Official Toshiba H83/H84 CRT Thread - Page 5

Anyone that has the 46h84 with matching stand, can you post the dimentions of the compartment in the stand. How many components can be stored in it?

Anyone know if you can block out certain video inputs on the tv, I hate the big list of inputs and cosidering I am only using 2 of them, it would be nice to block the unused inputs, I know sony does this, and I belive panasonic as well. Didnt see nothing in the manual, on video block, which blocks out all the inputs.

I have a favor to ask of the H84 owners. I just finished adjusting my overscan, so i changed the HPOS, VPOS etc... settings. Only problem I accidentaly changed some other values by mistakes, some which I cant remember. I was wondering if anyone can jot down the orginal/defualt setting for the rest of the service menu options. I realize HPOS, VPOS those would be different, but the rest like RCUT, BCUT, if somone would be nice enough to take down the info, so i can go down the list, and change them back to default. I was stupid and couldnt figure what key was to change values, and i was makign chagnes on setting, which i cant even remember. If all fails, my only other options would be to go the store i bought at it (50 min drive) and take down the info from there, praying no one messed with the numbers there.

Also would the default setting be the same for 51-57-65 inches. I have the 65H84, but most people own the 57, so wanted to know if the default setting should be same. THANK YOU if someone can help me out, with my stupid mistake.

faheem5 :

I just got my 65h84 (no tweeks) I am recording the default codes and will post them when I can. what value are you looking for? so far I have over 70 default values.

Let me know......and I will post when I can

Hello everyone! I have some questions that I hope are easy to answer. I am considering buying the Toshiba 65H84.

1. Should I wait and buy the 65HX84?
2. What are the differences between the 65H84 and the 65HX84?
3. When will the HX84 series be available?
4. Toshiba's web site has no information on the new HX84 series. Where can I obtain more information about the HX84 series and if it is worth getting over the H84.

Thanks,
ChadZilla

Movie, Sport, and Standard are 'presets' and can't be changed - that's why as soon as you change a setting, it switches to Preference. Make sure you scroll down and save your settings before you switch inputs so they'll stick. You're doing right by starting in Movie to disable SVM.

Settings are saved separately for each input, so no worries there. To calibrate my cable input, I start with the settings I used for the DVD input and tweak by eye from there.

faheem5,

The settings in service mode vary from set to set, as they do receive a preliminary, very basic calibration at the factory. There are no default values.

This is critical - the first thing to do the first time you enter service mode is to write down every value for every setting . Yeah, it's time-consuming, but you'll only have to do it once and it can prevent catastrophe down the road. I remember a post from Mr. Bob long ago (and I can't remember if it was even Toshiba or Mits, maybe 2001 sets) that changing one service mode setting a few clicks blew out your s-video input permanently.

Thank you Kevin for the warning. Thank fully the company I bought it from will switch out the tv for me, as its ahving geometry/convergency problems. So I will get a fresh start. All I did was copy of my height/width/center settings. So in the new set, that is all I am adjusting and leaving everything else alone. And the good thing, is the first time I set my overscan (3.5-4 all around) the gemotry was all out of whack, so they send a tech out to do it. Expect he was running late and only did the vertical lines, not the horizontal. I will call again in a week after my tv is switched out, and this time I will demand who ever, to do both vertical/horizontal.

PS: THANK YOU --- BadOmens for offering to copy the settings, it is good to have for your own record, and stupid people like me. I appreciate you offering, and I hope I dont need them again.

I just recently bought a LG 7832 DVd player for my TV. I'm going through component with 1080i upconversion from the player. THe TV is also set to receive a 1080i signal. First question is, when something appears like a title then the screen goes black, I can still see the last image outline in like grey form or something. I noticed this on Any GIven Sunday and CSI tonight. My TV was calibrated with the DVE disc. Secondly, when I set the LG to output either 480p or 720p, the reds really begin to bleed, but when I switch back to 1080i, everything it cool. Another fact is I own a 51H84C.
THanks

I have the 51H83 and no matter what combination of mute/menu i hit, I cannot get into the service menu to do a 56 pt convergence. Any one have any clues that could help?

press mute 2 imes on remote and then a third time and hold it. Make sure your remote is being read by the IR sensor next to the power button on the set. Then press menu on the set and release mute on the remote and menu on the set at the same time. Press menu on the set again and then the #7 key on the remote. That should do it. Most people that can't get in to it are not hitting the IR sensor or it is blocked by there body hand, etc.
I assume you have the rest of the instructions. At the end when it says press touch focus you'll see a series of red, grren, and blue sweeping lines on your screen. This goes on for 10 to 20 seconds then a massage will come up on your screen saying CALIBRATION COMPLETE. Then just shut off your power on the set wait a second or 2 and turn it back on. The sweeping lines are your touch focus controls learning your saved convergence. Be careful and if you think you screwed anything up at anytime turn the set off with the button on the set.

thanks for the tip..I was hitting menu on the remote..i'll try it on the set and see if that works

ok that worked..now how do you control the convergance..what buttons do what

#3 changes the cursor color to correspond to the gun you are moving. #5 changes the cursor from blinking to not blinking. While it's blinking you can move it around the grid to where you want to make an adjustment. When it's not blinking you do your adjustments at that point. #2 #4 #6 #8 act as your direction you want to move those points on the grid. For example you see red is a little north of where it should be at a certain point on the grid.
Move the cursor while it is blinking to that point, hit #5 again to make it quit blinking, then move the line south to match up using the #8 key on the remote. One thing to keep in mind, the green gun should not be moved accept to change minor geometry errors. The red and blue guns should be lined up to match the green one. When you are done use the sequence i talked about earlier. Press #7 then it will tell you to press touch focus. Also, try not to spend more than 20 minutes or so at a time doing this 56 pt. convergence as the grid is quite bright. Could be a little bit of burn-in risk and your eyes will start making you see things with that high contrast grid after a while. Start in the middle and work your way out and make sure your set has been on for at least 20 mins or so.

Kevin -

Thanks for the feedback. Giving my eyes a week to get used to new settings, I think I'm beginning to notice the change, faces look more 'alive' than before, if that makes sense. Have to do convergence again as well, still see some red fringe around white checks of checkerboard pattern in lower right quadrant, and itty bitty green fringe around white checks in mid-right quadrant.

Of all the patterns, I find the checkerboard most helpful for my tired , old eyes to find problems.

You're doing all the right things - a well calibrated picture may look dark at first, but once your eyes adjust to it you'll see all the added detail you were missing.

As far as convergence goes, it will drift a bit the first month or so as the components settle in. pittdog gave some great instructions above for the 56 point convergence - it allows you to have much more control than the 9 point convergence in the user menu.

Well i got my tv switched out, and took an hour to get all my equipment hooked back up. I am extremly impressed by the picture, and know i know somthing was wrong with the old tv. I just saw parts of CSI and all of Without a Trace. Both shows i watched for the first time ever. THe picture of Without a Trace was excellent, I am a hard customer to please, and did notice artificts in the picture, but my God....I am so glad i got this tv. Now I did notice the geemotry was off, havent checked with AVIA how bad, will do that tomm, and fix my overscan. And after a few days, call the tech to look at and fix the gemotry. Thanks again everyone for trying to help me earlier, with the service codes. Now to figure out my cable box problem...of to hdtv hardware section.

I have the 46HX83 Model - can someone please tell me what is going on when I fire up a DVD thhe settings that I had under Preference, prior to starting a DVD, CHANGE, and NOT for the better. Example: I have Contrast in Preference set a 25 - with a DVD playing it goes to 100. When I go back to watching regular SD/HD TV - my Preference setting return to what I SET THEM AT! What it IS?

TKS Michael

It might be that you havent save them in the input. For example, your dvd might be in Componet 1 - You set your setting in prefercne but didnt go all the way down and hit save. So everytime you go back to componet 1, i am guessing its going back to the default.

TKS faheemS - that makes sense! I forgot that I have two component hook ups and mistakenly assumed that my settings on the one transferred to the other. I will have to now transfer the Preference setting I prefer to the DVD Component connection.

TKS

a few notes in this thread were asking the difference between the H and HX series of sets. The HX series has better components, more elements in the color guns, etc. It's the higher grade version. The H series is generally widely available from lots of retailers, while the HX series seems to be much more limited to who sells it. I know when I got my 50HX82 set a couple years back only 1 dealer in the Detroit area carried them (ABC Warehouse). My set still looks fantastic in HD, and I've never seen a white line down the middle! It's been well over a year since I did my last tweak using DVE and Avia.

I also belive the HX has a built in tuner as well.

The built-in, integrated, HD tuner is available on the H93 / HX93 sets as well as the upcoming H94 / HX94 sets.

The 9x series designation indicates the presence of the built-in, integrated HD tuner.

Tim

Man I almost had a heart attack watching the bears game yesterday in HD. Around the 2nd quarter, I started to notice the white(grayish) line going horizontally acroos the center of the tv. At first it only appeared for a second or less. As time went on, I was seeing it more often. By the time the game ended it was permentaly on the screen. I thought it was FOX, i tried other HD channels, and still there. I was getting pissed, as I just switched the tv, and didnt want to go through it all over again (convergence/gemetry problems) Then I thought the horizonal graysih line was because the tv is just hot (been on for around 3 hours) turned it off, came back near 6 hours later, and still there. Thats it I nearly just give up on it. Then I rememberd, before the FOX game, I put the HD box from 1080i to 720p. I put it back to 1080i and bam the problem dissapreed, I waited an hour, and checked all differnt channels, and nothing. THANK GOD. So if somone ever notices the white(grayish) line going horizontal across the center of the tv, try changing your HD resolution.

ALso a question, I only have 2 things hooked up to the tv, is their a way to block out the rest of the inputs from the tv??? I know Sony and Panasonic offer this, just wondering if this tv does. Nothing about it in the manual, just a complete blcokout of every input.

faheem,

The only problem with setting the box to output 720p is that for 1080i the STB is downconverting any 1080i signal to 720p, then the TV to upconverts that 720p signal to 1080i, and you will be losing some display resolution in the process. May not be too noticable, but true nonetheless.

You want to set your STB to bypass the original signal resolution directly to the TV without performing any conversions. I use this setting on my Scientific Atlanta Explorer 3250HD STB which I use to tune digital cable and cable HDTV channels, and it works great. Then your TV will automatically upconvert any non-480p signal directly to 1080i, leaving 1080i untouched. 480p will continue to be handled by your TV according to the Theater Settings - Display Format setting of 540p/1080i.

Tim

I set my STB (SA4200HD) to always output 1080i. I let the box do the upconversion and the TV (57HX83) displays the 1080i picture with no changing necessary.

This avoids the irritating delay and wavy lines when the TV has to switch from 480i to 1080i as you change channels.

I've A/B'ed letting the box do the upconvert and the TV doing it, and to me anyway, the box seems to produce a very slightly better picture. Couple that with no delay/res. change when switching from HD -> SD channels and it's the perfect setting for me.

Well, I was so happy to see that Best Buy had the TV today that I made the purchase and scheduled a delivery for next Monday. Can't wait to get this Bad boy. I got the 46H84. It was 1,399 w/ 10% discount which brought it down to 1,329 + 8.05% Sales tax + 35 Delivery Total 1,474.

I hope I don't run into any issues with the Line that some people mention. Seems to be less existent on the H84 than H83 from what I've read? The Best Buy guy sure was trying really hard to push the service plan for I think 250 which was debatable but I decided against it. It would've included a free Calibration by a Tosh Tech and 4 year extended warranty. He said to Calibrate it would normally cost $80 for the service call and about 80 for an hr to calibrate. He also said it was recommended to get it calibrated once a year by the Manufacture or you might get some shadowing. Is this true and accurate information? Thanks for any info and its great to join HDTV world again soon.

I didnt even know the plan covered calibration, you might want to find out. The store I bought my 65H84 offered me 5 years of in-home service plus free cleaning of CRT, plus tech calls for 179. (ofcourse that price is heavily discounted, since I know the guy, but at that price I couldnt say no) But if they really cover calibration, find out.

Anyone know if you can block out inputs which you are not using on the tv???

Faheemm5, Why is this an issue(the input blocking)? I'ts not going to eliminate any steps to change inputs. Input button-press once. Select input # -press once. Done. It wouldn't matter if there was 500 different inputs. If you're only using (for example)#3 and #5 whocare about all the rest, still only takes 2 key pushes to change it. Just curious, that's all.

Pittdog1: I have 3 reasons, why I need this feature. Personally the tv I have had (14 years and still going strong, SVIDEO on it) JVC 27 inch, used to have TVIDEO, where I would press to change inputs. That is very old and hard habit to break, so that is why I only perfered to have 2 inputs listed, so I can press TVIDEO and switch between my DVD and HDTV.

Secondly my parents are somewhat old and slow, and even a simple process like pressing TVIDEO with a number after it, can be somewhat difficult, atleast confusing, trying to remember what button to hit, again with 2 choices not so bad.

Third, I dont like the big list when I hit TVIDEo and see the list, and know nothing is there, so why is it listed. Seems like a simple and easy feature to have, but cant have everything.

So any way to block out unused inputs, i am 99.9% sure this is not possible on the Toshiba, but just need someone out there to confirm it.