Ok, so I have finished installing the replacement ($16 eBay working pull) HDMI/Audio In "P Board" into my XBR960. Imagine disassembling a TV to do a simple board swap...then think of the most annoying worst case scenario that could hinder that board swap...and you have this situation. The main difficulty is that one of the screws holding the "P Board" to the back input panel plastic requires a whole load of crazy maneuvering to get to. I hope this helps someone, as I could not find any truly useful information on the net. The service manual disassembly instructions were only marginally helpful. I did not know what needed to be removed (or not) until I did it.*KD-34XBR960 HDMI/Audio In "P Board" Step by Step Replacement Procedure*
Phillips size 1 screwdriver (that medium standard size used everywhere, not small)
11mm hexagonal socket wrench bit (for RF tuner 75ohm coaxial nuts)
replacement "P Board" w/ single HDMI port [Sony part number 1-862-252-11, also known as... A-1068-754-A]
parts bin w/ multiple compartments (for all the screws removed)
hours of time and superhuman patience
a copy of the service manual, mostly for "Section 1-Disassembly" on page 11, and "Section 6- Exploded Views" on page 141
0. Unplug the TV completely and wait 24 hours to let components discharge. Safety first. A TV is not worth injury or death by electrocution, not even the 960.
1. The XBR960 needs to be on a safe, level surface...with plenty of working space in the rear to place light sources and move from one side to the other. Have a partner to make sure the front of the TV is stable while you remove rear cover screws. Remember that the TV's center of gravity is to the front (i.e., front heavy).
2. Remove the rear cover coarse pitch screws (x 15) w/ Phillips screwdriver. Five are around the input panel. Arrows on the gray back cover plastic point to the relevant screws.
3. Have your partner hold the front of the TV, while you pull on the rear cover at the sides to gently but firmly remove it. Try not to hit any internal parts (e.g., the picture tube neck) with the cover while removing it. Pull the power cord though the cover and set the cover aside.
4. (You are likely presented with a dusty mess, so get your allergy meds...) Use a flashlight and search for thick horizontal plastic tabs
on the dark gray plastic tray that holds the main circuit board. These are next to the tube cradle points towards the front. Lift the vertical protrusions on these tabs to "unhook" the tray on each side, and pull slowly towards the rear (a few inches). Very slowly. Check wires for slack/tightness as you are pulling, especially the thick red high voltage wires coming from the flyback transformer, any wires attached to the degauss coil on the back of the tube, and the speaker wires. Make sure there are no wires getting caught on anything. As you pull, you are pulling the front inputs back into the case. Now you should have some room to work.
5. Now focus on the rear input panel. Use your 11mm hexagonal socket to remove the nuts from the 75ohm coaxial RF tuner jacks (VHF/UHF and Cable). Use your Phillips driver to remove the one short fine pitch screw at the HDMI input port. (Don't bother with the other screws on the external part of the input panel - the panel is attached internally and won't be removed)
6. Grip the small metal "antenna switch" box and wiggle/pull the coaxial jacks out of the plastic panel. This box has five things attached to it. Carefully remove the flat-slotted ground wire, the L-shaped RF connector on the side, and unscrew the thumb-tightened 75ohm RF connector. Leave the other two twisty-tied cables alone. You can now set this little switch box out of the way by laying it over the slanted "MZ Board."
7. You have now exposed the top edge of the dreaded "P Board" that has the HDMI and Audio In jacks. It is in an RF shielded metal box, right next to an annoying auxiliary heatsink for the "Q Box Assembly" (that large thing on the side). Gently remove the long white connector from the "P Board" box. Remove the coarse screw holding the top of the "P Board" box to the rear input panel plastic. Note the weird wire holder fastened under the screw. It just routes the ground wire that goes to the antenna switch away from other things.
8. Here is the really annoying part (what were they thinking???)...There is one more coarse screw at the bottom of the "P Board" box holding it to the rear input panel. This screw is very difficult to get to. If you think you can make it easier by removing the large "Q Box Assembly," think again. That thing will not be removed. (In addition to the screws you can see holding the Q Box to black plastic risers, it has an even more difficult screw to get to underneath the auxiliary heatsink, requiring an L-shaped/right angle Phillips screwdriver. I tried such a driver, and even then it was a stupid idea. Don't bother. It probably has even more things holding it in.)
You need to wedge the hand-grip end of your Philips screwdriver underneath the thick bundle of wires attached to the "Q Box Assembly," and maneuver the tip towards the rear input panel underneath the "P Board" box. Use your flashlight and look through the gap underneath the Q Box near the AC power cord. You may have to wiggle the AC power cord out of its rear input panel slot in order to see. Use your free hand to gently rock the "P Board" and note which screw is being moved. It would also be a good idea to have a look in there using the hand mirror.
Now, hold the flashlight in your left hand and the screwdriver in your right. Get that Phillips tip to the screw and let it bite. Unscrew that sucker (lefty loosey!)...don't let it drop down onto the mainboard somewhere. Keep it in your sight.
9. Remove the "P Board" box from the TV. It has to be shimmied out past that auxiliary heatsink. Victory!
Now, Remove the four Phillips screws holding the RF shielding box together. You may now remove the defective circuit board from the box, and drop in your replacement. Secure the four screws once again, don't overtighten.
10. Now do everything in reverse order. Note the orientation of the HDMI/RCA jacks, and put the "P Board" back in. Make sure that flat slotted ground wire from earlier (attaches to antenna switch) does not get in the way. Tighten the top screw over the wire holder thing (refer to pic4.JPG), and do your best to get that annoying bottom screw back in. It IS doable. I managed to do it without dropping that stupid screw, and without a magnetic driver. I had my right index finger nail holding the screw head to the driver tip, guiding it to the hole, while my left hand held the hand grip at the other end so that nothing would slip. Do this while looking through the gap mentioned earlier in order to find the screw hole. Tighten the two screws holding the "P Board" to the rear input panel plastic. Put back and carefully tighten the fine pitch screw next to the HDMI port. Attach the long white connector cable.
11. Attach the thumb-tightened 75ohm RF connector, L-shaped RF connector, and flat-slotted ground wire to the "antenna switch." With the ground wire routed underneath the antenna switch box, put the coaxial jacks through the rear input panel, and secure them with the nuts. Hand tighten with the 11mm hexagonal socket. If you have trouble getting the antenna switch box in place, try unplugging the right-angled iLink/firewire connector from the top of the "Q Box Assembly," and reconnect it when you're done.
12. Carefully push the dark gray plastic tray back in, watching the wires, and orienting the front input jacks such that they enter their respective slots and can be seen at the front. The two thick horizontal plastic tabs on the bottom tray should snap back into place near the front. The front panel control buttons (i.e., volume, channel, etc) should be firm and click when pressed, not feel mushy. The front iLink connector jack should be flush or near-flush with the panel plastic, and the MemoryStick slot door should look level.
13. TRIPLE CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS
14. Get your partner to hold the front of the TV. Route the AC power cord through the rear cover, and re-attach the rear cover to the TV. Tighten all 15 coarse pitch screws.
P board exposed
P board close upEdited by warpz0ne - 8/24/13 at 5:51pm