I highly recommend that anyone wanting to be in the know about this problem, to at least read some of this thread!
All the answers to your ?'s (except pricing) are contained in the previous page of this thread, starting with post 1777. For pricing contact me directly please, and NOT by pm. Suffice it to say that what it costs to fix it is a drop in the bucket compared to buying new, to get the kind of quality that's even somewhat similar to what this set is capable of. These sets are classic, they are EMMINENTLY worth fixing, even today, and owners all over the continent are keeping them alive and for good reason, via this thread. These are AWESOME sets.
Go 1 page back on this thread and read that entire page - if that's too rich for your blood, read at least my entries, the ones from Mr Bob. Most of what you need to know is there. For how awesome your set can look after being saved, you WILL have to go farther back. Scroll pages till you see pictures. I believe page 45 was good for those, you'll see how AMAZING these sets can still look, and why this thread about how to save them is still going strong, after more than 4 years here...
Page 58 has a pictorial with among other things before and afters on a set of your vintage. It also talks about the shimming op and how much it can improve your pix.
You have let it go just a little too far without taking action, and have now blown your conv bd. If you had followed the advice that's been repeated over and over on this thread, you woulda shut your set down at the first sign of trouble and it would never have gotten this far.
That said, lots of times this happens out of the blue without any warning, and without any intermittent ops acting as warnings. Which is on Pioneer, not the owner.
Whenever the conv bd LED goes on, chances are its ICs are blown and need to be replaced. That's usually all that goes wrong when the red LED on the conv bd is glowing.
Best way to handle it is to get that done first, then turn on your set, and if that was the problem it will work again. But then you gotta SHUT IT DOWN PROMPTLY - within 40 seconds - do NOT allow it to warm up at all. Keep it stone cold.
The problem with the conv bd is usually the hinky conns in the PS bd having sent it a dangerous voltage spike, once the set has warmed up to cruising temp. You can send the conv bd to me to get the ICs replaced, and once the set is up and running again/ops have returned, then the PS bd should then be sent to me for resoldering. Again from dead cold and without warming up the set. This means WITHOUT the set being run again for more than 40 seconds, after having been off enough to thoroughly cool down. Let it go cold and DON'T allow it to warm up again until the PS bd has been resoldered.
Any set that has normal ops most of the time but with the intermittents currently happening should shut their set down immediately, even if you're presently watching it while you read this. The spike that will take your set down hard and cost you expensive board replacements or repairs could be just minutes - or even seconds - away. SHUT YOUR SET DOWN NOW. Then keep reading.
Here's a reprint from the previous page, the reference to Baltimore is still valid, the second trip is now forming, get on board if you want in. His set's PS bd has not yet taken out the conv bd, but most likely it will if he keeps running it. Note that I do not recommend changeout of the PS or conv bds, neither one will need replacement. The ONLY board that ever needs replacement is the deflection board, if it goes that far.
If your set has now been turned off and is presently cooling down, please continue reading:
Originally Posted by jdbt3027
I'm a Pioneer 710HD owner. I've read this thread, and notice a majority of the people with the power supply issue are seeing flashing and hearing poping sounds. My problem is a dimming of the TV while watching it. The TV gets dark for a few seconds, then returns to normal after a while (sometimes immediately, sometimes after about 20 seconds or so). The input doesn't matter (component and rgb are what I use the most). I don't hear any popping or see any flashing of any kind, so I wanted to know from the forum if this is a problem that has been experienced by someone else, or is this the precursor to the Power Supply issue?
If so, my next question is where do I get the proper hardware for the fix, and how do I get it fixed (along with getting my TV calibrated, as it has never been professionally calibrated since I had it)?
I'm in the Baltimore/Washington area, and prefer to have a service tech come out to service the TV rather than try and remove parts, or move the TV myself. I truly have a fear of damaging this TV, and don't want to take any chances being a DIY novice.
I was just in Baltimore, and have a Mit to finish once the part that was ordered is installed by the owner. That should get it working again, at which point we will be looking at me coming back there to fully calibrate it, including the shimming op for o'scan redux.
If you want to be part of that, contact me. I would be glad to calibrate your set, and to fix it as well. There aren't very many calibrators left who are qualified to bring out the best in CRT RPTV anymore. I not only do that, but also fully restore your PS board, whether sent to me or on location with your unit.
The important thing right now is to STOP USING YOUR SET before expensive damage downline from that PS board occurs. DON'T let it warm up to cruising temp again till restored, not even once. Those cold solder joints on the PS board that are now failing in units all over the continent can take many manifestations, and yours is but one that we've heard of here, of the many reported on this thread.
IF IT'S AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM YOU'RE EXPERIENCING ON YOUR 510/610/710 or 520/620/720 - or the non-Elite versions of the same years - YOU CAN TRUST THAT THE COLD SOLDER CONNECTIONS ON YOUR PS BOARD ARE THE SOURCE OF THAT PROBLEM. Don't take any chances on your multi-thousand dollar unit. Shut it down until your PS board has had the proper attention. Only half the x20 series was affected because they used the same board as the x10 series, but ALL of the x10 series was affected.
If you want to preserve the precision of how your 710 was set up at the factory - highly recommended, the things we do as calibrators build completely on that - DON'T get a new/replacement PS bd for it. That would be starting from scratch, and possibly with a repair tech who has NO idea what real calibration is all about. Voltage and current regulation only have to fall within certain parameters on the PS bd, which supplies ALL the voltages for the rest of the unit, including other power supplies downline from it. Each set is then set up from THAT PS board, the one it was assembled with. No other board will have that same combination of currents and voltages. Yours is the only board that will preserve EVERYTHING the factory did for your set.
For that reason it is best to get THAT board restored completely, rather than replacing it with ANY other board.
Contact me directly if you want to send me the board. It is a piece of cake to get out and put back in, owners all over the country are doing it - not just those who are technically inclined but newbies and totally non-handy types as well.
If you can find a tech willing to just remove the board so you can send it, have someone do that. Should cost you next to nothing. Or if you have a brother or cousin who is handy with a screwdriver, they could do it as well.
I am always glad to coach whoever needs it on the phone, no charge, in how to get it out and put it back in.