Originally Posted by tsbrand1
Yup, but at the time I didn't know what sort of issue it was. It seemed to be coming from the DVD player - I only saw the blue flash when playing DVD's, but that was just coincidence. It probably didn't help that when I tapped the DVD player (on top of the TV...) it flashed. Now that I know it was the power supply, it still makes sense but it wasn't what I thought.
However, I may NOT have gotten away with it, sadly.
Today, about a month later, the set refused to turn on, and I have a red light on the board just to the left that has the flyback transformers on it. I assume that's the deflection board?
Your opinion - should I replace both the ps and deflection boards or just the deflection board? Is there a history of deflection board solder joints being bad? Is it worth touching up? Or should I just replace it for starters?
And I believe you said in another post that there are eeproms I need to scavenge off the current deflection board? Do you know which ones?
Thanks for the help, hopefully this set isn't becoming a bench queen.
Well, there you have it, folks. Problems on the PS board, left unattended, and then coincidentally, permanent damage to the defl bd. Was it really coincidental that awhile later the defl bd goes out?
I believe the defl bd would not have been damaged if the set had not been allowed to stay on after the first intermittent problems had been noticed. If the set was continued to be allowed to run during intermittent failures, I believe those intermittencies took out the defl bd. I looked up your former post and while you are proficient at soldering, you didn't say whether you resoldered everything on that board except the heat sinks and test points, or whether you only soldered what you considered to be the relevant points. My views on that issue have been made plain here on this thread more than once - that TOTAL resoldering of everything that connects to anything on that board is the answer, not partial resoldering.
I have examined defl bds and have found no cold solder joints, nor even suspicious ones, so you have to just grit your teeth and spring for its replacement. You can buy it from me or from Pioneer.
I would replace the defl bd first, to make sure the new one works properly, and hope that your PS bd has problems intermittently only, still, and still works properly most of the time. If your set works again, don't resolder the PS board yet. Just turn it off, and quickly.
Once you have confirmed that the new defl bd is working properly again because the unit is working properly again, shut the unit down again promptly, just as soon as you've confirmed coherent image on the screen. You don't want a repeat scenario of what you've just encountered. If you've been lucky enough for your set to be working again, THEN resolder the PS board, and don't wait.
You will have kept the unit on for only a few seconds, just enough time to confirm normal ops. Do NOT leave it on any longer than that before resoldering the PS board, or you'll be taking a chance on the same thing happening all over again.
If you're not lucky and the set still fails to come on, try resoldering the PS bd, but know that your starting point this time was not a good, trustable one. You may now need to replace the PS bd, there's no concrete way to tell whether you do or don't, now. If you get the resoldering wrong, you won't know it because the problems with the defl bd may be clouding the issue. Ultimately you may have to replace both boards, and hope that something else didn't get damaged downline, because of the problems on either one. If you don't want to take any chances, just replace both boards now.
The service manual says that the defl bd contains critical eeproms that should be transfered to the new one, so you'll have to refer to that manual or to Pioneer to find out where. When you do, please share that with us here. I have not had occasion to need to know that up till now, as I have always done a complete calibration after replacing a defl bd.
Anyone want to continue to debate, as to whether owners should continue to operate their sets once they have noticed the blue flash on it?