Metallic Silver/ MississippiMud screen intructions - Page 8

MississippiMan,

Greetings from a fellow Mississippian. I am preparing to begin work on a
SM/MM screen and have a question. Here in Corinth we don't have a HD but
we do have a Lowes. Is it possible for me to substitute paints found at Lowes
without sacrificing the quality of the screen? If so, do you have any suggestions as to which
Lowe's paints I should substitute for the HD brands.

Thanks,

m00d

You Mississippi guys sure do it the hard way. Heck, all you gotta do is go to the Behr website and get the product code numbers, take 'em over to Lowes and have them cross referenced to their paints. On the other hand maybe you boys is just a little smarter than the rest. Good excuse for not workin' and instead go beer drinkin' and tell 'manly' stories.

Looks like the Harbor freight 2.2mm nozzles are back in stock. I hope to finish my screen this weekend!

Behr paints can be ordered from them directly. I have done twich already and they shipped w/o shipping charges...as I told them my local HD didn't carry the SM. So just find the contact # on their site and talk to them.

Just finished rolling third layer of SM. Seems to be streaky. What could be causing this? Will this show up when I start to put the MM on? Any suggestions? Hoping this was normal. Looked streaky in the pictures posted at the beginning of this thread.

Red-
Don't despair. Streaking won't diminish the effect. Others have also experienced this and once the MMud is on evenly you won't notice the SM.

Hey Scoob,
Not another question, yep, you had mentioned on another post that you were planning on possibly going back to a SM/MM LFWS, I believe because of the size limitations/$$$ of the mirror route? That is my plan after researching mirrors, first surface, acrylic, and the S.S. Architect mirrors. Anyway, I'm curious since the SM is rated at 50 Sq Ft/quart, according to the specs, are you planning on spraying with Behr's recommended 2oz water/flotrol per quart? CMRA mentioned that I should be able to spread out one quart to accomodate the 3 layers of SM MMan describes in his instructions? Behr says not to thin the SM while rolling, so do people that take the roller route have to purchase 2-3 quarts to accommodate lets say a 4.5' x 8' screen (36sq ft) to get 3 layers? $$$$$

Just an fyi, I have been watching movies like crazy since i got my Z2 the other day. Currently using a white semi-gloss, yuck-sheeny-textured, wall but surprisingly it looks darn awesome. I can't imaging how things will change once I get the DIY screen done. Last night I invited one of my sci-fi friends over and we watched 2001 A Space Odyssey. The whole time he was just in awe, he said "What is wrong with that picture, why would I change it." I can't wait to invite him over once I get the SM/MM LFWS done.

ps: scoob, I hope scrappy scrappy juniorette is doing fine!

Randy

Randy, you wrote:
"The whole time he was just in awe, he said "What is wrong with that picture, why would I change it." "

I too had a guest over last night watching an unfamiliar movie. She requested much the same everytime I fiddled with the PJ trying to get the image 'just right'.

Over time, we know our equipment and know its potential and feel unsatisfied when the image comes up short of our expectations. So also it is with our screens. The occassional visitor never develops this. But, you will.

Best wishes on your new SM/MM and Happy Easter.

Randy,
I've never had an issue with the amount of SM required for rolling. I've only had 2 quarts and I still have a large amount of my 2nd qt. That includes all of my experimenting and actual screen prep. Don't know why they say only 50 sq ft., but I figure I have more than enough to cover my SM/MM redo.

I've also never thinned the SM for my purposes, just roll with a 6" foam roller.

Lil KK is doing ok, thanks very much.

I can relate, ever since I was a kid, I always liked tweaking with adjustments to get the best possible outcome. Another movie we watched recently was "Open Range" AR 2.35 with Costner/Duvall/Benning, kinda reminded me of the old Eastwood classics, anyway I had the Z2 on "Natural Wide" screen setting. The entire movie I was constantly observing the screen, tweaking the focus, contrast, gamma, etc... and pissing off my guest and my wife Anyway, I noticed off to the left and right maybe 10% of the screen the images would slightly distort or stretch with minor out-of-focus issues, but were dead on accurate everywhere else. So I'm thinking dang, all this take about focus uniformity on other threads and worrying about if my Z2 had issues, NOT, just a few clicks of the "Screen Format" button brought me to "Full" mode and bingo the picture was crisp and in focus from corner to corner.

The only issue, and I think is a result of just using my white semi-gloss wall is that the black bars and entire background when not watching a movie, can be seen. I know the Z2 has higher contrast ratings then previous models, so i'm hoping when I upgrade to the SM/MM LFWS that the blackbars will get darker and the backgroud will be less noticeable. When we were watching the space scenes in 2001 A Space Odyssey, things looked darn good, but is was difficult to get the black space to look dark enough with the sheen of my wall.....

thanks all, Randy

Thanks, Scoob
It may have been a typo on the Behr website as the Pearlescent stuff, which I believe is also in the same special faux area, was rated at 250+ sq. ft.. I can sure roll the primer/SM coats with no problem, I was just thinking, heck I went out and purchased this nice HVLP gun, why not use it for the SM and possibly the primer coats to get the best coverage with less chance of uneveness or error. It came with a 1.8mm tip for heavier paints and primers....

Randy

........................
for all of you that have not completed those wonderful Federal 1040's yet, turn off those projectors and get e-filing

Asta la Vista Baaaaby

Just a note to say that I have completed my HT and have a SM / MM screen to show for it. Mississippi Man's instructions were excellent and it went on without a hitch. I definitely see a brighter image than my preceeding gray screen.

I am not good at Screenshots. I don't have a particularly high res. camera, Nikon 900S which is only a 1.3MP job. Nor do I own a tripod. I have some shots, though. Take a look at:

http://www.chriswhitworth.com/complete.htm

I am very pleased. I think I may have gotten the coats of MM a little thin. In some spots I THINK I can see a glimmer of silver. May go out and get a drop cloth and put on another coat. Seems a bit anal, as the picture is fabulous. Watching The Masters in HD last weekend was wild. The lush colors brought out by the overcast day down there were something to behold. My daughter pointed out how bright the colors were of the gallery's clothing greenside. She was right. Almost surreal.

Mississippi Man, I owe you though will probably never meet you. Thanks very much for your efforts.

Does anyone know the Australian name for these paints used for the SM/MM screen? I've taken the various paint names to a local paint shop and he had never heard of the names (we don't have Behr in Australia).
Any Australians out there figured out the Australian equivalents?

Hey MM, CMRA, or Scoob, or anybody.....Does the MMud formulation have a shelf life before it loses it's magic? The reason I ask is that I still have most of the gallon left I used for testing, I purchased it a few weeks ago from HD. I have been flipping it over every few days and plan on restirring it before my final application on the drywall screen. I just found some 54" x 12' drywall at the local Menards, sweet, and I was going to wait until after I hung the screen section before I started my painting. Just not sure how long this stuff can sit before it expires like the Foster beer MM loves so much.

Oops almost forgot, how much lamp black do you add to the kilz primer to match or slightly exceed the grey properties in the SM?

thanks Randy

Sirquack
Are you forgetting that this is a commercially purchased house paint and not a magic formula mixed in a lab with secret powers and ingredients !!!

and any and all questions regarding longevity and mixing compatibility will be able to be confirmed by reading the back of the can!!! it has the exact same shelf life as all acrylic paints if kept from open air it can last years, the only thing that can happen is the mica will drop out of the mix so just before and during using you should stir as with all metallic glazes or paints with metalics in the mix . Secondly being a primer it can usually only accept so much pigment!!! it is a complete formula already so the usual rule of thumb is about half tint of what you can put in your regular paint and that is all that is needed to help with initial colour cover. You do not need to exceed the darkness of your next coat of sm , as sm is actually the undercoat of you mud mix. Your primer coat lightly tinted will help in coverage but it is only used to help in the aid of the silver metallic adhering on to your drywall . There will be no effect on your final coat from this primer . Now i have one question why are you going out and actually purchasing a 54" by 12' piece of drywall .? i can see using it ,if it is existing on your wall to save some hassle and cost, but in all likelihood you might even ding it just getting it into your house !!!!! it is floppy, heavier than mdf, and the surface is soft . One thing you might have not realized about drywall is that on the horizontal edges it is eased down to accept a taped joint so that three inches on the top and bottom of the sheet need to be filled . I am not trying to be critical of your choices and i know you are trying to follow instructions someone gave you . but reconsider the drywall .

Bruce

After weeks of practicing, I have begun my sm/mm wall. I expect that it is going to take a LONG time. I put the primer on yesterday. I have repainted my scren 6 times so I had a lot of paint built up. I sanded the primer today with 60 grit paper and an electric sander. I am tired. I put on one last coat of the primer using a 3/16" roller. It is SMOOTH.

If I manage to keep all of my coats this smoth it is going to be perfect.

Tomorrow, wet sand and first coat of sm.

I'll keep you up to date.

Matt

Guys, you can use a cheap heat gun or even a hair dryer to speed up those drying times. When I painted my first ME screen, I put on three coats in less than a hour, each coat was fully dryed before I put another on.

All that sanding tires me out. I need 24 hours to rest.

Thanks Bruce for your feedback.

I'll try to explain my questions. First of all, yes I realize these are commercial paints from HD, I've used Behr for years. You are correct, normally one would follow the directions on the label regarding shelf life. When I mentioned, magic, I did not mean it literally, but rather in a joking way to the people most familiar with it, meaning Scoob, MM, and CMRA or others who may have let the product set around for an extended time. Since MM consists of 3 parts of differant Behr products, I was seeking advice from people most familiar, to see if there are any concerns I need to be aware of, for example, seperation etc....

My questions regarding the lamp black to the primer were based on discussions I've had with MM himself via PM, in his thread instructions he states when using Kilz Interior primer, add the Lamp Black until you come close to matching or slightly exceed the depth of Grey apparent in the SM. Since that came from the horses mouth, I guess I'll go with what he says. the basis of my question was to get an idea of how much of the lamp black was needed to complete this step.

Finally, in regards to drywall, there is no reconsidering needed. I am quite familiar with drywall also, as are my many friends and brother in-law who do finishing work for a living. Anyway, the purpose of using 54" x 12' Supper Wide drywall from Menards, not just one piece, is two fold: first of all it is designed for 9' ceilings. You lay the pieces horizontal, not vertical as most people do. 54" + 54" = 108" or 9' So based on this, you have a lot less seams and it is easier to mud, in addition to less piecing.

thanks again, Randy

i know the reason 54" board was developed for . People have stopped hanging board vertically a long time ago .I was under the understanding you were going to place a single 54" wide board on top of your drywalled wall and use that as a screen horizontally, i did not realize you were drywalling your whole 9' basement. your revised post is a little clearer, well anyway i wouldn't tint your primer too much it is not good for it phone a kilz rep if you are concerned but priming a white primer to darker than the silver metallic sounds counter productive but good luck . sorry for the misunderstanding some times it is hard to get the comedy or the seriousness from just reading here and once i figure out this keyboard i will post more smilies as well . I wonder why mississippi would only tell you about this darker primer via pm aren't all screens created equal ?
Bruce
ps how big of a screen are you planning ?

no problem man, sometimes I'm not real clear in my typing, grammer, and punctuation. Actually, your not to far off, since I am planning on a 54 x 96 screen, I was thinking about placing one of the drywall sheets in the exact location where the image will be displayed, to redude the chance of seams being seen. I am by no means an expert mudder. One of my friends mentioned I could mud the entire area where the screen will be and then smooth it down so it is as smooth as a baby's butt I'm not sure how I'll do it yet, I'm sure there won't be any problems as long as it is mudded good some good goats of primer then SM then MMud. Heck right now I'm using a white semi-gloss, yuck, wall and suprisingly my Z2 looks awesome right out of the box, you just have to ignore the textured walls... I'm assuming most people roll the primer coats rather then using a HVLP gravity gun? Actually I have a tip for my gun that is for primer...

Randy

ps: Take off eh, you hoser