An owner just emailed me that his set has this problem and wondered how much it would cost to fix if he sent me the board. Part of my response -
It's eminently affordable for a set that cost what yours did when you bought it, as it is still capable of that incredible picture, even today. Have you seen the screenshots of pix I have snapped from sets of your vintage recently? If not let me know and I'll direct you, so you can see what your set CAN and SHOULD be looking like right now.
(Of course right here to this thread, a few pages back, is where I will send him!
The price I charge is a few paragraphs down. But even before you scroll down to find it:
Please stop using your set! The next time it shuts down could be the time it sends a horrific spike down the power supply lines and takes out a board downline. Then it starts getting expensive. Right now the cost to restore it is very minor, especially in comparison to costs later, which in many cases total the unit. This is a degenerative problem, and like needed dental work, never gets better on its own. Only worse, till it takes your set down.
Here’s the skivvy –
If you are still running your set with the intermittencies happening occasionally, TURN IT OFF NOW AND UNPLUG IT UNTIL TIME TO SEND THE BOARD! If it has shown signs of occasional malfunction and you are still running it, you are playing Russian Roulette with your multi-thousand dollar investment. If you are watching it as we speak, run - don't walk - up to it, and unplug it or turn off its master power switch. If the remote is closeby you can reach for that also, but disconnecting its circuitry entirely from the wall power is what is most important, here.
The ONE exception (The "One last time" Rule):
Before you remove the board and send it to me, be sure to run your set FROM DEAD COLD one last time for under a minute, just to check that it’s working OK. Do NOT give your set time to warm up again! Even once! Not till your PS board has been TOTALLY restored to TOTALLY stable operation again.
Once you have confirmed that it has a solid, normal, coherent picture, while it's still on, unplug it and proceed to removing the board. When you get the board back and plug it back in, the set will turn itself on automatically, so be sure everything is back in place before plugging the wall cord back into the 120v outlet. This allows you to keep watch FROM THE BACK as the set powers up again for the first time after the board resolder repair.
With the unit unplugged, follow the power cord, from the 120v outlet at the wall. It goes directly to that board, the PS/Power Supply board. Do NOT remove the slanted plastic back, up above. Your optics could get permanently damaged. Just the fiberboard plate, on the LOWER half of the set, in the back. Confirm that the board is mounted vertically to the bulkhead of the set, on your right as you are looking in from the back. If so, it's the board in question.
Pull all the conn'rs off the board at all points before removing the board, which comes off with just 1 screw holding the entire metal frame to the rear wall of the set. Do NOT disturb the wiring bundling by tearing off the tape, shrinkwrap or tie-wraps holding the wires together. It will be needed when you re-install the board, to make sure all plugs go into their proper jacks. You can't plug anything in wrong, as each plug is of a different type or number of pins from each of the others. But keep the bundling in place anyway, undisturbed, JIC.
Leave the board on that frame, I will remove the small screws all around it once it has arrived. Pull upward on it and it will come off its slots for you.
INSURE IT FOR AT LEAST $400!!! One owner didn't, sent it Fedex, and when the gorillas damaged it beyond repair, all he got out of the deal was $100 from them, from which he had to then buy a replacement board. Another owner insured it for $5000 in case the board became both unusable and unavaible, totalling his set. His board was damaged in shipment too and no, he didn't ask for the full $5000, but at least he got covered enough for the repair fee and then some.
So don't be penny wise and pound foolish. INSURE IT.
Use big bubble wrap on it, in packing it, and an OVERSIZED BOX. An ideal size is 15x15x22. I have had 10 damaged boards so far to have had to contend with by now, because of the gorillas that work for all the shipping places. Don’t take any chances, they require AT LEAST 2” on all sides of clearance between the board and the box, no matter how well the insides of the box are cushioned, and because the board is very wide and flat even that is not enough. Lay it slanted rather than flat, so the board sides are even farther away from the edges of the box, in case they drop the box on its side. Don’t tape that bubble wrap, just leave it dangling, and PLEASE don’t use styrofoam popcorn! It gets all over the place. Crumpled up paper works just fine. If you MUST use the popcorn, SEAL IT in plastic bags. Grocery bags would work, and are free. Overfill your box a bit and tamp it down in any case when you're closing it up, so that once the board is in there, it is secured in place and can't move around in there.
In the email I returned to him I then go into what I charge and other details, like where to send it. If you want the rest of that that info, please contact me by calling or emailing me directly, not by pm please.