.....you can PM Ken by clicking on his "PM" icon. He'll respond promptly, I'm sure.
Some points to ponder;
Baring the obvious differences in the actual components, Goo & MMud have one distinct difference.
Goo uses a Thick Base coat, with a very translucent Top Coat.
MMud, after mixing, applies as a single layer combining both properties.
The result is a "film" of paint that both reflects AND diffuses light, the more desirable "rejections" being those that fall under the "defused" category, and the "reflections" coming from a surface that catches and reflects a very high degree of light, yet allows a greater amount of light than would be expected ..., out through the back.
Light Fusion depends on the combination of a highly reflective surface, (Glass Mirror, Acrylic Mirror, Reflective Mylar Overlay.) and a surface coating with all of the prescribed MMud properties. An added benefit of a Plastic mirror is the 1/8" gap. Mylar alternatives do not posses this atribute.
But that is not to say that other coatings don't have something to offer to the equation. I myself personally urged Ken to try Goo on a acrylic mirror. Some mention was made on Forum that my results with First Surface Mirrors ( They are the "Richest" kind."
Most expensive too!!! ) might have suggested that the same be attempted using Goo.
A good idea. I've never advocated anything else too Ken. His product was my inspiration 2 years ago. Said so several times.
The main difference between "priming" the mirror the coating it, and applying several individual coats, is that prior to "Mirrors", Covering first was essential before "Finishing". With a Mirror, the reflective surface is exactly what you want, and if you cover it completely, it ceases to be a relevant issue, save providing you a damn smooth surface on which to paint a Goo, or for that matter, a MMUd screen.
Both have something to offer.
Todd, the very nature of Goo, (...and all paints actually) is that as they "cure", their properties change. With both Goo & MMud, the "toughening up" or "contraction" of the space between the paint's collective molecular mass as it dries sharpens the image, reduces "shifting" if present, and reflects more efficiently.
Your screen will reach 95% of it's potential in about a month from it's last coat, if the humidity isn't too high, that is.
Immaturely dry screens look fuzzy. I take it as an extreme validation of the plain 'ol Light Fusion w MMud/Plastic Mirror approach, that the screen I finished painting only the night before could show as well as it did at the spring Canuk Shoot out the next morning. But I did "preview" it late the night before at 3 hours old and by doing so, slept easy.
But your results may vary.
It boils down to this. Substituting Goo for MMud w/Light Fusion would mean;
Spending 3 times as much for paint, and receiving about 1 -1/3 quart less.
Spraying just as many coats over all, or more as it takes with MMud.
Trying to achieve not one but two distinct finishes over the mirror.
One must "cover" without totally dampening the effects of the mirror. The Top coat must not hinder the reflection from the Base Coat.
You have twice as much of a chance to "muck" it up, and at thrice the expense.
That's why even I have't yet gave it a whirl.
But there are others who have been urged to do so, merely because they had leftover Goo. To date, I haven't heard a peep.
If one someone with HVLP equipment, the Mirror, and the skill, would attempt the above with Goo CRT White (...ditch the "Gray" in this case.) I'm sure the results would be noteworthy.
Until then...., it off to the 'Depot. 'Eh?
I'm going to have my Auto Body shop try painting one, under my whip of course!