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Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 73

post #2161 of 2919
I sure do thanks you folks for helping me out with this. Especially that service manual. Sure does look helpfull.

Am I to take that the power supply board is the board where the power cord fits onto? And all I have to do is check the solder and maybe resolder some of the loose solder points? Or maybe get a new or refurb'ed part # AWV1809 or AWV1808?

Again Thanks!
post #2162 of 2919
If you want the fix to last. You need to resolder ALL the connections on the board. Do not just resolder a few connections that look marginal, do ALL of them!
Also, the refurbed boards from Pioneer. Usually will fail sometime down the road after you put one in, for the same reasons.
Their method they use to wave/machine soldering of the power supply board, is marginal at best.
post #2163 of 2919
I'm probably going to take a look at it today. I haven't seen how far apart the solder joints are away from each other. I've only soldered a few times and don't want to have solder spread to another joint. But If I do solder,I will solder all as you suggested. If by chance I did buy a new board, as long as I knew for sure what it was, I would go retail and not refurbed.

I bought this tv in 2001 and it's always been a good set. I guess it should be for $5000.00 from Best Buy and $3800.00 online plus another $250.00 delivery from NY. I went with online.
post #2164 of 2919
Actually a well set up solder flow machine usually does an excellent and permanent job of soldering everything on the boards. There are many boards in that unit, yet this is the only board that ever had this problem. I believe the reason the replacement Pioneer boards fail is because they resolder them the way most local techs do - just the presently bad conn's.

The tiny number of exceptions to 100% as to what needs to be resoldered on that board have been stipulated by me many times on this thread. Suffice it to say that no, as Johnla says, you cannot get away with just resoldering a smattering of the bad joints. Doing that will come back to bite you on the butt later. And when it does, the result may be your set getting totalled, since the more innocent conn's may have already been soldered now properly, leaving the much more UNinnocent ones still in play and ready to let themselves loose later.

If you don't want to take any chances and are not a repair or assembly professional who does this type of thing every day, don't even think about doing it yourself. Far too much is riding on it. Those joints are very tiny and very close to each other. It's extremely easy to do a solder bridge and not realize it. Who knows what would happen then, on turn-on? I don't, and don't want to learn the hard way! If you are a beginner at soldering or even journeyman class, leave it to an extreme professional who does it every day.

If you want it done right, send it to me. My way of doing it is the ONLY way that works, and works permanently. I am the one who came up with the only permanent fix for this problem that has been proven for years now, to be 100%.

If you just buy a replacement board - new boards disappeared years ago, the only boards now available from Pioneer are refurbs of core charge returned boards - you will be sacrificing the original board your set was calibrated on at the factory, and hence the board your entire unit was originally set up on. They are a matched set. Keep them that way. Don't buy a refurb that not only will be a different board from the one your unit was set up on, but was also not resoldered properly as a refurb - not resoldered the only way possible, to keep this problem from ever coming back. 100% minus a tiny number of very logical and simple exceptions. 99% net.



b
post #2165 of 2919
I have a sd-583hd5 projection tv. The picture is just too good to justify buying a plasma. Within the last few months, I started to experienced the pop/sutoff problem. So, i pulled the PS board (and took it to the tv repair guy to ressolder the board. I just picked up the board and was inspecting it prior to plugging it up. I am scarred sh!tless because I see some points soldered together as one (i.e. bridged) but i do not remember them being that way prior to dropping off my board. I did talk to the manager, he looked at it and said they were supposed to be that way.

Here are the locations of the bridges. I'd appreciated and feedback:

Specifically,
1. connection E5:
-- the 1st two soldered pins (25v and unlabled pin just below the "E5") are bridged together

2. connection E1:
-- the two grounds pins (#9 & 11-- at opposite end of "E1")are bridged
-- the middle 9v pin is bridged to another pin (Pin # 6 & 7)

Do you think these bridges are ok?

============================================================ ==============

Hooorrraaahhh. I took a chance, re-installed the ps board, turn the tv on: so far, so good. 20 minutes and no shutoff yet...
post #2166 of 2919
Thanks for the advice Mr Bob. PM me on the details of getting the board to you and what it will take to get the job done.

I haven't looked at it yet so I'm not sure what it looks like or how bad it is. Other than what I see the TV doing and it isn't that bad yet but is steady getting worse.

On a side note: Does anyone have a Hi-res picture of this board?


goodguygonebad

If I get in there, I'll post a pic to look at. Closeup.
post #2167 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLCII View Post


On a side note: Does anyone have a Hi-res picture of this board?

Here is some photos of the board, that in the past have been posted in this thread.

http://home.comcast.net/~larryh791/elitepsfix.html

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1819
post #2168 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by goodguygonebad View Post

I have a sd-583hd5 projection tv. The picture is just too good to justify buying a plasma. Within the last few months, I started to experienced the pop/sutoff problem. So, i pulled the PS board (and took it to the tv repair guy to ressolder the board. I just picked up the board and was inspecting it prior to plugging it up. I am scarred sh!tless because I see some points soldered together as one (i.e. bridged) but i do not remember them being that way prior to dropping off my board. I did talk to the manager, he looked at it and said they were supposed to be that way.

Here are the locations of the bridges. I'd appreciated and feedback:

Specifically,
1. connection E5:
-- the 1st two soldered pins (25v and unlabled pin just below the "E5") are bridged together

2. connection E1:
-- the two grounds pins (#9 & 11-- at opposite end of "E1")are bridged
-- the middle 9v pin is bridged to another pin (Pin # 6 & 7)

Do you think these bridges are ok?

============================================================ ==============

Hooorrraaahhh. I took a chance, re-installed the ps board, turn the tv on: so far, so good. 20 minutes and no shutoff yet...

The connectors contain many redundancies in their legs. All are labeled, so you just gotta use your intuition. If 2 legs are both labeled the same thing, they can be joined by a solder bridge.

But the 9v that is up against the 11v must - obviously - not have a bridge between the 2.


b
post #2169 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLCII View Post

Thanks for the advice Mr Bob. PM me on the details of getting the board to you and what it will take to get the job done.

I haven't looked at it yet so I'm not sure what it looks like or how bad it is. Other than what I see the TV doing and it isn't that bad yet but is steady getting worse.

Anyone wanting me to do their board for them needs to contact me personally and directly, outside of this thread. Please call or email me - not pm me please, I'm just a couple of pms away from overflow - and I'll get back to you with info about what to do next.

Quote:


it isn't that bad yet but is steady getting worse.

You're already on borrowed time. Stop using your set immediately, and don't allow it up to cruising temp again - even once - until it gets fixed properly. The next incident you have may be the one that takes your set down, and hard. Many sets have already been totalled because this advice was not heeded. The owners have contacted me directly needing to go to the next level, which is a lot more expensive to fix.



Some are willing to afford that, and others just aren't. Their sets are currently occupying local landfills.

The additional repair fees are certainly doable, as the additional boards needed can still be procured from Pioneer. But completely unnecessary, with the advice I have just given here. Again.

If your set is experiencing intermittent problems, stop using your set! It's that simple. Get it fixed properly before allowing it up to cruising temp again. Even once.


b
post #2170 of 2919
If anyone near or in Dallas/Arlington, Houston, Austin or San Antonio area is interested on having their sets calibrated Mr. Bob will be in Texas the later part of January. If you are interested PM me or Email Mr. Bob.

Looking forward to it.
post #2171 of 2919
Hello,
This is my first posting after reading this thread. Thank you to everyone for posting such valuable information. I have an (almost) nine year old Pioneer SD-582HD5 that is dead. I had never had any flashing, it just went dark one day while I was watching. When plugged in, upon pressing the master power switch I hear the customary click and the front light goes green, but no picture or menu. I had a local Pioneer repairman come over, he went right to the PS board. After a few silent minutes he told me that he had an eighty percent certainty that he could fix it for about $500. I did not like those odds, plus that was above the figure my wife and I had agreed upon, so he closed the set up and left with a house call check in hand. After he left I powered the set to find only the front red light would light up. I found this forum and opened the back up to find the black heat-sinked IC on the PS board dangling, (I beleive it is IC 204.) I pulled the board and re-soldered that IC, put the PS board back in and plugged it back in. Now I was back to the front green light, but still no picture. I then did a complete re-solder of the PS board, with no change. I do not see any LEDs "on" either on the PS board or the convergence board. What are my next moves?
post #2172 of 2919
Dead Pioneer Elite Pro 620.

Hi. I have this rear projection sitting in my garage and I don't know what to do with it. I know I can get it fixed for about $500 but went with a new 151 instead.

I don't want to throw out the 620 in the trash - someone must want it or even the parts for it... any ideas?

Thanks for your help.
post #2173 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by drmroth View Post

Dead Pioneer Elite Pro 620.

Hi. I have this rear projection sitting in my garage and I don't know what to do with it. I know I can get it fixed for about $500 but went with a new 151 instead.

I don't want to throw out the 620 in the trash - someone must want it or even the parts for it... any ideas?

Thanks for your help.

Where are you located?
post #2174 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky22nj View Post

Hello,
This is my first posting after reading this thread. Thank you to everyone for posting such valuable information. I have an (almost) nine year old Pioneer SD-582HD5 that is dead. I had never had any flashing, it just went dark one day while I was watching. When plugged in, upon pressing the master power switch I hear the customary click and the front light goes green, but no picture or menu. I had a local Pioneer repairman come over, he went right to the PS board. After a few silent minutes he told me that he had an eighty percent certainty that he could fix it for about $500. I did not like those odds, plus that was above the figure my wife and I had agreed upon, so he closed the set up and left with a house call check in hand. After he left I powered the set to find only the front red light would light up. I found this forum and opened the back up to find the black heat-sinked IC on the PS board dangling, (I beleive it is IC 204.) I pulled the board and re-soldered that IC, put the PS board back in and plugged it back in. Now I was back to the front green light, but still no picture. I then did a complete re-solder of the PS board, with no change. I do not see any LEDs "on" either on the PS board or the convergence board. What are my next moves?

If you actually totally resoldered that PS board, then I personally am at a loss. I have had boards with exactly that same problem come in several times so far and every time, resoldering the board fixed it. Let us know what you found out, once it's going again.

BTW, did you resolder under the white caulking? Did you resolder each and every leg of the plugin connectors, esp. the white ones?

Leaving an IC dangling is definitely in violation of some version of consumer protection laws, whatever those are for your area. If the tech actually did that, he needs censuring.


b
post #2175 of 2919
Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I have a replacement for IC 204 on order (just in case it was damaged).

I did not solder under the caulking where the wire jumper is held down. I was afraid that I might pull the pads up. I will go back in cut the caulking and solder there.

I solder in small areas, checking my work as I go wearing magnifying head goggles. Than I did a total board check, fixing anything that did not look correct, paying special attention to the connectors. I used my thumb to check for any connector rocking against the board. E3 rocked and I re-soldered it for a third time. I really want this set to work again.

Thanks again for your input.
sparky22nj
post #2176 of 2919
I scrape the caulking off, so I won't damage anything. Cutting it can be done if done right, if not you may score across and sever a run without realizing it. You may find more than one connection hidden by the white caulking.

Even so runs can be damaged if you press too hard, so I am glad you are aware of that type of precaution.

The white connectors press down, you really don't need to resolder them to get them to not rock.

If you block one of the goggles and just use one eye, you won't be so crosseyed later nor eye-fatigued, and your vision will more effortlessly stay 20-20.


b
post #2177 of 2919
I had 6 or 7 joints hid under the white caulk, remove it very carefully. I looked at them with a 30x magnifyer and they didn't look all that bad but upon resoldering them some opened up a hole big enough to lose your soldering tip in. Recheck every thing, mine has ran fine now for the past three weeks. Cleaned the mirrow and lens also, made the picture much sharper.
post #2178 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky22nj View Post

Hello,
This is my first posting after reading this thread. Thank you to everyone for posting such valuable information. I have an (almost) nine year old Pioneer SD-582HD5 that is dead. I had never had any flashing, it just went dark one day while I was watching. When plugged in, upon pressing the master power switch I hear the customary click and the front light goes green, but no picture or menu. I had a local Pioneer repairman come over, he went right to the PS board. After a few silent minutes he told me that he had an eighty percent certainty that he could fix it for about $500. I did not like those odds, plus that was above the figure my wife and I had agreed upon, so he closed the set up and left with a house call check in hand. After he left I powered the set to find only the front red light would light up. I found this forum and opened the back up to find the black heat-sinked IC on the PS board dangling, (I beleive it is IC 204.) I pulled the board and re-soldered that IC, put the PS board back in and plugged it back in. Now I was back to the front green light, but still no picture. I then did a complete re-solder of the PS board, with no change. I do not see any LEDs "on" either on the PS board or the convergence board. What are my next moves?

You didn't mention checking the fuses, just in case you forgot.
post #2179 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by roster1 View Post

I had 6 or 7 joints hid under the white caulk, remove it very carefully. I looked at them with a 30x magnifyer and they didn't look all that bad but upon resoldering them some opened up a hole big enough to lose your soldering tip in. Recheck every thing, mine has ran fine now for the past three weeks. Cleaned the mirrow and lens also, made the picture much sharper.



b
post #2180 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by mt_goat View Post

You didn't mention checking the fuses, just in case you forgot.

If any of the fuses is blown it won't power up. Which it definitely is doing, if the green light is staying on.


b
post #2181 of 2919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

If any of the fuses is blown it won't power up. Which it definitely is doing, if the green light is staying on.


b

Yeah, ok I read it too fast.
post #2182 of 2919
Someone, anyone... give me some advice.

I have a broken elite 620 that I need to get rid of and I don't want to throw it in the trash.

I'm sure people can use the screen or some of the parts or even the casing.

I've placed an ad on craigslist, and I've even called a few tv repair stores. Does anyone have any other suggestions before it goes out into the bulk trash for good?

Thanks for the help.
post #2183 of 2919
Where's it at?
post #2184 of 2919
Calling around to repair shops is probably a good idea. Techs who can easily fix it and get a fine, working set out of it for nothing, will probably haul it away for you.

I do. I did with a 610 that is presently sitting in my garage, awaiting my fixing and reselling it.


b
post #2185 of 2919
Mr. Bob,

I scraped the white silicone up enough to solder the pads underneath, replaced the IC that had been left dangling (just in case), did a visual inspection on the component side & re-soldered everything but the test points.

I put the PS board back in and checked all connector wires (found one loose ground wire on E5). I powered up the set everything is the same, green light but no picture or menu. Help, I'm out of ideas.

Thanks for any suggestions,
sparky22nj
post #2186 of 2919
If your green light is staying on, your set is not going into protection, which is a good thing. Lack of pic/menu probably indicates one of the DC power supplies is not getting to its board downline, somehow someway.

How does a tech make a multi-pronged IC that is bonded to a heat sink with a strongly wrenched in screw "dangle"? Has that dangling IC been bonded to its heat sink again, properly? As I recall from memory it has 4 or 5 legs. Again, how can such a thing be made to "dangle" when it was originally in there very solidly, from the factory?

Feel free to contact me off board and we'll talk more about this. Your set's condition is no longer on the beaten path here. You can talk with me off board or get local service repair help, but I see no easy answers here, at this point.


b
post #2187 of 2919
Bob,

Thanks again for all you do here, very much appreciated.

Regarding IC204, I opened the back prior to the repairman arriving. IC204 (five leads) is the only one with the black heat sink, which does not have a screw-down to the board, just posts that insert through holes in the board.

When I first looked at the PS board, IC204 was screwed tight to it's heat sink (good), but the heat sink was hanging down at an angle. The heat sink was not anchored tightly to the board. The white silicone on the component side was holding it loosely away from the board at an angle. So before anyone touched the board here at my house, IC204 was not up to snuff, mechanically anyway. It did seem to be soldered, which was almost the only thing holding it to the board.

After the repairman left and I found this forum, I opened the back and saw that the IC and heat sink were now hanging at a much worst angle.

Right now the new IC is screwed to the heat sink, soldered to the board and I applied silicone to the back of the board to grab the heat sink posts that come through the board in order to hold it tight.

Anyway this is too much information for most readers. I dug out my old multimeter, only to find it's display dead. So I will be picking up a new multimeter and giving you a call.

Thanks again,
sparky22nj
post #2188 of 2919
Any IC that has 5 legs really doesn't need to be screwed down to the board or anchored to it in any way, as long as it's not too big a heat sink. 5 legs is more than enough to hold that one tightly, when soldered adequately.


b
post #2189 of 2919
Any One would like to put together a sea /tac Tour to get "Mr Bob" up here
to do his magic on our RPTV's ????i have a pio elite 510 & 730hdi would love to get shim & cal from the "master"!! pool plane fare and it will send him up here to do his stuff..Plus a lot of exchanges of knowledge and that will benefit us in years to come.
post #2190 of 2919
I'm ready when you are!



b
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