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Behr "Silverscreen" Paint - Page 9

post #241 of 1439
I posted this in another thread but seems to fit here better, FWIW.
Rob

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...90#post3934490
post #242 of 1439
I too just finished my 4th coat of SS + 1/4 WOP. I'll try to post screenshots in the next few days.
post #243 of 1439
I'm a bit behind you. Two coats and I need to wetsand.
post #244 of 1439
Quote:
Originally posted by ToddMcF2002
I'm a bit behind you. Two coats and I need to wetsand.

Throughly soak that sponge, (it takes 2 - 5 minutes "floating") then squeeze as much water out of it as you can with several good squeezes. The sponge should be damp, and not leave what looks like a watery trail behind.

Wet sand with broad sweeping strokes that are applied with a "lay on the surface" pressure. Check the Sponge after 20- 30 strokes and see how evenly your receiving paint across the surface of the sponge, and adjust the pressure accordingly. You don't want to "Bulldoze" the surface with a heavy edge. If you can see scratches left behind you, you pressing too hard.

When the sanding surface of the sponge is evenly loaded with paint to the point you cannot see the "Gray" of the silicate, rinse (*scrub*) the surface clean, wring, and resume.

Smoothing is all you want, not gross removal of material. If you have a serious bump or ridge, apply specific attention to that one area until "ALMOST" even, then sweep across it and apply marginally harder pressure as you pass over it.

Simple, eh?

It's all common sense.

Oh yeah......, you should NEVER apply sanding to the final coat of a Flat finish. It may be flat, but that small degree of sheen that "smooth" adds helps give the image an added punch, but without any added glare. It's not a lot of difference, but at this stage, it's all cumlative. A lot of little, "It's done right." adds up to exemplary end results.
post #245 of 1439
I'm going to go the same route as you guys for my 4805, but I have a few questions, as I've never really painted before.

What kind of roller do I use?
Is there a specific kind of sponge to use for the wetsanding?
I wetsand coats 1 & 2 and leave the 3rd?
Any other instructions?

I want to know what I'm doing before I ruin the paint job. Mississippi Man, I need your expertise here.

Thanks all,

Mark
post #246 of 1439
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally posted by Gentile
I'm going to go the same route as you guys for my 4805, but I have a few questions, as I've never really painted before.

What kind of roller do I use?
Is there a specific kind of sponge to use for the wetsanding?
I wetsand coats 1 & 2 and leave the 3rd?
Any other instructions?

I want to know what I'm doing before I ruin the paint job. Mississippi Man, I need your expertise here.

Thanks all,

Mark

If you've never done wet-sanding before (and neither have I), why not try two thin coats straight without sanding. Throw an image up there and see what it looks like. If you're not satisfied, then try wet-sanding that finish. Correct me if I'm wrong MM, but you can always go forward, but not back.

EDIT: I used a foam roller as indicated in my initial thread details. If you review the beginning of this thread, it describes my process. Not that it is optimal for you, but it is what I did to start out this rat race.
post #247 of 1439
This weekend, it's on. I live with two women, (gf, and her best friend) and it's driving me insane. I need a project to burn off some pent up energy and frustration, adn it looks like its time to finally build my own screen.......
post #248 of 1439
One Man's Insanity is Another's Man's Genius


Quote:


Originally posted by Jcoffey
This weekend, it's on. I live with two women, (gf, and her best friend) and it's driving me insane. I need a project to burn off some pent up energy and frustration, adn it looks like its time to finally build my own screen.......

He lives with two women, married to neither, and they are best friends.

NOW THAT's a project whose logistics I'd like to explore!
post #249 of 1439
On the wet sanding....

MississippiMan may kill me for saying this - but all I do is get sheets of water proof sand paper. I like 320 grit. I use alot of water - more the merrier, and use an orbital motion - keeping it random.

I did this on the SS/WOP mix and the Silver Metallic base coat for Light Fusion. Came out great.
post #250 of 1439
Trust me MM, it's nowhere NEAR as fun and interesting as it sounds. THey both are on the same cycle, both only 22 fresh out of college, still act like high school kids, tons of drama between them,etc. Ya, it was a really good idea to fall for someone 8 years younger than me. Even better to let them both move in with me and distroy my bachlor pad and safe haven.LOL
Building a new screen will be a MUCH more enjoyable and exciting evening for me at this point......
post #251 of 1439
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by Jcoffey
Trust me MM, it's nowhere NEAR as fun and interesting as it sounds. THey both are on the same cycle, both only 22 fresh out of college, still act like high school kids, tons of drama between them,etc. Ya, it was a really good idea to fall for someone 8 years younger than me. Even better to let them both move in with me and distroy my bachlor pad and safe haven.LOL
Building a new screen will be a MUCH more enjoyable and exciting evening for me at this point......

I can wholeheartedly agree. I was in a similar situation prior to meeting my wife. It is NOT "Three's Company" or like anything you may read about in a "magazine". This is reality. If you think living with one woman is tough, let's just say the problems are not multiplicative, but more like exponential. And if they live together long enough, their cycles synchronize, and the term "perfect storm" comes to mind, every month.

Good luck J, I'm pullin for ya..
post #252 of 1439
You just made me shudder with that perfect storm comment. And lets not forget that since they're best friends, when one gets mad at me they BOTH get mad at me. And I have nowhere to run. Its a two bedroom loft apt. even if I run and hide, the bedrooms only have walls, not ceilings, so its still wide open............
post #253 of 1439
John Ritter is Spinning in His Grave.

As for me, having been raised with 8 sisters, I learned to cope, and how to keep 'em in line. Survival depends on being resilent & resourceful.

Since my Wife and I have passed the 25 year mark already, I must either have been doing something right, keeping secrets secret, or maybe I just met that "one in a Million.

..or been blessed with all three.

...........and as if I would have it any other way.
post #254 of 1439
true, plus you have plenty of space to work on prjects and what not.

I have 3 rooms and 2 bathrooms. I dont even have sanctuary in the bathrooms. On my throne........
post #255 of 1439
Here's a collection of images that show the steps leading toward a Trim Job on a 112" diagonal Light Fusion Screen. If your gonna paint a screen, ya gotta go here sometime. And if your screen is is as big or bigger than 110" diagonal, you'll need to create a Blackout Trim Frame that is at least along the deminsions below.

3 lengths of 4 - 1/2" wide x 10' MDF Pre-Primed trim @ 14.25 ea.

I ripped the curve off to produce 4" even, Miter cutt the pieces, then wrapped and stapled on No# 10 Quality Black Felt. Finish nails hold the trim in place, nail set through & beneath the Felt into drywall and a few Studs.

Total cost including Felt......$50.00. But worth it to get a proffesional looking job.
LL
post #256 of 1439
That looks great MMan. Very professional indeed. Nice pics too!
post #257 of 1439
Guys,

I posted a bunch of SSWOP overlay shots in my gallery. The background is a white wall. The Pearlescent percentage is 30%.

Links are about 1/2 way down the thread. I'm looking for feedback!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...postid=4061337

Thanks!
- Todd
post #258 of 1439
Checked that other thread, saw your worry about the earthtones looking "crushed"

To me--that's how those earthtones SHOULD look. I think they're a tad too bright and washed out on the rest of the screen. But then we're falling into the realm of personal preference. But to me--the colors on the SS/WOP mix (I feel weird typing out "WOP" as an italian ) seem a lot more natural. It doesn't look like a crush to me. I dunno.
post #259 of 1439
You may be right. Sometimes its hard to judge against the white wall I'm so accustomed to. I'm trying very hard to remain objective - meaning I want to rush out and paint my whole wall this color. Before I do anything "Hasty" I need to finish my Light Fusion sample to see how it stacks up against this one.

One thing is for certain though - Grey screens are certainly *not* dead as people have suggested. I've got one of the projectors (BenQ 8700) that Grey screens are supposed to be dead for - and the proof is in the screenshots. Black levels are a totally different ballgame with SSWOP.

Grey is far from dead.
post #260 of 1439
Gray as a neutral color is still an alternative, but very mundane as to it's potential to service the many different equations various PJs offer up. It can only do so much, less if the lumens are down, and still not enough if the brightness is exceptionally high, but contrast levels are down.
Darker Grays create inky blacks, but dull colors and crushed whites.

Which is why Gray's properties must be both mitigated and enhanced by the addition of other tints. The closer the match of screen attributes to any PJ, the better the end results will be. That's a "DUH" statement fer sure, but it seems like a lot of Gray advocates choose to ignore it anyway.

Silver Screen shows promise as a simple solution that outperforms a neutral Gray because it's component combination work together to do more than a neutral can alone. Reducing elements like Red Oxide or Raw Umber, or removing either of them altogether will affect other aspects of the solution. It's the whole combination together that creates the qualities that make Silver Screen different from other "closely configured" Flat Silver paint mixes.

Take the 50% of the Red out of any particular deep Blue mix and the results are exactly what I'm referring to.

No, only a overall dilution will compensate for undesirable traits that make themselves know to some. Others will note that the very traits that are in Silver Star are exactly what most expensive High Lumen LCD PJs need, yet I recall that the majority of all DIY'ers that are looking for a simple, cheap-out Screen, all have had X1s, Panny 300s, Z1's....you know, the budget PJs that usually lack severely in at least one critical dept. or another.

Panny and Sanyo LCD owners loved ME because the LCDs pumped out enough focused blue light to offset much of the "dulling" aspect that Gray added. Whites were/are the problem, but not so much as to make it an unwatchable experience. At least for most. Some disaffected types (Mfg. Screen owners or Sellers primarily...) loved to tout how "Blue" the whits were, but could not dare to offer any deserved & real accolades on SDE suppression and the EXTREME detail that the Thallo Green brought into the Gray mix.

Ahhhhhh...., Thallo Green. There was a time when countless minions desired to put some in everything but their Post Toasties.

Point of order; As of yesterday, upon looking and with what I could find, I counted no fewer than 4 - IF 4805 owners, 2 BenQ 8700 owners, 5 -X1 owners, 2 Panny 300 owners, and 4 -Z2 owners that are doing some type of MM Flat White w/ WOP mix at present. Let's not count my own 5 current varying projects, (...as well as 2 Custom LF screens for a couple of AVS'ers who has been more than patient....thanks Guys!) About 1/3 of 'em want to or have added teeny to itsybittsy amounts of Lamp Black, and a equal amount have opted to keep the "stick-adjusted" 1/96 oz droplet of Red Oxide in and out.

Neutral Gray? No Way! Do you grill your Steak with no seasonings? Eat your Salad with no Dressing? Drink Non-Alcoholic Beer?

Why settle for less. Spice helps everything, if you don't mismatch with the main ingredient, or use too much or too little.

Man...., now I'm hungry. Where's that beer?
post #261 of 1439
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Originally posted by MississippiMan
Man...., now I'm hungry. Where's that beer?

It's in the capable hands of the U.S. Postal Service. Should get there tomorrow or Monday. Hope you like the label
post #262 of 1439
HERE HERE MMAN!!!!!!!!
Well, much to the dislike of the gf (expressed with some strong language and a much raised voice) I'm going to HD and Hancock Fabricks tonight to buy a half gallon of the 2\\3 to 1\\3 SS\\WOP mix and assorted supplies to build a screen with BO cloth stretched and painted with the mix to see how much better it can be than my light gray painted wall. More importantly to see how well it rejects ambient light, since my wall is lined with 4 huge factory windows that let ANY outside light in, making it completely unwatchable before dark. Any boost I can give to the image will be great. I was kind of dissapointed when I first hooked it up, since it hs 1300 lumens, and could be seen fine int he conference house at work. Only thing I can guess is it was on a drop down silver screen and it was running PC signals and not movies....
post #263 of 1439
Jcoffey,

i'm going to go for the 2/3 SS to 1/3 WOP mix same as you. My room seems similar as well as I have 3 large windows on the wall the projector is mounted on. I am lucky though as the sun never shines directly on them and the blinds keep out most light.

You mention getting a half gallon of the mix. Are you getting them to mix the SS up and then get them to mix the WOP with it? Or are you buying a 1/2 gallon of each and mixing them yourself?

I'm making a 16:9 82" diag screen and need to know how much paint I need as I've never purchased paint before or even painted that much. I need newbie step by step instructions on what to tell the poor Home Depot person that I meet.

I have decided to nix the red oxide and go with the 2/48's raw umber. Not sure if I should leave the lamp black at 5/48'ths or change to 4/48'ths.

Oh yeah, pj is a 4805. Thanks,

Mark
post #264 of 1439
I painted my 106" screen wall with 1.5 quarts of paint. A total of three coats.

Half gallon is enough.
post #265 of 1439
Quote:


Originally posted by Gentile
Jcoffey,

i'm going to go for the 2/3 SS to 1/3 WOP mix same as you.

You mention getting a half gallon of the mix. Are you getting them to mix the SS up and then get them to mix the WOP with it? Or are you buying a 1/2 gallon of each and mixing them yourself?

Oh yeah, pj is a 4805. Thanks,

Mark

You can try adjusting the amounts, but since WOP comes in a quart Jar, and the least amount of SS Paint you can buy is 1 quart, the easiest way is to buy a Gallon can, the components to make 2 quarts of SS, and mix 1 quart of WOP in at the start, insuring a good blending.
2/3rds to 1/3rd. 3/4 gallon. Take the leftovers and paint it on any flat, smooth inexpensive surface for an impromptu screen you can set up outdoors, or wherever you might want to.

If you nix the RO, expect to lose some of the "Deep Silver" appearance. Silver Screen is what it is because of the components within it. Remove one and it's no longer Silver Screen. Try "REDUCING" or DILUTING" but never deletion.
post #266 of 1439
Ya, I figured that would be the easiest ways to mix it.

Gentile I built 2 120" diag screens and used only one gallon of SS with 3 layers each.....
post #267 of 1439
Ok, add another to your ranks... First post so be kind, please.

I've been lurking around and stumbled on this thread. I have a DIY BO screen, and just picked up a quart each of SS and WOP to play around with.

I have a Mitsu HC2 LCD (feel like a loner, not many of these floating around) and a hardboard for the test. Cheers.
post #268 of 1439
Hey all, I picked up my screen materials yesterday, not sure when I'll get a chance to make it though.

I went with a quart of stock SS and mixed in 1/2 quart of WOP (they had 1/2 qt bottles of WOP at my Home Depot), so I have a 2:1 mix.

Only thing i'm worried about is the weight of 1/4 inch hardboard, that stuff ain't light. 1/8 seemed too wavy , even though I am making a frame for support.

I'll post my progress,

Mark
post #269 of 1439
I figured you wouldnt be too pleased with the hardboard. Whatever you do, keep it out of humidity! One of my sample boards looks like a "C" now.

Please do keep us posted on your progress!
post #270 of 1439
Newbie lurker here...

Couple of questions...

#1 - What do you guys recommend for lightweight, stable (non warping) material as the screen surface?

#2 - If it is not an "off the shelf item" at HD or Lowe's, where would I look for that kind of material in the Atlanta area?

Thanks in advance.


OldRedtop


Edit - Looking for a screen size of 96 x 54.
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