AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2004 Mitsubishi CRT Tweaks/Q&A thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

2004 Mitsubishi CRT Tweaks/Q&A thread - Page 8

post #211 of 501
Hi, I just bought the WS-55613 RPTV almost 2 weeks ago and love it. I did most of the calibration techniques in this thread as well as taking off the glare screen, which made the biggest PQ improvement IMHO. Although, after taking it off I did notice like someone on this board stated, a loss in the black levels as well as more grains/pixels (especially compared to my Sony 65WS550 that still has it's glare screen on). I don't want to use the black enhancement option, so does anyone know what I can do to get the blacks a little darker (current Contrast is 17 and Brightness is 29)? With regards to the increased pixels, what can I do to remedy?

Also, I noticed that my TV rebooted and sometimes would not turn on (flashing led, then nothing) when using it in low power mode. Not sure if its just my TV, but this tip may help others experiencing this, I just keep it in standard power mode and no reboots, but like clockwork I get reboots the moment I switch to low power mode.

Thanks in advance for my questions above...
post #212 of 501
Thread Starter 
You should set the black level (brightness) using AVIA or DVE. The tinted glare screen does make blacks darker when ambient light is present (but it also reduces overall light output for bright scenes). The way to control your black levels with the tinted screen off is to control your ambient light.

One way ambient light increases your black level is by going through the screen, reflecting inside the cabinet, and back onto the screen from the inside. You can minimize this and improve black levels by installing Duvetyne w/lens hood.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/learn...lacklevel.html
post #213 of 501
Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander


One way ambient light increases your black level is by going through the screen, reflecting inside the cabinet, and back onto the screen from the inside. You can minimize this and improve black levels by installing Duvetyne w/lens hood.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/learn...lacklevel.html

My ISF guy, Robert Busch and I did this very thing and while the improvement is not dramatic, there is a definite improvement. Well worth the time and effort, Took about 1-2 hrs.

Jim
post #214 of 501
Marc, thanks for the quick reply... I will definitely try this as I think I've done everything short of this and/or an ISF calibration. Sorry, I forgot to give you guys a reference point on what I've done. Anyways, I first took off the glare screen, calibrated via DVE, did some sm tweaks for overscan, and did 64 point convergence on all inputs. Anyways, thanks for the info., I'll try the Duvetyne.

Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
You should set the black level (brightness) using AVIA or DVE. The tinted glare screen does make blacks darker when ambient light is present (but it also reduces overall light output for bright scenes). The way to control your black levels with the tinted screen off is to control your ambient light.

One way ambient light increases your black level is by going through the screen, reflecting inside the cabinet, and back onto the screen from the inside. You can minimize this and improve black levels by installing Duvetyne w/lens hood.

http://www.keohi.com/keohihdtv/learn...lacklevel.html
post #215 of 501
As far as the increased pixels, anyone know what the cause of this is? When I place the glare screen on again, the pixles don't go away but are less noticeable (picture is softer overall too). I'm guessing that w/ the screen off PQ is sharper, hence pixels are more noticeable, so the pixels were always there, just not as obvious with the screen on. Is this true, or is there a way to reduce them via sm tweaks or ISF calibration, thanks.
post #216 of 501
Thread Starter 
The better your focus is, the more visible scan lines (pixels) will be. This is what you want for the best PQ. The scan lines should should not be noticeable from normal viewing distances though. How far are you sitting from the display? Do you notice the pixels on all inputs (SDTV, DVD, and HDTV)?
post #217 of 501
I don't notice them from my normal viewing distance at 11 ft. I start noticing them at around 6-7 ft. I'm only asking because w/ the glare screen on I need to be 3-4 ft to see them. Scan lines I can see on all inputs at around 6-7 ft, while pixels are only on my OTA HD antenna source. So I guess it's my feed then. Will an inline amp for the silver sensor antenna help reduce the pixels/noise? Thanks again...

Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
The better your focus is, the more visible scan lines (pixels) will be. This is what you want for the best PQ. The scan lines should should not be noticeable from normal viewing distances though. How far are you sitting from the display? Do you notice the pixels on all inputs (SDTV, DVD, and HDTV)?
post #218 of 501
Thread Starter 
You don't want to reduce the scan lines...the visible scan lines mean your picture is sufficiently sharp. The glare screen softens the picture. Don't worry about something that you can't see from normal viewing distance.
post #219 of 501
Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
You don't want to reduce the scan lines...the visible scan lines mean your picture is sufficiently sharp. The glare screen softens the picture. Don't worry about something that you can't see from normal viewing distance.

Marc,

Does this hold true for the Diamond Shield used on the Diamond series sets also? Can't remember if I asked this question before or not. Which way will provide the best picture, on or off, I have no children or pet considerations to influence the decision. The set is a WS55813.

Thanks,

Jim
post #220 of 501
Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
You don't want to reduce the scan lines...the visible scan lines mean your picture is sufficiently sharp. The glare screen softens the picture. Don't worry about something that you can't see from normal viewing distance.

Cool, thanks. I guess that explains why my Sony 65WS550's PQ isn't as good as my new Mits WS55613. On the Sony no matter how close I get I can never see any scan lines. The Mits PQ isn't leaps and bounds better, but you can see a nice PQ difference though. Thanks again for all the help, I can finally stop my tweaking and just enjoy the set (w/ occasional convergence adjustments I'll try and do twice a year at a minimum of course).
post #221 of 501
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by keenan
Does this hold true for the Diamond Shield used on the Diamond series sets also? Can't remember if I asked this question before or not. Which way will provide the best picture, on or off, I have no children or pet considerations to influence the decision. The set is a WS55813.

OFF results in the best PQ...even on the Diamond

Norrin, sounds like your Sony could benefit from a focus calibration.
post #222 of 501
Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
OFF results in the best PQ...even on the Diamond

Norrin, sounds like your Sony could benefit from a focus calibration.

Thanks,

Jim
post #223 of 501
I was in a high end audio store yesterday and one of the guys told me I'd get a better picture if I turned off progressive scan on the DVD player and let the TV do the conversion. He also mentioned setting the resolution on the TV. Does that make sense? I've been using a Mits DVD player (model 8040) in case that makes a difference. I have other DVD plays that I think are high quality but they are not progressive scan.

He also recommended using the DVI port for digital cable over the component inputs?

Thank you for your insight,
Frank
post #224 of 501
Thread Starter 
Try switching between interlaced and progressive and check it out with your own eyes (never just take a salesperson's statements as gospel).

Some Mits sets allow you to select 480p or 960i for 480i upconversion (480p should be selected for film DVDs). You cannot select resolution for 480p or 1080i input.

On the Mits, the best PQ is achieved using progressive component output from a high quality DVD player. Unfortunately, I don't consider the Mits 8040 to be a high quality DVD player. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...84#post3697584

Regarding DVI vs. Component: you will likely not see a difference. CRT sets must convert DVI back to analog to be displayed. Again, try both and decide with your own eyes.
post #225 of 501
Thread Starter 
Found the original Mits 8040 review thread. http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...highlight=8040
post #226 of 501
Just got my 9" gunner yesterday. WS65813. I ended up with a much higher brightness setting than most, at 51. This setting was necessary to dstinguish all 10 bars in the avia 10 IRE bars pattern.

set contast to 18. not because there was ever blooming present through full contrast but because the line on the lft became more distorted at higher contrast. There is still a small distorion still present at top of the line at 18.

Anyhow, with brightness at 51, and contrast at 18, am I asking for trouble? Is it desirable to differentiate all 10 of those bars?

Set seems to have accurate color decoding with tint of 27 and color of 37. Blue filter is spot on and red and green both seem within 5 or maybe 10%.Seem like thats in the ball park?

I like Medium Color - seems most neutral. Low yellows. High runs blue.

Lastly, is there a way to verify the hours on the CRTs. I was supposed to have bought an open box returne within 30 days of purchase, but there sure is a lot of dust an finger prints on it. Wondering if they did the old switcheroo with a demo model on me. Any way to test? Suppose I could (should have) just asked the store for the return paperwork including serial number.

thanks in advance. This TVs awesome.
jb
post #227 of 501
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by jb33
Is it desirable to differentiate all 10 of those bars?

Yes. However, using that pattern may result in too high brightness. You need to run the black level patterns to check DC restoration. You may need to compromise. What test disc are you using?

If you are happy with the light output at contrast = 18 then great. The lower the better.
post #228 of 501
Quote:


Originally posted by Marc Alexander
Yes. However, using that pattern may result in too high brightness. You need to run the black level patterns to check DC restoration. You may need to compromise. What test disc are you using?

If you are happy with the light output at contrast = 18 then great. The lower the better.

Thanks Mark. I'm using AVIA. Uh, what's DC Resoration all about?

I do prefer the contrast up around 31, have I got that much wiggle room as far as burn in protection goes? Also, since that setting seems to stress the power supply (distorted white line) what are the everydat effects on the picture (oes geometry get thrown off?) and what are the longer term effects on the life of the power supply?

thanks,
jb
post #229 of 501
Thread Starter 
In AVIA, there a text descriptions for each test pattern. I believe it is a question mark icon. It talks all about power supplies and DC restoration. It is adviseable to read these before adjusting. (you also should probably watch the video at least once).
post #230 of 501
well I have - on both counts - just not the black pattern descriptions I guess. Not that I know what to do with the gamma table now that I've read it's description
thanks again, marC, for your input on both threads.

jb
post #231 of 501
So I have a VGA to RGB-V cable. I think its V, its the grey cable. Is there anyway I can modify that, or just use it on the RGB-V-H input on the set?

EDIT:

OK, looks like the cable I have provides composite sync and they do have circuits to split out composite sync to Hsynv and Vsync. But as I also need to buy BNC-RCA adapters, it may be cheaper to just buy a new cable. Oh well.

jb
post #232 of 501
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by jb33
Not that I know what to do with the gamma table now that I've read it's description

I agree...the Gamma pattern is worthless

GAMMA=5 (for both 480i/p and 1080i) always seems to result in the most accurate curve for every Mits I've touched.
post #233 of 501
Originally posted by Marc Alexander
OVERSCAN

MENU-0357
Scroll modes - AUDIO
Scroll items - VIDEO
Save - ENTER
Cancel - Cancel
Exit - Menu

MODE - Def Jungle
Horizontal Width - HWID
Vertical Height - VHGT

MENU-0359 for geometry SM

Misc - 6
Coarse - 5
Fine - 4

Color (RGB) - AUDIO
Item Scroll - VIDEO
Cancel- CANCEL
Save and Exit - MENU

marc i have a ? what is the difference between the FINE and the COARSE... does one affect the other.. i have touched up the FINE but cant seem to get the COARSE to do anything.. is the COARSE the convergance in the service menu.... i have turned VM off completely by making the VMLE value 0....
post #234 of 501
Thread Starter 
COARSE contains the geometry controls like pincushion. I'll try and post all the details on this when I get home (I meant to long ago...but forgot).
post #235 of 501
i really appreciate you answering my ?'s.. i saw your post about buying a service manual and i did late last night... but thought in the mean time why not touch it up a little.. so the COARSE takes care of all the geometry stuff and the FINE is the convergance is that correct....
post #236 of 501
Thread Starter 
yep
post #237 of 501
marc ive never bought a servie manual before does it tell you how to do everything like specifically setup the geometry cause i do have some pincushion on 480p and 1080i its not real bad but its noticiable and it kinda bugs me..... i did notice on the coarse with RGB you could move the image up and down but that was it unless you could tell me some more.. i didnt save the settings in coarse i was just trying to get a feel for what i could do with it.... any kinda tips on this before i get the service manual would be great... thanks for your help..
post #238 of 501
Hi,
I've had it implied that the newer x25 DLP machines will integrate better with a HTPC than the x13/x15 CRTs - any comments?

I have tried to read every post in this thread, and I saw where some are outputting DVD video to the x13, but what about using it as a general pc monitor? The wife would like to be able to open emails/surf the web w/ a wireless keyboard from the couch, and the kids to play CDROM games. I am really leaning toward going with this more mature technology (CRT) over some of the teething pains going on with the DLPs regarding rainbows, eyestrain etc. Can anyone help with info on how well these models do as PC monitors, and how best to set it up?

Thanks in advance,
Paul
post #239 of 501
Quote:


Originally posted by PauldF
Hi,
I've had it implied that the newer x25 DLP machines will integrate better with a HTPC than the x13/x15 CRTs - any comments?

I have tried to read every post in this thread, and I saw where some are outputting DVD video to the x13, but what about using it as a general pc monitor? The wife would like to be able to open emails/surf the web w/ a wireless keyboard from the couch, and the kids to play CDROM games. I am really leaning toward going with this more mature technology (CRT) over some of the teething pains going on with the DLPs regarding rainbows, eyestrain etc. Can anyone help with info on how well these models do as PC monitors, and how best to set it up?

Thanks in advance,
Paul

i have the 65813 and a sammy kirk. both are awesome, but I'd definately lean toward a digital set for regular pc, htpc use and gaming including console games. Also, karaoke, dvd games, hd sports.

enjoy.
jb
post #240 of 501
Thread Starter 
Yes, the DLP models will integrate much better as a HTPC. LCD is another technology that is great for HTPC.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2004 Mitsubishi CRT Tweaks/Q&A thread