 2301(11): "The term 'replacement' means furnishing a new consumer product which is identical or reasonably equivalent to the warranted consumer product."

Section 2304(d): "Remedy without charge. For purposes of this section and of section 2302(c) of this title, the term 'without charge' means that the warrantor may not assess the consumer for any costs the warrantor or his representatives incur in connection with the required remedy of a warranted consumer product..."

Section 2304(a)(4): "{I}f the product (or a component part thereof) contains a defect or malfunction after a reasonable number of attempts by the warrantor to remedy defects or malfunctions in such product, such warrantor must permit the consumer to elect either a refund for, or replacement without charge of, such product or part (as the case may be)..."

Here are links to Sony's original Limited Warranties:
WE610 and WE655
WE620
XBR950 Also note that, if your model number is listed, it is covered, even if it was manufactured and/or purchased in a different year than its model year.

See my Sony TV problems web site (link in my signature below) for additional details.
post #3776 of 3890
I actually have the we-610 and the door is warped, in addition it no longer works. The tv works for about 10 seconds, than the picture goes off but sound stays on. The red led blinks 8 times(not the lamp led). Is it possible that the overheating led to this problem. I was about ready to junk the tv but maybe I can get sony to do something. I did replace it already with a z5100. Any info will be appreciated
post #3777 of 3890
Quote:
Originally Posted by fflemke View Post

I actually have the we-610 and the door is warped, in addition it no longer works. The tv works for about 10 seconds, than the picture goes off but sound stays on. The red led blinks 8 times(not the lamp led). Is it possible that the overheating led to this problem. I was about ready to junk the tv but maybe I can get sony to do something. I did replace it already with a z5100. Any info will be appreciated

A warped lamp door can cause the TV to not function. There is a switch that is supposed to detect whether the door is secure, and the warping can affect this switch, causing the TV to think the door is not secure. However, regardless of whether the problem you are seeing is due to the warping or a failed lamp or some other cause, the warping alone is grounds for Sony to provide you with a free replacement TV free of charge. I would recommend that you call Sony customer service, explain your situation, demand a replacement, and file an incident report with the CPSC if you feel the melting may be a safety issue.
post #3778 of 3890
I have called sony and they set up a service call. I notice in the recall that it says other parts may be damaged. It does not state what those parts are. I'm wondering if the overheating has damaged other parts that may have led to the picture turning off. When the tech comes out he/she will see that the door is warped but might just tell me it has nothing to do with the picture problem, and if that's the cause, could i still demand replacement due to warped door if tv's not in working condition? Probably not. I'm glad I looked this up but should have done so before I bought another sony. My intention was to bring this tv to the firehouse and have the guys buck up and repair it, but if I can get a refurb tv i'd prefer that. $3000 is alot of money for a tv to only last 6 years...not to mention 5 lamps at $120 a shot.
post #3779 of 3890
I called sony yesterday and the tech came out this morning(wow!) and said the tv's fried. Now just got wait to hear back from sony on what there first offer is gonna be. Thanks for the info Splinke. Man I can't believe I replaced that tv already though. I'll have to check the sony store for there return policy, maybe i still got some time.
post #3780 of 3890
fflemke,

you don't think that the fact you mentioned you work at a firehouse earlier may have any affect on that response time do you?

You know that sony pays peeps to monitor this stuff.

With your knowledge of fire safety, or the impression of, you may be able to persuade the powers that be to replace your tv.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Sony GWIII Owners thread