Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 72

I'll try swapping all the boards and tray this weekend. I looked it over and it may not be too bad, it seems the boards are on a mounting plate which is only held in with one screw, then they pull out, just lots of cables to disconnect and keep track of. One disconnect that I'm concerned about is removing the the 3 high voltages lines from the FBT to the CRT's. Do these come of easily ? I'll keep set unplugged for over 24 hours, so I hope this is not a safety issue ?

Man that cabinet must really be trashed for you to dive into that project. Have you considered just swapping out the front trim pieces?

Yup, My set, is likely similar to yours, high gloss black finish and well maintained. The second set (with the better pic) dull finish all around, ie top sides and front, also many scratches dents and dings. The front grill appers to have been their cats play toy, the sides at the bottom have large pieces of the paint chipped off. I cant image how it got this bad. The front protective screen has plenty of scratches on it (so its just going to stay off). My wife has already warned me that we will not swap this unit for our good looking unit

I'd try to not undo those HV wires, try to keep them intact. If you must, be sure to mark them thoroughly, so you can get them back EXACTLY in the hole each came out of before.

If you must, be sure to bleed them to ground, preferably thru a 100 ohm resistor, then straight to ground, before allowing them to dangle. And DON'T allow them to touch any circuit board or component at any time. Just like they can shock you, they can also short to components on your ecbs, esp. the more delicate ICs.


b

Ok, so, hypothetical question here. Sprinkled all throughout this excellent and informative thread are warnings from the estimable MrBob to TURN OFF your set as soon as it starts exhibiting these problems, or you risk further damage. So, what if, um, a "friend" of mine who happens to own a Pro-610 set started having the blue flash/turn-off problem a few years ago, but instead of googling the issue, finding this thread, and fixing the PS board, he just lived with the problem this whole time? And what if that theoretical dumb friend of mine now has a set that won't turn on at all? Would it be worth it for that incredibly foolish friend to go ahead and resolder that PS board anyway? Or am I, I mean, is he basically screwed at this point?

FWIW, once in a while it does turn on...in fact his daughter watched a movie on it yesterday, but for the most part his TV sits in the corner of the room, hulking and inert.

Er, to clarify, the green power light does come on when he turns the set on, just no picture appears on the screen.

I dunno, has your "friend" learned his lesson???



If it still turns on from dead cold, turn it off within 40 seconds of turnon and keep it unplugged until fixed correctly. Sending it to me would be one way.

If the green light stays on but no pic is showing up, hit the Menu button and see if anything comes up. If the Menu comes up but not any pic, then chances are the prong carrying the power to the video board has come unsoldered on the PS bd, which would be corrected in my resoldering op. I have had that happen several times now, and my resoldering cured it every time. No promises of course, but looks good, anyway.

If no Menu comes up but it is not shutting off, the same thing could still be at fault. In any case your PS bd absolutely needs the resoldering op, one way or the other. Even if it does not correct the disappearing picture.


b

LOL, yes I have learned my lesson.

So I pulled the board and had my brother hit every solder point on the PSB. Plugged it back into the set and powered on...it came right on, picture right up, but the image was split vertically and displayed multiple times. Like so: (pic removed...no need)

Could this be a result of something we did on the PSB? Or did I hose something up when I connected everything back? I'm kind of afraid to do anything now, in light of my prior transgressions...

Any advice is appreciated!

[edit] Never mind: cable box was set to output 720p and my set needs 1080i. Once I switched to 1080i the screen split went away.

Great! Glad you have finally prevailed, and that you didn't hurt anything in the process.

Now get your optics cleaned and see how bleary your set has been for years! Crystal clear viewing awaits you as soon as your entire light path is squeaky clean again. All 10 affected surfaces.

Make sure you do it SAFELY. Any damage you do to the optics is instantaneous and permanent.


b

Thanks again for your advice, Mr Bob. You are right about the optics; once I got everything hooked up and figured out the 1080i thing I was a little surprised at how sub-par the picture was compared to how it should look. I don't know if the time it spent unplugged reset something back to the factory settings, or if I am just paying more attention to it now, but it needs help! Not sure I am brave enough to open the front up and clean the optics b/c I am terrified of scratching something, but at the very least I need to do a convergence again.

Where did I leave my toothpick...

Yikes! Got into the convergence menu with my trusty toothpick and the vertical lines are jittering all over the place. Horizontal lines are solid but the vertical lines look like sine waves. That can't be good...time to do a little more research...

A very wise man. He knows when to either quit for now or call in reinforcements. Those optics on the Elites - and even on the non-Elite Pioneers - are stellar, and deserve absolute carefulness.

If you are in HD 1080i when you go into the conv sm, of course the vert lines will be squiggly, because the first screen is 480i. The next ones are the aspect ratios, the final one called H is the HD. I believe the Screen button on the remote is what scrolls them, one after another, among the buttons in the upper left corner of the remote. If you are sending in HD, you gotta scroll till you hit the H to have proper sync.

If you don't have a service manual on the Elites, you're doing yourself a disservice if you're trying to do any part of a calibration. They don't have easy scrolling menus like other brands. It's all random access, meaning you gotta know what you want and what button to push ahead of time, to get your desired result.


b

You may want to go to this post, and D/L the x10 series service manual from the link provided in the post.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2045

This just in from someone whose board I resoldered recently. Reprinted by permission -



The board arrived within a few days of you mailing it back. Good thing I double boxed it because the outer box was pretty smashed by UPS, but the board was fine inside. Anyway, I got it reinstalled a few days later, though getting some of the white connectors on was difficult to tell if they were fully seated. On power up everything was fine. Since then I've seen about 4 DVD movies and it appears to be working fine. The picture has been sharp and steady so it looks like it's on its way to a longer, healthy life.

I also did a little research and based on your recommendation and bought a Blu-ray player—the Panansonic DMP-BD60K. It had high reviews, was a affordable (on sale for $159), and has the features I want. I bought a couple of BDs to test it out the picture (over component) is as sharp as the high-def signal I get from my Cable DVR. Further, it plays old standard DVDs with a slightly better picture than over the Sony DVD player I had.

So, all around I'm very pleased. The Pioneer Pro510 appears it is breathing on it's own and back to life. Thank you! I'm now able to play Blu-ray high-def disks over the component inputs (which many people had told me was impossible without HDMI). And, on the Blu-ray player my library of DVDs look better than before even though it's not upconverting them. After I got it all back together I adjusted the convergence for all the inputs, but most of the points needed little adjustment.

You've saved another Pioneer Pro510HD from its mid-life crisis to live on to a healthy and ripe old age!

—A Colorado Customer

Just an update, last week I completed the swap of the internals of the 510's, and it was not as bad as I expected. All the boards were each connected to mounting trays which were only secured with 1 screw. I took a video of the setup before I started to disconnect cables and swaping which was helpful for a couple reconnection uncertainties . The crt tray was obviously the biggest task but still not too bad. Overall it took about 3-4 hours and that includes a nice cleaning and dusting of the boards and interior. Also the convergence had not change that much when I powered everything up. I was surprized at that since one unit was shimmed and the other was not. I pleased at how this turned out and with the upgraded picture and set.

Wow! Great job! This is one for the archives.

One shimmed and the other not??? Then be sure to redo your optical focusing, which will definitely be different between the old and new/shimmed and not shimmed versions.

Of course I recommend the Cantilever Technique for that -



b

So I finally got around to replacing the deflection brd(since this is my spare TV sitting in the garage) w/ a new deflection brd and the same thing happens.
The 5A fuse blew again but not the 6.3A and the Deflection Serv Assly LED was lit. Did not see the LED lit on the Conv Brd. Could it be something else downstream or the pwr supply brd? This is my 2nd pwr supply brd(that I ordered from Pioneer). Any ideas?

Yea, this was actually kinda fun in our warped kind of way. I certainly learned a lot about the sets. The biggest pain was when I was nearly finished and accidently dropped a screw onto one of the boards. I could not find it so ended up removing the boards again until I found it (it fell between the 2 boards on the signal assy tray).

When I moved the crt assembly I also moved the shimms along with the CRT tray so the focus hardly changed. I did a fine tuning and all looks good.

When I made my shimms I used 2x4's and cut them into 2x2 squares. I then marked where the screws were positioned on the crt assy were and where the tray centering detent/punchouts were positioned. I then drilled 3 holes in the blocks so the 2 screws went straight through block to the frame, and the centering detent rested in the block. I then position the block in the tray at it most rear position against the metal punchout so that I knew exactly where the tray was to rest on the frame. This worked well since I was sure that the tray was exactly parallel to it's original position, just 1.5 inches higher. As a result, the convergence and focus required very little adjustment, which was good because it was approaching nap time

Other than the video I didn't take any pictures to post, as the job does take some concentration, but if anyone needs help or plans on doing this just pm me and I'll be glad to offer some advice and guidance.

Sorry, this seems to be beyond the scope of this thread, and I certainly have not seen this before, myself. You might have to bail to getting a local tech out on it.


b

The red convegence on the left side of the screen cannot be adjusted horizontally. The big center is OK, the outside right upper, center and lower are OK, the center top and bottom are OK (all can be moved up,down, left, right) but the left side upper, center and lower red will cannot be adjusted horizontally. I replaced the 2 IC's - used STK392-110 from Sanyo, but this did not fix the issue. What else can I try? Again its only the left side of the screen.
TIA Robiwan

The 110s are very old by now, I would never use them unless absolutely necessary. The 180s are the best upgrade to that series pricewise and qualitywise. I would sub with the new ones.

However, these symptoms don't fall into the IC replacement category, and probably will require looking at either the coil involved or the convergence generator circuit, which generates the waveforms the conv needs to operate.

Looks like you may need a tech in for this one.


b

Last summer I was offering my Pro510 for free to anyone who would take it away because of the failing Power Supply Board. I was fully prepared to spend $4000.00+ to attain a TV of equal capability. That was until I googled upon this forum.

In every respect, except for the powerboard problems, my Pro510 looked absolutely brand new. The black laquer finish made it look and feel at home next to my Steinway Piano.

With the advice of many of you, including the now famous Mr Bob, my power board was repaired, and my Pro510 continues to assume a central position in our Home Theater. That it has now lasted 10 years and still rivals the best Plasmas and LCDs is a tribute to Pioneer and you folks.

Thanks for saving me a bundle of money. Merry Christmas.

Dave

Thanks Mr Bob for the quick reply. What would be the possibility of replacing the convergence board and fixing this problem? Is that worth it or is it time to get a new flat screen?
TIA Robiwan

These boards are availalbe from Pioneer, tho there's no guaranty that the problems you are seeing are not caused elsewhere in the unit by the conv gen circ or a faulty coil, as stated previously. A coil being faulty would be a real long shot, cuz if there's something wrong with a coil, it doesn't usually affect things variably, like just on one side. It usually works or doesn't work, period.

A defective op amp in the gen circ could cause a variable result tho, saw that happen on my old Advent front projector.

I would replace that board and see if that does it. You can always return it if it doesn't do the trick and get your $ back, minus only the shipping and maybe a restocking charge. If it does work, then of course you'll probably need the geometry and convergence redone on your set, from using a virgin conv bd. If you change out your ICs again to the new 180s instead and that does the trick, chances are it will leave your geo/conv paradigm alone for the most part and only require some conv trimming.


As for whether you should consider retiring your set, buying new and thus limiting your viewing capacity to what is presently out there in the marketplace, I think everyone reading this thread knows already how I feel about that. See the post above yours from djones (no relation). That says it all.

For those of you who are new and don't know how I feel about that, please see this thread, started by me over 3 years ago and still going strong. We just clocked our 200th page recently, and it has lots of pretty pictures when you hit the right pages, starting with this one. You can't get blacks like that with anything but CRT or the most expensive plasmas or front pjs out today - the really expensive ones, most of which still don't do as well as CRT -

Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...95922&page=203



b

I have a pro 200 that had the board pulled and fixed. I am putting it back in and have everything connected but one wire and for the life of me I cannot find where it goes. It should be an easy one to find. I am reinstalling the power supply board. The wire that I need to know where it goes is the red wire with a spade connector and grey rubber boot coming off of the FBT. The only other wire that goes into this FBT is the anode cable. I would really appreciate help with this.

If it's a thin red wire coming out of the FBT, it goes to the focus block. There will be one vacant socket, and that's where the spade will go. It supplies the focus block with its intermediately high voltage.


b

That was it, thanks for your help. This was driving me mad.

You got it. Glad I could help -



b

I've got a Pioneer SD-582HD5 that's starting to get a bright flash over the screen. Happens with satalite channels and DVD's. Is this probalem related to these televisions as well?

Yes. It very likely IS the bad solder problem on the power supply board.
As your set being a SD-582HD5, definitely falls under the same service manual that covers the 510/610/532/582 sets. And they ALL use the exact same power supply boards.

Here is a link to get the manual for free, in pdf form.
(note: for all you x20 and x30 series owners, you could also use this same manual for most things)

http://www.schematicsforfree.com/arc...ro610A3051.pdf

GLCII, everything you need to know is in the above posts, I just finished mine and it is working well.