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Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem - Page 94

post #2791 of 2918
I own a Pioneer Elite Pro530-HDI and a Pro510-HD. My beloved Pro510-HD worked great until a week ago. Then the chip in the red convergence board failed. Since I don't know how to replace the failed chip myself and I can't afford to have Mr. Bob fix it, as I'm not working, I may have to let my 510 go. I wonder if anyone is interested in resurrecting/repairing my 510 for their personal use. I would hate to see this beautiful television go to waste.
post #2792 of 2918
I can't believe you'd be willing to let such a fine piece of gear go, just because of a repair it needs that DIYers constantly do on their own, typically for under $50 when done by the owner himself.



b
post #2793 of 2918
I'm so excited to see that people are still using these sets! Every time I consider upgrading, I run across this thread and see Mr. Bob's old post about why CRTs are still awesome and then just push back on a set change.

Mr. Bob, getting enough money to fly you out to where I am and having my set perfected is high on my financial to-do list!
post #2794 of 2918
On an unrelated note, though has anyone tried using one of these on our line of televisions?

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Compone...=14TSF1CO4EFQW
post #2795 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nshah23 View Post

On an unrelated note, though has anyone tried using one of these on our line of televisions?

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Compone...=14TSF1CO4EFQW

I bought it but it didn't work for me. I was using it with my MythTV box (a Linux computer, basically) so there may have been some setup issues but I was not sufficiently motivated to try to overcome it. It was basically all dark with horrible colors when I plugged it in.

I may pop for the "name brand" (HD Fury) and just be done with it.
post #2796 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nshah23 View Post

I'm so excited to see that people are still using these sets! Every time I consider upgrading, I run across this thread and see Mr. Bob's old post about why CRTs are still awesome and then just push back on a set change.

Mr. Bob, getting enough money to fly you out to where I am and having my set perfected is high on my financial to-do list!

I am ready when you are!

b
post #2797 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by joebarnhart View Post

I bought it but it didn't work for me. I was using it with my MythTV box (a Linux computer, basically) so there may have been some setup issues but I was not sufficiently motivated to try to overcome it. It was basically all dark with horrible colors when I plugged it in.

I may pop for the "name brand" (HD Fury) and just be done with it.


Thanks for your reply! That's my main worry too, having it not work correctly. It's tempting with it being significantly cheaper than the Fury, but if it doesn't work, it's not really an option...

The other thing is that I plan to move across the country in a couple of years, and I'm 99% sure I won't be able to bring the TV along. As awesome as the TV is, and as awesome as it continues to be (especially with Mr. Bob's services), it's a HEAVY box and I can't get over the fact that I would be throwing a lot of money at old technology.

Did you have any issues returning the ViewHD when you realized it didn't work? Any shipping or restocking charges?
post #2798 of 2918
I have a 510-HD. It shuts itself off and turn itself back on. If i turn the set off, it stays off. However, i can be watching a show and it will turn off then 2 seconds later, turn itself back on. It seems to do this more often when it is warm out. I do NOT have the blue flash problem, I have also soldered the Power Supply Board. I am lost and was hoping that Mr.Bob or anyone else would have an idea of what to do next. I have tried to put a fan behind it without the shroud to see if it was heat related but it doesn't seem to help. Sometimes the set will run for a week without this issue, other times it will restart itself 2,3,4 times then work for 20 minutes then start the process all over again. Any Ideas, Do I need to start my own thread? Thank you in advance,
JR
post #2799 of 2918
Hi JR!

Welcome to the forum. It has been a while since I have posted, but let me get you started. I hate to do this to you, but you will find it extremely informative to read through this entire thread. Your question has probably already been answered, and it is more than likely a soldering issue. I will, however, leave that to Mr. Bob and the experts. I have one of these marvelous machines, and after 'the fix' it has performed quite well for us. Good luck with your Elite!smile.gif
post #2800 of 2918
Thank you Pam. I have been reading since 3:30pm, smile.gif for whatever reason, the set is acting up more than usual and my wife is doing the harrumphs thing every time it restarts.mad.gif I am a bit disappointed that I missed Mr.Bobs MN tour, as I live in MN as well and would have capitalized on that opportunity. It seems as if majority of the issues in this thread as well as others have to do with the blue or green flash, or the set turning off and to turn them back on, unplugging and replugging in the set. My issue I think is a bit different but then again I may have misread something somewhere.
post #2801 of 2918
Thanks pam.

Cold solder joint problems can take many forms. Blue flash is 1 of the most prevalent But is not always there.

I have always stated and quite publicly, That this is not the job for a beginner. Way too much is riding on it. You must work with soldering all the time as if it were your job. 1 false move and who knows what would happen?

Your symptoms indicate that you still have soldering problems On your power supply board. my suggestion is that you have it done the right way. and this is not usually done by local technicians who will solder what is bad now but leave the rest to cause problems later. I future proof every power supply board I resolder, fully test each 1, and give a lifetime warranty on the results. anything short of that just won't get the job done on a permanent basis.

By the way did I mention you're playing russian roulette with your set right now, By operating it as if it were fixed while it is not?

I'll save you some time reading this thread: power it up for no longer than 40 seconds from dead cold, until fixed properly. otherwise you are risking significant damage to your set.

B
Edited by Mr Bob - 7/6/12 at 5:32pm
post #2802 of 2918
Hello Mr.Bob,

I solder on a daily basis (computer tech) and am confident in my work, however I will triple check my work and if I still can't get it, you can expect it in the mail. Do you plan on coming back to MN anytime soon?
post #2803 of 2918
Hi, I have a pioneer pro 710hd that we bought knew and it started acting up 3years ago .we were remoding our living room so we bought a pioneer elite plasma. We were going to send it to mr. Bob and use it in the basement but it's been sitting there since . We didn't want to toss it out but now we need to find something to do with it .
post #2804 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Subkrazy View Post

Hello Mr.Bob,
I solder on a daily basis (computer tech) and am confident in my work, however I will triple check my work and if I still can't get it, you can expect it in the mail. Do you plan on coming back to MN anytime soon?

There are currently no invitations extended to me to appear in MN other than yours, accompanied by plane tickets. If you want to defray travel expenses, get some co-owners together and let's make it a tour. Can be for anything I do - resoldering op, CRT RPTV calibration, optics cleaning of all types of projection set including but not limited to CRT and DLP, convergence repairs, power up repairs on certain units, calibration of the new flat panels and all fixed pixel units including projection types. And other things, among them installation and setup of entire home theater systems, fine tuning of your surround sound, dialing in of your subwoofer, troubleshooting whatever may be wrong with your system, programming of your macros on your Harmony remote...

I will be ready to travel again soon, probably about the time I'll be allowed to drive again, after my open heart surgery that was completed on June 25. Can't drive till 6 weeks after that, which leaves about 4 weeks to go. More than enough time to get a tour together on your end if you'd like me to visit your location, wherever you are.

If you notice that some of my posts have the capitalizing kinda all over the map, that's because I am doing more and more voice recognition writing on these post answers on my new Android Bionic smart phone, and that VR program inserts caps whenever a new string of words begins. Since I am not fluent in VR yet, I have had to do my VR in short strands/bursts. Hopefully as I become more adept I will be able to blurt out complete sentences soon without having to double-think them. VR has completely different dynamics from the way I am writing right now, by simply typing at a keyboard on a PC. It's going to take some getting used to, but using VR to do the writing is incredibly time-saving.


I am home and doing fine, still on heavy duty pain killers tho, as my chest took a heavy beating in there, with a triple bypass and a valve replacement. But on the mend at a pace I would not have thought possible! Still working on getting a good description together for you guys on what I had to have done, not quite ready yet for that. Just know it was not high cholestrol or anything I did to my body to mistreat it. My cardiologists believe it was from the radiation therapy many years ago for Hodgkins Disease, which cured me but evidently caused some pretty serious collateral damage for later, only rearing its ugly head now.

I am still 5 pages behind on this thread, so if you had any pressing issues in those pages, please repeat them here and I'll do my best to answer them. I don't know if I'll actually have time to even catch up on those 5 pages. That 11 days in the hospital took a heavy toll on my now-available time!

eek.gif

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 7/16/12 at 4:37am
post #2805 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALYSHA View Post

Hi, I have a pioneer pro 710hd that we bought knew and it started acting up 3years ago .we were remoding our living room so we bought a pioneer elite plasma. We were going to send it to mr. Bob and use it in the basement but it's been sitting there since . We didn't want to toss it out but now we need to find something to do with it .

Send the PS board. I am ready for work again after my operation, and could really use the work. Your 710 can be made to look every bit as good as your plasma, possibly even better on certain levels.

b
post #2806 of 2918
Hi, thanks I would like to send it but we have no idea how to re
remove it . My husband doesn't have the time to figure it out. What is the cost if we could ? Thanks
post #2807 of 2918
Send me your contact info and we can continue this live. It's best I not discuss $ on the AVS threads. Suffice it to say that many many PS boards have been sent to me over the years, virtually all of which have saved their owners' units, and the highly affordable cost has been welcomed by all who bought their sets new. Those sets are still merrily cranking away today. The only people who have had any problems with my pricing have been those who got their sets free or for virtually nothing, where they don't want to spend more on repairing it than they did on buying it. I really don't have any patience with such attitudes.

It's a set that was cream of the crop when originally sold, and still is. Far more than I charge would be still totally in line, for fixing it rather than offing it.

Once you contact me I'll get you instructions on how to get that board out, which is actually incredibly simple. Got it all typed out and ready to go. Regular people do it all the time, then send it to me and put it back in, with no hitches at all.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 7/16/12 at 12:28pm
post #2808 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

There are currently no invitations extended to me to appear in MN other than yours, accompanied by plane tickets. If you want to defray travel expenses, get some co-owners together and let's make it a tour. Can be for anything I do - resoldering op, CRT RPTV calibration, optics cleaning of all types of projection set including but not limited to CRT and DLP, convergence repairs, power up repairs on certain units, calibration of the new flat panels and all fixed pixel units including projection types. And other things, among them installation and setup of entire home theater systems, fine tuning of your surround sound, dialing in of your subwoofer, troubleshooting whatever may be wrong with your system, programming of your macros on your Harmony remote...
I will be ready to travel again soon, probably about the time I'll be allowed to drive again, after my open heart surgery that was completed on June 25. Can't drive till 6 weeks after that, which leaves about 4 weeks to go. More than enough time to get a tour together on your end if you'd like me to visit your location, wherever you are.
If you notice that some of my posts have the capitalizing kinda all over the map, that's because I am doing more and more voice recognition writing on these post answers on my new Android Bionic smart phone, and that VR program inserts caps whenever a new string of words begins. Since I am not fluent in VR yet, I have had to do my VR in short strands/bursts. Hopefully as I become more adept I will be able to blurt out complete sentences soon without having to double-think them. VR has completely different dynamics from the way I am writing right now, by simply typing at a keyboard on a PC. It's going to take some getting used to, but using VR to do the writing is incredibly time-saving.
I am home and doing fine, still on heavy duty pain killers tho, as my chest took a heavy beating in there, with a triple bypass and a valve replacement. But on the mend at a pace I would not have thought possible! Still working on getting a good description together for you guys on what I had to have done, not quite ready yet for that. Just know it was not high cholestrol or anything I did to my body to mistreat it. My cardiologists believe it was from the radiation therapy many years ago for Hodgkins Disease, which cured me but evidently caused some pretty serious collateral damage for later, only rearing its ugly head now.
I am still 5 pages behind on this thread, so if you had any pressing issues in those pages, please repeat them here and I'll do my best to answer them. I don't know if I'll actually have time to even catch up on those 5 pages. That 11 days in the hospital took a heavy toll on my now-available time!
eek.gif
b


Mr Bob,

From a longtime forum subscriber who has been with you from the very beginning keeping our beloved black lacquer behemoth Pioneer Elites alive, BEST WISHES for a speedy recovery.
post #2809 of 2918
Thanks! I'll be back...

wink.gif

B
post #2810 of 2918
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALYSHA View Post

Hi, thanks I would like to send it but we have no idea how to re
remove it . My husband doesn't have the time to figure it out. What is the cost if we could ? Thanks

I have not heard from you. Will be glad to help, but you have to contact me directly.

B
post #2811 of 2918
Hi All,

I just created an account today to try to see if I can figure out how to fix a problem I am have with my newly acquired PRO-510HD. A guy from work was going to through out this beauty. Picture looks good with standard cable television and awesome using AV input port for DVD player. I looked through and searched for a similar problem as mine but was able to find a thread.

Problem is the HD component connection creats multiple images. The picture below is an image of the brake drum off my 30' travel trailer. There should only be one brake drum, but there are nearly four images showing up. This is not a big deal since I currently don't have any device other than an Xbox 360 connected to the TV. I mainly use my Xbox for playing DVDs or steam video. The yellow AV input jack produces an outstanding image, but it would be nice to figure out how to repair the HD component problem.

Note I used my cell phone to take the picture and it is not of the best quality:



Thanks for any suggestions,

Paul
post #2812 of 2918
I don't think there's anything wrong with your display. Multiple images are usually caused by too high a scanrate hitting your set. Our sets max out at 1080i. If somehow your set is getting a 1080p signal - or maybe even a 720p signal - this multiplicity could happen.

Most of the new bluray players default to 1080p once plugged in, and in the absence of the 2 way communication provided by HDMI, have no way of knowing the set needs to be sent 1080i max. To get them the 1080i they need, you often have to go into the special player menu via composite or S video and do the required changes using that lowered scanrate - where the pic will at least be visible and therefore directable - before you'll be able to see 1080i HD correctly.

b
post #2813 of 2918
Thanks Bob,

It was the wrong HD setting. The Xbox was defaulting to 1080p. All I had to do was carefully navigate to the setting with the Xbox and change it to 1080i. The convergence is off and needs major adjustment now.

Thanks again that was an easy fix....
post #2814 of 2918
Convergence is my specialty.

cool.gif

B
post #2815 of 2918
Will a QAM Tuner work with the PRO-510HD? Bob helped me with the problem I was having with a HD source sending a signal 720p or 1080p signal that the TV could not handle. Needed to set the HD source to send 1080i signal to correct the problem. Are there QAM Tuners that allow QAM cable signals of 720p to be output as 1080i?

Any suggestions for QAM tuners for use with the PRO-510HD? I would like to watch football this season in HD on my newly acquired projection TV.

Thanks,

Paul
post #2816 of 2918
I think QAM tuners are strictly cable tuners. Do you have one, and do you have cable? I don't think QAM will work with anything but cable, but correct me if that's wrong intel.

Cable puts out excellent 1080i on component, and the newer ones have HDMI, tho your set has no HDMI input and would have to be equipped with extra equipment for that. Just use component, nothing better for our sets unless you really go expensive and use the RGB inputs with a scaler.

Has your set been future proofed against the dread intermittencies caused by cold solder connections on your PS board, which is the way they all came out that year? I specialize in that and a lifetime warranty on that correction comes with the work I do.

Have your optics been cleaned recently? If not that's something I can direct you how to do the right way over the phone. Don't be a cowboy in there and figure why not just do it yourself. Those optics are very vulnerable and fragile, made of plastic and easily scratched, which instantly becomes permanent damage. Contact me if you want to be sure and get it done safely and thoroughly.

There are a host of other things I can do for your set to bring it back to where it always should have been but never was out of the box. Contact me and I'll let you know about all that.

You have a wonderful set that is only halfway thru its lifespan and has many good years ahead of it. It was a wise procurement, and my hope is that now that you have scored - perhaps mightily - you will want to bring your new set up to a level of performance that is not ever delivered out of the box.

wink.gif

b
post #2817 of 2918
Yes, I have cable and want to convert the clear QAM signal provided by the cable company into a signal that my PRO-510HD will accept. Some of the QAM channels are broadcast in 720p, and I am concerned about not being able to view the 720p channels unless the QAM tuner converts the signal to 1080i or 480p. I use my 32" LCD television to currently watch local broadcast QAM channels in HD. My wife is between jobs so switching to Comcast's HD package is just not something I am able to afford at the moment. Comcast charges $65/month for basic cable which seems like a scam to me, and I would not pay for basic cable except my wife has to have the Lifetime channel.

Bob, I do want to clean my optics and will eventually give you a call before I try to get into the lenses (likely a winter project). Plus I want to make sure I have the appropiate cleaning equipment. I did take the power supply board out and fluxed and re-solder to a number of the cable connection solder joints. I will eventually resolder the hole board, but for some reason I was very shaky so I decided it is going to be another winter project. I enjoy soldering boards. I designed and soldered a LED turn signal relay board for my step-father's golf cart (works great).

Suggestion/recommendations for a clear QAM tuners to convert the cable companies QAM channels to 1080i are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul
post #2818 of 2918
The PS board should never be partially resoldered. The earlier cold solder joints to go are the more innocous ones, The later ones to go are much more dangerous And can take your set down hard. Your set should be unplugged and unused until fixed properly. Otherwise you are playing Russian Roulette with it. It should never again be allowed to warm up to normal operating temperature until Fixed properly. Keep it cold and unwarmed up till then.

I have seen this kind of advanced damage happen to these sets over and over and over again, and believe me I know what I'm talking about. You are lucky this has not happened to your set yet. Just don't push your luck - it will.

Call your cable company about your 720p/1080i situation. I have satellite so the rules are different, everything gets upconverted to 1080i if that's the scanrate I designate it to put out.

Cable will know the answers, and please share them here.

B
Edited by Mr Bob - 8/5/12 at 11:26pm
post #2819 of 2918
I'm trying to help out my father with his Pioneer PRO-710HD. It was bought new back in 2000 and thanks to this forum I successfully identified and re-soldered the PS board when it was acting up about 7 years ago. Since then I have moved out of state and the PS board was replaced about 2 years ago by a service tech after exhibiting the same symptoms as before.

In late May, I believe the house had a power surge after a power outage because the Monster Power (HTS3500) circuit breaker had to be reset. The DTV box in another room also had to be replaced which has led me to believe it was a surge.

Since then, the display acts as if the PS board is faulty again. We had the local ‘Pioneer Certified’ company come out and replace the power board and nothing changed. They also tried replacing the transistor on the deflection board, again, with no change. After pressing the power button, you can hear the Pioneer try to turn on, the status light briefly turns green, you hear the set turn off, and the status light turns back to red.

The recommended action was to buy a new flat panel or open up the checkbook to bring the display to their shop and hope they could identify the problem. At worst they would charge for transport and T&M for troubleshooting and conclude the set is toast. Two other shops have agreed this could turn into a huge money pit and right now a new LED display is in the works unless a solution can be found.

The Pioneer is installed in a custom built-in entertainment center and converting the space to accept a new flat panel could be somewhat extensive and frankly a PITA (since I would be the one doing it). I have also browsed through threads saying the picture of these sets, when calibrated, is still hard to beat in comparison to the new panel displays. I would like to see this display back up in action if it isn’t too costly or time consuming.

Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be? I have a flight booked for Aug 23rd to help dad fix his Pioneer or buy the new LED and install it into the space. Or if anyone knows someone willing to troubleshoot and repair it on site (Alpharetta, GA), I would much rather be looking forward to drinking a beer in front of the working Pioneer when I return home.

Thanks for the help and advise,

Ed
post #2820 of 2918
Chances are what's needed now has nothing to do with your PS board, tho that said, I would never trust a Pioneer rebuilt board to last very long. Oh that's right, you've already found that out...

But I will reiterate it here anyway: The Pioneer rebuilt boards are not to be trusted. I have had many sent to me for permanent repair after they have been purchased from Pioneer and installed in those owners' sets, only to last a while then give out again. After having resoldered and lifetime guaranteed many of those boards by now, I can tell you that the Pioneer techs do it the same way most local techs do it, which does not include the future-proofing mine ALWAYS include. And NOBODY I know of provides the lifetime warranty on that work that I provide with each and every resoldering job I do on these boards. My resoldering job on your original PS board keeps you in your original board, which keeps everything the factory set up on your set originally still in play, esp. the high precision settings downline. Mine don't go out on you again, ever. You send me your PS board, you never again have to worry about this phenomenon making you consider buying new - and possibly as you said cause no end to the disruption to your current system and being an incredible PITA - just to provide an answer to that problem.

If you want corroboration on this, go back a few pages in this thread to where I took pictures of boards rebuilt by Pioneer and subsequently sent to me when they went out again and resoldered by me in spots they never hit, showing entire sections of the board never attended to during the rebuild by Pioneer. Which is why they went out again later. Doesn't happen with boards resoldered by me.


Your status is not all that different from that of many of those who have kept up on this thread and been helped in the end with permanent results, and they are still enjoying their fantastic Pioneer Elite CRT sets to this day with no further problems.

My suggestion is to sign up for a troubleshooting session with me on the phone and we'll wrestle this puppy to the ground together. It is not free, but also not expensive either, in the grand scheme of things. When you have your set as the focal point of your entire viewing room and that viewing room is ideal already and not in need of any changes, it's time to fix your set. Luckily these 510/610/710 series Elite sets are some of the most repair-friendly sets ever made. You've come to the right place, in landing here at this thread. If you want to see what your set is really capable of with the proper care and feeding, survey the screenshots at post #11125 of this thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/695922/dont-dump-your-crt-rptv/11100

More shots from your model of set can be found at page 45 of this very thread you're reading right now.


You have a fine set there that is only halfway through its service life. With the proper attention you won't want to even consider buying a new LCD display. I have proven this with many - many - displays around the country, of your set's actual model number.

Send me your contact info and we'll continue this live -

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 8/8/12 at 4:04pm
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