Originally posted by mstmorse
I do know the different paints required, just questioning the ratio. In one place it says equal parts: 1 quart of the opal,1 quart behr ultra pure white, and 1 quart deep base. In another it says 2 quarts of the opal perlescence to 1 quart of each of the others. Just want to get it right. I have read so much praise about the MM LF that I wanted to try and see it for myself. I am continually upgrading things.
Also, Should I add thalo black also to the mix, along with the red oxide. The projector says 800:1 contrast ratio and 1200 ANSI Lumen?
The switch to 2:1:1 was made as an alternative to increasing the UPW-F to achieve a full gallon mix. The Pearlescence (when muted) is a desirable quality, and if any additional mix component is to be added, it would seem the logical choice. BUT, it could also result in an increase in refeltivity that could be behind a perchant for Scoobs' LF screen to hot spot. For sure, a lessening of the pearlescent quality would temper down that aspect. One should recall that the intial intention was for a muted, not increased reflectivity...greater than without, but not so great as if used "straight up".
Red Oxide IS a proven quality, but as mentioned above, IS ONLY requires for LCD PJs.
(a tip: When using the 1:1:1 ratio, have the HD paint Man catch the Red Oxide droplet on the corner of a piece of paper and then let what pigment will drop off the paper when tilted fall into the paint. Some will remain, but the lessening of Red Oxide will result in a slightly less pink mix.
Light Fusion (mirror) SuperDeluxe (plexi painted both sides) and SM/MM (multi coated wall) all work to enhance contrast WITHOUT the addition of Lamp Black. Lamp Black should be used ONLY when you plan to use a PJ with MORE than 1200 Lumens. Then, add it slowly for the basic mix amplifies all pigments added to it. Rather, I'd increase the number of coats (4-5) until "Hot spotting" (Halo-ing) disappears. (see above) 800:1 isn't a terrible CR value, and is exactly the type of spec that LF/SD/MM was designed to complement without the resulting "dulling" of the image that can result in the use of a "High Contrast" color such as "Grey". I'm planning tests using a 2200 lumen 20-HD in the very near future and those results should determine if much of any LB need to enter into the equation.
Trying a mix based on 1 part Pearlescent, 1 part Deep Base, and 2 parts Ultra Pure White should also work toward reducing the tendency to hot spot....but in the long run, getting the proper thickness of the MMud Mix overlaying the mirror is real challenge, and is easy enough to alter if needed. Adding ANY additional pigment of LB will result in a "Done Deal"; your mix would then be "Grey" and it won't ever be anything else but "Grey". Unless of corse, you cut it with another gallon of proper MMud Mix, which is something I had to do once when I added too much Red Oxide (1/24 Oz) Yeow! That was really PINK! Scary Pink.
Pink Goo. Funny how Ken suddenly came up with that development a couple months after SM/MM mix was published. (...or at least opted to divulge his -secret-) Really no pissing contest intended here, but is seems a little strange that some would look to Ken's results for justification when it IS a "Johnny Come Lately" development.
Anyway, the use of Red is widespread in "High End" screen mfg circles so I do not nor have I ever laid claim to thinking of it as an original idea. I'm just wise enough to include it where needed, that's all.
Humble, aint I?