Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 74

My neighbor is having a problem with their pioneer SD-P5181-K (looks like a 52 inch pioneer but no HD). The red light is on but when you press the on button the unit does not power up, it's as if it's stuck in stand-by mode. They did not notice blue flashing of anything, it just started this problem all at once. Does this line of Pioneer suffer from the same cold solder joint problem that my 510 previously had ? I looked inside the their unit and it is a different power board from the 510. If you guys here think it possible that a resoldering the power board will work I'll do it for them (for the fun of it). Any thoughts ?

I'm new to the party here as my 9+ year old Pioneer SD-532HD5 started exhibiting the flashing syndrome described by many here Friday night plus then it would go bright for a while then drop down. I found this thread and following instructions removed the back panel and the power supply board and found some brownish solder points which I suspect are the culprits. I've included a picture here of the board with some of the burnt posts indicated.

[ATTACH]Power Supply Board Picture[/ATTACH]

Pioneers have had these cold solder joint problems for years, long before the HD line. Chances are you will improve things if you look it over and find some bad ones.

But when it goes off suddenly like that, it's usually one or both of the conv ICs giving up the ghost. If you don't find any cold solder joints, that would be my next avenue of attack -


b

You have obviously not read this whole thread. No big surprise, it's a long one!

Those are the big resistors, and were added later. That's why they still have the rosin on their conn's. Nothing wrong there. If you don't see browning of the top of your board, under those resistors, you know there's been no overheating going on.

But you gotta STOP USING YOUR SET NOW. Otherwise you're playing Russian Roulette with it and are just looking for trouble. Unplug it until fixed correctly. Do not allow it up to normal operating temp again until this sit has been remedied completely.

Send it to me and I'll take care of it permanently. Survey this thread and you'll see that I've been on this like flies... oh, you know! for years. Or if you're a qualified professional do it yourself. But don't farm it out to local repair techs, who will only band-aid it and you'll be right back where you started within a year.

My resoldering jobs on these boards are permanent. Contact me directly - no pms please! - and I'll get you what you need, to save your set. I only have 4 boards in the wings right now here, awaiting my attention. It's been worse, I have at times had 7...


b

I am still Pioneer Pro 610HD Owner. Since last 5 yr, I have installed new power supply board, I am still good. No more Blue flash..

I bought this TV in 2001 July...And had first blue Flash in Jul 2003...But In 2005, I got new Power supply board...I am worry free since last 5 year.

That's good, because I just had an inquiry from an owner named Ken in Massachusettes whose board was replaced by Pio a few years back and has now gone out again. This was after he had tried to resolder his first board himself and had it last just a couple of days, as he is an admitted amateur and did a very sparse job of it. I pointed out that it's a good thing that job of taking care of just the ones that are bad now didn't expose the rest of his set to the more advanced ones, the ones that take your set down. Which happen later. There's a lot to be said on this sit, for "nipping it in the bud", where the first ones to go are the most innocuous and innocent. The ones later, when this sit is not handled promptly, are the more seriously damaging ones to your boards downline.

He inquired as to how long these sets last and whether it was worth it to put money into the repair. I sent him to page 45 of this thread, but he can't open pix at work, will do so at home instead.

He talked about the nightmare of going out and finding something to replace it with, how to dispose of his current set, etc... All of which for him was a nightmare. He'd much rather keep his set.

We also talked about its being a monster compared to the flat screens of today and I asked him if he had speakers beside it, as part of his home entertainment sys. He said yes.

I then pointed out that to me that thickness of his set is a perk. It brings the actual image much closer to your view than a flat screen will. With a flat screen a foot or 2 farther back it reduces the size of the screen dramatically, necessitating spending more $ on a bigger flat panel to make up for the diminshment of size due to added distance, eyes to screen.

And the fidelity of fixed pixel is still not ready for prime time on most of what's out there, compared to what these CRT babies are capable of. Not in overall performance, all things considered. IMHO, CRT is still the best.

He is sending his PS board to me, and is on the list of owners wanting to be in on my next tour to his area. Which is Mansfield Massachusettes, in case anyone else in or around that area is interested as well -


b

Bob,
Please let me know when you are in Chicago Area.
May be if you have a time, I can have you looked at my TV...Since, I have to keep my TV always Black Level 13...from 0.
If I keep Black level 0 then it looks too dark...

What do you say?

Standard condition at your set's age. My calibration covers realigning the energy your CRTs get so your set gets back to normal - perfect (brightness) shadow detail at midpoint, once I'm done with it. No extra charge.

For on location/tour info, contact me directly and I'll get you on the schedule, once one comes up. Or be the organizer, and let's get busy and start one for your area! In any case get me your contact info directly, not by pm please. I'll feed you any leads I currently have, and there are several in the wings right now as we speak.

A couple named Violet and Bruce are sending their board to me as we speak, and live in Chicago. I'll put you in touch with them if you'd like -




b

I would be happy to get your service.
Please let me know. Appreciated. Pankaj.

Please contact me directly, by email or phone. Not by pm please -

b

sure.
Thanks Bob.

I want to report that I had Bob resolder the power supply from my Pioneer SD-532HD5 and I swear the set looks better than when it was delivered 9 years ago. Next I will have Bob over sometime to get rid of that darn overscan it has.

Can't wait!



b

I I have a new problem with my 710. I’ve had the power board redone by Mr. Bob, so that should be good. The problem I was having was the 5 amp fuse would blow every once in a while (one 6.3 fuse blew once). I did notice that it would blow the fuse when the set was warmed up and I would shut it off and turn it back on before it had a chance to cool off. I thought the problem was the ICs. I had two 180s installed (Sanyos) and now as soon as I try to turn the set on the 5 amp will blow.

I thinking since it started doing this after the new ICs were installed that the ICs were bad to start with or the tech did something wrong on the install. I looked at the solder joints and they actually look good.

What do you guys think?

Ken T.

Before you do anything, check for any stray "whiskers" between the pads the IC legs are soldered to. Do a continuity check if you have any question, between any 2 legs and see if they are connecting together when they shouldn't be. Some side by side conns are supposed to be conn'd together and most are not. Both ICs get hooked up identically, so the readings you take should be the same, unless they changed something between them as part of the design.

If you find nothing there, proceed to plan b -

Whenever something you did causes a bad result, start with undoing what has been done so far. Replace those ICs again, both of them, and see what happens. If it then works, you know that one of those new ones had to be bad to start with. Perhaps it somehow slipped thru QC. I've seen it happen. You can then go on to testing the 2 you took out to see which one was bad, or just toss both of them and be done with it. I would.


If it still doesn't work, hmmm...


b

Just curious, is the LED on u'r deflection assly brd lit up when this happened? My set has a similar problem w/ the 5A fuse blowing and the LED on the defln assly brd lighting up....Keep us posted as I would like to know how u get this resolved.

Just curious to know what my fellow Pioneer owners who have bought the HDFury2 think of it. I'm a PS3 owner, and kinda sick of everything being downconverted to 480p. My question is, by using it, will the 720p content upconvert since it's now running through an HDMI cable? What's the biggest plus you've noticed using it?

I guess I'm just looking for that final excuse to purchase one, but the $150 price tag keeps making me question whether its worth it or not. Thoughts anyone?

If you're interested in upconverting your 480i library to 1080i get one, you won't go wrong. Otherwise pass, as HDMI does nothing to improve the 1080i HD signal. You won't do any better than component for normal HD.

RGB might allow your computer to jimmy with your colorations if you have the proper card for it, but for regular HD, like Bluray, component is the cat's meow and your pic won't get any better because of having HDMI involved.

HDMI is just another way to step on your otherwise primo HD signal.

The only advantage of HDMI is if your player puts out a better signal on its HDMI, and you want to get that sig to your display intact. In that case the Fury is essential.

DK the answer to your 720p question, but I suspect that would also wind up as 480p in the end, just like component.


b

No, not unless you can set the PS3 to upconvert it. Neither just the HDFury or HDMI can do that.

Hmmm, guess I really need PS3 owners that are using the HDFury2 to answer this then. I do know the PS3 will upconvert DVD, but I don't know what it does with games. So many are in 720p, and I see the downconvert everytime. Frustrating that Pioneer didn't put that option in the TV, but at the time how could they have known?

I personally don't care that much about upconverting my DVDs, I'm happy with how they look as is (thanks Pioneer Elite DVD player)! I already knew that with Blu-Ray movies it doesn't matter if it's coming through component or HDMI, so this is strictly a game issue that I'm having. Unfortunately, on gaming sights, nobody has a clue about anything other than LCD and Plasma, and it's very limited even about that. I know this isn't techinically a '510 Promblem', but I appreciate you guys humoring me all the same.

You should buy my 65" Panasonic CRT. It was the last CRT triple-gun RPTV to ever do 720p native, while also keeping 1080i native, both separate from each other and independent of each other, with separate structure - geo/conv - memories, one for 720p and the other for 1080i.

All other CRT RPTVs that came after that either upconverted whatever 720p they received to 1080i, or simply would not read 720p at all, which is the case of my latest gen 73" Mit. With all the bells and whistles their latest and greatest ever CRT RPTV had, it didn't upconvert 720P! Any 720p hitting it just leaves it blank. Black screen.

The Panasonic, OTOH, displays 720p perfectly, as 720p.


b

Thank you to all who have posted the steps to fix the board. My 2000 HD-610 just had the terrible "flash" and then no picture. I followed the steps posted after reading the entire thread, and reinstalled the board tonight! The picture looks better than ever! I will monitor for other instances of blue flashes but resoldering seems to have done the trick! A million thanks to all!

Hope you did all the soldering that is necessary to do, which is 99% of it. Otherwise you'll have been under a false sense of security, and will be back where you started again soon.

If you did you have nothing to worry about, and congrats! So glad we could help.



b

I am about to pickup a Pioneer 610hd that seems in good order. Very pretty 1080i from Satelitte, yet has not been maintained in a long time. No complaints from the owner and I watched it for 1/2 an hour and no flashing popping, coloration effects or power downs. I picked it up for $100.

I have a Wii. I also have a HTPC that is currently equipped with an Athlon XP 2800 and an Nvidia 6200. The Nvidia has VGA and DVI-D. It is also eqiped with a Hauppage WinTV FM GO. Pretty crappy NTSC tuner with svideo input that can take the Wii signal and display it fullscreen and deinterlace the signal.

I am really wanting to get all my Digital Movie Library to 1080i on the set right away and have been need help deciding what I am going to have to do to the HTPC to make it capable. Also, I want to get the Wii as good as can be.

It seems that with the existing video card I will have to get to component or to RGB/hv as those are the two best connections that do 1080i on the Pioneer. It Also seems that 480i, 480p and 1080i are available over both component and RGB/HV? As a side note, I've read that some RPTV ownersa with PCs were able to hack something like a 540p signal to their 1080i only TV; did I missunderstand what they had done? or did they actually achive a 540p display on the RPTV?

It also seems that I can tweak the Nvidia to output sync signals that'll get the output capable of being transported to the RGB/HV 15pin D-sub connector or the component Y,Pb,Pr/3-RCA connectors . I am unsure how to deal with the RGB/HV transport.

If there is a considerable advantage to RGB/HV (maybe the NVidia is more programmable toward it, or the picture quality is better, or the Pioneer deals with it better) vs. the component-ins?

It seems that the HDFURY is the best way to get to RGB/HV via DVI-D output, connecting the HDFURY to the TV with a short, high quality 15 pin straight-thru cable. Is that correct?

Yet if the Component is of equal quality and capability, is there some simpler method to get from DVI-D OR DIRECTLY from VGA-out to the Pioneer?

The last portion of this is really also in regard to assessing the HDFury Line.

I will probably never get a Blue-Ray player other than in the PC. Nor do I see getting any other HDMI sources. I will be downloading from major services and playing content from the PC. Yet there may be a draw to get a better picture from the PC only supported over HDMI, such as DeepColor. Another factor may be the image centering issue/over-scan. Another would be Gamma adjustment. Another may be the 0-255 vs 16-243 corrections. Is that Valid Thinking?

So I wonder how I should connect this TV now, for the short term, with this HTPC that is obviously underpowered for HD content, and wheteher in the long run I will want to lean toward a newer Nvidia chipset that has HDMI ouput?


I know this is a big set of questions for a posting, but it is difficult walking back into fixed frequency display devices after so many years. I have no idea what our current desktop cards are capable of in terms of driving them. But I do see the value in this TV, it is very pretty. And it seems like a workhorse. Like an Old HP laserjet.

Could you folks help me out trying to identify how to assemble all this stuff in the short term and maybe give me a tech refresh so I can figure out how to design around this thing (the Pioneer) into the future?

Oh yeah, and correct me where I am wrong, and deluge me if I seem full of crap or misguided?

It would be so much appreciated.

I don't have any answers to offer, but I do have to say this...you picked up a 610 for $100?? You lucky bastard!

Now here's Bob and many others to tell you to get that thing cleaned and calibrated...

@shutyertrap
As I understand them, the hdfury's don't upscale at all. If you want the Pioneer to do 1080i, you have to output a 1080i signal somewhere, it does NO upscaling and neither does an HDfury. Can't the PS3 output 1080?

Did I read in the manual that the Pioneer downscales though? Is that what happens to the 720p signal?

@anybody?
I guess I am also curios, is the centering fix that the HDFury claims essentially a problem fixable via overscan adjustment on the set?

I mean does everybody experience this? And is it a maintenance issue?

@Rooot

No, I know the Pioneer can't upscale. The PS3, since it's also a Blu-Ray player, has the ability to upscale DVDs to 1080, so long as you are connected with an HDMI cable. That got me wondering if that was only for DVD, or if it'd also upscale the games that are in 720p to 1080. My guess is 'no', as there are no settings in the PS3 menu specifically related to that. That's why I was curious about other PS3 users and their Pioneer 510/610/710 experiences. As for what the Pioneer does with a 720p signal, not sure. My guess is that it downscales to 480p, but I honestly don't know.

The only reason I was thinking of buying the HDFury2, was cause it does that HDMI to component conversion, thus allowing full use of the PS3's abilities. If it doesn't affect the games though, I won't bother dropping the $150. Rather save that for the day I can afford Mr Bob and his ability to fix the overscan issue (that btw REALLY rears it's ugly head when playing games who's onscreen HUDs love to sit at the top corners of the picture. Can't even play GTA 4 because it cuts off most of your instructional text.)

Nope, the 510/610/710 does nothing with a 720p signal, nada, as in it will not even display anything that is 720p. It can not accept a 720p signal, so you get no picture at all.

Um, what about all the broadcast TV that is in 720p? Or like I said before, said games? Yes, I have told my satellite box and PS3 what resolutions my TV can display, so what happens with those signals?

For broadcast TV, you need a tuner that converts the 720p to 1080i, and you set the tuner to always output at 1080i, which all off air HD tuners, cable boxes, and satellite receivers will do. Even the optional off air HD tuner that Pioneer sold for the x10 series sets, that is all it did for 720p. Sorry to be blunt here, but simply put, NONE of the inputs on the TV can do anything with a 720p input, you get nothing on the screen if you try that. No matter which input you use, the external inputs on the TV can only accept and display 480i, 480p and 1080i signals. Without something else to do a conversion to the signal first, it can not accept or even show a picture from a 720p or 1080p input signal through any of it's external inputs! Same goes for 720p games, trying to directly send any x10 series Pioneer RPTV any type of 720p signals, it flat out won't work. The TV itself can not process any type of 720p external input signal to do anything at all, and if you try to do so, the end result is you will get no picture.