Shakers - Simple/Cheap Hookup - Visual Guide - Page 77

Cool. I appreciate the answer.

Would it be possible to run just one Bass Shaker of that Amp? And how would that hook-up go? I want to try it, but I don't want to invest a whole lot into it... 1 Arua is pretty cheap...

As far as I know (and from what I've read) its better to get even shakers. As you said another aura is pretty cheap.

Might be too much power for one shaker...but I think if you kept the volume low you should be ok. It should be just a normal speaker to amp type connection rather than wiring series.

My friend has a single shaker hooked up to the zone 2 of his receiver and it is fine. Granted real world power of a zone 2 vs. a separate amp could be very different...

I had bought two aura bass shakers off amazon for $90 awhile ago...might be worth buying two if that's a better price than what you found...

Zone 2 huh? Hmmmm, how would that sound though? How would the crossover be set? I guess I could try it both way's, with Amp and with Zone 2...

If you have a separate amp, I would suggest using that.

I have 4 clark synthesis shakers connected to my zone2 on my onkyo 809. I am happy with the result, but I am curious what an amp would do for the shakers. They need more power than Aura's.

You take a cable like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-To-Go-0...4925036&sr=8-5 and put the mono end of that cable to one of your subwoofer outputs on your receiver. Then on the stereo end of that cable connect to zone 2 input. This was that input only receives bass signals and is crossed over properly. Then on the zone2 speaker terminals connect your shakers as you would with a separate amp.

You just need to make sure your zone2 is on and receiving info from the proper input. I'd suggest testing before mounting the shakers.

Also note that you must have a powered zone2...I think most are...

Can I get a recommendation in the best way to power three Clark Transducers? I do have an old Buttkicker amp that used to power three buttkickers. Can I use this amp for the Clarks or better to get something else like three Dayton 150 amps? Thanks. SJ

If i'm not wrong, clark transducers are 4 ohm so if your amp supports 8 ohm you can put 2 transducers in series (4+4 ohms = 8 in total) to one channel and another transducer in another channel.

The buttkicker amp is 1000 watts for 4 ohms. I used to power 3 buttkickers with it in series, but the Clark's are only rated at 150 watts. SJ

1000W is definitely over powered for 3 Clark's.

A behringer A500 amplifier would be suitable for 3 Clark Transducers. It outputs 125W at 8 ohms.

thanks for the information. helped me out lots

This was one that was recommend. Wire three in a serial configuration.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-813

Would this work? Thanks. SJ

Assume I would run mono and wire the transducers serial?

Being a subwoofer amplifier, you would connect the transducers to the subwoofer out. Just note, if you connect 3 in series you get 12 ohm impedance (since each transducer is 4 ohm) and the 156W is rated at 8 ohm impedance.

Then connect in parallel? The guy at parts express told me that most people get the

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-813

And wire in series. I like your amp recommendation better, but how would I wire 3?


Also, what about three of these:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-812

Connecting them in parallel gives a 5.3 ohm impedance....if that's supported by the amp than that's fine. Connecting 3 to the Behringer can be done by hooking 2 up in series to one channel and the other one to the other channel since its a stereo amp then hook up the amp to the sub pre-out. Would be best to hook up another one in series to the third one but that won't be bad or something. The dayton APA150 is 75W @ 4 ohm. Hooking up to this amp is the same as I described for the behringer since it has 2 channels however remember that 75W / channel will be divided between the 2 transducers in series AND each transducer is 100W so that might not be enough power.

Thanks. This looks like it will work. One other question. Does the on/off switch on the Behringer always stay ON if the power is disconnected? I would need the ability to turn this unit ON by simply turning the power ON vs. pushing the switch. Assuming the unit was ON when I removed the AC power. SJ

That I do not know. I will get back to you as soon as I receive this amplifier.

I finally heard back from Buttkicker about their amp which I already own. If I wire in series for 12ohms then the specs for their amp are 330 watts at 12 ohms. So 110 watts each. Should this work for the Clark's?

Can you post a link to the specs of the Buttkicker amp you own?

Previous version to this:

http://www.thebuttkicker.com/home_th.../bka1000-n.htm

I've decided to go with the Dayton SA230. I like the options it has and the technical folks at Parts Express indicate it will easily drive three Clark transducers. If not, I will return it to them! SJ

Let us know how it performs. Which Clark Synthesis Transducers do you have by the way? Silver ones?

I was wondering if someone could check my "math" and configuration please.

I have 8 shakers. Each shaker will connect up to a single seat, and I have 4 seats in 2 rows.

I ran two pairs of wires to my seating riser. One for the second row on top of the riser, and one to the first row in front of the riser.

Those are the "knows." I haven't picked up an amp/2-channel receiver yet, but I am looking for something in the $100ish range.

The bass shakers I have are the non-pro version (4 ohms and 25 watts each). I know that "ideally" I would have 200 watts total, but my previous experience with these shakers is that they are most effective in adding to the experience (without being just a stupid level of shaking) that they don't require that much power. I mean, they won't be run at max anyway.

So, I can wire up each row with a combination of series/parellel and get either 4 ohms or 16 ohms per set of four shakers.

So far so good.

So if I go with that, I would need something with 2 channels that can handle 4 ohms or 16 ohms per channel and output up to about 100 watts (any more is overkill).

OR

I can tie both rows together and get a single 8 ohm connection at about 200 watts.

So can I assume that any of the option options would work?
#1) Dayton Audio SPA250 - 156 Watt at 8 ohms plate amp (connect both rows together)
#2) Dayton Audio APA150 - 2x75 watts in 4 ohm mode, 150 watts in bridged 8 ohm mode
#3) Dayton Audio SA70 - 70 watts at 4 ohms - Buy 2 of them, one for each row.

#1 is priced between the others, and would just require a simple box to house it in.
#2 is the most expensive, but still within reason, it is a finished product not needing a box to be constructed.
#3 is the cheapest, requires a box to house both amps, but adds control for both rows independently.

First up, is my math correct on the Ohms?
Second, opinions/options for powering this setup? While I would have loved something like a receiver with remote capabilities to dial in the level of shake from my seat, I can deal without. Otherwise I would need a 2 channel receiver that could handle 4 ohms at 100 watts per channel...

Thanks!

Someone sent me a PM that I would like to add to the above set of questions.

We all know that a 4 ohm load is "more taxing" on a system than an 8 ohm one. By that, I mean that being able to drive 4 ohms isn't something that all receivers can do.

So in the PM, it was stated that I should just go with something like a 100 watt/channel stereo receiver and wire the bass shakers into two sets (front row and rear row) at 16 ohms each and that the receiver should handle it just fine, but will drop the wattage down to somewhere near 50%. From my past experience, I know that it doesn't take a lot to get shakers moving, and since these are the 25w max version, I might be OK feeding them a max of about half of their maximum watt capability.

So is it true that receivers should be OK with 16 ohm loads?

I was looking at the Sherwood RX-4109 (was originally looking at the 4105, but heard that you can't put 16 gauge or large wire into the spring connectors, so for $10 more I was thinking that the 4109 would work better since I am using 14 gauge wire (already run inside my wall, under the floor, and into my riser.

Thoughts?

Yes. The new SA230 amp works great. Drives the three in series with no problems. SJ

I have the Onkyo HT-S5500:
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S5500...972317&sr=1-20

Would this work with the Buttkicker? If so, would this be just as good as using the BK amplifier. What are the pros/cons of using a receiver vs the official amplifier?

Just wanted to re-iterate that the Aura's were the best budget purchase I have my for my HT. I haven't had them unhooked for a few months because of moving my furniture and finally got around to re-wiring them. I watched the plane crash scene from Flight Of The Phoenix and literally felt like I was spinning around. I have an Epik Legend subwoofer that does a pretty great job pressurizing my room but the Aura's just add that last little impact that make such a difference.
I just ordered a 50HZ FMOD to clean things up a bit, it was my last piece of the puzzle. FYI, there are sellers on eBay selling single FMODs for just under $15 shipped.
Edited by sdolen - 6/25/12 at 12:44pm