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Masking 1.78:1 to 2.35:1 - Any Tips?  

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
My screen is a painted area on the wall. It is 84" by 47.25" with black painted borders around it. This makes it a 16:9 which I use "as is" for HD and 1.85:1 DVDs. I use it with a PT-L500U projector.

I got curious about adding some masking at the top and bottom for scope format (2.35:1) DVD's. So I got some black art paper and glued up some 6" x "84" strips, which I applied to the top & bottom of the screen using black velcro in the border area. The strips were placed so as to mask down the screen eliminating any white screen above and below the projected image.

The result was a definite improvement in apparent contrast for 2:35 material. I was actually surprised at how much difference it made. The picture had lot more "pop" to it. In my room, which is completely light controlled, the projected image seemed to float in space. Very nice effect. I can pull off the masks (carefully) when I want to watch 1.78:1 or 1.85:1 programming.

I am continuing to use the cheesy black paper masks until I think up some scheme to make some masks are more durable, and look a little more classy.

I did a search in this area, and did not really find what I was looking for, namely a simple removeable manual mask for this application, that looks a little better than construction paper.

Have any of you folks made a simple manual add/remove mask for your screens? If so, what did you do?

If I think of anything creative I will try it and post it. But so far nothing special has come to mind...

TIA
post #2 of 23
If you don't mind attaching some stuff to your wall, here's a suggestion.

1. Get some moulding, mitre-cut it, paint black or wrap with velveteen, felt, etc..
2. Attach to your wall in place of the painted black borders. Now you have a framed screen.
3. Make some masks by painting/wrapping lightweight board pieces (like foamboard).
4. If you can get the masks to fit snugly into the moulding frame, then you may not need to add any additional hardware to hold them in place. Otherwise, you could probably notch the frame and put some pins on the mask board.

Just an idea, not sure how much work you are willing to invest in doing this.
post #3 of 23
That seems like a nice easy solution. I may have to try it and see how it looks.

I'm in the same boat as SteveGoTex. I've painted a wall and am trying to figure out a manual masking system. My base "screen" is 4:3 and I would like to be able to mask for both 16:9 and 2.35:1.

I'd love to hear other ideas. I was originally thinking about wrapping a 4:3 frame in velveteen and attaching that to the wall. Then I would use velcro and some long pieces of velveteen to adjust the screen size, but I realized I don't have a sewing machine or any skills in that area so it would probably look horrible. :(
post #4 of 23
I think I am going to do something similar to my 16:9 Carada.

I plan on taking thin foam board and covering it in stagecloth. Then split the pieces evenly to achieve a friction fit within the Carada frame. This should give my 2:35 more pop.
post #5 of 23
I haven't actually tried this yet, but have considered using velveteen and a couple of long thin poles as a masking device. Two small nails or tiny hooks could be placed on either side of the top of the screen and the top pole laid across these nails when you wanted to mask the screen. The velveteen would then hang down the correct amount and be weighted with the second pole. When unmasking the screen, you could just take it off and roll it up. You would obviously need two of these and 4 nails/hooks to mask both the top and bottom of the screen. If you used tiny nails, then the nails would be hardly noticeable when the masking wasn't there. It would be very easy to put up, take down, and easy to store.

Not sure what the best material for the poles would be however - it ideally would be thin, light, but not prone to bending.

John
post #6 of 23
In my light controlled theater I have a 78" x 48" 16:9 "blackout cloth" screen surrounded by a 1" x 4" wood frame covered with black velvet. I made 4 panels of 1/2" plywood, covered them with the same black velvet and attached these to the frame with "piano" type hinges (Home Depot) which I painted flat black. The side panels, when in position, convert the screen to 4:3 for old movies and non HD TV shows. The top and bottom panels make the screen 2.35:1. Only 1 pair of panels can be used at a time, obviously. Because the screen is mounted on a black painted wall, these panels are not visible when not in use. The top panel uses velcro to keep it in the up position.

The previous poster, Stevegotex, is correct about the huge improvement in perceived contrast. I am projecting with a Sony HS10 LCD unit, and though it may seem counter-intuitive, the light absorbing borders really enhance the apparent black levels of the image. Movies really do seem to "float in space".
post #7 of 23
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the helpful suggestions.

Here is what I did:

I cut two 6" strips of 1/4" plywood to fit the screen width. I primed and painted them flat black. I then used Velcro to attach them to the screen. They look fine. The flat black paint hides the surface of the plywood pretty well, and I was able to get good straight edges with my table saw.

It is easy enough for me to get to the screen and apply or remove the masks. So I will just do that until I win the lottery and can buy a motorized set up.

Thanks again.
post #8 of 23
I think that's were I am heading as well SteveGoTex. A painted wooden frame around the 4:3 screen/wall and then some painted plywood inserts held in place via velcro.

This looks like the best route for me as I am fabric impaired.
post #9 of 23
SteveGoTex,

Did you apply the velcro to the back or the edge of the plywood?

In other words, does the plywood sit inside the frame border or lay flat on top of it?

If it lies inside the frame border -- I'm assuming it doesn't touch the wall surface of the screen (hovering slightly above it?).

If it lies flat on top of the frame border, light leakage isn't a problem at all?

Thanks.
post #10 of 23
Quote:
I plan on taking thin foam board and covering it in stagecloth.
Mikecazzx, can you find foam board the length for horizontal masking or do you plan on binding several pieces together?

Thanks,
Skip
post #11 of 23
Depends on how much of a geek you're willing to be but my new idea for masking 4-way is to use lego mind storms to move around matte black art paper with a velvet finish.
post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 
I applied the "hook" side of the velcro to the back side of the plywood.

As mentioned in my starting post, my "frame" is painted on the wall around my screen, in flat black. I applied the mating velcro, the "loop" side inside the plack painted frame area. I used the loop side on the wall because it is less reflective than the hook side, and basically disappears into the black painted area when the masks are not on the screen.

I am not sure what you mean by light leakage. The masks "float about 1/16" off the surface of the screen since the thichkness of the velcro holds them out from the wall a little. This does not present any problems that I can see. The masking creates a sharp boundary to the projected image.

Obviously there is some leeway in positioning the masks. I some some small marks on the wall where they should line up. But they can be easily tweaked to fit the actual material being watched.

Not the most elegant solution, but the incremental cost was next to nothing. I had the plywood, the primer and the paint. I bought the velcro.
post #13 of 23
SteveGoTex,

Thanks for the clarification. I had forgotten that your frame border was painted directly onto the wall -- I plan to use a wood frame (moulding).

I mistakenly thought that if the mask was not flush with the wall (i.e., directly on top of it, as opposed to the 1/16" off the surface that you describe), that light would still be able to leak past the boundary (and show up somehow above or below the mask) -- but you've dispelled that notion.

Since I'm using the wood border -- I was thinking of putting the velcro on the edges of the mask and the border -- that way, the border velcro would not be visible at all since it would be inside the screen. I would want to make sure, however, that the mask, when mated to the border, would still "float" above the wall surface -- so as to not scratch the wall. If that's not possible, I'll just put the velcro on the top of the border and the back of the mask, as you did.

Regarding the velcro, did you have the apply it as a strip (or multiple strips) to the whole sides of the plywood and border in order to support it? Or just in the corners (and maybe the middle)?

Thanks again.
post #14 of 23
Thread Starter 
I used about a 4" piece of velcro vertically positioned on the left and right ends of each plywood mask. The masks are long enough to extend into the painted frame area to the left and right of the screen. I also placed a 3" piece of velcro at the horizontal center of the mask along the top edge for the top mask and bottom edge for the bottom mask. These attach to corresponding strips in the centers of the top and bottom black painted area. This keeps the mask from bowing out in the center. since 1/4" plywood is not very rigid.

The plywood strips are light enough that those short strips safely hold the masks in place.

I do not have a way to post a picture, but I hope you get the idea.
post #15 of 23
Excellent, I understand completely.

Thanks again for your response.
post #16 of 23
For anyone familiar with foam board....how durable is it? If you squeeze near an edge a little too hard won't you end up with a depression in the surface? Because of its relatively light weight I'd like to use it rather than wood but I'm concerned about taking it on and off (attached via Velcro) and having it hold up.
post #17 of 23
I checked it out on my last visit to Home Depot. The 3/4" thick foam insulation boards seemed very duarable. I forget the manufacturer.

Check out

http://dowbp-us-residential.buildsca...417688&spid=46
post #18 of 23
I have been using foam board for masking panels with my setup for about a year now and it works well but does scratch and dent a bit with handling. If you just paint it, it may not wear very well. I would suggest covering it with fabric such as black felt or velvet. This will hide any small dents or scratches that develope in the surface finish. It has worked exceptionally well for me.
post #19 of 23
A few more questions on the use of foam board...

I looked at the 2' x 4', 3/4" white panels and the pink material that comes in 4' x 8' sheets. For either material, what method would you use to make a good precise edge when you cut it? I was thinking about using a utility knife and my metal square, or four foot level as a straight-edge. I'm concerned that along the cut small pieces will break out.

How did you adhere the cloth to the foam? Construction adhesive, wood glue? I assume I should only glue it on the back, that is, the side that will be against the screen. Otherwise the glue might bleed through the cloth on the visible side.

I'm considering attaching the foam pieces to the screen with Velcro, at least for the horizontal sections that will go across the top & bottom. And then friction fit the vertical side pieces. Also, the thought here is to make to sets of side pieces. One set for the 16:9 image and one for 4:3.

One final thought. If I decide to always throw the same image size and have no need to adjust the masking, is there an advantage to having the masking protrude from the screen as opposed to attaching the material directly to the screen?

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any feedback.
post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally posted by BHendershot
A few more questions on the use of foam board...

I looked at the 2' x 4', 3/4" white panels and the pink material that comes in 4' x 8' sheets. For either material, what method would you use to make a good precise edge when you cut it? I was thinking about using a utility knife and my metal square, or four foot level as a straight-edge. I'm concerned that along the cut small pieces will break out.

How did you adhere the cloth to the foam? Construction adhesive, wood glue? I assume I should only glue it on the back, that is, the side that will be against the screen. Otherwise the glue might bleed through the cloth on the visible side.

I'm considering attaching the foam pieces to the screen with Velcro, at least for the horizontal sections that will go across the top & bottom. And then friction fit the vertical side pieces. Also, the thought here is to make to sets of side pieces. One set for the 16:9 image and one for 4:3.

One final thought. If I decide to always throw the same image size and have no need to adjust the masking, is there an advantage to having the masking protrude from the screen as opposed to attaching the material directly to the screen?

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any feedback.
Use an even coating of 3M adhesive (if it does not melt foam) and use a light black cloth. You could possibly use large stapes or small staples on the back side to help hold the fabric while it dries.

I have a 16:9 screen and I LOVE 2:35 movies - but I do indeed need to mask the screen it would bring out more depth for sure.
post #21 of 23
I am thinking seriously about applying thick (approx 3 inch) velcro as my entire border (4:3). This would give me the freedom to place the masking plywood planks anywhere I like. My only concern is that the velcro may not absorb the light enough and perhaps be a little reflective. I will be using the loop side of the velcro as the border and the hook side will go on the masks. SteveGoTex you mentioned you had a few areas of velcro showing when your mask was not in place and that it blended to black nicely. Were you getting any noticable reflection and could you discern the velcro areas from you existing black border? I'm looking for a "close is good enough" solution.
post #22 of 23
The thought of putting on Velcro based panels and removing them just seems painful. Attached image is what I came up with after spending a few minutes thinking about the problem.

The string must be vertical to ensure proper panel movement ratio. I have not spent any time thinking about panel materials. It could be a fabric covered plywood strip or two round poles joined by fabric.

The bottom panel should be heavier. For screen size change, all one would have to do would be to unhook the bottom panel (easily reachable) and move it to a different pre-aligned set of hooks.

OK, so what am I missing?
LL
post #23 of 23
I am still working out the final bugs of the planning stage for my masking system. I hope to start working on it next weekend. The main ideas are:

Side panels made of hardboard, covered in black velvet. I will glue strips of sheet metal on the backs of the panel before attaching them to the wall.

Top and bottom panels are made of coroplast, again covered in velvet. I will glue rare-earth magnets to the backs of these panels which will hold the panels in place (attarcted to the sheet metal behind the side panels).

This will give me a very flexible masking system.

I have quite a large screen (102" diagonal), so I may need to put magnets in the middle of the top and bottom panels to prevent them from sagging. I will post the results of my experiment here.

I cannot take credit for this idea. It was discussed on this forum some time ago, but I did not bookmark the thread.
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