This emaill was just received by me. I am reprinting it here, since they wanted to post but could not do so yet, being new members of this forum. As such I am sure they would have no objection to my printing it here. My answer contains critical information for anyone viewing this thread, and needs to be restated over and over, since this thread has gotton so long, making this info hard to find. The beginning stages of this thread are totally useless now, as that info has gotten hopelessly out of date and is actually damaging to your set, if you use that information. What's fresh here is the best, most updated into you can get, on this issue.
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 7:33 PM, Thea Eck wrote:
I've been reading alot of the posts on the forum. I joined just a short time ago, but I'm waiting for activation before I can post my question.
So... impatients has gotten the best of me and I think you are GREAT. I think my questions are easy.
Is the 510 basically the sameas the 710?
We have had a popping noise for the last year and the TV shuts down. If we unplug it and plug it back in we've been good for weeks at a time. Now it's happening all the time... So I started looking for help. Now it can take more time to be unplugged before it starts working again.
From what I've already read, I think I understand it's the IC's on the conversion board? So we took the back of the TV off and my hubby looked for the conversion board. He is thinking from other descriptions, it's the board with the really big heat sink on the left side?
What IC's should he look for?
Thanks so much!
My answer -
NO! But those ICs could get damaged very soon if you don't stop using your set! Unplug it and leave it unplugged until fixed properly.
Thanks for the kudos, and I recommend you have me fix it or at the very least someone who makes sure to fix it the way I do, then you'll have little or no worries from then on. Since the ICs have been subjected to mistreatment from the PS board's inherent flaw, they may give way in the future a bit earlier on than normal and need to be replaced. (They may have someday needed to be replaced on GP anyway, but it's slightly more likely to happen after having been subjected to the stresses involved with the PS board's inherent flaw.) Or your ICs may never need to be replaced, even after these stresses. That is actually what usually happens, that they are not affected by the PS board at all and just keep working indefinitely.
But at this point if your set still works properly upon turn-on, it's not the ICs that are at fault, as they don't go intermittent. Once they go, they go.
You must stop using your set, NOW! These problems only happen once it warms up, each time.
And yes the general electronics - everything discussed here on this thread - are the same between the 510, 610 and the 710. And the non-Elite versions as well, plus a substantial part of the 520, 620 and 720 series the following year.
The inherent flaw is that the PS board - the power supply board, the one at the end of the power cord coming from the 120v wall outlet - was badly soldered at the factory, and they have been letting go after aging awhile for years now. Yours will just keep getting worse until something downline from the PS board gets damaged by the lightning bolts that occasionally get sent down into the rest of the circuits from the bad connections in the solder joints of the PS board, which have started to rear their ugly heads on your unit and will only continue to get worse over time and use.
That gets expensive. Still doable, but for many families it totals out the set. The videophiles do whatever it takes to keep it going, the Joe Sixpacks of the world simply wheel it out to the curb and buy new, even tho they paid anywhere from $5000-12000 for their set. That's what was paid retail in the 510/610/710 Elite series back when it was bought new.
NOT what I would recommend! Those sets were - and still are - some of the finest HD displays ever made, and deserve to be fixed and kept alive for years to come. Properly maintained and fully dialed in on their performance, the pictures they produce effortlessly rival anything out there today, and exceed the performance of lots of what's out there today. They are like a Lamborghini - they deserve the finest repairs and tuneups available, and when fully maintained and taken care of, spin circles around the competition.
At this point your only costs would be $275 plus shipping both ways. Chump change for a set this valuable and with such fine looking HD, when kept fully maximized to its true potential. (Insert - this thread is rife with HD screenshots showing how great the pictures are that these sets can produce, just go looking for them if you want to see)
If it is still working properly upon turnon, try it one more time from dead cold. If it works properly as usual, keep it on for no more than 40 seconds, then shut if off again. DO NOT allow it to warm up again until fixed, even once. You have been warned. Intermittent problems are like needed dental work. They never get any better on their own, only worse. Your PS board needs to be resoldered properly, with 99% of the solder joints on the board getting the full resoldering treatment, the exceptions being very specific and very limited. Any less and you're just asking for more advanced trouble down the line. You can do it yourself if you are an exprienced professional who does soldering for a living, or you can ride herd on a local tech to make sure he doesn't do what local techs usually do - resolder only the ones that are bad now. You do that and you are inviting the death of your set later, as the ones that are more damaging to the rest of the set later are not usually the first to go. So you MUST use the shotgun approach on this problem. Many local techs find this tedious because there are hundreds of joints that need to be resoldered, and because of so many super small connections that make it easy to accidentally do solder bridges, which of course are direct shorts. I would definitely not use one who did not want to keep on top of these considerations by making sure to do all that's required. Or you can have me do it, for nominal and very affordable costs.
If you want to do that option contact me directly, no pms please. Let me know that it's working properly from dead cold and I'll send you all the info you need to get that board to me, so I can save your set too.
Or again, have it done by yourself or locally, but whatever you do, stop using your set now! Unplug it until fixed properly - even the passive power supplies that go live whenever the unit is plugged in and the power switch is fully on and awaiting a turnon command, are affected by the bad soldering job done at the factory years ago.
Luckily the PS board is the only one in the set that does this. There are many other boards in there, which remain fully operational and will never have any problems, now or in the future. They are not the issue. The PS board is the only one involved here, at this point. Keep it that way!
Send me your phone number and we can continue this live -