MASTER BURN-IN THREAD --> All questions and information must go here - Page 13

No burn-in worries for a DLP-based set.

Burn-in is an (avoidable) issue on any phosphor-based tecnnology - such as CRT and/or Plasma.

DLP/LCD/LCoS - no burn in worries.

A Potential Problem with LCD: Long Term Image Degradation

Texas Instruments recently released the results of a lab test conducted last year which highlighted a failure mode in LCD technology that does not exist with DLP. Given enough time, it appears that LCD panels, primarily those in the blue channel, will degrade, causing shifts in color balance and a reduction of overall contrast. The test did not include a large enough array of test units to draw any conclusions about anticipated rates of degradation under normal operating conditions.

However it is possible that those who invest in an LCD projector may find that eventually the LCD panel and polarizer in the blue channel may need replacement. This is not much of a problem if the unit is under warranty. But if it isn't, the replacement of an LCD panel will represent an unpleasant incremental investment in your projector that you were not anticipating. (See more details on TI's test and our thoughts on it.)

A TV repair tech said that watching 4:3 material in normal aspect ratio (leaving black bars) will burn-in to the DLP optics. I was unaware that burn-in affected DLPs? Is this true? He said over time you will notice the box. After owning a Samsung HL-T5688 and leaving it 4:3 for a year I didn't notice a box when I used 16:9 material...

This TV tech specializes in DLP TVs. He just got done working on a blown out power supply on a Samsung LED DLP set before coming to work on my Samsung HL-T5676S DLP set.

I lowered my brightness and contrast to just a little over 50% is this good to prevent burn in. I have a hitachi 51f59. Contrast 53
Btightness 58

Anything 50 or less for contrast is best - the lower, the better.

Contrast is the real phosphor "torch", brightness not so much.

I own the same TV, and use it's day/night timer to full effect. Slightly higher C/B levels for day (watched less).

For my F59, the contrast is actually down to around 35/brightness 60 for Day, Contrast 28/56 brightness for night.

These levels were set while using AVIA, DVE & THX Optimizer test screens.

And always remember to vary the type of programming viewed, unless you display everything 16x9 (stretched 4:3, for example)

Hi:

I just had a Best buy tech out to the house to fix my Toshiba 52" rear projection set. He told me my TV that I have been using for 3 years had never been set up correctly and has some very minor burn in.

He set up my set correctly and suggested I purchase a disc that will project a white image on my screen. He said if I leave that screen up for a day or two it will even out or fade the burn in. He could not recall the name of the disc.

Does anyone know if this will work and has anyone used such a disc?
Thanks

Kevin

i have read every thing i could for weeks on hdtv, i was going to get a rear projection set because of burn in (and size to $). i play video games and watch news with banners all day. every thing i read says no burn in for rear projection. i have gone on the owners threads for sony and samsung, i saw just about every problem but burn in. even with rear projection having more problems, they are covered by the extended warranty. burn in is not covered , i cant see spending thousands and getting burn in..... is it true?? do rear proj. get burn in??? how common is it ??


**edit** not crt rear proj. but the newer micro displays like dlp and others

Since no one is replying in this forum anymore, I will answer your question.

The DLP sets are not known for burn-in issues. However, I have been told that they *could* be susceptible to burn-in if you leave a 4:3 image up for long periods of time... with physical evidence to prove it. I do not know how long it took to burn-in, but I imagine it took 24/7 for a year to do it. No one is going to do that in reality though. You will have nothing to worry about.

I have an early RPTV Sony XBR CRT TV (65"). I recently noticed a faint blue hue to the right half of the screen. I tried the flash focus and while it is calibrating it doesn't seem to show this but when it completes this the blue hue is back. Is this burn in and if not does anyone have thoughts as to what is causing this. Is it worth having someone come to fix this or should I just look at replacing it soon for a newer TV with HDMI inputs?

Thanks,
Brian

I've posted this also in the LCD RP Sony Grand Wega A10 series thread and seems like know one can help me so I was hoping anyone here would.

I bought my Sony KDF-E50A10 LCD RP in Dec.'05 and just checked the lamp hours to be 7400hrs. It's still the original lamp and I haven't changed it yet.

I use my display for PC also and noticed about a week ago a discoloration in the center of the screen. A yellowish/light brown color almost looking like a burnt hue. I refer to it the blob.

If anyone has any ideas what I should do please post any advice. I may just buy a new lamp or just buy a new display.

-Thanks

Burn in hasn't been a problem with RPTV's for the past 5-7 years. Why is this thread still a sticky??

This thread is over FOUR years old!

Simply to tick you off. We've all done it on purpose and I'm delighted to see it worked!

...

Because you are in error. Doubly so, in fact.

Burn-in is always a problem for CRT-based RPTVs. Nothing magical, despite your shouting about it, has happened recently to change that -- except for the reduction (if not elimination) of the production of CRT-based RPTVs.

As for your "5-7 years," I simply offer that my correctly calibrated three-year old Hitachi has (mild) burn-in on the sides from watching too much unstretched 4:3 material -- despite the use of grey side-bars -- and once I noticed it, I was very glad this thread was here.

Is it becoming less useful as the technology involved becomes less prevalent? Perhaps. But it is not because the information here is itself outdated or irrelevant.

Whether or not this is reason enough to unstick the thread is a matter for other heads than mine to decide.

....and the error regarding the lack of burn-in with DLP RPTV's is?

Yea, so.
I would like to believe any current owner of a RPTV would already know this by now. It surely doesn't deserve 'sticky' status.

Does anyone out there have any info or experience with replacement crts for prtvs? It seem to me that the tubes could be changed out to eliminate the dre4aded burn-in problem???

Ok i have a LCD rear-projection. A sony wega 60'.
I played a game called worldofwarcraft through a PC using a DVI cable. Last week I noticed a burn-in. Which is wierd becasue I didnt think a LCD could do this.
I began to think of what caused it I have had it for 6 years and nver seen this happen.
I then remembered that I changed the resolution ingame to soething like 1920/1080. Well my TV is just 1080i. Could this be the reason??
I plan on using that nokio test utliity to run for a few hours...but wil this even fix it??
Strange thought you guys should know.
Does anyone have information on this type of fix?

I have black bar burn-in on my panasonic 53TW53g RPTV. My question is: Where is the burn in actually at, in the tubes or ive heard the guns?

Is it in all the tubes or guns or just one of the 3?

Just thought I would add this to the thread. I have a sony kp57ws510 we got in 2004. I hated the stretched picture so for the firwt year we had it, we watched in 4:3 with grey bars. When I got the HD box a year later I noticed the burn in of the side bars - especially on bright one color images - such as the sky. So I reset the picture to wide zoom and learned to live with it, and now 3 years later it is almost gone.

I've seen DLP "burn in" happen. It's very slight with normal viewing, but you can see it when the DMD chip is pulled. Samsung is the only set I've seen it on.

Yep I've seen the blue LCD go bad on this set also.

Replacing the CRT's will resolve the burn in, but that doesn't mean the new CRT's are immune to it.

Looks like your blue LCD panel is starting to fail.

That is an excellent idea, one could just make a blank black 4:3 DVD video and pause it, use gray bars and crank the contrast all the way up.

I was thinking it might even be better to make a DVD at 16:9 with three videos, all black images, with blue side bars on one, one with red side bars and one with green bars and alternate between the three colors for same periods of time until the image is smoothed out.

When my new Power supply board gets here I will give both ways a shot and see.

This is for 4:3 burn in on a widescreen where the 4:3 burned in image is darker than the sidebars.

Mr. Bob explained to me that;


Obviously the way to fix it without replacing the CRT's would be to even out the ageing on the sidebars.

So I came up with this idea as a possible solution to ageing the side bars;

Download here:
http://rapidshare.com/files/247375786/Burn_in_Fix.rar

Or here:
http://www.MegaShare.com/1117593

It is a 46 minute “looping” DVD that has a full light blue screen that lasts 60 seconds so you can monitor the progress, along with 15 minutes of red sidebars, 15 minutes of blue sidebars, 15 minutes of green sidebars, all with a black center.

To use just burn it to DVD and play it or launch from an HTPC.

I have not tested it yet on my Pioneer, as I need to fix its shut down problem first but thought I would post it to get some feedback on whether this will work or not.

Think it will work?

I would like to know if this^ worked. I too have a Pioneer RPTV with some burn in.

Okay, this thread is now 7 years old. I wrote the first response to the initial post way back in 2004. I purchased a 47" Panasonic rear projection CRT in the summer of 2005. The Panasonic employed some anti-burn in technologies, such as a slightly shifting the image (not noticeable). I have watched a lot of 4:3 and 2.35:1 programming over these past 6.5 years. I used gray bars on the sides for 4:3, I did not view 4:3 in "Stretch" modes. I have watched some channels with "tickers" such as CNN and ESPN. I did not use it for gaming. I self-calibrated with Video Essentials.

I estimate about 11,000 hours of use.

In the spirit of closure, here are my experiences.

I see absolutely no burn-in. My Video Essentials settings are ever so slightly different than when I first set it up in 2005. My Brightness and Contrast are 0-64 scales. When I first set it up I set Brightness at 28 and Contrast at 47. Now I set Brightness at 29 and Contrast at 48.

I was very concerned about burn-in when I purchased it and am quite pleased to report that it turned out to be a total non-issue.