The Official Kd-34xbr960 Thread - Page 249

Hi all. I'm trying to locate the service manual for my 960. (MAN I love this TV!). I really want to do some deep digging, I want to mess with everything in the service menu. My real goal is to see if there is any way to turn the 960 into a true Multi-Sync style monitor that won't introduce lag for gaming.

Please PM me if you know where I can get it.

Nate

There is a LONG thread on here that goes over any and all aspects of the service menu. Its called "sony service codes" Definitely read over that before you adjust anything in the service menu. It's a perfectly safe(and fun) thing to do if you educate yourself a bit.

The only way to use this TV with absolutely zero lag is to set the HDPT setting to zero in the service menu. This bypasses ALL digital post-processing and sends the signal directly to the CRT guns. I have done this with mine, and it really is lag free.

The catch is that you must send a 1080i signal into the TV-if it is any other resolution, thr digital processing kicks in and it will lag, no way around that. I do this with my xbox 360 using component cables. The picture is really nice as well.

Other than that, he OSD menu will smear and flicker at the HDPT "0" setting, but still works fine. I would recommend using component cables if you do this, not hdmi.


Good luck, it's an awesome TV for gaming!

There's no way to do this. As Salty mentioned, you can bypass quite a bit of processing with a 1080i input with the right service menu changes.

The set only scans its tube at 1080i, all other accepted inputs are converted in the DRC and/or MID processors.

this tv is 576p right ? and accepts 1080i through which connections ?

No, it can only display 1080i. Anything you input will be scaled to that.

wow

But if you've ever actually seen the picture produced by this set no matter whether the input is 720p or 1080i, you'd be astonished.

My prior set was a Sampo 34WHD5 (bought in 2001), which I bought based on reviews and which I thought was absolutely astonishing to look at. It DID accept "native 720P" as well as "native 1080i" (although it only had component video input and not HDMI). I thought I would be missing the native 720p capability when I replaced the Sampo in 2004, with the 34XBR960 I currently still have.

Not the case. The XBR960 has an even more remarkable and realistic and almost 3D-like look about its picture than the Sampo did. It looks like a photograph, no matter whether 720p or 1080i.

Absence of native 720p isn't really a problem.

Like they said, you'd never miss it :-)

after these specs....i would prefer the CRt over any Lcd/Led !

i see Plasma (a really expensive one ) more equal to this Crt

Thanks !

I agree - something un-natural about the color and "tapestry" appearance on a LCD/LED, not to mention it's sweet spot for viewing. The one thing that LCD technology has going for it is the illusion of a sharper picture. The reason I mention "illusion" is that while the picture itself is sharper thanks to 100% perfect geometry the detail isn't there along with the depth and richness of the softer CRT. They still give a very nice and pleasing picture (my second set is a LCD) but it is not on the same level of CRT.

I also found LCD presents a problem with the playback of home made 480i DVD-Rs. I record a lot from HBO-HD, TCM-HD, etc via my DVR. When played back via up-conversion I am quite satisfied with the look and detail compared to the original HD source (an 8 out of 10) however these same recordings look awful on LCD with over saturated color causing the overall picture to be way too harsh (no matter what user settings I make) accompanied with choppy movement. I have to keep the player's output at 480p in order for them to play back fine. No such problem with commercial DVDs.

From what I've seen with plasma, the picture is more natural and with deeper detail thanks to better blacks. But there is still that lack of three-dimensional type depth that one gets with at least the 960. It might also be that large screen sets still have their limitations - 1080i compressed on a 34 inch screen is going to have more detail than 1080p stretched out 50 inches or more.

So if I had to replace my 960 it would definitely be with a plasma. Just hope it would do a better job playing back my extensive DVD-R collection (much cheaper than buying them) than LCD does.

Does anyone know if it's possible to run Twin View (PIP) now that the analog to digital conversion is complete? As you probably know, the right side image while watching Twin View is analog-only. I assume Twin View would work again if an analog to digital converter box is used for the UHF/VHF cable input on the TV, but I don't want to purchase one unless I know that's the case. Can someone please confirm this assumption? I've searched everywhere and I can't seem to find a simple, straight answer.

Twin view can be used by splitting your cable wire thus allowing the non-scrambled stations to come in on the right side (which will at least be the local stations in your area). It can also still be used with older VCRs and even DVD players using one of the non-digital outputs.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the quick reply, Joseph. I do have my cable line split, but I'm not receiving any channels whatsoever. I don't know if it has anything to do with my provider, but I'm on Verizon Fios in the Boston market. I definitely had this working before the digital conversion too. I have lines going to both the Cable and UHF/VHF inputs on the back of the TV, but neither is producing an image on the right side of Twin View. I also have a split running to my PC. That works without a problem, but my PC has a digital tuner. How would the analog-only side of Twin View be capable of processing a digital cable TV signal without a converter box? It's my understanding that the right side is simply an "analog TV". I know the TV includes a digital tuner, but isn't that available for the digital (left) side only?

Hi Micca,

Try using the cable rather than the UHF/VHF input which is for over the air transmissions and might not congruent with cable. I know this works for my cablevision system in the Bronx, New York (BTW - don't worry, I'm not a Yankee fan - I root for the Mets ).

Or perhaps all the stations on your FIOS system are indeed scrambled which would explain why you're not getting them on the right.

Know how frustrating it is for even though our system was all digital before the turnover, there were still more stations we could watch on the right twin view.

Joe

oh man i love my xbr960 as well but i don't know if i would want to dig in and mess around with the service menu options on the set.i mean if it aint broke don't fix it!i would not want to risk this little jewel(well not little)for the sake of video games or any external device.not trying to be critical or anything as i am a tinkerer as well.i wouldn't want a bypass operation if there was nothing wrong with my heart and neither would my xbr. i am sure you are competent enough to do this but since these are classic televisions i figured someone should be the voice of caution for xbrdom.good luck in this project if you proceed.

Not to fear going into the service menu options if proper precautions are taken. My technical expertise goes as far as changing a light bulb but I was able to refine the settings and it did make a big difference from those done by technicians. Just follow a few simple steps.

First, write down the setting as done in the factory. This is essential so you can always return to what you originally had in case your'e not satisfied with the changes.

Then have the set tuned to video seven for HDMI for use of a HD source. Use of 1080i test patterns would be preferable - if you don't have a bluray start up disc, at least the standard pattern can be DVR'd from one of the HBO stations when off the air. Otherwise, use a good broadcast and keep the picture frozen for consistency.

Refer to the various spreadsheets compiled by owners in the sony service code link. Usually, the owners list both the suggested setting by Sony along with what they've found best for themselves. You can go by what Sony suggests, try what the owner found preferable or go somewhere down the middle. Write down every changed setting as it's done.

Although these adjustments work in uniform with each other, you don't have to work on those you don't understand. You will note that most users are in agreement with the changes for the color palettes as opposed to what Sony suggests. If nothing more, change those and leave the rest alone.

NOTE: Do not attempt at geometry unless you have a swatch pattern. Use of the standard test pattern or simple broadcast is not effective for this.

Good luck and don't be surprised if you gain more confidence after working through the menu a few times. Just be sure your original settings are written down clearly.

Hope this helps.

Joe

If you approach the service menu armed with the info contained in the massive service codes thread, you have nothing to fear as far as harming the TV. For me, changing the overscan alone was worth the time and risk. It really isn't complicated and most settings are not global, and apply only to a certain video preset.

That being said, it is a great TV even if you never open the service menu.

My factory overscan settings were so way off that I couldn't understand how anyone called a professional could ever leave it in such condition. Not only did it cause information to be lost but it also distored the picture not only by stretching it more than it had to but also in the way it affected the overall geometry. So being able to adjust the overscan with a swatch pattern was of tremendous help with not only cropping the picture properly but by shrinking it the picture become much more sharper. Of course, the geometry was also off to begin with but once overscan was set, the rest became easy.

I agree 100%. A large percentage of my picture was missing before I modified the overscan settings in the service menu. It really is kind of crazy that they would ship these TVs out this way. That's the only setting I touched in the service menu and it was a simple task. EVERYONE should do this because you really are missing a lot of the image! It was highly noticeable while playing my Xbox360. Some of the onscreen displays were truncated or entirely gone. I'd also see problems while watching sporting events. The info bars at the top or bottom of the screen would be cut off or too close to the edge. Another area I remember as problematic was the small, translucent image of the stations icon (if and when displayed). If any of you out there see these problems with your display, definitely read up on accessing overscan in the service menu and make the necessary adjustments.

And I bet you noticed a much shaper image as well.

Did you then have any problems with geometry? I found that unless all four sides of the picture are decreased in the same proportion the squares within the swatch pattern would be uneven. Since my set had different amounts cut off on various sides, (no matter how much I simply centered the picture) I had to go further with adjusting the geometry as well (the distortion was suddenly noticeable on DVDs I was familiar with).

the pro picture setting on my 960 seems very dim to me, could that be due to its age? i'm wondering if it would be worth getting a professional calibration.

Pro is simply one of the user settings options that eliminates any of the factory-preset "bias" adjustments.

This is like "flat" in audio, leaving you to then tweak anything you want to your liking. You're not fighting to compensate to offset any pre-adjustments (e.g. high brightness and contrast) which "vivid" etc. impute. Essentially everything is in "neutral" at "zero" default settings, and then you can move things "+" or "-" to your liking.

Inevitably, if you've been using one of the other presets and you now go to "Pro", it will look dull and dim... if you're watching TV in the same broad daylight glass windows room you've been watching with one of the brighter presets (which are specifically set to LOOK BRIGHTER, especially in broad daylight). Pro is just the "neutral" starting point, ready for you to come up with your optimal viewing settings (most likely, in a dark room at night).

Yes, I had (and still have) geometry issues. I didn't want to start messing with that stuff too much, though. I got the image to a point where it wasn't too noticeable, even though a very small portion of the picture is missing on the top/bottom and sides. The biggest overall geometry problem I see is when the picture is scrolling horizontally. You can see a couple of vertical "bumps" as the camera moves side-to-side. This isn't anywhere on the top/bottom or sides of the TV, but directly throughout the entire image on the screen. I've been dealing with it all these years and I've kind of gotten used to it, although it'd obviously be better if I could have it fixed! I've always thought about getting this thing professionally calibrated, but never pulled the trigger.

Micca,

That could be resolved by getting a DVD essentials or equivalent that will contain a swatch pattern (there are internal patterns within the service menu but I found the geometry ones to be very unreliable - made my picture worse, not better). There are sections in the sony service code forum that deal specifically with how to adjust the geometry step by step (look for the one with the most steps included). You can then find the codes for fine tuning the left and right corners. It's really not difficult at all and am sure you will get rid of those bumps.

If you want send me a private message and I will send those specific instructions to you.

Joe

I am moving and will have no place to store the TV any longer.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/ele/2538845839.html

If you are within 100 miles of Sacramento, I would much rather work something out with someone who will take care of it.

This will be a great by for someone in the Sacramento area!

But not great for one's back and hernia.....

I hope I'm not breaking any rules here by asking this...

I have been storing my XBR960 for the last 4 years (ever since I bought an Elite Kuro in 2007), and I think it's finally time to let someone else enjoy it. What would be a good price for this set considering it's only been used for a year and a half?

These are the typical prices I have seen:

$400+ - A recently professionally calibrated 960.
$300- The typical asking price on Craigslist etc
$200-$250- The actual price you will most likely get on Craigslist if you are patient.
$100-Quick sale price when you are moving or just want to get rid of it.

The size and weight of these things really puts a damper on their value. People just don't want to deal with all of trouble of moving them. To get a premium price for it, you have to get lucky and find someone local who is actively searching for one already.

Despite blotches of lost anti-glare coating coating forming on the screen over the years (and fortunately has no effect on the picture except when bright light shines directly on the screen which is rarely the case) I'm still amazed at the life-like picture the 960 provides. No other set or technology provides such a natural and life-like picture with so much detail.