The Official AVS Antenna and Related Hardware Topic! - Page 181

It should be enough to handle it!

It's not like he's going to be swinging the antenna around every hour or so.( your not are you ? )

I had a Large Combo on mine for several years,before a large tree branch took out the antenna, never had a problem. Even with the Brutal Midwest Winters.

dabl.

(I'll disclaim this, since I do not claim to be an expert.)

If you are living at a max distance of only 4 miles, I'm thinking a pre-amp isn't going to do you much good, as your signal strength should be pretty much maxed out. (What do you see as signal strengths?)

The way most pre-amplifiers work, is that they have two pieces. The first piece, the amplifier, goes as close to the antenna as possible. The second piece, is sometimes referred to as a power injector, and consists of a DC block on one side (the side you connect to your TV or capture card), and then an A/C adapter power brick, or input for power, which it then sends out on the other side of the coax, towards the antenna. (In other words, it's sending the DC power for the amplifier over the coax.) Then, the amplifier receives the DC power, and also has another DC block on the other side of the amplifier, to prevent DC from going to the antenna.

So, long story short, you don't need an outlet close to the pre-amp, in most cases.

My initial guess, is that a distribution amplifier would be what you are after. I'd just go with a single in, single out, amplifier, and then use passive splitters after the amp.

I see, interesting. I'm not at home to check. I also wrote them down. The signal strength display on the Samsung is a simple incremental segmented bar type graph without any numerics, but in general the number of lit up segments averaged 8 out of 10 so perhaps I'm doing ok there.


extremely helpful and makes perfect sense thanks!


Ok, but is there some reason I shouldn't simply get a 1 in four out distribution amplifier for each source (antenna, cable) given the number of display devices I want to feed? Is there some disadvantage of using one of those over passive splitters? To me pasive splitters seem like a really lame way of doing things. I can't stand the idea of reducing a signal level that already seems anemic. I know that the first 'high quality 2 Ghz splitter' I bought was completely useless because the cable modem wouldn't function with it. I know the cable modem can only withstand something like a 3db loss in signal and uses a 'special' leg of my 3 way splitter that only presents such a small loss versus something like 7db on the other legs etc. The whole passive splitter thing seems to me to be a very feeble solution and a powered multitap distribution box sounds (with presumeably no or much less loss on each leg sounds MUCH more appealing. But that's why I'm asking, perhaps there's something I'm missing......

If all of your components are located in one place, then a distribution amplifier with multiple output ports would work well. The problem you get into, is that if you need to amplify the signal, it is better to have all the legs coming off the amplifier to be the same length, so that the signals relative to each other, are the same. If you have 3 sources in one place, and the other one 100 or more feet away, then the one furthest away will have a weaker signal.

Usually, the best way to run signals through a house, is to locate the incoming coax signal, near the center of all connection points. Then, if amplification is needed, make sure it is done at this point. From that point, split the signal off to go to different locations in the house, trying to keep a single coax going to more than one location, then splitting it at the last possible place, of course, keeping the two legs of the split, the same length.

It's not always easy to do this, especially in a house already built.

You would probably be okay running a multiple port distribution amplifier, since it sounds like most of your stuff will be in one place. What would be nice, is a distribution amp that had individual attenuators (or gain adjustments) built-in to each outgoing port, so that it wouldn't matter how long the legs are, relative to each other. You could tune each leg to have the same signal strength.

This guide as a lot of useful information in it.

http://www.channelmaster.com/pdf/Ant...ation%20pdf%22

You can get the Terk SS-1000 at Best Buy, and if it works well for you, you can return it and get it for a bit over half the price online. It should normally pick up channel 13 decently at that short of a distance.

Those trees may or may not be a problem. All you can do is try.

dabl,

We're not too far apart, as I live just south of Carmel. Also, I'm 3 miles from the WTHR tower and around 5 miles from most of the other towers. My past tests with distribution amps has been disastrous. WAY TOO MUCH overload from the nearby locals. I'm testing a unit now (at work now, and I don't remember brand/model info) which even allows for manual adjustments, and even with the gain turned down all the way there is still too much signal overload.

The only thing similar to a distribution amp that I've had success with is the Motorola Signal Booster which you can see at the CC website.

Send me a private message sometime if you'd care to chat more. Thanks.

Steve

Geogecko and Steve, thanks mucho for the info, greatly appreciated.

Steve, you'll no doubt see my cross post in the local Indy HDTV AVS forum (won't make a habit of that) and I sent you a PM.

--Don

FOLLOW UP:

After berating Solid Signal for sending me an open box preamp instead of a new one, I feel it's only right for me to post their apologetic email I received after they read my Bizrate comments about them.

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"We truly apologize for your mishap. Sometimes our products come tested from the manufacturer and we, like you, expect them to be new and unblemished.

We care about our customers and we value our customer service reputation. May we send you a new replacement item with a prepaid freight label? All you would have to do is send back the item you currently have with the prepaid label we send you. Alternatively, if your item is already in use, and, since you feel you received an "Open Box Item, we can change the charge amount to our true open box price of $42.99.

Please advise me on your decision
Again, we apologize and hope you are willing to test Solid Signal's desire to be your online source for consumer electronics."

============================================

Since mine "is already in use" I'll opt for the reduced price (although I still prefer to buy most everything new).

I have to give them props for trying to make good

Well, if this doesn't do it, I give up. Here's a preview review of the Lacrosse Amplified antenna.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8338974

That's actually a great idea. I'm going to check it out this weekend.

What's the deal with these anchor bolts that the J-Mount came with? How do you install these? Drill a hole the same size as the hole in the J-Mount foot, and then jam them in and tighten them down?

I've never seen anything like them. I was expecting lag screws...

Is this suitable for roof mounting? I would guess I'd want to be careful to *not* hit any rafters in this case...

Think those anchor bolts are for if you have to mount in Brick or Concrete?
Take a pic to show us.

I hope not. Seems a little strange they would provide that, versus something to mount it in wood...

I believe those are called tapcons. They are designed for concrete/brick only. With the force they can exert, I would not use them on brick personally.

No...those are Sleeve Anchors. Used for Concrete or Brick.

Sleeve Anchor

You'll have to buy some "Lag Screws" if they didn't come with it,if your mounting into Wood !



BTW:

These are Tapcons

Hmm...guess I'll be making a trip to Lowe's then.

Seems a bit odd that they would give you mason attachement hardware, with an HD antenna J-Mount, does it not? I mean, I'd figure most people would be mounting into wood...

So, anyone know what size lag screws I should get? These sleeve anchors are 1/4", so I assume I should get 1/4" lag screws, about 2 inches long.

Thanks for the assistance.

If the Hole Diameters on the Mounting Foot is only 1/4" then go for that, but a 3/8" would probably be better( you would have to drill them out some)?

Will do. I'll just take the mounting foot with me, and see what fits. I might consider drilling them out, but I assume the mounting foot and mast are made of steel, so if I do drill it out, it could expose the metal, and allow it to rust if it wasn't sealed. I bought some roofing sealant, so I plan on gooping the screws, and probably also around the mounting foot.

I found these nice little mounting plates that you can use to mount your mounting foot too (hmm...a mounting foot for a mounting foot), but it is a plate, that has two other plates that slide under two different shingles, where you screw them down, then flip the shingle back over it. Then it has a plate that you mount the mounting foot to.

Ah, found the link. It's near the bottom.
http://www.hometech.com/video/satmount.html

Too late for my today installation, as long as it doesn't start raining...

Goldrich - you obviously don't need a distribution amp. your signal is already strong enough. You just need to use a splitter...

I just seen that Type of Mounting Plate at my Local Menards,,,On Sale too !!

Menards

But they don't have in Texas

Good Luck and let us know how it goes !!

Figures.

Well, I'm going to check the local Home Depot and Lowe's to see if they have one of these, otherwise, I may just wait and order one. I think mounting one of the mounting plates would make it easier to install.

http://www.rstcenterprises.com/find_...phtml?state=TX


http://www.rstcenterprises.com/insta...training.phtml

Thanks Doug. I came across that as well, but I called a couple of those ABC Supplies, and Bradco's, and they only appear to be open during the week...

Looks like if HD or Lowe's doesn't have them, I'll be waiting until next weekend.

I like the idea of being able to remove the antenna later, if we move, and just leaving the mount there...

All the Phoenix channels are on one mountain and live about 895 feet above sea level. I think I can receive these channels with no problem with either a Zenith ZHDTV1 HDTV-UHF Digital Indoor Antenna (Silver and Black) or a Terk Technology HDTVi VHF/UHF HDTV Indoor Antenna. Is there a advantage of one over the other or is there a better one out there in that price range. It must be indoors. No trees or high buildings just desert. Is there any advantage getting one of them amplified or not.


* yellow - uhf KDTP-DT 39 DAY PHOENIX AZ TBD 91° 28.3 39
* yellow - uhf KPPX-DT 51.1 i TOLLESON AZ 91° 28.4 52
* yellow - uhf KTVW-DT 33.1 UNI PHOENIX AZ 92° 28.3 34
* yellow - uhf KTVK-DT 3.1 IND PHOENIX AZ 91° 28.3 24
* yellow - uhf KPHO-DT 5.1 CBS PHOENIX AZ 91° 28.4 17
* yellow - uhf KPNX-DT 12.1 NBC MESA AZ 92° 28.3 36
* yellow - uhf KAET-DT 8.1 PBS PHOENIX AZ 92° 28.3 29
* yellow - uhf KNXV-DT 15.1 ABC PHOENIX AZ 92° 28.3 56
* green - uhf KASW-DT 61.1 WB PHOENIX AZ 91° 28.3 49
* green - uhf KSAZ-DT 10.1 FOX PHOENIX AZ 91° 28.3 31
* green - uhf KUTP-DT 45.1 UPN PHOENIX AZ 91° 28.5 26
* red - uhf KPAZ-DT 21.1 TBN PHOENIX AZ 91° 28.3 20

I mounted a Channel master 9512A on top of a 5 foot mast, that is attached by means of two-8" stand-offs, to the eave of my house. The two stand-off brackets are approx 18" apart, and into solid wood with 1-1/2 #10 lag bolts. It ends up about three feet above my roof line. I then mounted a RadioShack UHF Yagi (a tad shorter than the CM3222) about 8" from the top of another 5 foot mast. See the attached jpeg

Only afterwards did I notice one of my install guides suggests only using a 3 foot mast above the rotor. All the illustrations in the guide show big vhf/uhf antennas.

Would it be best to:
a) cut the mast and mount the antenna lower.
b) lower the antenna on the mast to 3' above the rotor and leave the mast above the antenna.
c) move the lower stand-off to the bottom of the gable vent, lower the rotor's mast approx 2 two feet, leaving the antenna mounted near the top of the 5 foot mast.
d) do nothing, its a small antenna

a and b are possible, c is a little harder since I don't have the ladder I borrowed anymore to get to the gable vent (I get to the roof from a lower part of the roof)

I don't want to put undue strain on rotor or the mounts. Thanks in advance for any advice.

For that size antenna,there is No problem ,even though it isn't a Winegard ! ( D )

Thanks for the advice, figured it was OK but much better experience here in these forums. I haven't finished the install yet. Still need to get the cables under my house and up into the floor or wall to my TV. Significantly improved reception with this set-up. I was having lots of multipath problems with the Zenith Silver sensor, despite having good signal strength.

Do you get any leaks in the roof where the legs attach?

I currently can pick up all of my local HD broadcasts with a cheapo $7 unamplified rabbit-ears-plus-hoop style antenna plugged into my HDTivo. We have 4 UHF channels and 1 VHF (frequency 10). The problem is that if I orient the antenna to pick up the one VHF channel best, the UHF channels suffer, and vice-versa. The circular "hoop" doesn't turn independently of the "ears" (can't expect much for $7 bucks I guess). So I figure I could upgrade to something a little better and be able to pick up all 5 channels without constantly fussing with the antenna. I tried the Zenith "Silver Sensor", and while that worked superbly for the UHF channels, it couldn't see the VHF one at all (no surprise I guess).

Any recommendations for a decent indoor antenna that can pull in both UHF and VHF? It doesn't have to be the best UHF antenna ever made - just needs to be adequate, and allow me to orient the UHF and VHF independently. That, or any suggestions for combining a decent indoor VHF antenna with the Zenith Silver Sensor (presumably a splitter could do the trick)?

Thanks,
Sean

The Zenith/Philips/Gemini Silver Sensor is UHF only.

The Terk HDTVi and HDTVa (amplified) are very similiar, except they add collapsible rabbit ears for VHF reception:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=br_ss_hs...0&Go.y=0&Go=Go

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If you try to combine a VHF antennas (e.g. rabbit ears or folded dipole) with a UHF antenna using a typical RF Splitter/Combiner, you will have 4 dB of insertion loss for each antenna.

What you should use is a VHF/UHF Combiner that has very low loss (typically 0.5 dB) for each antenna, such as the fol:
http://www.pacificcable.com/Picture_...taName=201-604