or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 44

post #1291 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by prismagla View Post

I have one pro710, have changed them stk392-100 into 180, the convergence fitted well in full and full hd but in RGB 33k, there are two lines in the red grid and two in the green that does not allow me to fit well, and the screen is deformed below to the left
tank you

On Pios, you can't do the sm image structure work on RGB, it has to be done in sm on component. With component you can do anything needed - full geometry and convergence. On RGB I believe it defaults back to 480p in the structure dept. You can do RGB colorations in sm, but not structure work.

Whatever you do on component 1080i, will then automatically apply to RGB 1080i as far as the image structure goes. I believe it's impossible to have one deformed while the other is not, when both are displaying 1080i material.

However, if you are using HTPC and that's why you are implementing RGB, then you may have lots of work in your PC program to have to master.

Once your set has been aligned properly with a working STB or pattern generator, then the HTPC card needs to conform to THAT - not the other way around. HTPC has WAY too much variability built-in, to use as a master template for 1080i image structure.


Mr Bob
post #1292 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

On Pios, you can't do the sm image structure work on RGB, it has to be done in sm on component. With component you can do anything needed - full geometry and convergence. On RGB I believe it defaults back to 480p in the structure dept. You can do RGB colorations in sm, but not structure work.

Whatever you do on component 1080i, will then automatically apply to RGB 1080i as far as the image structure goes. I believe it's impossible to have one deformed while the other is not, when both are displaying 1080i material.

However, if you are using HTPC and that's why you are implementing RGB, then you may have lots of work in your PC program to have to master.

Once your set has been aligned properly with a working STB or pattern generator, then the HTPC card needs to conform to THAT - not the other way around. HTPC has WAY too much variability built-in, to use as a master template for 1080i image structure.


Mr Bob

I explain to you, in the way service, have fitted the whole convergence well in full, and in full hd, F and H in the grill, and the adjustment is perfect of 3 colors, and signs HD are seen very well, but when I connected the hd fury, recently there I took sign as RGB and the grill H was badly exact, but if I connect components the grill H it turns out to be exact.
I spread the grill tried to fit in RGB two of the red lines the first one and the second one of left to this right as like a snake and I cannot put straight lines, the rest they are straight well and also in RH SIZE the rest of the lines move with gentleness but in these two lines they do not move linearly and almost they do not move only are deformed
I have a theory that the STK that I put am not working well to 33k that is the frequency of RGB for being this of low cost, I am thinking to change them into a few original TOSHIBA and see if the problem is this, you that you think

Thank you
post #1293 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by prismagla View Post

I explain to you, in the way service, have fitted the whole convergence well in full, and in full hd, F and H in the grill, and the adjustment is perfect of 3 colors, and signs HD are seen very well, but when I connected the hd fury, recently there I took sign as RGB and the grill H was badly exact, but if I connect components the grill H it turns out to be exact.
I spread the grill tried to fit in RGB two of the red lines the first one and the second one of left to this right as like a snake and I cannot put straight lines, the rest they are straight well and also in RH SIZE the rest of the lines move with gentleness but in these two lines they do not move linearly and almost they do not move only are deformed
I have a theory that the STK that I put am not working well to 33k that is the frequency of RGB for being this of low cost, I am thinking to change them into a few original TOSHIBA and see if the problem is this, you that you think

Thank you

Possible. But I would go original Sanyo, not Toshiba.

Union Electronics has had real good luck with their 392-180s, have not had any significant failure rate at all. It's where I get mine.


Mr Bob
post #1294 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Possible. But I would go original Sanyo, not Toshiba.

Union Electronics has had real good luck with their 392-180s, have not had any significant failure rate at all. It's where I get mine.


Mr Bob

I live in Barcelona, Spain, and here I can buy a STK392-150 of Sanyo, since I do not obtain 180 of a reliable dealer. I suppose that 150 it is better than 110
what defect is seen on screen when a stk is not of good quality? or is it only that they fail and do not work?

tank you

I follow this forum long ago and believe that you do a magnificent work helping to the people as me ;-)
post #1295 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by prismagla View Post

I live in Barcelona, Spain, and here I can buy a STK392-150 of Sanyo, since I do not obtain 180 of a reliable dealer. I suppose that 150 it is better than 110
what defect is seen on screen when a stk is not of good quality? or is it only that they fail and do not work?

tank you

I follow this forum long ago and believe that you do a magnificent work helping to the people as me ;-)

Thanks! Glad I can help.


The 150s are also significantly better than the 110s, and can be used very well if you can't find/get the 180s.

Longevity is really the only real issue here. I have used all types, and they all do the job of convergence just fine. But the 150s should have more of a chance at lasting the remaining life of your set. The original 110s from back then were just not built nearly as strong as the present day 150s and 180s are.

Same happened with the STK 4273s, used in the early models of Mit CRT RPTV and other brands. They were eventually replaced with the stronger - and in this case even thicker! - 4274s.


Mr Bob
post #1296 of 2919
I rechecked the fuses on the P/S board,they seemed OK ? {checked in the 200 ohm setting as well as sound setting},hooked everything back up and still got the 2 led lights.....
Then decided to replace all the fuses with new,and this time no led's and the set is up and running !!

I have 2 fans on order that should come next week !
ordered from coolerguys the cabcool 1201 kit {one exhaust near P/S board, and one intake onto the convergence board !}

From reading some of the newer posts.....,it seems as though there are better or newer style STK's ?? {unless I'm not reading it right ?}

I ordered the same part as the last time ? is there a better part for my elite 510 ?
post #1297 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by billfish33 View Post

I rechecked the fuses on the P/S board,they seemed OK ? {checked in the 200 ohm setting as well as sound setting},hooked everything back up and still got the 2 led lights.....
Then decided to replace all the fuses with new,and this time no led's and the set is up and running !!

Hope the fuses you changed were identical in amperage rating to what came out. DK why you got the results above, makes no sense, if they were working before, as your tests say...

Quote:


I have 2 fans on order that should come next week !
ordered from coolerguys the cabcool 1201 kit {one exhaust near P/S board, and one intake onto the convergence board !}

Be sure the exhause fan is higher up than the intake fan -

Quote:


From reading some of the newer posts.....,it seems as though there are better or newer style STK's ?? {unless I'm not reading it right ?}

I ordered the same part as the last time ? is there a better part for my elite 510 ?

See my post above for the best ICs to use on the 510/610/710 series.


Mr Bob
post #1298 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Thanks! Glad I can help.


The 150s are also significantly better than the 110s, and can be used very well if you can't find/get the 180s.

Longevity is really the only real issue here. I have used all types, and they all do the job of convergence just fine. But the 150s should have more of a chance at lasting the remaining life of your set. The original 110s from back then were just not built nearly as strong as the present day 150s and 180s are.

Same happened with the STK 4273s, used in the early models of Mit CRT RPTV and other brands. They were eventually replaced with the stronger - and in this case even thicker! - 4274s.


Mr Bob


Fitting the convergence in the way H in a pair of corners the red one is deformed and does not allow adjustment however much I rise and under the values of adjustment it does not change, and this gives a red tone in the area when I reproduce movies, I had hope that there were the STK supposedly of low quality, and I have entrusted some of mark SANYO that come to me on Monday, but for what you say my problem it is not there, also in way H finds it hard to leave very much the completely straight lines and that degrades the quality of image, in other ways of screen if I fit very well quite, mysteries of the electronics I suppose, but I am quite demanding with the quality of image and I want to manage the best possible, My Pio alone has really 2 years of use, I buy it in 2000 but it has been 5 years without working, and is seen as piece of news, except the adjustment of convergence in HD, of corse
post #1299 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Thanks! Glad I can help.


The 150s are also significantly better than the 110s, and can be used very well if you can't find/get the 180s.

Longevity is really the only real issue here. I have used all types, and they all do the job of convergence just fine. But the 150s should have more of a chance at lasting the remaining life of your set. The original 110s from back then were just not built nearly as strong as the present day 150s and 180s are.

Same happened with the STK 4273s, used in the early models of Mit CRT RPTV and other brands. They were eventually replaced with the stronger - and in this case even thicker! - 4274s.


Mr Bob

please it looks at the photos and edges what is happening
IMAG0089.jpg below appear a few lines plucked out of range and it happens with 3 colors, the line does not occupy all the breadth
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #1300 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by prismagla View Post

please it looks at the photos and edges what is happening
IMAG0089.jpg below appear a few lines plucked out of range and it happens with 3 colors, the line does not occupy all the breadth

The set's internally gen'd grid can be used for lots of the geometry, but has nothing at the top and has scattered extra parts at the bottom. It leaves a lot to be desired.

Best way is to use it as much as you can - like getting the top and bottom box heights the same as the middles - and then go to an externally sent in grid, punching the Yellow button on the remote once inside the conv sm, to show the external info rather than the internal grid.

But yours needs a lot more work than that.

All the boxes need to be the same size, and this is a mammoth task, esp. when you have gotten them all out of whack so far, as is shown here. I don't see any problem with your ICs, don't think they are bad.

But your geometry is really hosed, and needs a very high level of intuitive/professional grade attention, to get right now. Those points all interact with each other, and have some very esoteric ways of being, that you can only begin to decipher after doing this job dozens of times, like I have. It is NOT for the faint of heart! If you had written down all your point values before you started, at least you could get back to where you started. Now it's anybody's guess. You can't just zero out point values on Pioneers and start over like you can on Mits's, doesn't work that way with Pioneer. You might find their reset in there, but I have never tried it and don't know if it would improve things or not. Might make them considerably worse.

I am available for phone consultation if you want to go that route. To tell you the truth, very few people on the continent would be capable of pulling this one off, and if you have no experience before now, you're not one of them. I and a few other old-time calibrators who cut their teeth on CRT tech will be able to pull this off, that's about it. Fly me in if you want to be sure to get it right.

Let me know how you'd like to proceed -


Mr Bob
post #1301 of 2919
Greetings. About two years ago I was one of the many who encountered the blue flash problem. Thanks to this forum I was able to remove the PS board and fix the unit myself. A few days ago, I noticed the picture very briefly distorting for the first few minutes after it was turned on. I thought the problem might be with the satellite tuner but after allowing it to cool down and powering it up three or four times, I realized it was the set, mainly because the third time I turned it on the screen shifted and I saw that dreaded blue colored flash again, however, this time it was accompanied by screen distortion and quickly snapped back to normal rather than the slow buildup that occurred before.

I once again came back to this forum and saw Mr. Bob's suggestion that the entire PS board be resoldered, save the test points and heat syncs, I proceeded to follow those instructions. The set came up and worked for a couple of days and then the distortion happened again (once) and the set quickly shut itself off. The red light was lit on the front but the set would not power up.

Again consulting this forum, I checked and found a blown 5A 125V fuse (the one with a paper label directly below the left hand row of power transistors) on the PS board. I also went through the entire board to make sure that there were no bridged solder connections. I cases where there was any doubt I used desoldering braid to remove and resolder the connections more cleanly. (I am a relatively experienced at soldering).

Now, when I plug the unit in I hear a faint, high pitched whistle for a few seconds and then a relay clicks and the power down red light illuminates on the PS board. After which I quickly unplugged the unit.

I checked and no other lights are coming on in the unit and I've gone over the PS board a few times to make sure I haven't missed any bridged connections. If there are any there, they aren't visible to the naked eye or an eye assisted with two magnifying glasses to make things REALLY big.

Any suggestions on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

- Tom V
Central NJ
post #1302 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Hope the fuses you changed were identical in amperage rating to what came out. DK why you got the results above, makes no sense, if they were working before, as your tests say...



Be sure the exhause fan is higher up than the intake fan -



See my post above for the best ICs to use on the 510/610/710 series.


Mr Bob

Bob:

Each fuse was changed with it's exact amp rating,{I ordered about 10 each the 1st time this happened}
wish I knew about the 180 series STK's, the next time this happens,I'll just order those !

Thanks
post #1303 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by vosseler View Post

Greetings. About two years ago I was one of the many who encountered the blue flash problem. Thanks to this forum I was able to remove the PS board and fix the unit myself. A few days ago, I noticed the picture very briefly distorting for the first few minutes after it was turned on. I thought the problem might be with the satellite tuner but after allowing it to cool down and powering it up three or four times, I realized it was the set, mainly because the third time I turned it on the screen shifted and I saw that dreaded blue colored flash again, however, this time it was accompanied by screen distortion and quickly snapped back to normal rather than the slow buildup that occurred before.

I once again came back to this forum and saw Mr. Bob's suggestion that the entire PS board be resoldered, save the test points and heat syncs, I proceeded to follow those instructions. The set came up and worked for a couple of days and then the distortion happened again (once) and the set quickly shut itself off. The red light was lit on the front but the set would not power up.

Again consulting this forum, I checked and found a blown 5A 125V fuse (the one with a paper label directly below the left hand row of power transistors) on the PS board. I also went through the entire board to make sure that there were no bridged solder connections. I cases where there was any doubt I used desoldering braid to remove and resolder the connections more cleanly. (I am a relatively experienced at soldering).

Now, when I plug the unit in I hear a faint, high pitched whistle for a few seconds and then a relay clicks and the power down red light illuminates on the PS board. After which I quickly unplugged the unit.

I checked and no other lights are coming on in the unit and I've gone over the PS board a few times to make sure I haven't missed any bridged connections. If there are any there, they aren't visible to the naked eye or an eye assisted with two magnifying glasses to make things REALLY big.

Any suggestions on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

- Tom V
Central NJ


If there were any bridged conns, the unit prolly wouldn't have powered on again at all until remedied. So I don't think you need to persist in that direction, you've done that one right.

Prolly just coincidental, from the timeframes you've mentioned, but I think your conv bd has gone down. It happens fairly frequently on CRT RPTV tech, no matter what the brand. I have seen it happen after reports of the PS bd problems, but also with none of those problems. It often happens just on its own. Those ICs are run awfully hard in there, they are literal workhorses in CRT tech.

The unit won't come on again if there is a blown 5A fuse and it goes to the conv circuit. Their protection sys sees to that. Try replacing that fuse with a good 5A F type. If it blows again, your conv ICs need to be replaced.

The red light on the conv bd won't come on if it's missing its plus or minus 24 volts, which go thru the 5A fuses to get there. If you're testing it with the 5A still blown, you'll stay stuck. Other brands/designs will allow the set to work with the conv voltage rails missing, Mit and Sony will show you a completely uncorrected conv paradigm with no sweat, unit will work fine except for the missing conv correction.

Not Pioneer. Designed differently.

If both rails are not hitting the conv bd intact, the unit won't turn on.


Mr Bob
post #1304 of 2919
So this is a bit of a mystery to me because I did replace the 5A fuse and still I'm not seeing any lights on the conv board and the 5A fuse is not blowing when I plug the unit back in. Will the fuse only blow if I try to power the display up as well? I haven't done that for fear of causing more damage (I have read this entire forum and have read, many times, your warnings). As soon as I see the power down light on the PS board, I unplug the unit.

I can also check to make sure the 24v is getting to the conv board if I know it's ok to leave the power up long enough to check. I don't want to cause further damage to the PS board but I also don't want to replace the conv board if the power isn't getting there.

If replacing the board will do the job, I'm happy to do that, however, I checked the Pioneer parts web site and see no convergence part listed at all. Do you know where I can get it or what the part number is from Pioneer?

Thanks for the assistance Mr. Bob. I'll be happy to make a deposit into your paypal account for the assistance. You're a rare find for those of us who are willing to get elbow deep into multi-thousand dollar electronics. :-)

- Tom
post #1305 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by vosseler View Post

So this is a bit of a mystery to me because I did replace the 5A fuse and still I'm not seeing any lights on the conv board and the 5A fuse is not blowing when I plug the unit back in. Will the fuse only blow if I try to power the display up as well? I haven't done that for fear of causing more damage (I have read this entire forum and have read, many times, your warnings). As soon as I see the power down light on the PS board, I unplug the unit.

I can also check to make sure the 24v is getting to the conv board if I know it's ok to leave the power up long enough to check. I don't want to cause further damage to the PS board but I also don't want to replace the conv board if the power isn't getting there.

If replacing the board will do the job, I'm happy to do that, however, I checked the Pioneer parts web site and see no convergence part listed at all. Do you know where I can get it or what the part number is from Pioneer?

Thanks for the assistance Mr. Bob. I'll be happy to make a deposit into your paypal account for the assistance. You're a rare find for those of us who are willing to get elbow deep into multi-thousand dollar electronics. :-)

- Tom

Do NOT replace the conv bd! Starting from absolute scratch on these units is not an option for most people, I wouldn't even want to do it myself unless absolutely necessary. I have my hands full every time I do an overscan reduction, I would be challenged the same way if I had to start completely from scratch.

If the conv bd is malfunctioning/needs repair, replace the ICs before trying anything else.

The unit has to be turned on before you'll see any voltage at the plus or minus 24v rails. Just don't keep it on for too long, we don't want it warming up at all. A minute or 2 should be adequate to see what's happening in there, without causing the expansion of the connections that warming up the set would cause.


Mr Bob
post #1306 of 2919
So I ordered two new ICs for the conv board and installed them, put everything back together and the set still won't come on. Still have the red power light on the front of the unit and the power down light on the back.

I decided to do some troubleshooting on the PS board (which I should have done first) and found that if I leave the blue and white power connector off and plug the unit and I don't get the problem. Hook that back up and I hear a high pitched whistle and after a few seconds a relay kicks and the power down light comes on.

Since there's no voltage going to the conv board and this wire appears to go to the guns, I'm thinking the problem is more serious than one of the three boards that are discussed in this forum, no?

Any ideas on what I can try next?

- Tom
post #1307 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by vosseler View Post

So I ordered two new ICs for the conv board and installed them, put everything back together and the set still won't come on. Still have the red power light on the front of the unit and the power down light on the back.

I decided to do some troubleshooting on the PS board (which I should have done first) and found that if I leave the blue and white power connector off and plug the unit and I don't get the problem. Hook that back up and I hear a high pitched whistle and after a few seconds a relay kicks and the power down light comes on.

Since there's no voltage going to the conv board and this wire appears to go to the guns, I'm thinking the problem is more serious than one of the three boards that are discussed in this forum, no?

Any ideas on what I can try next?

- Tom


Any of the bds in there in the back showing a red LED on?
post #1308 of 2919
Only the PS board has the red light after the relay kicks and that one connector is connected. Disconnect the connector with the blue and white wires (labeled DIRECT TO SW) and the red light doesn't come on when I plug in the unit.

Looks to me like this goes to the guns but I have to take the front of the set apart to get a better look.

- Tom
post #1309 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by vosseler View Post

Only the PS board has the red light after the relay kicks and that one connector is connected. Disconnect the connector with the blue and white wires (labeled DIRECT TO SW) and the red light doesn't come on when I plug in the unit.

Looks to me like this goes to the guns but I have to take the front of the set apart to get a better look.

- Tom

Have never experimented with that conn on this set. Can't say. Prolly more than this thread will cover.

The conv bd can have problems and not show its trouble light, if the bd is not getting its proper voltages. Have you checked it for its plus and minus 24v? I'd check at the PS bd first, then if they are there as they should be, check for them at the conv bd. You may have only 1 second to check for them during turn-on then power down/protection.

Double check all fuses, esp. the 5A's that deliver the plus/minus 24v's.


Mr Bob
post #1310 of 2919
I am new to this forum, so hope this posts OK... I have spent MANY hours reading this thread on the Pio. Elite PS board problems, and I have a slightly different new twist: 3 years ago, I found this thread when searching for answers on my "Blue flash" problem. The PS board was totally resoldered and the problem was fixed. Now--jump ahead 3 years- I start getting the loud POP & power down. I come back here and find it's the PS board (again). SO--the board was totally resoldered AGAIN. Problem solved, BUT - NOT SO FAST! Now I'm getting an intermittent "shake" in the picture. It's a fairly "light" shaking, seemingly more pronounced maybe in the upper half or even in quadrants?? It's hard to describe, and is too intermittent to get a good read on it. The shakiness is present on graphics, still pics, moving video, etc., and is present on all video inputs. It sometimes lasts seconds or minutes, and sometimes not again for several days.
Any Ideas??
BTW-- I didn't believe the reports on results of optics cleaning, but after doing just "surface" cleaning, the picture is NEW AGAIN... AMAZING!! Now if I can get this thing working properly again, I think I'll keep it and get the full calibration / deep optics cleaning done.
Thanks in advance for any ideas, and this Mr. Bob guy seems to really know his business! Keep it up!
post #1311 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by roberson7 View Post

I am new to this forum, so hope this posts OK... I have spent MANY hours reading this thread on the Pio. Elite PS board problems, and I have a slightly different new twist: 3 years ago, I found this thread when searching for answers on my "Blue flash" problem. The PS board was totally resoldered and the problem was fixed. Now--jump ahead 3 years- I start getting the loud POP & power down. I come back here and find it's the PS board (again). SO--the board was totally resoldered AGAIN. Problem solved, BUT - NOT SO FAST! Now I'm getting an intermittent "shake" in the picture. It's a fairly "light" shaking, seemingly more pronounced maybe in the upper half or even in quadrants?? It's hard to describe, and is too intermittent to get a good read on it. The shakiness is present on graphics, still pics, moving video, etc., and is present on all video inputs. It sometimes lasts seconds or minutes, and sometimes not again for several days.
Any Ideas??
BTW-- I didn't believe the reports on results of optics cleaning, but after doing just "surface" cleaning, the picture is NEW AGAIN... AMAZING!! Now if I can get this thing working properly again, I think I'll keep it and get the full calibration / deep optics cleaning done.
Thanks in advance for any ideas, and this Mr. Bob guy seems to really know his business! Keep it up!

I would double check your board for any solder bridges.

When I resolder a board, I use a magnifier hood plus my reading glasses, with one eye covered so my far vision will not be adversely affected by parallaxing my eyes - going crosseyed from beading down on one closeup conn after another, with both eyes. Your eyes unconsciously focus when you do that, causing my far vision to suffer later.

After I am done I go over the board 2-3 times, all over, scrutinizing it very heavily. I leave NOTHING to chance.

Can't guaranty I would solve your problem if you sent me the board, but NONE of them have come back that I have resoldered, of the ones owners have sent me.

If that doesn't do it, you may have to get a new board, unfortunately. Which board is anybody's guess. The defl. bd may be the problem now, tho I have not heard of this problem in ANY of the x10 units, so really can't say.


Mr Bob
post #1312 of 2919
I had written earlier about the power down light on the PS board only coming on when the blue and white wire that was running from the PS board was connected. Turns out that "DIRECT TO SW" means direct to switch which is the power switch under the swivel panel on the front of the unit, so the behavior makes a lot of sense. :-)

I did some more diagnostics and found that leaving the connection to the signal assembly board disconnected (larger white nylon connector running horizontally at the top of the PS board [don't have it in front of me]) allows the board to power up without getting the power down light.

I disconnected a bunch of stuff to get to it and removed it from the chassis and found some obviously blown components on the board. Ones small enough that it's obvious when they've been hit with too much juice. They are too small to fix manually so the board would have to be replaced and it's a $550 board.

In addition, since the blown components (I think they are small transistors) are right by the bus connections and that bus connects direct to the cpu board along with having it's own components, I'm thinking that replacing the board is only going to get me one step further. Having seen excessive voltage blow lots of things at once in other cases, I'm guessing that this is just the first in a chain of things that are bad.

Oh well. I guess I'm going TV shopping this weekend.

- Tom
post #1313 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by vosseler View Post

I had written earlier about the power down light on the PS board only coming on when the blue and white wire that was running from the PS board was connected. Turns out that "DIRECT TO SW" means direct to switch which is the power switch under the swivel panel on the front of the unit, so the behavior makes a lot of sense. :-)

I did some more diagnostics and found that leaving the connection to the signal assembly board disconnected (larger white nylon connector running horizontally at the top of the PS board [don't have it in front of me]) allows the board to power up without getting the power down light.

I disconnected a bunch of stuff to get to it and removed it from the chassis and found some obviously blown components on the board. Ones small enough that it's obvious when they've been hit with too much juice. They are too small to fix manually so the board would have to be replaced and it's a $550 board.

In addition, since the blown components (I think they are small transistors) are right by the bus connections and that bus connects direct to the cpu board along with having it's own components, I'm thinking that replacing the board is only going to get me one step further. Having seen excessive voltage blow lots of things at once in other cases, I'm guessing that this is just the first in a chain of things that are bad.

Oh well. I guess I'm going TV shopping this weekend.

- Tom

Unfortunately, visibly blown components on a board are usually just the tip of the iceberg. When the defl bd blows, and when the conv bd blows, NOTHING shows...




Mr Bob

PS - there's an Elite unit nearby available, if you want to get some more predictable stuff repaired on it -

My fully calibrated and fully operational 65" CRT Panny is available, and its picture is even better than a fully calibrated Pioneer Elite's -
post #1314 of 2919
I perused this thread quite a bit last year - very helpful - local guy tried some repairs - worked for a bit - didn't know what he was doing I think - still has the shutdown problem. It works for a bit then usually shuts down, so wife wants it gone! It's available free to anyone interested in picking it up in Santa Monica, CA. I have it list in the classified section - maybe someone in this thread is interested?
post #1315 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhaygood View Post

I perused this thread quite a bit last year - very helpful - local guy tried some repairs - worked for a bit - didn't know what he was doing I think - still has the shutdown problem. It works for a bit then usually shuts down, so wife wants it gone! It's available free to anyone interested in picking it up in Santa Monica, CA. I have it list in the classified section - maybe someone in this thread is interested?

He prolly just resoldered the squawked about areas, and later more of the rest of them went. Have said over and over again, every conn that goes anywhere on that board and wasn't resoldered later already, like the gray wires and components with rosin still showing on them, needs to be resoldered. If not, then next year a whole new set of conns will go out, as the set continues to age, from that bad factory soldering job they did on that board. No others in the unit have that schlocky factory soldering job, just that one.

From what you're saying, the PS bd simply needs that more thorough resoldering job, like I do on it, where I never see that board again, because my soldering jobs STAY.

Do it yourself or send it to me -


Mr Bob
post #1316 of 2919
[/url]

[/url]

[/url]

[/url]

[/url]

[/url]

[/url]

[/url]

[/url]
post #1317 of 2919
Guys,
My Pioneer Pro-610HD does not turn on anymore. There are two red LEDs on. One on the PS board and one on the deflection board. I decided not to repair and ordered another TV. If anyone is interested in having this set for parts or what have you it is yours for taking it away. You can pick it up at curbside. I live in Orange County CA. Contact me if you are interested.
post #1318 of 2919
To all Chicago area people that have Pioneer
problems or just want their set cleaned/calibrated:

I just spoke to Bob tonight. He is is MN caring for 6
different sets. He will finish up next Thurs. in MN.
I am trying to put together a visit to Chicago to do my
set and I am looking for individuals interested in
getting theirs serviced by Mr. Bob. He emailed me
the price list which I can forward if interested.
The MN people have already paid for his airline leg home
so all we would have to split is a roundtrip flight from MN
to Chicago.
SO WHO IS INTERESTED???
CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY IF WE ARE GOING TO BE
ABLE TO PUT THIS TOGETHER. DON'T WAIT!
The guy I spoke to tonight was very satisfied with
his result.
Contact me soon at:
pitpro AT yahoo.com
post #1319 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo-man View Post

Guys,
My Pioneer Pro-610HD does not turn on anymore. There are two red LEDs on. One on the PS board and one on the deflection board. I decided not to repair and ordered another TV. If anyone is interested in having this set for parts or what have you it is yours for taking it away. You can pick it up at curbside. I live in Orange County CA. Contact me if you are interested.

Replacing the defl bd should repair this unit completely. Not all of this series needs the PS bd resoldered, evidently. This owner is not reporting any intermittent problems.

As such this may be all she needs.

Hopefully some intrepid soul will hop on this. The 610 is one awesome machine, just cleaned and calibrated one last night, turned out spectacular. Its owner has very low hours on it, like around 3000, where the usual is around 10,000 by now. It just sparkles now, I actually had to turn the contrast down a bit, in sm!

Same with the 510 I am currently working on. Turned down the sm internal contrast by 5 clicks. He can always turn it back up in user, but was so bright after the optics cleaning that he agreed it should be turned down a bit.

I am having so much fun, here in MN!



Mr Bob
post #1320 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo-man View Post

Guys,
My Pioneer Pro-610HD does not turn on anymore. There are two red LEDs on. One on the PS board and one on the deflection board. I decided not to repair and ordered another TV. If anyone is interested in having this set for parts or what have you it is yours for taking it away. You can pick it up at curbside. I live in Orange County CA. Contact me if you are interested.

I would like the 610 for parts to keep mine alive. What city are you in? I would have to arrange a truck and 2 days off. Give me an idea where you are and how long you would hold it...
I'm in AZ.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem