Metallic Silver/ MississippiMud screen intructions - Page 7

3 coats minimum, with a 4th "Finish" coat. Eyeballing the surface to ascertain if too much "Grey" (mirror sheen) is showing through is the best deciding factor. The thinner the coats applied, the more coats will be required to reach the right coverage factor.

Wet sanding is required if:

You put up a coat that squirts globs of paint.
You apply too much paint in one area.
You put too much paint on your second or third coat.
You get a "Drip" or Orange peel effect that doesn't blend when dry.

Wet sanding is advisable between the third and "Finish Coat" if:

You want a Glass Smooth finish. Over several coats, although the finish is supremly even, it will have a "Dusty effect" that will offset gain a tiny bit. Smooth is better, but that's mostly my preference speaking.

The switch to 2:1:1 was made as an alternative to increasing the UPW-F to achieve a full gallon mix. The Pearlescence (when muted) is a desirable quality, and if any additional mix component is to be added, it would seem the logical choice. BUT, it could also result in an increase in refeltivity that could be behind a perchant for Scoobs' LF screen to hot spot. For sure, a lessening of the pearlescent quality would temper down that aspect. One should recall that the intial intention was for a muted, not increased reflectivity...greater than without, but not so great as if used "straight up".

Red Oxide IS a proven quality, but as mentioned above, IS ONLY requires for LCD PJs.
(a tip: When using the 1:1:1 ratio, have the HD paint Man catch the Red Oxide droplet on the corner of a piece of paper and then let what pigment will drop off the paper when tilted fall into the paint. Some will remain, but the lessening of Red Oxide will result in a slightly less pink mix.

Light Fusion (mirror) SuperDeluxe (plexi painted both sides) and SM/MM (multi coated wall) all work to enhance contrast WITHOUT the addition of Lamp Black. Lamp Black should be used ONLY when you plan to use a PJ with MORE than 1200 Lumens. Then, add it slowly for the basic mix amplifies all pigments added to it. Rather, I'd increase the number of coats (4-5) until "Hot spotting" (Halo-ing) disappears. (see above) 800:1 isn't a terrible CR value, and is exactly the type of spec that LF/SD/MM was designed to complement without the resulting "dulling" of the image that can result in the use of a "High Contrast" color such as "Grey". I'm planning tests using a 2200 lumen 20-HD in the very near future and those results should determine if much of any LB need to enter into the equation.

Trying a mix based on 1 part Pearlescent, 1 part Deep Base, and 2 parts Ultra Pure White should also work toward reducing the tendency to hot spot....but in the long run, getting the proper thickness of the MMud Mix overlaying the mirror is real challenge, and is easy enough to alter if needed. Adding ANY additional pigment of LB will result in a "Done Deal"; your mix would then be "Grey" and it won't ever be anything else but "Grey". Unless of corse, you cut it with another gallon of proper MMud Mix, which is something I had to do once when I added too much Red Oxide (1/24 Oz) Yeow! That was really PINK! Scary Pink.

"Gooey" Pink!


Pink Goo. Funny how Ken suddenly came up with that development a couple months after SM/MM mix was published. (...or at least opted to divulge his -secret-) Really no pissing contest intended here, but is seems a little strange that some would look to Ken's results for justification when it IS a "Johnny Come Lately" development.

Anyway, the use of Red is widespread in "High End" screen mfg circles so I do not nor have I ever laid claim to thinking of it as an original idea. I'm just wise enough to include it where needed, that's all.

Humble, aint I?

For now.....................................

Let's see.

Two 9' x 5' LF screens w/pink MMud mix

Testing will be done with SE 50-HD 1100 lumens @1700:1 CR

AND a SE 20-HD 2200 Lumens @900:1 CR

I can only hope my batteries and memory cards can stand the strain.

Good Golly!

I have two sets of 4 -AA Rechargables @ 1800mh and two 128 Meg Cards

And I STILL use 'em up when taking 3 shots at a time (Exp. Bracketing) @ 2400x1800 res. I can only get about 70 shots per card at that resolution, and when you engage the processor in the camera and ask it to do all that "cumputin', it soaks up battery life like a Mississippian guzzles free beer.

.....and that's a lot of Beer!

A generous Offer. Batteries Not Included, ...........it's still a Generous Offer. Tripod will be there already, so TBNT. I'll even get by with 240 Megs of storage, for the Shoot-out only lasts so long, and what do I care about sum stinkin' Da-light screen, or some Goo-ey Pink mess.


1. Remember my Camera is a Toshiba M81 4.2 MP Circa 2001 As of present, with a recent Firmware upgrade, 128 meg Smart Media is as big as I can go.

2. I can go down to 1600 x 1200, and do so if I'm taking Close ups and Macros. The lower res reduces the amount of light required to get an even exposure, thus Bracketed Photos are grouped even more closely as far as exposure times. But even though I use a lot of space, and even though I toss more shots than keep by a 3:1 margine, when a 2400x1800 shot hits the mark with my camera, I revel in the end result. Ask CMRA if my little $299.00 on Ubid Wonder doesn't surprise?

3. Hey, I "disclamed" any resposibility in advance about my recent shots at the show. Me was all I had, and with precious little time to do it in as well. Try stopping the image at such a show, and herding people from crossing your path. Tripod indeed. Haarrrrruuuumppppp!

4 As for Full Framin' my shots, I still smart from comments when I did so. Seems CMRA can do it with compunction, but if I do it, it's, "Can't you show more of the screen and surrounding areas?" & "We have no reference to go by", as if my/our statements of screen size were subject to conjecture.
Once again, Harrrrrruuuuuuummmmmmmmppppppp !!!!!!

But tonight I will do so. To a Fault.