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Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 61

post #1801 of 2919
I am sure you will find whatever you want if you surf the internet hard enough. But this thing you want to cure is not easy stuff. What needs to happen now is the geo/conv alignment of your picture structure. Very few people know how to do this anymore, or are willing to do it anymore. They all seem to want that quick easy fixed pixel money for today's newest calibrations.

I will continue to make myself available for CRT calibrations, because I love them. I will continue to do them till they have completely disappeared, which I hope will continue to be many years from now. There are various ways to enlist my help, if you need it, including by phone.

But if you want to get it done for free, surfing will probably be your best bet. Hope you get the right information.

If you want the right information out of the starting gate, I am available by phone or in person.


b
post #1802 of 2919
This was just posted in a Hitachi thread, thought I'd share it with you here. Cal tours cover all sorts of brands, not just one.

If you'd like to climb on board, contact both him and me. Me directly, not be pm please -

b


Quote:
Originally Posted by CubsWin1 View Post

I have spoken with Bob and would like to get him out for a tour in the Chicago area, whether other people are interested or if it ends up being just me. I have tried contacting a few other potentially interested parties, but haven't got any responses. If anyone is serious about wanting in, send me a PM and we can discuss further.
post #1803 of 2919
Thanks to Mr. Bob and all the great information he provided I have the PWS problem resolved however I am in need of some additional information so perhaps someone out there ca assist me.

In the service manual (ARP3051) using factory mode settings I am trying to adjust the overscan and horizontal settings but before I do so I need to under stand what H PHA (15k), H PHA (33k) mean. My problem is that the picture is too wide and also needs to be centered. The vertical size is perfect. If someone can provide instructions and the sequence for doing this I would very much appreciate it.
post #1804 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgelber View Post

Thanks to Mr. Bob and all the great information he provided I have the PWS problem resolved however I am in need of some additional information so perhaps someone out there ca assist me.

In the service manual (ARP3051) using factory mode settings I am trying to adjust the overscan and horizontal settings but before I do so I need to under stand what H PHA (15k), H PHA (33k) mean. My problem is that the picture is too wide and also needs to be centered. The vertical size is perfect. If someone can provide instructions and the sequence for doing this I would very much appreciate it.

H PHA is the hor positioning. 15K is SD/480i/p, 33K is HD/1080i. Neither has anything to do with the width of the pic.

Vertical size is global, affecting both SD and HD.

O'scan redux is not for the faint of heart. There are things you won't know about until after you've tripped their land mines. A phone consultation with someone TOTALLY adept at them is your best bet.


b
post #1805 of 2919
Hey, new to this forum as a contributor, but wanted to reiterate hope for Elite RP owners out there...

Our set started doing the "black-screen" thing last year, and we stumbled upon Mr. Bob's comments...ended up pulling out the PS board and shipping it to him in San Fran. The set had become totally disabled by that point, so we were not too hopeful that a *simple* re-solder would salvage it. We were wrong. A small number of $$$ and a couple of weeks later, our set was completely back and rock-solid.

Earlier this year, then, when one day the convergence just went haywire and the picture split into two out-of-sync pink/green images (attached), we sought out advice from Mr. Bob again.

He said "sounds like just the Conv bd...send it over" and sure enough, a few new ICs later, we were again plugging in a board, and finding our set entirely restored.

For months prior to finding this forum, we had fretted that our only real option was going to be rolling the Elite down to the end of the driveway for the garbage collectors, and buying a new set. Mind you, we had had a factory-authorized service guy out the first time around, and while he was nice enough and appeared genuinely earnest in his desire and efforts to figure out the problem, he had absolutely no idea what was wrong, or what to do. In fact, being in Pittsburgh, he had actually never even seen one of the Elite sets and was hugely surprised when he opened up the back and found a pile more than the usual 2 boards...

In any case, here's what I wrote back to Mr. Bob last month...the sentiment goes to all of you who volunteer your time and efforts to share knowledge and help folks out just because it's the right thing to do:

"Bob, you did it again...our Elite PRO 510-HD fired up perfectly with
the renewed Conv BD. Thank you!!

Later in the year, hopefully, we will be able to afford having you fly
out to clean off the lenses and fine-tune everything...until then just
know that you have our gratitude...it's so amazing that the internet
could bring specialists like you to end-users' doorstep and that
perfectly good equipment could be saved from simply rolling out to the
trash heap, isn't it? This is such a Disposable Society...nobody even
thinks about fixing things any more, and even truly competent Service
People are hard to find...

Anyway, you're restored more than our TV, if you get what I'm saying.
Many thanks.
"
LL
LL
post #1806 of 2919
Hello Mr.Bob,
I have the same thing listed there happening with my TV a Pioneer ELITE PRO-510HD. It pops, shrinks and goes off and wont come back on. It has happened a few times and I just powered it off for a time and it worked again. At the moment it wont stay on at all. I powered it off and unplugged it for over 3 hours and when I turned it all back on the light goes to green for about a second and the clicks off and red light is on. When I shut the main power off for a few seconds and try again it repeats the same thing. I opened the lower back panel and two red lights show up after the shutdown. By these two separate lights it indicates the light is for (I am guessing),"Power down". I don't know what to do to fix this... Does it need repair and if so what would be the best to fix the problem. I also see that you have spoke of HDMI conversions, tuning up these TV to top notch performance what do you charge for doing this and how would we go about it, that it unless this TV is ruined? Thanks for your Help I have included two pics showing the RED lit lights.
Thanks for the help.

post #1807 of 2919
I highly recommend that anyone wanting to be in the know about this problem, to at least read some of this thread!



All the answers to your ?'s (except pricing) are contained in the previous page of this thread, starting with post 1777. For pricing contact me directly please, and NOT by pm. Suffice it to say that what it costs to fix it is a drop in the bucket compared to buying new, to get the kind of quality that's even somewhat similar to what this set is capable of. These sets are classic, they are EMMINENTLY worth fixing, even today, and owners all over the continent are keeping them alive and for good reason, via this thread. These are AWESOME sets.

Go 1 page back on this thread and read that entire page - if that's too rich for your blood, read at least my entries, the ones from Mr Bob. Most of what you need to know is there. For how awesome your set can look after being saved, you WILL have to go farther back. Scroll pages till you see pictures. I believe page 45 was good for those, you'll see how AMAZING these sets can still look, and why this thread about how to save them is still going strong, after more than 4 years here...

Page 58 has a pictorial with among other things before and afters on a set of your vintage. It also talks about the shimming op and how much it can improve your pix.


You have let it go just a little too far without taking action, and have now blown your conv bd. If you had followed the advice that's been repeated over and over on this thread, you woulda shut your set down at the first sign of trouble and it would never have gotten this far.

That said, lots of times this happens out of the blue without any warning, and without any intermittent ops acting as warnings. Which is on Pioneer, not the owner.

Whenever the conv bd LED goes on, chances are its ICs are blown and need to be replaced. That's usually all that goes wrong when the red LED on the conv bd is glowing.

Best way to handle it is to get that done first, then turn on your set, and if that was the problem it will work again. But then you gotta SHUT IT DOWN PROMPTLY - within 40 seconds - do NOT allow it to warm up at all. Keep it stone cold.

The problem with the conv bd is usually the hinky conns in the PS bd having sent it a dangerous voltage spike, once the set has warmed up to cruising temp. You can send the conv bd to me to get the ICs replaced, and once the set is up and running again/ops have returned, then the PS bd should then be sent to me for resoldering. Again from dead cold and without warming up the set. This means WITHOUT the set being run again for more than 40 seconds, after having been off enough to thoroughly cool down. Let it go cold and DON'T allow it to warm up again until the PS bd has been resoldered.

Any set that has normal ops most of the time but with the intermittents currently happening should shut their set down immediately, even if you're presently watching it while you read this. The spike that will take your set down hard and cost you expensive board replacements or repairs could be just minutes - or even seconds - away. SHUT YOUR SET DOWN NOW. Then keep reading.



Here's a reprint from the previous page, the reference to Baltimore is still valid, the second trip is now forming, get on board if you want in. His set's PS bd has not yet taken out the conv bd, but most likely it will if he keeps running it. Note that I do not recommend changeout of the PS or conv bds, neither one will need replacement. The ONLY board that ever needs replacement is the deflection board, if it goes that far.

If your set has now been turned off and is presently cooling down, please continue reading:


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbt3027 View Post

I'm a Pioneer 710HD owner. I've read this thread, and notice a majority of the people with the power supply issue are seeing flashing and hearing poping sounds. My problem is a dimming of the TV while watching it. The TV gets dark for a few seconds, then returns to normal after a while (sometimes immediately, sometimes after about 20 seconds or so). The input doesn't matter (component and rgb are what I use the most). I don't hear any popping or see any flashing of any kind, so I wanted to know from the forum if this is a problem that has been experienced by someone else, or is this the precursor to the Power Supply issue?

If so, my next question is where do I get the proper hardware for the fix, and how do I get it fixed (along with getting my TV calibrated, as it has never been professionally calibrated since I had it)?

I'm in the Baltimore/Washington area, and prefer to have a service tech come out to service the TV rather than try and remove parts, or move the TV myself. I truly have a fear of damaging this TV, and don't want to take any chances being a DIY novice.

I was just in Baltimore, and have a Mit to finish once the part that was ordered is installed by the owner. That should get it working again, at which point we will be looking at me coming back there to fully calibrate it, including the shimming op for o'scan redux.

If you want to be part of that, contact me. I would be glad to calibrate your set, and to fix it as well. There aren't very many calibrators left who are qualified to bring out the best in CRT RPTV anymore. I not only do that, but also fully restore your PS board, whether sent to me or on location with your unit.

The important thing right now is to STOP USING YOUR SET before expensive damage downline from that PS board occurs. DON'T let it warm up to cruising temp again till restored, not even once. Those cold solder joints on the PS board that are now failing in units all over the continent can take many manifestations, and yours is but one that we've heard of here, of the many reported on this thread.

IF IT'S AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM YOU'RE EXPERIENCING ON YOUR 510/610/710 or 520/620/720 - or the non-Elite versions of the same years - YOU CAN TRUST THAT THE COLD SOLDER CONNECTIONS ON YOUR PS BOARD ARE THE SOURCE OF THAT PROBLEM. Don't take any chances on your multi-thousand dollar unit. Shut it down until your PS board has had the proper attention. Only half the x20 series was affected because they used the same board as the x10 series, but ALL of the x10 series was affected.


If you want to preserve the precision of how your 710 was set up at the factory - highly recommended, the things we do as calibrators build completely on that - DON'T get a new/replacement PS bd for it. That would be starting from scratch, and possibly with a repair tech who has NO idea what real calibration is all about. Voltage and current regulation only have to fall within certain parameters on the PS bd, which supplies ALL the voltages for the rest of the unit, including other power supplies downline from it. Each set is then set up from THAT PS board, the one it was assembled with. No other board will have that same combination of currents and voltages. Yours is the only board that will preserve EVERYTHING the factory did for your set.

For that reason it is best to get THAT board restored completely, rather than replacing it with ANY other board.


Contact me directly if you want to send me the board. It is a piece of cake to get out and put back in, owners all over the country are doing it - not just those who are technically inclined but newbies and totally non-handy types as well.

If you can find a tech willing to just remove the board so you can send it, have someone do that. Should cost you next to nothing. Or if you have a brother or cousin who is handy with a screwdriver, they could do it as well.

I am always glad to coach whoever needs it on the phone, no charge, in how to get it out and put it back in.


b
post #1808 of 2919
BTW, the Mit 73" in Baltimore has now been repaired successfully and is awaiting my return to do the rest of the work that could not get done with the set needing repair on my last visit.

So at least 2 owners are already on board. Contact me directly - not by pm please - if you want in on my upcoming trip to that area.


b
post #1809 of 2919
I just added one little paragraph above, after saying how often it has been said here that the unit needs to be shut down at the first sign of intermittents.

"That said, lots of times this happens out of the blue without any warning, and without any intermittent ops acting as warnings. Which is on Pioneer, not the owner."


b
post #1810 of 2919
Zodiac, what's the status?


b
post #1811 of 2919
Bob,

I left you a phone message earlier today.

I had contacted you a few weeks ago concerning my 710HD where the RED, GREEN, and BLUE are split and the picture looks wavy on channel 1, when connected to the components ports. I did bypass the problem by using channel 2 component connections. I have heard no pops or any other noises. I do get some reduction in brightness immediately when I start the 710HD. I also use an HDFury2 to connect to the HDMI cable from the Denon receiver, and then from the HDFury2 component cables to channel 2.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Gary


Quote:
Originally Posted by RajT View Post
Hello everyone,

I need some help with my Pioneer Elite 510HD. All of a sudden the picture on the TV is all screwed up to where the RED, GREEN, and BLUE are split and the picture looks wavy. I am suspecting that one of the resisters on the convergence board is shot but I don not know which board is the convergence board. I did smell something burning as soon as it happened so a resister definetly went. Any help or suggesting is greatful.

RT

This sounds like a convergence problem. It usually doesn't involve a burnt resistor on this series, but since the ICs usually croak and blow fuses, one resistor or another could very well be fried.

I would recommend changing out JUST the ICs and the blown resistor, NOT the board itself. Starting from scratch on geometry and convergence on CRT tech is not for the faint of heart, the impatient, the inexperienced nor the ill-advised...
post #1812 of 2919
As I said on the phone, I suspect the cold solder joint problem is just starting, and that you should take care of it immediately, and not use your set too much more until it's fixed. At the first sign of the problems listed here, get it in to me. If you don't want to take any chances and have read enough of this thread to know that you won't get out with your skin on this one without professional attention to it, send it now.


The input problem is affecting only input 1, so I suspect a cold solder joint on that input also, probably on the Y jack.


b
post #1813 of 2919
Bob, thanks for talking with me on the phone and your email. I was lucky to find a local repairman who has been in the large TV repair business for over 20 years, who re soldered all the solder joints on the power supply board and the output 1 on the Y jack. Cost me the exact amount you indicated, too!

Thanks for all your help and helping me to ensure the right solder areas were the problem!

Gary




The input problem is affecting only input 1, so I suspect a cold solder joint on that input also, probably on the Y jack.>
post #1814 of 2919
Great! Now you ready to really get your set looking superb? You don't let a Lamborghini sit around without being tuned up on a regular basis, if you want its best work...


b
post #1815 of 2919
Well I just got my STK392-180's and some other goddies then got on here to check on a few things. Me and a buddy are going to do as Mr. Bob instructed and swap em out. I'll let you know how it goes I also figured I would upload the manuals I have for those that need em'. I paid for em but you can have for free. Although if you have the ARP3086 manual please send me that one as its the only one I am missing. All are in PDF... Enjoy and good luck DIY'ers.

Pioneer Elite PRO-510HD & PRO-610HD Owners Manual - ARB1527.pdf (3.82 MB)
http://www.mediafire.com/?cdjjkhzdrmk
Pioneer Elite PRO-510HD & PRO-610HD Service Manuals- ARP3047 & ARP3051.pdf (20.65 MB)
http://www.mediafire.com/file/320o0qiyzmy
post #1816 of 2919
Ok well my buddy never showed up to help me install the STK392-180's... But all week I have been honing my soldering skills on old DirectTV recievers ,old radios and VCRs... All worked well once I desolderd parts, removed em' and reinstalled and solderd em back. That said I went ahead and replaced the 110's with the 180's myself with my 3year old watching close by(partialy calmly). A few minutes ago I just got the SOB all back together and sure enough as Mr Bob said it fired right up. No shutdown lights at all. I only let it run long enough to see the words pop up on the bottom right and then powered it down, about 10sec. I did it once more as my woman wanted to see that it infact worked again(partialy at least)... same 10 sec. Now it is unpluged and I just wanted to ask wether or not it is good or do I still need to resolder the PS board. I have no LED's lighting in the back either time I fired it up and never had a blue flickering problem in the first place. The people I originaly got it from a few years back said thay had it serviced, so the board may already have been resolderd. So should I do it anyway. Either way is fine by me I just dont want to hurt it more if it is already fine.
post #1817 of 2919
No way to know under the circs. The board may have been replaced and not have any of the original board's problems. Sometimes the conv ICs go out without the PS bd being at fault, just from age and many years of faithful service. Those conv ICs are really pushed hard in there, doing what they do.

At the first sign of any sort of intermittent connection, tho, you should shut it down immediately and remove the board and send it to me. Before it has a chance to get worse and worse till it takes your set down.

Don't try to resolder it on your own, as you are not a trained and experienced professional in the field. There are literally hundreds of tiny solder connections in there. You must get every one of them right without having even one solder bridge. It is an op that is not for the faint of heart, to say the least, it takes painstaking patience, dogged determination and excellent professional grade practices - magnification and excellent lighting for starters - to really do it right...


b
post #1818 of 2919
Calibrated by yours truly, of course...





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post #1819 of 2919
I'd love to get mine like that Mr Bob.. good looking screens

Well after removing the PS board I guess I can plainly see what the main problem is T101!! I guess this is why this happend and why I never had any blue flickering problem, looks like the on an off I was doing to make it work back before it went and I found this forum blew these joints all to hell. I am still going to re solder the E3, E5, IC202 & IC204 joints as well as fix this I guess. What could have cause this? See the first left and right pins on T101 Day-um! Also quick question are the 4 an 6 pins supposed to be bare on the T101 as you see here in the pic? I also included a pic of the E's to see if you all think theres any obvious poblems there as well.


post #1820 of 2919
This is the first time I have seen the transformer legs form the halo around them on these PS bds, but I'm not surprised. This used to happen all the time on the SD-P line. I saw one this way but much worse on the transformer of a JBL projector once. It was so big you could drive a truck thru it, COMPLETELY visible to the naked eye.

The bare pins yes are supposed to be bare.

The rest is moot. If you just partially solder this board and try to get individual points remedied that way, you have NOT done your homework in reading this thread, and have not discovered why a shotgun approach to this problem is the only one that works. Other connections that are fine now but have not been resoldered will go in short order sometime in the future, probably 6 months to a year from now, and you'll be back where you started, possibly with worse damage next time. Yours is even worse than most I've seen.

Read about how much of the soldering you need to do. It's a massive job, if you want it done right. If you are a professional grade solderer and have the temperament to be doing hundreds of fine, small connections and the patience to do every one of them thoroughly with the correct solder temperature without creating ANY solder bridges - and are willing to double and triple inspect your work afterwards, before allowing the board back into your set - have at it.

Otherwise, there are other options. One is sending it to me. If you elect to send it to me, it'll get done right for sure. It will be a permanent fix and won't go out on you again.

You were lucky the conv ICs are what went. If it had been the deflection board instead, the entire board woulda had to be replaced, at hundreds of dollars more than you have paid so far. We never even try to save those boards, they are too complex.

You've dodged a bullet this time. Don't push it -


b
post #1821 of 2919
I realize I come down a little hard on those who show up on this thread and ask question after question after question without ever reading anything else here in these huge number of pages, questions that virtually always have already been answered elsewhere here in this thread. I have even been congrat'd on my patience, with all the repetition I deal with every day!

My recommendation if you're new to this thread, is to please read at least the last page or 2 before chiming in. We have done LOADS of work here in this thread, we have singlehandedly come up with the solution to a problem that Pioneer has totally turned its back on. Hitachi went to the mattresses and came up with a whole new board that they install FREE to their owners, when their HDMI circuit was constantly going awry and having horizontal shifts, plus other anomalies. They install that completely redesigned board for ALL their owners, for FREE. Parts AND labor. They come to your home, you don't have to lift a finger.

Pioneer? They awhile ago were willing to give you a new PS bd, as long as their authorized people were allowed to do the installation of it. For a substantial fee, of course. More than I charge for resoldering your native PS board when you send it to me. And even THAT has now gone the way of the dinosaur. To Pioneer, you owners with the sets these problems are happening to are yesterday's news. You're on your own, to them. Completely out in the cold, flying in the wind. Try it. Call 'em. See what response you get.

But the intrepid readers of this thread kept chiming in whenever and whatever they could, and together we found a way to save their sets. Between me and other talented DIYers, we have saved literally TONS of these incredible sets from going down in flames and winding up in our country's already overburdened landfills. Beautiful sets, capable of incredibly faithful reproduction of HD - and SD - with not a thing wrong with them except a badly performed production operation on Pioneer's part, way back on the assembly line. A problem very straighforwardly solved.

The answers are here. I'm not saying go back to the beginning and read the whole thing, it takes more attention to do that than to resolder one of the PS boards!

But at least read the last page or 2, before chiming in. The essence of what we've learned is there. Check it out.

Then climb on board, help us continue saving these incredible machines!



Mr Bob
post #1822 of 2919
Wow Zodiak! You might as well have taken a picture of my power supply board. My pin 1 of T101 looked exactly like yours does. My issue also smoked something on my deflection board. I have since replaced the deflection board and performed triage on the power supply board. Besides the witness mark on pin 1 of T101, I also found a fractured solder connection of the grounded pin of the heat sink of IC 201. There were no other issues, but just to make sure I re-flowed each pin of each connector and touched up D101 which looked a little questionable. I also reviewed all other solder connections. This was not too bad as I have access to a 16x magnification Metcal soldering station.

By the way, it seems as though your photo also shows over-current witness marks and a fractured connection on pin 18 of T101 (across from pin 1).

Even though this board is as basic as you can get (single-sided, single layer, pass-through mount), if you are not comfortable with soldering many points in close proximity, I would recommend just sending this board to Mr. Bob and be done with it.

chris.
post #1823 of 2919
If you have any doubts as to whether TO save your set vs. buying new, go to page 45 of this thread and find out what they are REALLY capable of, from screenshots I have personally sent up. Shots by Joe Barnhart, above, of HD images on his Mr Bob calibrated 510 are also VERY indicative of the phenomenal HD images these sets are cable of.

Don't buy new! Get your incredible set fixed - and then cleaned and possible even calibrated - and just keep on enjoying it! No need to be out several grand again, from buying new.


b
post #1824 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by camelpowered View Post

Wow Zodiak! You might as well have taken a picture of my power supply board. My pin 1 of T101 looked exactly like yours does. My issue also smoked something on my deflection board. I have since replaced the deflection board and performed triage on the power supply board. Besides the witness mark on pin 1 of T101, I also found a fractured solder connection of the grounded pin of the heat sink of IC 201. There were no other issues, but just to make sure I re-flowed each pin of each connector and touched up D101 which looked a little questionable. I also reviewed all other solder connections. This was not too bad as I have access to a 16x magnification Metcal soldering station.

By the way, it seems as though your photo also shows over-current witness marks and a fractured connection on pin 18 of T101 (across from pin 1).

Even though this board is as basic as you can get (single-sided, single layer, pass-through mount), if you are not comfortable with soldering many points in close proximity, I would recommend just sending this board to Mr. Bob and be done with it.

chris.

Another well done but temporary job by a well meaning but still uninformed owner.

Just doing the points that are bad now is NOT the answer in this situation! More will go bad soon.

THE ENTIRE BOARD WAS BADLY SOLDERED BY THAT IMPROPERLY SET UP SOLDER FLOW MACHINE.

EVERY point that directly connects anything to anything in there that was part of the original solder flow op, needs to be resoldered. No exceptions! Otherwise as the set continues to age and to warm up and cool down again each day, more intermittent and each time potentially damaging connections will keep breaking free and going non-connected. Picture what would happen if a ground for a voltage regulator taking in 135v and putting out 12 - under optimal conditions - were to let loose. That circuitry expecting 12v would not all of a sudden be getting 135v because the ground is not clamping properly and thus reglulating the voltage properly. You wonder why the deflection board blew???

That is just one simple example. Since we don't know which conn will let loose next, we can't take any chances. The next one could be the one that takes your set down VERY expensively, and possibly even total it.

A shotgun approach is ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL in this case. NOT finding what's bad now and fixing just that. Literally hundreds of connections need redoing, on that board, without ONE solder bridge between 2 points that should not be touching each other, happening as a result.


b
post #1825 of 2919
Well got it all fixed last night. Total hrs 510's been on: about 16hrs, no probs at this point(Fingers Crossed!). I desoldered the PS board and resoldereed it anew. It took me quite a while as I had not done a full resoldering project prior to this, but was extremly careful to to it correct. I did all the joints, and made sure to check for bridging where where it was, and was not supposed to be(took about an 1hr just to recheck my work, over kill probably but o'well). I cleaned the mirror and guns via postings in another forum a couple days ago(have not done deep cleaning yet). It looks phathams better than it did already. I now just got through with the multipoint convergenve after 2hrs of tweeking it. I also finaly got to use my D-sub 15(VGA) male to male cable I bought last week to conect to pc to watch Blu-Ray vids fom my PC. I had to download AnyDVD, PowerStrip and a few other programs to get that working correctly. Well I am off to calibratie it and whatever else I can do personaly, Hope this is problem is all behind me for now. Thanks for the help(unless it goes into shutdown again).
post #1826 of 2919
Great! Send up some pictures when it's ready!

Just so y'all know, it is NOT necessary to DEsolder the board. All it needs is refreshment of the already existing solder, and feeding it the correct amount of fresh solder in the resoldering process.

I usually triple the amount of solder currently on the board, because the original solder flow op left it VERY thin.

When you can hit a joint with the tip of your soldering iron and a crevasse forms between the leg and the pad big enough to drive a truck thru, you KNOW the solder used originally was WAY too thin!

I do this all the time on the boards I resolder, some of the joints are especially impressive on how big a truck you can drive thru that crevasse, so I do them first, just to guage how far along the problem is on THAT particular board.

Then I add whatever amount of solder it's thirsty for, from not being done right the first time...

I am not surprised it took an hour to check it. I check, doublecheck and then recheck it again before I finally send it out, usually to the other side of the country...

I just got an email from a guy with a 643HD in HAWAII, who will be sending me his board as soon as he gets home from work and can confirm that the PS bd is mounted vertically to the bulkhead of his unit.


BTW, Zodiac, what does "phathams better" mean?



Like fathoms, maybe? That would make some sense I guess, if you use your imagination a little...



b

PS - does your 15 pin VGA input look any better than your component input, on the same materials?
post #1827 of 2919
Hey, Mr Bob

I picked up an Elite Pro 200 today (got it for free because of this ZAP-off problem). I've taken off the back, but I'm not really sure how to get the power board out, it's quite big.



There's a shot of what I think is the power board, but I'd like some confirmation before I go disassembling the thing.
post #1828 of 2919
One last time before it goes to recycle center, if you live near Alexandria, Virginia, have a truck, and friends who can help you lift it, you can have my Elite Pro-510 TV. Remember, it is big and heavy! You can have original packing materials if you want...owners manual included.

I'm fairly sure it suffers only the powerboard solder issue (causing screen to intermittently brighten then go back to normal). Mr Bob has discussed this at length in this thread and will gladly repair it if you send him the powerboard. No guarantees of course.

Otherwise this TV is in perfect condition. It has been turned off since the flashing began one month ago. Even though it's 9yrs old, it has less than 700 hours on the CRTs and is in like-new condition. Reason it is in great condition is I've been deployed (in the military) about five of those nine years, during which time it was off. I'd like to keep this TV but I'm going for the Pioneer Kuro 60inch Plasma before they go extinct.

PM me if interested.

Dave
post #1829 of 2919
If it currently turns on normally from dead cold and has a completely normal picture while dead cold and the intermittencies only happen after it has had a chance to warm up, it's a prime candidate for my resoldering op.

If it was shut down while in this condition and will work perfectly next time it's turned on, then it should be kept cold for the duration until fixed before being warmed up again EVEN ONE TIME. When testing it, don't run it for more than 1 minute total and you'll be assured it has not had a chance to warm up.

If it's in that ideal condition now - well, next to ideal anyway - it can be sent to me and I can assure the new owner that it will get back to him in the same working order as sent, but WITHOUT the dangerous intermittent operation that is at present bugging it after warm-up.

Being dangerous because each intermittency sends spikes down the power lines, and if one of those spikes goes major, it will take out a board downline, becoming a lot more expensive than if it gets cured right now, before anything more dangerous to it happens.

So whoever takes this prime machine off Dave's hands, contact me for the resoldering process and we'll get her stabilized again for you, with rock-solid operations restored for you from then on.

With that kind of low hours on it, many happy years are left in it, of sizzling HD images, like the ones on page 45!


b
post #1830 of 2919
Here they are again -


Credit for the supertight image structure of these pix goes to its owner, Chad Gilbertson, of Ellsworth, WI.

This was a limited contribution on my part, I only helped him with the deeper optics cleaning and dialing in the grayscale on sm, which he had nearly already pegged himself, in User. I did the Cantilever Technique for him, after which he saw that 2 of his colors were still out of focus on optical. He was going to correct that ASAP after I left. These pix are with more optical focus error than I allow in my full calibrations.

Awesome caretaking by an owner! I was very impressed -


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Our sleepy hero, about to get a rude awakening...

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