I need to convince him it is worth another day or two of downtime for the shim mod/etc...
Maybe I'll let him enjoy it a while first.
Keep in mind, all CRT RPTVs use a convergence circuit that has a running temp that takes roughly 45 minutes to reach, and stabilize at. In the first 45 minutes, ALL CRT RPTVs will undergo changes in where the convergence lands, among the 3 colors. As such, we calibrators NEVER do the highly critical high-precision point convergence alignment until AFTER the first 45 minutes of a set's warm-up. There's plenty to do until then - optics cleaning, focusing, overscan reduction, geometry, roughing in the convergence, etc. - before we get to that point, so waiting for the first 45 minutes on that particular op is no big deal.
There will be much more drift when the points are fighting the coarse settings, so these things should always be optimized accordingly if possible. Unfortunately, on a Pioneer you can't just zero out the points and go from there like you can on a Mit, which is difficult on a Pioneer just because of their hexadecimal counting system, and completely ineffective anyway once zero'd, I've tried it. And you can't just go to 2-3% overscan either. Either scenario forces you out of its linear operating range for geometry and convergence, and as such makes accomplishing anything by doing such things impossible.
You can, however, reduce the HD overscan substantially and recenter the pic effectively, and reduce your DVD overscan to 4-4.5%.
But owners need to know this as well, about operting temp. You can get your set perfect in the middle with the crosshairs at any time, but the edges will remain rough and not highly precise for quite awhile as your set warms up. The convergence ICs run ungodly hot in there, and have to level off at their long term - per viewing session, at least - running operating temp before you can trust them.
Could be that your conv ICs have formed cold solder joints at their legs. The conv bd is the vertically mounted one on the left side of the set as you're looking into it from the back, with the lower back plate removed. (NOT the upper, slanted rear section with the mirror on it. NEVER remove that! You'll break something!) It is a double-board assembly, and the conv ICs are in the middle with their legs pointing thru the bottom of the lowest board.
If the convergence SNAPS out, then in, on occasion, the conv ICs need to at the very least be resoldered. Or they could be exhibiting internal bad conn's, and need to be replaced.
It they've shorted out fuses on the power supply board, they are defective and definitely need replacement, and a red LED will be lit up on the conv bd, along with another red LED on the PS board.
This was just posted over at the Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV! thread -
My response -
Not sure if I would be getting myself into hot water by quoting prices here, so will try to tread lightly -
The deflection board runs around $400 + shipping + 100 fully refundable core charge, we don't even try to fix them, we just replace them if they go bad. You can get it from Pioneer or from me. The PS board can be purchased new for a bit under that, but I don't recommend replacing the PS board AT ALL, as it was the board used to set up your entire set at the factory, and all subsequent high precision alignments for your set were based on the voltages and currents sent out by that particular PS board. That board and your set are a matched pair. It has been quoted as costing an extra $200 to recalibrate the high precision areas of your set if you replace that board with ANY other PS board, new or used, other than the one it was built and set up at the factory with. And that's not from me, that was from one of the posts here on the Pioneer Elite 510 Problems thread...
The resoldering op can be done by those qualified to do it, but I sincerely discourage its being attempted by anybody not highly experienced already and totally qualified to do high intensity/super-small size soldering work. WAY too much is riding on it! One false move and you could smoke your set. On my end I test each board for you on my own Pioneer 610, before it goes back to you from me.
The resoldering op I do retains the original characteristics of that particular board and keeps it matched to your set. You do the shipping both ways. There's a 2 week turnaround time and sometimes I can get it out again a lot quicker than that. I don't feel comfortable quoting prices here, so please contact me directly and I'll let you know. Trust that it will substantially lower than buying a "new" (rebuilt! - new ones left the building a long time ago...) PS board from Pioneer. And those "new" Pioneer boards don't last too long either, from what I've read, whereas my resoldered boards just keep going year after year after year from then on once back in their sets, just like all the rest of the boards in those sets.
Send me a request for info and I'll get that out to you posthaste, including how to ship it, send it, wrap it, insure it etc.