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2004 Mitsubishi CRT Tweaks/Q&A thread - Page 14

post #391 of 501
1/29/06 at 7:45am
Just from looking the picture that you posted this does not look like an expensive repair. Obviously something is a miss in the convergence circuit. Hard to nail it down with out being able to poke around with a meter. Sorry I am not much help. Mike/KD9RG
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post #392 of 501
1/29/06 at 7:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kd9rg View Post

Just from looking the picture that you posted this does not look like an expensive repair. Obviously something is a miss in the convergence circuit. Hard to nail it down with out being able to poke around with a meter. Sorry I am not much help. Mike/KD9RG


Thanks for the help mike. I though the same thing.

It has been working ok for now. Once in a while it will go into problem mode. But some times if you turn it off and on again if work ok.

So I'am thing I will need to let it break all the way before taking it in.
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post #393 of 501
1/29/06 at 8:43pm
It kind of sounds like a cold solder joint... Makes me want to go in and Freon the board to see if I can locate the problem...

Sean
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post #394 of 501
1/29/06 at 10:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep lover 2 View Post

It kind of sounds like a cold solder joint... Makes me want to go in and Freon the board to see if I can locate the problem...

Sean

What does the freon do?
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post #395 of 501
1/30/06 at 8:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post

What does the freon do?

If you have a "cold solder joint" on a circuit board, usually rapidly chilling the joint will cause it to work briefly. A common diagnosis technique is to use a can of freon, with a spray tip and a long plastic tube to direct the spray directly onto questionable solder connections. If by rapidly chilling down the connection, the problem temporarily goes away then you can feel confident that the joint is defective and needs to have the solder reflowed. This technique can also be used to troubleshoot other small components in an electrical circuit. Sometimes resistors and capacitors can be intermittant when warmed up by the heat of operation of a device. Example: Your TV works when turned on, but after a while it stops working. By using the "chilling" technique you can rapidly chill down suspect parts and see if they start working. If so, then the parts need to be replaced. Back in the days when television sets were all "tube" sets, there was a lot of heat generated and all parts got very warm, and thus components failed more often than now. Chilling a part or solder joint is a recognized diagnostic technique that has been used for years.
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post #396 of 501
1/30/06 at 9:26am
Thanks for the quick education.

I did not think any one actualy fixed anythig these days. I thought most shops just replace modules.
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post #397 of 501
1/30/06 at 6:12pm
The convergence ICs can be a problem on these, the solder joints too.
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post #398 of 501
1/30/06 at 6:48pm
So should I take the TV in now when it works most of the time but not all time. Or just wait for it to completly break?
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post #399 of 501
2/9/06 at 6:47pm
All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks
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post #400 of 501
2/9/06 at 7:22pm
This TV has been nothing but problems for me for the past 4 months. Join the club.

I have a $2000 estimate to fix the damn thing. The TV cost me $4000 after ISF calibration and have to have either the DM board, signal board or doubler board replaced. Mitsubishi has said that it's not economical for them to do anything with the TV and even though I have no warranty on the TV they might be replacing it.

Any hardware/tech geeks out there may wanna take a stab at what's wrong; here is the deal:

The TV is losing picture, the menu system still works, the netcommand system still works and I can see the OSD's even after it goes into this "mode". The guy that has been coming out to fix it is dumbfounded and has not been successful at diagnosing whatever the heck is wrong with the set. All we can figure out is that it's losing sync. The picture will come back on (occasionally) after I shut it off and turn it back on. Something is quite odd about the whole thing and it's pissing me off.

Oh well. Hopefully something comes of this soon.
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post #401 of 501
2/9/06 at 8:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn12341234 View Post

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks

Does the front lower panel come off on that model? If it does there might be a connector there that feeds the button pad to the electronics in the bottom of the set, you might try disconnecting and re-connecting that plug to see if that helps.
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post #402 of 501
2/9/06 at 8:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn12341234 View Post

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks

Give this a try: press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds.
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post #403 of 501
2/9/06 at 9:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn12341234 View Post

All my front panel buttons on my WS55413 stopped working. I have to use the remote for everything...other than that everything else seems fine with the TV. The power light is on when the TV is on. Any idea what the problem might be?

I am able to activate the Error Code Mode using the front panel buttons. The code is 12 for no error.

Thanks

My 48311 has a menu option to disable the front panel buttons, I guess to keep the grandkids from playing with them.

Perhaps you have the same option and it somehow got activated?
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post #404 of 501
2/10/06 at 8:29am
AnthonyB, what is the best way to contact Mits about the problem? Did you call tech support or go through the dealer, etc?
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post #405 of 501
2/10/06 at 9:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Budget_HT View Post

My 48311 has a menu option to disable the front panel buttons, I guess to keep the grandkids from playing with them.

Perhaps you have the same option and it somehow got activated?

It did not get actived accidently but i think the electronics related to it are somehow involved. On the 55413 this option is buried in the vchip config menu. The manual says if you have it activated (locked) and you lose the remote that you can press and hold the menu key for 8 seconds to disable it. I did that and the front panel kinda worked, but it is like wires were randomly being crossed and the remote totally did not work after that. When I pulled the plug and waited a bit and plugged it back the remote will work again and the front buttons don't. At least I have an out if the remote gets lost. Thanks, Budget_HT.
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post #406 of 501
2/10/06 at 9:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn12341234 View Post

AnthonyB, what is the best way to contact Mits about the problem? Did you call tech support or go through the dealer, etc?

The front panel keys are lockable. Did you try pressing and holdding the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds or more? That is the unlock code.
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post #407 of 501
2/10/06 at 9:18am
Yeah, see my post right before yours.
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post #408 of 501
2/10/06 at 9:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn12341234 View Post

The manual says if you have it activated (locked) and you lose the remote that you can press and hold the menu key for 8 seconds to disable it.

The Mitsubishi technical service added this " This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds". That is all they have on the issue, unless you were unable to turn on the TV (no power). you might try to unplug the TV for 30-minutes and let it re-boot.
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post #409 of 501
2/10/06 at 10:36am
i know the front panel was not locked because you have define a vchip code before you can get to that menu and their was not one define when i checked it and it was not set to locked either. when i do press the menu and hold the menu button the remote stops working, but the buttons do work a sort of. it seems like they have water it them. different keys do different things at different times. if i remove AC for a minute the remote will work fine when i plug the tv back in but the front panel buttons don't work at all.

Thanks,
Shawn
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post #410 of 501
2/17/06 at 5:56pm
Anyone know how to shift the whole picture down an 1" or 2" on a WS65615? My over scan is OK but I need to shift the entire picture down a little.
I went into the convergince menu an adjusted the VSTA down. Is this the correct thing to do?
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post #411 of 501
3/3/06 at 10:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPowers View Post

I have a WS-B55, Best Buy i know i should have know better, Buy my son got a discount so i fell for it. Well now after being on for 120 seconds the CRTs go out of aligment, see attached photos.

Before I haul it to the shop i was hoping some one can tell me what happend. Also may be a SWAG on what it will cost to fix. Thanks

Just as a follow up on this repair.

It cost $249.00 to replace the two IC that control the convergence.
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post #412 of 501
3/7/06 at 7:36am
I am about to move back to Dallas, but this cross country move will include my 65813... I am really nervous about the effect that moving this thing will have on it.. Any suggestions? Any special packing requests I should have for the movers? I would assume that when I get to Dallas I will need to repeat the ISF calabration I had done on it a year ago.
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post #413 of 501
3/7/06 at 12:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercw2 View Post

I am about to move back to Dallas, but this cross country move will include my 65813... I am really nervous about the effect that moving this thing will have on it.. Any suggestions? Any special packing requests I should have for the movers? I would assume that when I get to Dallas I will need to repeat the ISF calabration I had done on it a year ago.

Obviously having the original box would help. I assume a moving company will be doing the movingif they use trucks with air-ride suspension, you should be pretty safe. Yes because of the geographical location change and global orientation change, the effects of geomagnetism will affect the geometry. Even the service menu convergence and geometry will be affected. The grayscale should be fairly intact, discounting the changes that have occurred in a years use since calibration. Red, Green and Blue phosphors all age at a different rate, thus the recommendation for a calibration tune-up after a year. I would recommend getting the TV setup and use for a while to get it acclimated to the new location, then, get a calibration and enjoy a great picture. You might also consider having the lenses and mirror cleaned and mechanical focus done after the move.
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post #414 of 501
3/7/06 at 1:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

Obviously having the original box would help. I assume a moving company will be doing the movingif they use trucks with air-ride suspension, you should be pretty safe. Yes because of the geographical location change and global orientation change, the effects of geomagnetism will affect the geometry. Even the service menu convergence and geometry will be affected. The grayscale should be fairly intact, discounting the changes that have occurred in a years use since calibration. Red, Green and Blue phosphors all age at a different rate, thus the recommendation for a calibration tune-up after a year. I would recommend getting the TV setup and use for a while to get it acclimated to the new location, then, get a calibration and enjoy a great picture. You might also consider having the lenses and mirror cleaned and mechanical focus done after the move.


The TV was bought in Oct 2004 and ISF Calabrated in Jan 05 (or about that time). I do not have the box, but will put the protective shield over the screen for the move. Most of my estimates have included the movers making some sort of crate for the TV.

I had actually thought that maybe it would be better to sell it and look for another TV when I got to Texas, but I really like the pic on this one and I am not 100% sure there is a digital display out there I am sold on.
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post #415 of 501
4/15/06 at 10:07am
Hi guys. My dad has a ws-65813 and it has done the random reboot thing a few times over the years. However, last night, it rebooted and failed to come back on. Also, he has a firewire cable between the TV and his computer, and noticed a lot of firebus errors around the same time that it rebooted for the last time.

Since the TV is several years old, I'm assuming its not under warranty anymore. I did some searching but the best I could come up with was the DM module could be faulty. Any ideas? Thanks.
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post #416 of 501
4/15/06 at 11:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hokiefan View Post

Hi guys. My dad has a ws-65813 and it has done the random reboot thing a few times over the years. However, last night, it rebooted and failed to come back on. Also, he has a firewire cable between the TV and his computer, and noticed a lot of firebus errors around the same time that it rebooted for the last time.

Since the TV is several years old, I'm assuming its not under warranty anymore. I did some searching but the best I could come up with was the DM module could be faulty. Any ideas? Thanks.

You should contact Mitsubishi to get the firmware upgrade. The upgrade is to help fix the reboot issue.

This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the device and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source)

There are a few known issues for No power

1. PC9A10 on the Power PCB
2. LED does not blink at plug in, possibly the reset switch, S7L20 on the Control PCB.
3. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. DM PCB
4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB
6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked, suspect the E2P PCB.

A Mitsubishi service tech should be able to fix this easily.
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post #417 of 501
4/16/06 at 11:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

You should contact Mitsubishi to get the firmware upgrade. The upgrade is to help fix the reboot issue.

This model is equipped with a self-diagnosis feature to help with diagnosis of shutdown problems. To activate this turn the unit on let it shutdown then press the device and menu buttons on the front panel simultaneously and hold them in for 5 seconds after 5 seconds the power LED on the front panel will blink a two digit sequence. This will be one set of blinks a short pause then another set of blinks, this will repeat 5 times. 1 - 2 = no error detected 2 - 1 = X-ray protect (high voltage or beam current) 2 - 2 = Short protect (short protect monitors low voltage supplies) 2 - 3 = Deflection protect (this could be loss of vertical or horizontal deflection) 2 - 4 = Vertical protect (usually loss of vertical from the source)

There are a few known issues for No power

1. PC9A10 on the Power PCB
2. LED does not blink at plug in, possibly the reset switch, S7L20 on the Control PCB.
3. LED does not stop blinking after plug in. DM PCB
4. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature; this can be mistaken as a no power condition. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds 5. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Suspect problems with the switches/buttons on the Control PCB
6. LED stops blinking after 70 seconds of plug in but will not power on. Keyboard is not locked, suspect the E2P PCB.

A Mitsubishi service tech should be able to fix this easily.


Thanks Glen for the info. Currently it is doing #3 on your list. Is it possible to upgrade the firmware in this state?

Also, I was thinking of removing and reinserting the DM module, by looking at the service manual, it seems pretty straightforward.

If all else fails we're gonna find a service tech to come out. Any recommendations for the Northern Virginia area (fairfax)?

Thanks again.
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post #418 of 501
4/17/06 at 9:47am
The Mits info on #3 is: "Verify the standby supplies, 12-volts at connector KA pin 17, 6-volts at KA pin 18 and the 28-volts at KA pin 19, if the supplies are present suspect the DM PCB part # 934C067002.

Re-inserting the DM might be an option, I hear poor connections can happen.
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post #419 of 501
4/18/06 at 9:00pm
73703 question.

will i be able to to use the dvi input to the tv from the hd dvd and blue ray players coming out to use the players full hd capability?

i was told, "As long as your mits dvi input has the HDCP algorithm you should be fine."

does this apply to the 73703?
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post #420 of 501
9/17/06 at 3:55pm
I have a Mitsu WS48413 RPTV that is a few years old now. I read here a long time ago about changing the remote control format so that the number 1 thru 9 could each designate a video input. I have an MX-500 remote that I need to update to add a video input and cannot remeber how I did that before. This is useful as the macro's that can be done do not have to be done using the Device key on the remote and selecting the source needed.

Anyone have any idea what I am talking about?
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