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General Samsung HLP Issues & Questions (Post all here) - Page 8

post #211 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by Panic 66
Here is a pic of the Bose VCS10 velcro option! I would appreciate any comments on whether I need to be concerned with the speaker sitting in top of the HLP in this fashion. Below are the dims & weight on this center channel.

6" x 21.5" x 3.25" 9.7 pounds

That's the same speaker I have. Personally I would not have put it up there, but it's your set. I would probably try to anchor the speaker wire somehow so that just in case it does decide to take a forward leap, it doesn't fall and then smack into your screen when it runs out of slack.
post #212 of 2307
Thanks Mark, that sounds like a good idea. The velcro strip is about 16" long so it seems pretty secure. I seems like it would take a serious blow to get it to fall but you never know, especially with kids. My only other option with my current stand is to mount it on the wall above the TV. I am a little concerned with what it would sound like up that high.
post #213 of 2307
With the tv being on a 24" stand does it look okay when you are sitting on the floor? I am going to build a stand for my DLP 50" to contain my equipment and I'm concerned about making it too tall, since DLPs don't have a great vertical viewing angle.
post #214 of 2307
Not bad although I rarely watch from the floor myself. Eye level from the futon at 10' away is not mid screen. It is more like in the bottom 3rd of the screen and looks no different when sitting up a little higher. You definitely see the difference from the floor though.
post #215 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by GSOgymrat
With the tv being on a 24" stand does it look okay when you are sitting on the floor? I am going to build a stand for my DLP 50" to contain my equipment and I'm concerned about making it too tall, since DLPs don't have a great vertical viewing angle.

My stand is 19" tall. From 11 feet back, I moved my head all the way down to the floor and noticed only a very slight decrease in PQ. So, IMO a 24" stand will be fine while sitting on the floor.
post #216 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by gcubed
Thanks! this was also a little annoyance for me, but this would fix it for me. I guess after getting used to it, i will know which inputs i should be expecting to come next.

Also I have Frequency at home for the PS2, just a demo, but should be good enough to get an idea if there is any lag. I have the first gen PS2, got it the day it came out and its still going strong.

Have you tested this yet? I'm kind of eager to hear the results. Actually, I also have frequency, but I haven't played it recently since I don't really play it often, and I noticed the lag with ALL of my other games, so... yeah.
post #217 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by jfischer
Shielding is irrelevant on a DLP set anyway

Is this true? I think on one of the papers that comes with the manual it says to "keep the television away from large appliances with a magnetic field, such as a vacuum", or some wording to that effect.


Does anyone notice the little black dots on the screen when you get close? Manual says they are normal and don't effect performance, but I seem to have quite a few.
post #218 of 2307
bojangling - I think the shielding statement is a carryover for CRT manuals. This was discussed about a year ago when someone noticed the same thing when the HLN sets started coming out.

Describe the little black dots a little more. I have an HLN, so you can see the lines between the mirrors/pixels, but the HLP/HD3 technology is different, and I haven't taken a closeup look at the screen.
post #219 of 2307
Has anyone hooked up XBox with a component connectionon a HLP? Any problems?
post #220 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by GSOgymrat
Has anyone hooked up XBox with a component connectionon a HLP? Any problems?

Yes and it looks great. Just be sure to change the display options in the MS Dash.
post #221 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by gakon
bojangling - I think the shielding statement is a carryover for CRT manuals. This was discussed about a year ago when someone noticed the same thing when the HLN sets started coming out.

Describe the little black dots a little more. I have an HLN, so you can see the lines between the mirrors/pixels, but the HLP/HD3 technology is different, and I haven't taken a closeup look at the screen.


The black dots are only noticeable when you are a very close to the screen, i.e. less than a few feet. It almost looks like a gnat has landed on the screen, but when you try and wipe it off, you see its under the screen. The samsung documentation says that a few pixels (1~2) like this are normal, and that if they didn't allow pixels like this to pass through quality control the prices for a unit was be astronomical. I seem to have between 5~10 myself. Yesterday was the first time I noticed them.
post #222 of 2307
Originally posted by Panic 66
Here is a pic of the Bose VCS10 velcro option! I would appreciate any comments on whether I need to be concerned with the speaker sitting in top of the HLP in this fashion. Below are the dims & weight on this center channel.

6" x 21.5" x 3.25" 9.7 pounds
Hey, Panic I think the Velcro thing is a great idea. My concern lies in the angle of the speaker it looks like it is aimed at the ceiling? I have messed with these HT systems for a while now and have found that having the ctr. speaker pointed slightly toward the viewing area really helps in its clarity, volume etc. especially in dialog scenes.
post #223 of 2307
It not as bad as it looks in the picture. I have one rubber bumper on the backside to help the angle. I may add another though since it is pretty adjustable as far as the angle goes. Thanks!
post #224 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by Evil-Rage
Have you tested this yet? I'm kind of eager to hear the results. Actually, I also have frequency, but I haven't played it recently since I don't really play it often, and I noticed the lag with ALL of my other games, so... yeah.

Ok, sorry for the delay, but i just popped frequency in, and figured thats probably one of the best tests for delay... i was scared at first, but then i realized i just sucked... after i got the hang of it again and my fingers figured out what was what, i had no problems with button pressing and delay to what is on the screen. I am running the PS2 to component1 and audio to my onkyo reciever. Now that my eyes are refocused i can continue playing my slow RPGs Hope that answers your question... as far as i could tell i didnt notice any lag to the game.
post #225 of 2307
Just got my 5063 - overall, very happy with it! SD is OK, HD is fair to excellent - content really varies. DVDs are exceptional! At least compared to what I was used to.

Anyway, the only issue is that how HD is displayed varies greatly between channels. I have Comcast - Motorola 6200 STB. Have it set for 720P, 16:9 & output through component (don't have a DVI cable yet - will try this soon). TV is set to "wide".

My HD HBO feed displays full width, but a very "short" image - has around 4" bars on top & bottom. The network HD feeds (ABC, CBS, NBC) have around 4" bars on top, bottom & maybe 3" on the sides. Starz looks great - just thin bars on top & bottom. PBS HD is also great - small bars top & bottom - as are INHD1 & 2. Why is HBO & the network feeds so different? How can I get a consistent (& fuller/wider) image? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

TIA!

Barry
post #226 of 2307
Got a novice question I was hoping someone can answer.

If I have a non-progressive DVD player (1st gen. Toshiba), and I connect it to the component output of the HLP, does the Faroudja on the TV set 'convert' the image into a progressive picture? Or do I need to buy a progressive dvd player?

thx!
post #227 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by daumier
If I have a non-progressive DVD player (1st gen. Toshiba), and I connect it to the component output of the HLP, does the Faroudja on the TV set 'convert' the image into a progressive picture? Or do I need to buy a progressive dvd player?

thx!

That's exactly what the Faroudja chip is for. In most cases you would have to spend a significant amount of money to get better PQ through the component inputs of your TV.

DVI or HDMI input is another matter. At some point you may want a new upscaling DVI or HDMI enabled DVD player. Right now they start at around $200 but they all seem to have some problems. There should be new ones in the $200 - $350 range soon. I don't see any reason to be in a hurry.
post #228 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by bkushin
...

My HD HBO feed displays full width, but a very "short" image - has around 4" bars on top & bottom. The network HD feeds (ABC, CBS, NBC) have around 4" bars on top, bottom & maybe 3" on the sides. Starz looks great - just thin bars on top & bottom. PBS HD is also great - small bars top & bottom - as are INHD1 & 2. Why is HBO & the network feeds so different? How can I get a consistent (& fuller/wider) image? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
...
Barry

All feeds arent the same... some networks upconvert everything while others are native in HD, and i believe this goes for shows on the channel too, some shows are upconverted copies and some are orginials... not sure completely but you can get a lot more info about that in the HD section on the forum!
post #229 of 2307
bkushin:
Check on the User Menu to make sure you have selected TV Wide rather than PC wide. You have too much of the screen unused so I suspect that your set is on PC Wide.
post #230 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by bojangling
The black dots are only noticeable when you are a very close to the screen, i.e. less than a few feet. It almost looks like a gnat has landed on the screen, but when you try and wipe it off, you see its under the screen. The samsung documentation says that a few pixels (1~2) like this are normal, and that if they didn't allow pixels like this to pass through quality control the prices for a unit was be astronomical. I seem to have between 5~10 myself. Yesterday was the first time I noticed them.

bojangling:
I suspect that you are not seeing stuck pixels but dust somewhere in or around the light engine (stuck pixels are very clearly square while dust particles are irregular in shape). If it was a stuck pixel, you would be able to see it from farther away than "a few feet." The manufacturing process for DLP chips is not as iffy as LCDs, so you don't have the same quality control issues. Mirrors occasionally get stuck but not on the scale you are suggesting. Besides, Samsung has been very good about dealing with stuck pixels. However, the dust issue is up to the owner to deal with. I have not had a problem with dust so I cannot advise you but I suggest you search this forum for dust issues rather than bad pixels...

One alternative is to make sure that you don't watch the set from "a few feet" away...

Good luck.
post #231 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by bkushin
Anyway, the only issue is that how HD is displayed varies greatly between channels. I have Comcast - Motorola 6200 STB. Have it set for 720P, 16:9 & output through component (don't have a DVI cable yet - will try this soon). TV is set to "wide".

This all "sounds correct". I think you only get "Wide (PC)" and "Wide (TV)" as choices through DVI and HDMI inputs.

Why is HBO & the network feeds so different?

You shouldn't have any black bars with true HD material.

What you describe fits best with a STB that still thinks it is sending a signal to a 4x3 set instead of 16x9. I would start there. Maybe owners of the same STB can help to varify that it is set for 16x9 output.

I assume that you are also connecting your DVD player through component. Check a film with a 1.77:1 to 1.85:1 aspect ratio. If the DVD player is set to output to a 16x9 TV and your TV is set to "Wide" then there should be no black bars at all.

Examples would be any of the recent animated films like "Finding Nemo", "Monsters Inc", "Ice Age" or "A Bugs Life". There shouldn't be any black bars with these films or with any TV program that is being created as HD.

Even HD channels sometimes transmit SD material. If the station you are watching is converting SD for wide screen HD TV sets they will add black bars to the signal. I understand they do that with commercials a lot.
post #232 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by bojangling
The samsung documentation says that a few pixels (1~2) like this are normal, and that if they didn't allow pixels like this to pass through quality control the prices for a unit was be astronomical. I seem to have between 5~10 myself. Yesterday was the first time I noticed them.

This is interesting. I thought Samsung had a zero-tolerance policy toward stuck mirrors on their previous DLPs. Has this changed with the HLP line of sets?

Edit: typo
post #233 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by htwaits

This all "sounds correct". I think you only get "Wide (PC)" and "Wide (TV)" as choices through DVI and HDMI inputs.
* This is correct - I get no "Wide (PC)" option thru component...

Why is HBO & the network feeds so different?

You shouldn't have any black bars with true HD material.

What you describe fits best with a STB that still thinks it is sending a signal to a 4x3 set instead of 16x9. I would start there. Maybe owners of the same STB can help to varify that it is set for 16x9 output.

* Actually, I figured it out - had the cable guy out & he noticed that the TV wasn't switching to Component2, which is where the STB was connected. It kept wanting to receive the signal through ANT1 instead. What fixed it was setting the Moto 6200 to 1080i output, NOT 720p as has been recommended here. Works great now - full screen on all HD channels!

I assume that you are also connecting your DVD player through component. Check a film with a 1.77:1 to 1.85:1 aspect ratio. If the DVD player is set to output to a 16x9 TV and your TV is set to "Wide" then there should be no black bars at all.

Examples would be any of the recent animated films like "Finding Nemo", "Monsters Inc", "Ice Age" or "A Bugs Life". There shouldn't be any black bars with these films or with any TV program that is being created as HD.

Even HD channels sometimes transmit SD material. If the station you are watching is converting SD for wide screen HD TV sets they will add black bars to the signal. I understand they do that with commercials a lot.

See my comments above & THANKS to all for the replies! Problem fixed for now...
post #234 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by bkushin
See my comments above & THANKS to all for the replies! Problem fixed for now...

I can't find you "fix" comments. Could you tell me which message you are referring too. I've got to know how the story ended.
post #235 of 2307
I currently own a 1st generation HLM set. Can someone testify to any significant performance differences between the new models and the old one ?
post #236 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by htwaits
I can't find you "fix" comments. Could you tell me which message you are referring too. I've got to know how the story ended.

HT - here's my original post - my comments are after the *.
Bottom line is HD channels now look great! Full screen & excellent PQ - almost DVD quality. I was beginning to think that DVDs would be the only place I'd really be able to expeience a huge improvement with this set, but now that I've solved this problem, I'm extremely happy with it! Again, the fix was to set the Motorola 6200 STB to output 1080i, NOT 720p - not sure why, since 720p is the native resloution of the TV, but apparently the component inputs want to see 1080i. Maybe if/when I connect via DVI, 720p will work, but right now I'm thinking - if it ain't broke...

Anyway, thanks again for you input & for all the useful info you post here! Novices like me really appreciate your comments...

Barry

==============================================

This all "sounds correct". I think you only get "Wide (PC)" and "Wide (TV)" as choices through DVI and HDMI inputs.
* This is correct - I get no "Wide (PC)" option thru component...

Why is HBO & the network feeds so different?

You shouldn't have any black bars with true HD material.

What you describe fits best with a STB that still thinks it is sending a signal to a 4x3 set instead of 16x9. I would start there. Maybe owners of the same STB can help to varify that it is set for 16x9 output.

* Actually, I figured it out - had the cable guy out & he noticed that the TV wasn't switching to Component2, which is where the STB was connected. It kept wanting to receive the signal through ANT1 instead. What fixed it was setting the Moto 6200 to 1080i output, NOT 720p as has been recommended here. Works great now - full screen on all HD channels!

I assume that you are also connecting your DVD player through component. Check a film with a 1.77:1 to 1.85:1 aspect ratio. If the DVD player is set to output to a 16x9 TV and your TV is set to "Wide" then there should be no black bars at all.

Examples would be any of the recent animated films like "Finding Nemo", "Monsters Inc", "Ice Age" or "A Bugs Life". There shouldn't be any black bars with these films or with any TV program that is being created as HD.

Even HD channels sometimes transmit SD material. If the station you are watching is converting SD for wide screen HD TV sets they will add black bars to the signal. I understand they do that with commercials a lot.
post #237 of 2307
Quote:


Originally posted by bkushin
HT - here's my original post - my comments are after the *.

Thank for reposting. I missed your comments to my message because they were included with bold face in the quote you did. I didn't read it thinking it was just a copy of my message. Sorry about that.

If you notice the context of a quoted message you will see a "B" in brackets followed by text then a "/B" in brackets. That's HTML for "start bold face" and "end bold face". You can interject your comments into someone else's message by using those two commands.

It sounds like you have a setup that is working now. I would still check with moto STB users to find out how to get the same results with 720p.

Enjoy.
post #238 of 2307
I am wondering if anyone can confirm whether the samsung HLPs can work with dvi video cards in computers. I want to be able to play my pc games on my tv using a dvi connector and that will be a big reason whether I pick up the HLP or not.
post #239 of 2307
I've had my new 50" HLP for about a week now and I have occasional lipsync problems. I haven't really had the time to experiment, but it's most noticeable on DVDs. I'm using a Samsung 831 player with a direct DVI connetion to my HLP. I've had th unit for about a week now and it might go back. This is a real bumer as the picture is stunning.
post #240 of 2307
I just swapped an HLN for an HLP & I have a DCT6200. 720P works fine on SD & HD channels ....if...you use the DVI input/output.

However, in 720P it takes 2-3 seconds for the channels to change, and the screen blanks out inbetween. With the Moto6200 in 1080i mode, the channel changes are instantaneous. -- And 720P is supposed to be the Sammy's native mode, ain't it? Go figure!

UPDATE: Notwithstanding what I said above, I just switched the Moto back and forth between 1080i and 720p -- and -- NOW, but not before, the channels change instantly in both 1080 and 720.

(But I think the PQ of SD was better with the HLN!!! The PQ of the HLP on SD channels via component is poor-to-fair and only slightly better via DVI - the PQ looks pixelated and not as crisp as with the HLN -- this is progress??!!)
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