Behr "Silverscreen" Paint - Page 46

If your going to paint directly onto the Drywall using a Roller, your making a very adequate choice. It's a great place to start out from for a NooB, pretty much assuring one of a successful effort the first time out of the Blocks.

Emphasis on "first time out..." , naturally.


Well, to start, you cannot place the HD66 at 18' unless you can opt in for a 140" diagonal screen....which is not advisable on a wall where you only have 96" height the place a 70" tall image. The big reason being the HD66's Image offset. You'd have to mount the PJ with it's feet almost on the Ceiling...and still tilt considerably and use a lot of Keystone correction.

I could see you using a Chief RPA Mount w/dedicated Flat Pj mounting plate (Gives you approx 6" between Ceiling and PJ) and barely getting it accomplished, but another issue is those White Ceiling Tiles.

No, you need to limit yourself to 120" diagonal and that means your Throw distance can be at most 15' and no less than 13" 5". Not a lot of leeway there to work with.


You'd better get to where the thingee is actually up there before concerning yourself about calibration. We/you can address that at the proper time, once you have an image to adjust.


At least the Optoma's Image offset helps in that regard, As long as you can place the PJ so it's offset also allows for that 10' obstruction (...and it should do that easily enough...) it should present no worries. All you have to do is allow that your NOT going to use a Image size...at a location that places the Top of the Screen withing 11" of the intersection of the Screen Wall and the Ceiling.

If there ever was a time to place the PJ and use the image shot upon the Wall to guide you in masking off an exact area to paint, this is certainly such a time.


The real test will be if you still are giving out "Thanks' after you absorb everything and readjust your thinking.

But your welcome...as far as things go at present.

I know I am getting ahead of myself before it is mounted just killing time researching,reading and asking questions till it arrives and I get it on the ceiling. I do need to buy a mount and have seen where people have used the various models from monoprice with success. I can move the PJ to the distance you recomend for a 120" and that will be where I start.

So due to the offset I should try to hug the ceiling as much as possible to clear the beam? This was opposite of my noob thoughts of lowering the projector to clear the beam as in a wall mount or drop down ceiling mount. That is why I am the noob and you guys are the experts. So much to learn yet but it will be sooooooo worth it

Unless those mounts are extremely Low Profile, you might have to move out of the Low Budget models (Universals) and into a Custom arrangement. The Chief RPA ($139.00 @ Visual Apex) comes with a flat Plate (w/spacers) that is dedicated to that specific Projector's mounting holes. The Other part that mounts to the Ceiling is only 3.5" thick. That is absolutely about the closest you'll find ANY Mount will get the PJ to the Ceiling. As I said, a Total of 4"-5" at most from the Ceiling to the Bottom of the PJ, and if recent memory serves me, the center of the Lens will be 2" below there.

So that gives us a approx "Maximum" distance reference of 7" from the center of the lens to the Ceiling.

At a 120" image, the Optoma HD66's Lens Offset figure will be 16". That means if the Len's center is resting at a point 7" down off the Ceiling, you then must add 16" more to that figure and you come up with the "TOP" of the Image coming from the PJ being 23" down from the Ceiling/Screen wall juncture.

The Screen itself is 59" tall.
59 + 23 = 82"
96" - 82" = 14" (Bottom of the Screen's edge off the Floor)

Not really a good thing, so now you have to Tilt the PJ upwards using the 6 point adjustable screws on the Chief. "On the wall" you watch as you move the Image up at least 10". At that point the image will be decidedly Trapezoidal. Wider at the Top. The Keystone control is then used to "Square" the image. Better get used to that fact. It will have to be done.

The Offset does indeed eliminate the need to "Drop" the PJ's height to clear an obstacle. If the bottom of the Beam is only 10" from the Ceiling, and by using the figures and adjustments I presented, the Top of the Scree's image is now 14" from the Ceiling, it will be close...but the measurements are working in our favor..

Why...if "Tilting" can help mitigate placement issues, can't you use a less expensive mount that might increase your Lens position to 10"-12", just 3" to 5" lower? Because at it's "worst" Keystone corrections can be detrimental to the image by reducing brightness, distorting moving images at the edges of the Screen, and basically detracting from a pristine viewing experience. And lemmie tell something to you.....at 120"...you'll almost certainly notice anything that isn't "correct" if you even begin to try. Some however seem to never try and so get by quite nicely, so what or who's to say.....?

But the purpose of mounting the PJ's Lens just as high as you can "before" Tilting is to reduce the amount of Tilt, and therein the amount of needed Keystone correction, both to their minimums.


Yes. It will be. Few will argue that point. Don't rush. Ask before you "DO". "DO" exactly as your told.

Wear out the Bulb.


Yes we are. But you'll get plenty of arguments on that point.

My head is clearing and I can see the vision on the other side
thanks MM

The price tag on that mount is rough but I gotta do what a mans gotta do

It's hard to put a maximum allowable price on a really effective solution that allows one to accomplish exactly what they need to in the best manner possible. I've tried/used the best...and most all the "inexpensive" rest, and the "Projector Specific" Mounting plates combined with the almost infinite adjustment potential of the Chief RPA "6 Point" Low Profile Mount is by far the best solution I've ever used.

Is this good right? So tomorrow I am going to get 1 gallon of Behr Silverscreen 770E-2 and start painting.

Would building a recess into the ceiling help at all. I imagine you could attach the mount in the recess and have the projector a couple inches below it???

I'd venture to say that if by now the issue has not been solved, he's watching his content on a LCD.

But yeah, one could recess the mount if one could / would go to such extremes, but why....?...when the solution could be so much quicker, I can't fathom. Of course those who have such skills to toss into the equation can...and do look at these things differently.

"I" could do it.

But I wouldn't if I could/can do it easier.

"Lazy in Mississippi"

a little late????

Didnt notice it was back in May. lol. I only said that because Im thinking of doing it in my basement. Only have 7' ceilings so trying to maximize the height of the projector.

Pics from my latest projector, the famed 8350. While the Silverscreen is livable... I want more POP dang it!!!

Room Dimensions: 20x22
Screen: ~118inch canvas painted light gray (Behr Silver Screen) w/ a roller
Throw distance: 14ft 10inch

It was 4pm w/ an overcast sky so it wasn't full in your face bright in the room, but still pretty bright. There are 2 windows per wall:


Stock projector settings, nothing has been changed. Dynamic = Torch bright for ambient viewing. Cinema = Darkest setting, better color/flesh tones
Camera on tri-pod, Auto ISO, using 2 second timer to reduce blur

1920x1080 Desktop Background

Blinds open, Cinema mode


Blinds open, Dynamic mode


Blinds closed, Dynamic mode!!! :sunny:


Avatar 720p rip

Blinds open, Cinema mode


Blinds open, Dynamic mode


Blinds closed, Cinema mode


Blinds closed, Dynamic mode


Full darkness outside, with 4 60w light bulbs on full blast in center of the room
Easily watchable, but I'd rather not have the lights on full blast.

Dynamic


Dynamic


Install notes
I will also be mounting the projector as close as I can to the screen for 118 inches. This means the projector will be even brighter. Currently it is 15fl @ 14'10" vs 24fl @ 11'7", 3 feet closer to the screen once it's permanent.

I could probably use a screen with a bit of gain on it (throws light back at you so as to help ambient light viewing). I'll see how things go after I've got everything in their permanent positions. Right now I'm just wearing shades and keeping it in Dynamic all the time.

Hi Mike!

A very respectable showing for the venerable Silver Screen. If there ever was a PJ that could allow SS to do it's best, the 8350 fits that bill. Since I read elsewhere and here you want to move into another formula, post up another dedicated thread authored by you and I'll elaborate there. Gotta stay on topic here lest the beer Bottles start a'flyin' !

Will do, with a bunch of macro shots to show texture and all that jazz.

Good Man! I'll be watchin' fer it.

I'll keep things going. Just purchased a Optoma HD180 and plan on putting up a SS screen. Paint is purchased, just waiting for ceiling mount to arrive to determine final screen size. Also purchased a Wagner Control DD. MM, any suggestions on how much water to add to the SS when spraying with the DD?

That's a real beamer of a PJ there. I hope it's mounting considerations are no issue for you. I plan on acquiring the HD1080 soon for a Church Installation (4000 lumens!) but it only possess a 2500:1 CR so a Contrast Enhancing paint like SS is always a simple solution toward realizing better looking Blacks that such units can muster up on their own on White surfaces.

I'd suggest a ratio of 1 part water to 4 parts SS. Stir well using "The Squirrel Mixer" at slow speed, then strain the SS through a 1 Gallon size Nylon "Sock" filter to see how fast the paint runs down through. If it does not quickly "pool" but moderately and steadily flows through the Filter into the Wagner's Reservoir Cup, that should be where you want to be.

But always...ALWAYS practice on something first to determine the rate of Flow and pattern size.

Even so, I'm going to refine the SS formula here just a tad.

Use Behr Premium Plus Ultra Interior Latex Enamel (1850) in Flat. To keep costs to a minimum, often the use of the least expensive "Base" available has been advised. But to utilize the properties of SS to it's fullest extent, obviously using a better quality Paint will ramp up the equation, and make the end quality of the Finish all the more apparent.

MM, what mounting considerations are you referring to? And I did get the paint that you recommended.

Projector mount arrived today so set up the HD180 and taped off the screen. Ended up with a 100" screen size. Was a bit apprehensive about using the Wagner DD, but man is it easy to use if you watch MM's videos to get a feel for how quick you need to move as you spray. Did a light dusting, waited an hour, and just put up dusting number two. Plan to wait another hour and then get one more coat up tonight, then a final coat in the morning.
Quick question, do you need to break the Wagner apart and clean it if you are waiting an hour between coats?

Maybe, maybe not.

I painted 1 coat, waited 45 min, painted a 2nd coat, waited 1 hour, then I sprayed on a 3rd coat. By that time there was some dried paint in the sprayer and I was left with micro 'boogers' during the application.

From then on I broke down my sprayer after every coat. Cheap insurance for a perfect spray every time.

Thanks for the input, I think I am done for the night and survived without any clumping. I think I will let it dry over night, then maybe a light sanding and one final coat in the morning. And after spraying 3 coats I cannot believe how easy and awesome the Wagner DD is to use, so glad I went ahead and picked one up the other day. It helped that my wife wants to paint about every room in the house in the next few months, so we will get our monies worth.

This might come too late, but unless any appreciable amount of texture (sand-papery feeling) or visible errors are present (drip...run...sag) there should not be any need to sand at all.

One wants to avoid sanding on a screen's paint surface because it's the depth of the paint's "translucency" that lends much of itself to being "High Performance". In this case, even with SS, you want undisturbed layers, not "roughed up" ones.

I ended up doing one more coat that night, no sanding. I am very happy with how things turned out, no runs or drips. I guess ( since this was my first time using the wagner DD) that I put down 4 lighter coats. Watched Avatar today and was very happy with the picture.
Anyone wondering whether or not they should buy a Wagner all I can say is do it, you won't regret it. Had so much fun using it I will probably be repainting my screen with a maxxmudd mix before too long.

Just installed my first PJ and a DIY screen over the weekend. Used a 1/4" hardboard from Lowe's, stood off from the wall 3/4" with some MDF, and framed with 3" crown moulding trim. I painted the trim in a flat black and the screen with the Behr 'silverscreen' paint as suggested (I used 3 coats, but 2 would probably have been ok) and I must say, it looks quite good. The old lady has commented that she thinks the PJ is still powered on when looking at the screen as it sits since it appears to have a little gain. My room sits in an open concept livingroom/diningroom has a few very big windows that let in alot of light. I have blinds and window drapes for treatments which block out a good portion of that light. During the day, if blinds are open, THX mode is watchable, but dynamic sees less wash-out. At night with ambient lights on, THX mode still gets the job done well, and with the lights off, I certainly prefer THX mode to anything else on my Epson 8500UB.
Thanks for the advice on a good, cheap solution for screens. I'll post a couple pictures later tonight.

Edit: The projector is ceiling mounted (9ft ceilings) with an 8" extension and is at about an 11.5 foot throw distance IIRC. Screen size is about 8ft or so.

Well guys, after using my projector for months on a wall with anything but a smooth surface, I cracked and went the Behr Silver Screen route...so here are my specs:

Optoma EP727 1080i DLP Projector
home made screen consistion of:
3' x 5' frame (1"x4" wood)
3x5 sheet of white MRF Panelboard
Screen surface painted with Behr SilverScreen (770E-2) in UWP base.

The screen is hung from the ceiling with scre in hooks and loops, and I gotta say, even when the paint was wet the picture looked fantastic compared to before, so I am very satisfied with the results. So let's see...8 bucks on the wood, 6 dollars for all the hardware to assemble and hang the screen, and 28 dollars for all the paint, and panelboard...$42 dollars for a screen I made myself, and is quite impressive showing the HD images on cable/Xbox/DV player is well worth it...I'll post some pictures if you guys would like soon!

Glad to be aboard!

Rich

Hurry up! Quicker!

And....Holy Lumens, Batman!

I gotta see what a 5' x 3' screen getting blasted by 2200 lumens looks like.
According to my calculations, at full Lamp output your PJ is Xerox-ing the image onto the SS surface and even when factoring in a .8 gain surface your getting 87 Foot Lamberts of brightness off that screen!

Switch to low Lamp and calibrate the PJ to the color of the Screen. I'm bettin' ya big money your image will show Black Levels just as deep as any 1080p Wunderkind that sports 50K:1 or higher contrast.

And Brother....I can imagine how well that screen would perform in ambient light!

I have been rolling with the silverscreen for just over four months now. I have an Epson 8350, 11 foot throw, screen 104". I have the projector mounted in my basement with medium green painted walls.

At times the screen looks perfect but I am still considering going a bit darker. During bright screen images like baseball it looks great with ambiant light or dark. But in darker scenes I would like to see the black levels a little darker.

Alot of this might have to do with my narrow basement walls and the medium paint. Anyone have any advice if I should go a bit darker for the screen paint, or stick with the silver screen and try to adjust my setup? I realize this is an entry level PJ so I can only expect so much but are there any tweaks anyone would recommend?

Below are some pics.

The SS is great for a 8350. The Wall and Ceilng color..not so much. Ceiling is most important. A darker color in flat is best. Darker the better...but needs not be Black.

Next to a change in the Screen. Surface, painting the Ceiling darker will deliver your best results.

painting the Walls 30% lighter the same color as the is so much more gravy.

Thanks to the forum, I have been using a Behr Silver Screen for several years.
(13 foot diagonal)
Friends, family, neighbors, all are still impressed every time we get together.
I am currently using an Optoma HD66 projector for 2D/3D.

Mad

After nearly 6 years, I am still really happy with this solution. To this very day people still cannot believe that it is a normal wall that is being used for the HT room.