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CRMA/MM Superplex Formula

post #1 of 2678
Thread Starter 
CMRA/MM Superplex Formula

ATTENTION ATTENTION

Please click this link for the updated "Super Deluxe and a supply list" thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=346518

 

superplex formula.pdf 11.2880859375k . file
post #2 of 2678
This is only for the Plexi solution? The SDMM topcoat solution would be a welcome addition to this thread .
post #3 of 2678
Thread Starter 
If I am not mistaken I believe the topcoat solution is included as part D of this formula.
post #4 of 2678
nice effort.

Now, all you have to do is keep posting to this thread yourself whenever others stop, so it will not disappear down into the archives. When that happens, the lazy start asking you to post the same link all over again just to keep them from doing a proper search.

Too much popularity of a thread can result in the same thing happening, with countless posts pushing the original info so far back, whiny posters start asking for the info you so kindly posted to be reposted, just to save them the time that must be spent looking.

But even still, your effort will sure to be appreciated by those who can Spray, for that is the group that those instructions were intended. You can only hope such requests come from serious DIY'ers and not the merely curious.

For the "rollin'" crowd, they will have to reference several other posts that describe wall preparation, wet sanding of undercoats and finish coats, and the proper use of rolling technique to achieve a viable final finish.

I have such info saved in my PM box for just such requests.

WHAT HAVE YOU DONE?

Now, a whole new generation of converts will demand such info.

You Cad!
post #5 of 2678
No goo base coat?

Looks like depending on the size of Plexiglass. With Goo. Material will be about $200. excluding tools of course.
post #6 of 2678
Thread Starter 
I could always create a VB script to automatically post once every week to this thread, but I think the moderators would have a cow. By the way, if you are adding plexiglas into the mix for paints and goo, would plexiglas do anything for users who already have screens? I'm no scientist, I just like to ask the dumb questions ;o)
post #7 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by fkong777
No goo base coat?

Looks like depending on the size of Plexiglass. With Goo. Material will be about $200. excluding tools of course.


Where ya been? Silver metallic forms the Base Coat.

Goo is a choice to be made if you want a premixed Top Coat.

Goo has nothing to offer in the Silver Metallic genre, only Digital Grey (for high Lumen PJs) & Digital Grey Lite (for PJs under 1000 lumens)

You price figures are pretty much right on, using the SD/MM mix. Add another $120.00 if you opt to use both Goo base & Goo Top Coat.

being an unbiased kinda guy, and having enjoyed the results that Goo has to offer, it WOULD be interesting to see how Goo would hold up when used with Plexi.

Anybody wany to spend that extra money?

Didn't think so....................
post #8 of 2678
I'm so confused!! The only Plexiglass I could find in my size (104x45 inches) is $300!!!

Anyone have any plexiglass recommendations?
post #9 of 2678
And, if I find the Plexiglass, what's everyone attaching it to?

One problem is there are like 4 or 5 different threads on this subject, and it's kind of hard to search for some of this info... so, sorry if this has been covered already.
post #10 of 2678
did an Old yellow page search for Plastic sheet.

called an local plastic supplier. 4x8 1/8" Plexiglass sheet is $50 apx
1/4" is $98.

BTW 4x8 sheet on some site is shipped via truck so expect hefty shipping charges on a single sheets.

Also a Mirror closet door is about $125 at HD. but MM advised against mirror if that what you are thinking.
post #11 of 2678
What is the prefereable thickness of plexiglass for this screen forumula?

The cheapest price I've found is $250. And it doesn't seem feasible to spend $350 on this screen, unless I can find a cheaper source for Plexiglass... :-(
post #12 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by Joe Przybylski
And, if I find the Plexiglass, what's everyone attaching it to?

One problem is there are like 4 or 5 different threads on this subject, and it's kind of hard to search for some of this info... so, sorry if this has been covered already.

Almost any semi ridgid substrate.

1/4" or 3/8" cheepo paneling

Hardboard

3/8" Sheetrock

....of course, you'll be limited to doin so by the regular 4' x 8' sizes, so you'll have to do some peicing together to create larger demensions.

We nevetr said it was going to be easy. In fact, at the first, I asked CMRA WHO was going to take the first step and go for the record books?

His answer? "I'm still experimenting." CMRA Could stand for "Cover My ....well, you can finish it.

Anyway, it would not take much additional ridgidity to effect a "hangable" solution.
post #13 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by Joe Przybylski
What is the prefereable thickness of plexiglass for this screen forumula?

The cheapest price I've found is $250. And it doesn't seem feasible to spend $350 on this screen, unless I can find a cheaper source for Plexiglass... :-(


1/8"

Thicker has not even been experimented with.

I'd PM fkong777, get the tel. number of that Plastic Supplier, and order from him, or get a reference from them.
post #14 of 2678
Thread Starter 
Made an editing change in the formula, so there is less confusion.

Anyone tried Plexiglas on top of Professional Screen?
post #15 of 2678
If a clear acrylic paint was substituted for plexi, then to get close to 1/8" would take 10 gallons of the stuff and about 120 coats ( I think...expierence certainly not talking here ). So plexi is a bargain considering. But maybe a few coats of clear paint sandwiched inside the paint the wall scheme might assist a tiny bit or maybe the properties of the plexi can't be duplicated with clear acrylic. Sure can't duplicate the smoothness ( well some of us can't )
adobe rocks
post #16 of 2678
I believe 4x10 sheets are available at some supplier.

Look for Acrylite or Acrylic sheet. Plexiglass is a old brand that is expensive and more rare to find.

problaby find it at local plastic supply company or Sign material places.
Home Depot may take custom order items at service desk..

check here.
http://www.rjsign.com/Merchant2/merc...ry_Code=SUBSTR
post #17 of 2678
Please I have question about step D.

D. Minimum of 2 Sprayed Top Coats, using Goo CRT White or
equivalent. Forget any additional Grey of any type.

I take this to mean the top coats will be applied over the previous coats of SM and Grey Primer not the unpainted front of the acrylic sheet.

I have small sheet 2' x 2' of acrylic sheet, some left over SM, white, kilz2, spray equipment etc.. may give this a prototype test. Just want to be sure I have it right.

Thanks
post #18 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by Richum
Please I have question about step D.

D. Minimum of 2 Sprayed Top Coats, using Goo CRT White or
equivalent. Forget any additional Grey of any type.

I take this to mean the top coats will be applied over the previous coats of SM and Grey Primer not the unpainted front of the acrylic sheet.

I have small sheet 2' x 2' of acrylic sheet, some left over SM, white, kilz2, spray equipment etc.. may give this a prototype test. Just want to be sure I have it right.

Thanks

Nope. You only apply Top Coat to Silver when using a Wall or solid board

Heres the order.

Sray at least two coats of SM on one side, then follow up with a coating of the closely matching Grey primer on top of the Silver metallic. This greatly assists the SM in doing it's job, and negates the need to use even more SM.

Reverse the sheet and apply the Top coat to the oppisite side.

There should be the Back coat of SM, a sandwich of Plexi, and a top coat on the , well...., the top.

Be sure to set you gun to max fluid release, and at as high a pressure as possible. (60Lbs max.) Both paints are very thick. If your gun has a filter inside the delivery tube, expect to have to stop and rinse it a couple times or so during each coating. And strain the paint to remove any coagulated clumps.

I personally would remove the filter if you strain the paints, at least for the first coat.

Lastly, if you don't have a separate Regulator/Water filter in line, I'd get & use one before attempting any large project. And drain the air tank, under pressure, via it's shuttlecock valve to purge any existing water and rust residue.

All precautions help when spraying. Leave the "Fish Eyes" to the ones on CMRA's posts.
post #19 of 2678
Like this?

TC=top coat
SM=Silver Metallic
GP=Grey Primer
>=Direction of light

PJ>>Light >> TC1>TC2>(>>1/8" Plexi<<)< GP
post #20 of 2678
I have attached a figure of what I believe is the layering structure..is this correct. And feel free to add this figure to the document if it is correct. Picutres truely do say a thousand words...

-tReP
LL
post #21 of 2678
Thanks to the help of some very resourceful forum members (fkong777) I found in inexpensive ($55) piece of acrylic glass in the size I needed.

Problem is, the thinnest size available is 3/16". MississippiMan or CMRA, do you think this will be a problem?

Thanks alot everyone, for your help...
Joe
post #22 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by Joe Przybylski
Thanks to the help of some very resourceful forum members (fkong777) I found in inexpensive ($55) piece of acrylic glass in the size I needed.

Problem is, the thinnest size available is 3/16". MississippiMan or CMRA, do you think this will be a problem?

Thanks alot everyone, for your help...
Joe

Not at all. I have tested 3/16" also. For everyone's benefit please post the details ie, size, where to buy or order, etc. BTW, 3/32" also works well. 1/8" is not written in stone.
post #23 of 2678
Thanks, CMRA! I look forward to ordering and trying this out.

By the way, I have a Wagner PowerSprayer -- should I use this? Or should I just get myself a top-feed Gravity sprayer (I'm a little money-challenged right now, with the holidays). But if that's the way to go, I'd be willing to try... I want the best screen I can get.

One other question: this is the "M.U.P." or, the Mess-up Factor. Since, very rarely, do you get the perfect screen on the first try -- and since this plexiglass is kindof hard to come by, any tips for experimentation, before up-and-spraying this paint onto a $100 piece of material?

Also, MississippiMan has told me to attach the Plexiglass onto any "substrate" I think were the words, but attach with what? I'm sort-of confused with this.

I only want specific methods due to a problem I had "attaching" parkland plastics to drywall. It was alot harder than I thought and ended up costing me alot of money "making mistakes" until I found the right adhesion method.

Again, thanks for all your hard work and tests: this sounds truly amazing, and can't wait to try it.

Oh, and -- I have a Panasonic PT_L300U projector, which is 800 Lumens and 800 contrast ratio -- I think this projector should perform well with this screen since it's very comparable to your Z1! Yahoo!
post #24 of 2678
Thanks to all who took the time to answer my question. It happens that I have done a bit of technical writing and believe me it is best to not assume any thing when detailing a process.

For example, when I paint my house the last coat is known as the the top coat I suppose the same as the last piece of clothing one puts on in the winter.

Gonna give it a shot. I would only add one thing to MM excellent advice on spraying the paint, stir very well then strain and stir again.
post #25 of 2678
Is there anything special about using the Goo topcoat instead of using the white mixture listed in the pdf document?

I'm asking because I have some various white paints laying around from other projects that could be inexpensively supplemented to create the white topcoat listed as an alternative.
post #26 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by Joe Przybylski
Thanks, CMRA! I look forward to ordering and trying this out.

By the way, I have a Wagner PowerSprayer -- should I use this? Or should I just get myself a top-feed Gravity sprayer (I'm a little money-challenged right now, with the holidays). But if that's the way to go, I'd be willing to try... I want the best screen I can get.


Yahoo!

Not no, but hell no. Save that for painting the picket fence the neighborhood dog pisses on. Assuming you have a good air compressor, you can order a high quality gravity feed HVLP gun from Harbor Freight for around $40.00(on sale). HVLP have much lower over spray and some shoot latex too.
post #27 of 2678
CMRA:

Is this the type of spray gun you are talking about.

-tReP
post #28 of 2678
Quote:


Originally posted by Trepidati0n
CMRA:

Is this the type of spray gun you are talking about.

-tReP

Yep. That or an even higher PSI one. I have MM and Tryg to thank for showing me the way on this one. I pushed that gun to 60 PSI without issues. Some are rated up tp 90 PSI.
post #29 of 2678
What about spray gun rentals? Or compressor rentals if you purchase the gun itself? Not sure I can budget the cost of a system I may never use for any other project.
post #30 of 2678
CMRA did you use the standard 1.4 mm nozzle that is shipped with the Harbor Freight HVLP?

My compressor is only a 2HP and rated at 9.2 CFM which is below the minimum rated for the gun of 9.5 CFM. However, I can probably get by by increasing the pressure to 60 as recommended. May have wait some for the compressor to catch up. ;o)
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