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Behr "Silverscreen" Paint - Page 45

post #1321 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd03blown View Post

subscribing....

.....but don't talk about or ask the question you posed on Capn' Proton's thread!


You'll get a Home Brew Beer Bottle chucked atcha!


............empty.....of course! Waste not....want not....
post #1322 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

.....but don't talk about or ask the question you posed on Capn' Proton's thread!


You'll get a Home Brew Beer Bottle chucked atcha!


............empty.....of course! Waste not....want not....

LOL, I am just reading in this thread to learn more about this paint and how it compares to the RX Mudd that you have suggested I use
post #1323 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd03blown View Post

LOL, I am just reading in this thread to learn more about this paint and how it compares to the RX Mudd that you have suggested I use

Read on. It's a Night-to-Day different animal. It has no pretensions as to being anything but a very good, simple to use "One Can Wonder" that has found a place in probably 1000s of Homes.....really.

And that's "RS-MaxxMudd", ya Cretin!

Don't mention it again....I can hear the bottles clinkin' already!
post #1324 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Read on. It's a Night-to-Day different animal.

And that's "RS-MaxxMudd", ya Cretin!

Don't mention it again....I can hear the bottles clinkin' already!

HAHA, sorry about the spelling issues .

I assume the MaxxMudd would be better than this Behr stuff since its more involved etc. Don't worry I am going with the MaxxMudd
post #1325 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd03blown View Post

HAHA, sorry about the spelling issues .

I assume the MaxxMudd would be better than this Behr stuff since its more involved etc. Don't worry I am going with the MaxxMudd

Wrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr............. ..Crash!

That one just missed!

SS is really good, especially when you have adequate lumens and the knowledge/ability to calibrate your PJ to that particular shade of Gray.

Many have altered SS with additives ranging from Polyurethane to various Metallics. Trouble is...it ain't SS anymore when that happens.

SS is...and will remain a valid choice for Noobs just starting out....and even more so if they own a new Panny or Epson.....or a Uber Lumen SD-PJ (1280 x 768/800)

For instance...I bought a gallon of Benjamin Moore Interior Latex (Flat) on sale at Lowes yesterday for just $7.50 Had I wished to...and had I asked for it to be tinted to SS, I could of then spray painted myself a 16' x 9' wall and shot at it with a 2600 Lumen Optoma WXGA DLP PJ ....and the end result would leave you speechless.

For all of $7.50

As I said...it's a good choice for budget minded Noobs looking for simplicity and proven end results they can build on.




Now...put those Bottles down Mr B! You and SS, ya both got yer propers.....
post #1326 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Wrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr............. ..Crash!

That one just missed!

SS is really good, especially when you have adequate lumens and the knowledge/ability to calibrate your PJ to that particular shade of Gray.

Many have altered SS with additives ranging from Polyurethane to various Metallics. Trouble is...it ain't SS anymore when that happens.

SS is...and will remain a valid choice for Noobs just starting out....and even more so if they own a new Panny or Epson.....or a Uber Lumen SD-PJ (1280 x 768/800)

For instance...I bought a gallon of Benjamin Moore Interior Latex (Flat) on sale at Lowes yesterday for just $7.50 Had I wished to...and had I asked for it to be tinted to SS, I could of then spray painted myself a 16' x 9' wall and shot at it with a 2600 Lumen Optoma WXGA DLP PJ ....and the end result would leave you speechless.

For all of $7.50

As I said...it's a good choice for budget minded Noobs looking for simplicity and proven end results they can build on.




Now...put those Bottles down Mr B! You and SS, ya both got yer propers.....


Hmmm..with that said since I have a Mits HC6800 that puts out a good bit of lumens is this SS a possibility for me as well? My only question is how is this SS compared to the MaxxMudd and ambient light?
post #1327 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd03blown View Post

Hmmm..with that said since I have a Mits HC6800 that puts out a good bit of lumens is this SS a possibility for me as well? My only question is how is this SS compared to the MaxxMudd and ambient light?



As I said .......two different animals. Of course RS-MM will top out above SS. It's a well known "Metallic based" performer...it is a very light Silver Gray shade, and it sports a gain factor of 1.3 SS? .85 at most. (...as originally prescribed...)

But just about "any other" medium/dark neutral gray similar to SS, when hit with enough lumens, will show a far deeper level of Blacks than any light Silver Gray. And it comes with a simple built in Ambient Light resistance. But all that only with Uber Lumens. What you might lose is sad indeed. infinite detail within shadows....all crushed down in favor of obtaining "too deep" blacks.

All the new PJs that employ Iris-oriented Contrast assistance all darker through attenuation.

Oh damn....not that again!

The introduction of reflective elements, Polys, etc...all make a great many things work together and do those many things better than a stock Gray paint. But all that stuff..... it just ain't "THE" Silver Screen as this Thread's Author would have it be considered. Simplicity. Extremely Low $$$. Paint it on almost anything. While it's not a "Reference" Screen, with a well matched PJ and good content, it will shock people with it's $$$-to performance ratio.
Can you have better? Oh yes indeed. Will it cost $7.50? Sorry.

But'cha know really, discussions such at this are boarderline OT on this thread as well. It's my fault really....I supposed I encouraged repetitive questions & answers with my initial response. But in my defense...my first posted reply to you did say "Don't...", didn't it?




Go Home.
post #1328 of 1439
MM
I have learned a great deal reading all of these pages and am new to this hobby. You seem to be the book of knowledge here and was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions to make my life easy! First, I am decideing between an epson 8500 and the new Panny ae4000. My screen size will be 112 by 63 in a newly finished basement with a room of app 18 by 24. The wall was left smooth for the screen and was wondering should I just paint SS on it with no additives or mix a little poly 20% or so. The throw distance will be approx 16 feet with little or no ambient lighting. Many thanks in advance I am continually learning and don't want to anger my wife by having to paint the screen several times
post #1329 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocanuck View Post

MM
I have learned a great deal reading all of these pages and am new to this hobby. You seem to be the book of knowledge here and was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions to make my life easy! First, I am decideing between an epson 8500 and the new Panny ae4000. My screen size will be 112 by 63 in a newly finished basement with a room of app 18 by 24. The wall was left smooth for the screen and was wondering should I just paint SS on it with no additives or mix a little poly 20% or so. The throw distance will be approx 16 feet with little or no ambient lighting. Many thanks in advance I am continually learning and don't want to anger my wife by having to paint the screen several times

Welcome to the DIY Screens forum cocanuck!

I know your questions were directed at MM but I would like to make a suggestion for your consideration.

The first thing I would suggest is that you prime the whole wall with a good white primer such as Kilz2. This will provide a good flat white screen surface as a reference for you.

Before you make any commitments to screen size or shade of gray, get the projector installed and watch a few movies projected on the flat white. Play around with image size and get used to the various modes and adjustments available on your new projector.

Also take note of your wife's preferences with regard to how dark the room is when using the projector. You may find she does not like to have all the lights off. If the walls and ceiling are not yet painted, then you will want to negotiate for the darkest colors she will allow. That goes for the ceiling also.

This "white primer first" approach will allow you to get that projector fired up and in use without rushing into decisions that you may regret later. You are the best person to determine what size of screen and shade of gray (or white) best suites your situation and your preferences.
post #1330 of 1439
Thanks Tiddler, sounds like good advice. I find that reading all the possible solutions and different screen paint mixtures is quite confusing. I just want the screen to pop the color and have good blacks. (same as everyone else I guess!)
post #1331 of 1439
Just wanted to post a couple pics of my silverscreen 3 weeks post application.... I am absolutely thrilled! For reference, I am projecting a 120" 16x9.


post #1332 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocanuck View Post

Thanks Tiddler, sounds like good advice. I find that reading all the possible solutions and different screen paint mixtures is quite confusing. I just want the screen to pop the color and have good blacks. (same as everyone else I guess!)

On the face of it...and although for the most part it's being sensible advice under some circumstances, such experimenting does nothing to validate the "What will it be/look like/perform like when finished...?" part of your situation. And did I not see where you said specifically that you Wife does not want you to paint on various different screens forever...? (2x is forever to a Wife...)

How big of an image you can shoot onto a Primed White wall in a dark room has about zero importance or relevance as to what size screen and shade/composition of Gray will actually serve you best by giving you the performance your hoping for.

Quote:


I just want the screen to pop the color and have good blacks. (same as everyone else I guess!)

Well there ya go......,

Speaking for actual experience with the 8500, I say that while it has a most excellent image "as is" on a ideally made White surface, it looks/performs better on High Contrast surfaces that do not overly attenuate incoming Lumens. Blacks don't wash out, yet Whites are able to look brilliant. But as for certain, Primer ain't all/any of that, and can't measure up to actual well formulated White DIY Screen paints...or light Grays, be they simple or advanced for that matter.

A lot of that is due to one thing the 8500 possesses....lumens. And in truth, a lot of lumens isn't something you shoot on a White surface. Any Gray surface you can use to shoot on that can reduce the need for too much action by the Iris will conserve displayed lumens, allowing for more contrast than would be seen in an image on a adjusted "White" surface

Somewhere between PJ, screen size, and screen color/make up...a balance must be reached to obtain the best possible performance. You can get as close as an approximation as you need by supplying such info that states what you have...and what you want, that will allow you to proceed apace.

And you did that...so here ya go:

You need some gray...and also maintain at least a gain of 1.0 SS w/33% Poly will come in close to 1.0 as long as it is applied over a smooth, White primed wall, or better still, on top of a Semi-Gloss Interior Enamel (Water based) wall surface.

Straight SS without Poly will cover the underlying surface to opaquely to allow it to render any help...especially if rolled.

You can get started and be sure that with the suggestion you take you'll get better performance that any halfway measure will provide. And best of all, you'll be done....not still in the planning stages.

But what will you do...what WILL you do....? That still has to be up to you. If a wall sized SS Screen is your abiding interest and desire, we can go there and getter dun. Just let's DO IT...not waste time. The Decade is almost over!

Want truly Epochal "PoP"? Go send me a PM and/or start another thread. It ain't hard, expensive, or time consuming to reach another level, but that's a tale for another thread.
post #1333 of 1439
Hmmm, did this thread ever get started? I may very well put together a $10 screen for the superbowl (JUST moved two days ago - bought my first house!), for use with the Epson 200+ I've got... Looks like two coats on anything I can find should do me, eh?

...But I want to do something awesome for my permanent install, so the other thread might be of special interest as well.
post #1334 of 1439
I went to HD tonight and they didn't carry the Behr SS. They did have a recipie for a screen:

Base Coat: Behr Silver Metallic (3 - 4 Coats)

Top Coat:

1300 Behr Base White (Deep Base) 1 Qt.
Whie Opal Behr Opal Pearl Essence 1 Qt.
5580 Behr White Cieling paint 1 Qt.

Mix together and apply as top coat. 2-4 coats on last 2 coats is should be sanded with WET 400. Grit Sand Paper.

So, my Q is is the silver metallic base coat the Behr SS, or should I go to another store and get it?
post #1335 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by gingus View Post

I went to HD tonight and they didn't carry the Behr SS. They did have a recipie for a screen:

Base Coat: Behr Silver Metallic (3 - 4 Coats)

Top Coat:

1300 Behr Base White (Deep Base) 1 Qt.
White Opal Behr Opal Pearl Essence 1 Qt.
5580 Behr White Cieling paint 1 Qt.

Mix together and apply as top coat. 2-4 coats on last 2 coats is should be sanded with WET 400. Grit Sand Paper.

So, my Q is is the silver metallic base coat the Behr SS, or should I go to another store and get it?

HaHa!!! Where do you live? That is a recipe for Silver Metallic/MississippiMud! (SM/MM)

But ya can't go there anyway because HD doesn't sell the Behr Fuax Silver Metallic anymore. A very few stores still have some Jars of the WO-Pearl, but not enough to matter.

Wow, that would have both been quite a step up in both screen performance and the amount of work to do if you had been able to jump on it.

The Silver Screen paint is not a Behr product or Color. It's a Glidden Tint you add to any Base to get that specific shade of Gray.

gingus, do you want to consider a DIY Screen that will give you more than a simple neutral Gray like SS can do? Do you think you need it? If you do, start a new Thread so I and/or others can help you

List your PJ/Room size specs/and Room use, along with wall/ceiling colors, lighting situation and seating distance from the Screen. You'll get an answer quickly....several I'm sure.

But this Thread is exclusively for those looking for Silver Screen to make up a quick, easy, inexpensive and very acceptable Screen for beginners.

If you cannot find the Tint in the Glidden Color books or cards,( Glidden color code 770E-2) it's actual Tint amounts are listed way back at the front of this thread.
post #1336 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

HaHa!!! Where do you live? That is a recipe for Silver Metallic/MississippiMud! (SM/MM)

But ya can't go there anyway because HD doesn't sell the Behr Fuax Silver Metallic anymore. A very few stores still have some Jars of the WO-Pearl, but not enough to matter.

Wow, that would have both been quite a step up in both screen performance and the amount of work to do if you had been able to jump on it.

The Silver Screen paint is not a Behr product or Color. It's a Glidden Tint you add to any Base to get that specific shade of Gray.

gingus, do you want to consider a DIY Screen that will give you more than a simple neutral Gray like SS can do? Do you think you need it? If you do, start a new Thread so I and/or others can help you

List your PJ/Room size specs/and Room use, along with wall/ceiling colors, lighting situation and seating distance from the Screen. You'll get an answer quickly....several I'm sure.

But this Thread is exclusively for those looking for Silver Screen to make up a quick, easy, inexpensive and very acceptable Screen for beginners.

If you cannot find the Tint in the Glidden Color books or cards,( Glidden color code 770E-2) it's actual Tint amounts are listed way back at the front of this thread.

I'm in Utah. The Metalic paint and the peral white were special order items. I was just looking for the silver screen as it was an easy fix. if the SM/MM is a better screen than the SS, then it may be a better option.

For the past year, I have been watching my PJ on a wall painted an lighter brown.

Thanks.
post #1337 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by gingus View Post

I'm in Utah. The Metalic paint and the peral white were special order items. I was just looking for the silver screen as it was an easy fix. if the SM/MM is a better screen than the SS, then it may be a better option.

For the past year, I have been watching my PJ on a wall painted an lighter brown.

Thanks.

Well that's easy to top!

Hold on, I'll get some info to you.
post #1338 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That is a recipe for Silver Metallic/MississippiMud! (SM/MM)

Wow, that would have both been quite a step up in both screen performance and the amount of work to do if you had been able to jump on it.

So, if one could order this would this be an acceptable upgrade from the SS?
post #1339 of 1439
Well, I put three coats of the SS on Saturday. I watched 24 and Fringe and noticed a vast improvement over the brown wall. I still may pursue making a screen, but this seems to be a good temporary upgrade.
post #1340 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Due to the lack of uniformity in most "Mudded" applications, and therein the potential differences in absorption, sealing Mud with a primer is an important step.

Frankly, it's not something worth risking "not doing" when all you have to do is Roll on two easy coats of Kilz2

Quote:
Originally Posted by arrabyla30 View Post

Ok, so two coats of Kilz2. Will your instructions below from a couple of pages back apply to my application? With the exception of the initial sanding which was already done by my drywall guy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


Just Dry/Wet sand the original surface, prime 2x with Kilz-2 using a standard 9" 3/8" nap Roller (Lint Free type) Don't try to get absolute coverage with the first coat of Primer, but rather just get a good, even spread out, watching along the way for any Roller marks. To help avoid those nasties, dilute the Kilz-2 with approx. 15% Water or Flotrol and work the leading vertical edge of each Row "Once up & Once down" as the Roller goes dry. Don't tarry between Row applications, and start each new Row approx. 25% into the feathered (last worked) edge.
Very lightly Dry sand the last Kilz-2 Coat until it's slippery smooth.

Now when you roll out the SS, do not overload the Roller (Use a 3/8" Teflon Coated Fiber type Roller) because with such a smooth surface, your Roller might slide instead of Roll. The second coat won't be as touchy, but don't overdo the paint amount either. Always best to rapidly go between Screen and Paint Tray because you need more, than to deal with spreading out a substantial load across a larger area while hoping roller marks don't develop in thick/thinner areas. The
Basic Rolling Bible states that 3-4 thin coats are far better/ smoother than 2 heavy coats.

At the end of your 2nd Rolled SS coat, carefully examine the surface "after it's dry" and decide if there is any need for smoothing / error correction. If not, proceed with your Final Coat. Seldom do you need to sand between every coat. Yuck.

Ok, I finished applying two coats of Kilz2 following MM's procedure above; thanks for that BTW. There are some small, hardly noticeable areas (unless your 2" from the wall) that didn't get completely covered with the two thin coats I applied. Would it be overkill/unnecessary to apply a third coat before I "very lightly" dry sand and then apply the Behr Silverscreen? What is recommended for the sanding process AFA what type/brand of sand paper or sanding block?
post #1341 of 1439
Anyone try this with the Optoma HD80?
post #1342 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonez04 View Post

Anyone try this with the Optoma HD80?

I used silverscreen with my Optoma HD65. No primer, painted with a roller over an already painted wall. One coat. I had no idea what I was doing, and this is my first projector - bought because it was on wicked sale, not because I made any reasoned choice.

Disclaimers aside, I was very happy with the result. I have bright walls and ceiling, and everything I read said that I should go gray as a result. I loved my picture in complete darkness, but like to have some low light when the little kids are in the room, and that also pointed to gray -

I really like it. I have nothing to compare it to but my off-white painted wall I used for 2 weeks prior to the Behr, but I really like it. Feels like all aspects are better - viewability in low light, overall picture, contrast, etc.

So much so that I am now thinking about the more "complicated" mixes people talk about - if this was so good, I'm thinking those may be even better.
post #1343 of 1439
Can someone give me some advice how to get silverscreen like paint using dulux paint. I live in the country where behr paint is hard to find.
post #1344 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gundala View Post

Can someone give me some advice how to get silverscreen like paint using dulux paint. I live in the country where behr paint is hard to find.

Hello Gundala!

Silver Screen is essentially a neutral Gray in the N8.5 range.

If you use a Paint like Dulux Ultimate White Interior Flat latex, selecting a Gray that simply "looks' neutral' will get you very close.

We'd need to know where your hailing from to determine what type of Color/Tint schedule your Country uses to nail it down exactly, but I'm betting that if you simply went into a Store that specializes in Mixing paint and you asked for a light-to-medium Gray in a neutral shade, the Paint Tech will know exactly what your referring to. Then, all that remains is for you to compare shades on a color Chart and select the best depth of Gray to suit your needs.

BTW, the PJ your using, the Screen size you desire, and the Room's lighting scheme and color all play important roles as to what type of "Gray' you'll require. You should relate that to us ASAP.
post #1345 of 1439
I'm from Brunei Darussalam (you may never heard of it) and dulux is the paint that widely use in my country.

Quote:


If you use a Paint like Dulux Ultimate White Interior Flat latex, selecting a Gray that simply "looks' neutral' will get you very close.

Thanks for the info.

Quote:


BTW, the PJ your using, the Screen size you desire, and the Room's lighting scheme and color all play important roles as to what type of "Gray' you'll require. You should relate that to us ASAP.

I just bought Optoma HD66 and thinking of making screen size 110" with BOC and put it in my bedroom. My room wall has two colors which is light and dark brown, ceiling color is white. There is no light control but I can switch off the light if needed. But most of the time, I can't watch movie in the dark because my children will don't like it.
post #1346 of 1439
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gundala View Post

I'm from Brunei Darussalam (you may never heard of it) and dulux is the paint that widely use in my country.

Sure I have. That's in Borneo. Dulux is big there, just as it is in the Philippines and Australia. I've stomped around in my share of those places (...though not Borneo...) Are you situated along/in one of the NW coast cites?

Quote:


I just bought Optoma HD66 and thinking of making screen size 110" with BOC and put it in my bedroom. My room wall has two colors which is light and dark brown, ceiling color is white. There is no light control but I can switch off the light if needed. But most of the time, I can't watch movie in the dark because my children will don't like it.

Well you have some spare lumens with the 66 (..as long as your not in 3-D mode...) so I feel I should suggest you go with a darker Gray than Silver Screen. A N7.5 would be fine considering your screen size -t- Lumen balance.

Hopefully you ceiling mounting your PJ, not sitting it on the Foot of the bed.

If possible, keep your Throw Distance within the lower values. 13' is about ideal for your situation. That white Ceiling is your biggest concern when viewing in the dark. When you turn up the lights, it becomes a non- issue in comparison. All that leads you to need to place a bright and image as possible onto as dark a surface as possible so as to ward off the deleterious effects of ambient light....both the directed and reflected varieties.

Are the walls Cinder Block w/Stucco? Can you consider applying a smooth coating of thinned Plaster onto the wall then painting that? That opens up the possibility of simply painting the whole wall so your bedroom doesn't look to have a large blank, trimmed in area in front of the bed.

Considering the humidity in SE Asia, and what types of wood you can use for a Frame, a Cloth screen will face it's most toughest test. Consider all your options. This can / should be fun...and come in at more than a reasonable cost.
post #1347 of 1439
Thanks MississippiMan!

And you're right, the cost for building a good screen is more expensive here and most of recommended stuff on this forum are not available in my country. But yes, it will be more fun to succeed with limited resources.
post #1348 of 1439
I also just bought an hd 66. Pj is 14ft from screen wall, ceiling mounted, throwing aprox. 114 inched diag. Walls are light tan with 8ft white ceiling. Daytime, there is quite a bit of ambient light. I just bought a piece of jesso primed canvas 9x5 and tacked it to the wall. PQ sucks in day, ok at night, pj has not been calibrated yet. For now i'd like to paint the canvas SS. Should i mix in 33% poly or go straight from the can. Should i back frame the canvas and stretch it, if so, before or after i roll the paint. In the future i will be spraying a wicked SILVERFIRE on to a piece of foamcore 9x5[if i can find it] and attach it to my wall. What level of SF would you guys reccomend?. For now the canvas will have to do. Any advice for my set-up would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all who have added to this thread, it's inspired myself and others to go for their ultmate DREAM SCREEN.
post #1349 of 1439
Welcome gregguy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregguy View Post

I also just bought an hd 66. Pj is 14ft from screen wall, ceiling mounted, throwing aprox. 114 inched diag. Walls are light tan with 8ft white ceiling. Daytime, there is quite a bit of ambient light. I just bought a piece of jesso primed canvas 9x5 and tacked it to the wall. PQ sucks in day, ok at night, pj has not been calibrated yet. For now i'd like to paint the canvas SS. Should i mix in 33% poly or go straight from the can. Should i back frame the canvas and stretch it, if so, before or after i roll the paint.

Since your Rolling SS onto "Primed" Canvass, I'd give it a shot as is w/o Poly. But absolutely, you have to get the Canvass stretched over a Frame first. Nice and tight too.

Quote:


In the future i will be spraying a wicked SILVERFIRE on to a piece of foamcore 9x5[if i can find it] and attach it to my wall. What level of SF would you guys reccomend?.

Gotta know the Screen's intent. Theater (Dark Room) Family Room? A not so wild wild guess would be SF 2.0

Quote:


For now the canvas will have to do. Any advice for my set-up would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all who have added to this thread, it's inspired myself and others to go for their ultimate DREAM SCREEN.

Ya know, iffin' ya sprayed this Puppy (SS w/added Poly) onto a pre-stretched canvass like ya got, it would itself be a whole 'nuther level that would be much closer to being a Dream.

You'll do ok rolling with the Non-Poly-ed SS as long as you get that canvass stretched like a Drum Head. The tighter it(canvass) is the easier it is to Roll a decent finish onto even if one doesn't have experience in such things.

Good luck...and get yerself on along ta squirtin' 'em asasp.
post #1350 of 1439
my HD 66 shipped out yesterday This is my first PJ so I need some help
I plan to do SS unless directed differently. I have drywalled deep red walls and a white ceiling. All controlled lighting and will have the PJ at around 16-18ft. The screen size will be based on the exact placement but hopefully big . I have 8ft celings and viewing distance will be around 14-16'.

I need to go basic for the first screen to get my feet wet and am thinking SS is the way to go to start.

Any tips on settings to use with the HD66 and SS?

Also I have a beam that runs 10" down from the ceiling is this going to be a problem at that throw distance?

Thanks for the help
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