2004-05 Mitsubishi DLP'S! - Page 17

Son of bitch!



I don't get the not returning the old lamp. Why would you want to in the first place? Why are they "rewarding" us for not doing it?

Regardless $150 sounds cheap to me.

I think that would be an additional $150

Well, I hate to post this now, but a couple of people have asked what the set looks like without the screen on it. I really wanted to wait until my new Salamander Designs cabinet was in, because I just have it on a coffee table right now (with a little wooden reinforcement) and it doesn't look as nice as I would like. Here is my 62525 without the screen on it. I shot it from the side to avoid too much flash refection. (Even with the anti-glare properties of the screen underneath, you get pretty harsh blooming from a flash camera.) Notice the lack of glare in the pic, though. I have a lot of lights on in the room, and only used a flash to really illuminate the black corners for those who are worried about what they look like. With the light walls in that room, you would normally see a lot of reflection/glare. I love this set without the screen on it.

rtmoore4

Doesn't look nearly as bad as my imagination would have dreamed up.

Don't know when Mits will have the trim option available(already been announced) but if it were me, I think I could fabricate something and attach it with a little velcro. ;0)

Big Al... do you mind sharing which store you work at?

Thanks,

I HAVE seen the new Mitsubishi's. Un Real...

Better picture than I have EVER seen. Better looking than any plasma. Real deep. 3 dimensional.

Here in Denver at SoundTrack.. Only one better...???? Possibly Lcos

The image is truly stunning on this TV. The colors are very rich and vivid. However, there are certain quality control issues that is forcing me to reconsider this set now.

Pro's
HD2+ Chip
Contrast Ratio
Cable Card
Built in QAM/ATSC Tuner

Con's
Glare Screen - My TV is next to a sliding glass door and the reflection is very distracting, even with the blinds closed. The only time I cannot see a glare on this set is when my room is pitch black.
Fan Noise - Fan was nice and quiet until this morning. It suddenly got 2 to 3 times louder than it was and is now distracting
Tilt - The tilt is very noticeable on the top half of the screen, but not so noticeable on the bottom. It's about a 1 or 2 degrees of counter clockwise tilt.

I'm thinking of exchanging it for the Samsung HLP-5663. Yes, the Sammy has the HD3 Chip, but I don't think the difference is that dramatic. Maybe 5% worse than the Mits. The Sammy does not have the ATSC Tuner nor the cable card, however I didn't plan on using either for them since my cable company gives me all the HD channels except NBC, plus I order VOD, and PPV, so I need two-way communication to the Cable company. The Sammy has much less glare, and is lighter and has a smaller footprint.

In order for me to keep the Mit's, I would need an anti-glare screen...Backordered until 10/15 + another $200, I would need a service tech to replace/fix the fan, plus adjust the tilt geometry. Too much of a hassle. If Mit's would give me an anti glare screen replacement, I would certainly keep the set and get the fan and tilt tweaked, but I highly doubt it.

Just my thoughts this early Saturday Morning.

Tweakophyte, I work at the Denver soundtrack store... they've just re-arranged our bigscreen room so now the mitsu's are next to the new JVC D-ILA's, then the sammy hln/hlp and LG DLPs.

Thanks for posting that picture, rtmoore4. Sorry you don't have your new cabinet yet. It doesn't look bad at all, guess I won't sweat it this weekend after all.

Thanks again,
Eric

Here's another picture - my room has walls of windows so it's bright in the daytime. I took my screen off for less reflection. Because the bezels are black you can't really see the rails and clips where the Diamond Shield fits in when the screen if off so I don't really think it looks unfinished. One note for all, be careful when pulling the screen off. It really takes some hard prying. When prying the sides off the clips, it may help to have someone else nearby in case it jumps out the bottom rail. Per the instructions, I loosened the right side first, then the left. When the left popped out the clip, the whole screen popped out the bottom rail and dropped to the floor. This isn't intended to cause concern just some cautionary advise.

Someone mentioned ordering an anti-glare screen for the 525. From where? Mits parts told me the 725 screen will not fit on the 525.

On another topic, I posted OTA / tuner problems. Once I reset the TV and re-memorized the channels everything came back. The only thing I can think of that I changed that may have caused me to lose digital channels was that I rememorized previously with the "Prefer Digital" setting off. As the manual states this is supposed to show both analog and digital choices with this setting off. However, I think it caused me to see only analog choices on the Guide. I also couldn't manually select the digital channels with this setting. Anyway, I reset the TV, rememorized with Prefer Digital on and now I'm back to getting all the OTA network channels.

On the fan noise topic, I have a tech (ASC) scheduled to do the fan mod on Wednesday - I'll let you know how it turns out. He said on the phone that a new part has to be used and that the fan has to be reversed. I'll post more after I see what he does.

All in all, with a few learning lessons, I'm getting more and more comfortable with the TV and am impressed overall. HD is especially awesome. I compared in the store, side by side with HLP 50", and I liked the Mits picture better. And I was very close to buying the Sammy - I still think it's a better value but I wanted the best picture.

Are any of you using internal antennas for OTA programming? If so, what kind are you using?

My new 62525 should be here around the 15th of August. I'd like to try an antenna for OTA broadcasts... especially Fox football broadcasts...

I'll also have Bright House cable, but I've heard the OTA broadcasts can be better than the cable feed.

-jb

"I'm thinking of exchanging it for the Samsung HLP-5663. Yes, the Sammy has the HD3 Chip, but I don't think the difference is that dramatic. Maybe 5% worse than the Mits. The Sammy does not have the ATSC Tuner nor the cable card, however I didn't plan on using either for them since my cable company gives me all the HD channels except NBC, plus I order VOD, and PPV, so I need two-way communication to the Cable company. The Sammy has much less glare, and is lighter and has a smaller footprint."


If I were you I would go with one of the HD2+ Sammy's. Also, are you saying that you can't order PPV events with a Cablecard?

"Someone mentioned ordering an anti-glare screen for the 525. From where? Mits parts told me the 725 screen will not fit on the 525."

They would be wise to make some that will fit.

Only thing about the D-ILA/LCOS is that its has an internal reflection that makes the picture look like its glowing.

Check out Home Theater August, 2004 issue for a run-down on OTA antennas. They recommend the Wineguard Squareshooter and Radio Shack 15-880 ($50 / indoor antenna). Myself my house came with an outdoor antenna which has been sitting idle on the roof for 7 years - glad I have it now.

That is correct about PPV and CableCard. PPV, Video on Demand, and to an extent On-Screen Guides require you to send a request to the Cable company. This requires 2-way communication that the current generation of CableCards do not have.

That is correct about PPV and CableCard. PPV, Video on Demand, and to an extent On-Screen Guides require you to send a request to the Cable company. This requires 2-way communication that the current generation of CableCards do not have.

I had seen someone say they could still get PPV using CableCard if they called the cable company, just not by remote. Can anyone confirm this?

Technically, a phone ordered PPV is no problem, but whether you cable provider will support this is another matter. Mine doesn't.

I researched over the air antenna issue and can tell you the weingard looks cool and may/probably works fine but I bought a channel master 4 bay and its perfect. In fact when I though I was having an antenna problem I had an antenna guy come to check signal strength and he found the channel master had very strong signal almost 2 or 3 times the winegard square shooter.

you can see the web site that has lots of info and where I bought my antenna at

www.warreneloctronics.com

Alrighty then. Went to TAP today and they very diligently told me that this would make me very unhappy because the "opacity" is not right for use with a tv.

Now I'm leery about being the guinea pig on this one. What do you think rc?

If the anti-glare screen on the upcoming 52725 is anything like the anti-glare screen on the MIts 55813 CRT, it is not going to completely eliminate glare. The most effective way to eliminate the glare is to remove the protective screen.

The anit-glare screens on the Samsungs, Toshiba's and now Panny DLP's(just seen that one at Anderson TV & Stereo) does something to the picture that I just can't discribe. I does something to the viewing angle, I don't know how to discribe the effect I'm looking at.

The only really effective way to eliminate glare is to turn off the lights that are shining off of it. If you're not willing to do that then Auditor55 has it exactly right--you have to get rid of the screen.

I don't really have too much against people who can't live with glare. What you could do is get some of those solar filters for telescopes and look through them and not see anything. Then you could post in and tell all the CRT lovers to shove it because your display shows REAL blacks!

I can certainly understand your point.

It would seem that there are (at least) two parameters that would determine whether or not a shield is interchangable.

#1, it has to physically fit, and

#2, it has to be compatible with the TV, i.e. not produce luminance or chrominance or other INACCURACIES that render your $5000 investment HANDICAPPED.

So back to my post from a couple days ago, which is:

If you put a "better" shield on a "lesser" TV, will it still be able to be accurately calibrated by an ISF tech?

Go ahead and flame me, but all this talk about "red push" and "black levels" and "sharpness" and "film-like" and yada-yada is often based on the author viewing a TV that hasn't even been setup properly!

Yeah, it costs a few hundred dollars to adjust it right, but that's only 10% of the equation. If I buy a $500 TV, I'll just fiddle and tweak the knobs 'till it's as good as possible, but when I plunk $5K down.....


Comments ?? ............

sbtv, I was wondering where you got that stand, and if anybody else knows where to get a darker stand...looked at IKEA per post, but didnt see anything that was a dark wood that would hoold the Mits....

On the stand... I'm looking at the black stand for the 52" LG DLP. I think it's about the right width and I like that it has wider shelves than the Mitsu stand.

worked fine on my mits CRT RPTV.. I replaced the glare screen with it which is similar to the 525 series..

before you try though...If you ask...tap plastics will give you a 6x6 sample piece to take home a test out.

technik, I'm a big fan of the Salamander Designs cabinets. You can get them in a very dark wood stain (walnut) or just black if you really want to go dark. Google for them.

On removing the protective screen: I didn't find it difficult at all, once I found just the right tool, that is. I used an old 59 cent, 2 inch plastic putty knife from Home Depot. You can find them in the painting section. It is exactly what the manual called for and worked like a champ. I inserted the tip of it right where each clip was and the clip just popped right out. It was very counterintuitive, as I didn't expect it to come out so easily. I had been messing around with a screwdriver, and that wasn't working out well at all. Something about the pressure of the plastic putty knife against the side of the case just made the clip pop loose. If you do it this way, clip by clip, it will be very easy to control the screen. There are three clips on each side, one each at the top, middle, and bottom. The bottom of the screen fits down in a little groove, so when you flex the screen in the middle to pull the top out, be ready to go ahead and pull it up as soon as the top releases. The screen is very flexible, by the way.

Auditor55, I don't know about the Toshiba and the Panny DLPs, but the anti-glare screen on the Sammy is the exact same material as the inside screen on the Mits. With the protective screen off the Mits, you cannot tell the difference between the two in terms of glare. Now, the PQ is a totally different story. The Mits blows the Sammy away. Some of it (most of it?) is the HD2+ chip, I'm sure. But I think the processing (AVMP2 on the Mits) is a little better as well.

I think the stand is a Sanus but I don't recall - it's 6 years old. I like the Salamander too, looks good, has different color options including black and cherry (or some other wood look).

On removing the screen, I like rtmoore4's description. I also used a putty knife (the manual actually suggests this) but I slipped mine in BETWEEN the clips rather than into the clips. That probably explains why I had to do more prying.

All Thanks 4 the stand info, I 2 am looking at getting the 52525, was thinking about waiting on the 725 though. Nice to know that removing the shield brings the glare inline with the sammy, am still curious as to 1-- What dif the 725 or 825 shield will bring and 2-- if either will fit the 525.... guess thats the waiting game, unless someone has got a response from Mits with the answer.

IMO..the Mits blows the Sammy away as far as PQ and features go!