Official Toshiba H83/H84 CRT Thread - Page 10

Thanks hall, nice tool, I just tried it. I wonder about it's numbers. I shouldn't say that what I mean to say is I guess I really gotta wonder about the THX guys, they must want people to break their necks while watching a movie. The maximum THX seems good but the recommended thx seem absurd to me

I guess the only way to verify these numbers would be for you guys who believe you are at the appropriate distance to input your numbers and tell me which set of numbers you are closer at. What would also help also would be for people who think they've bit off more than they can choose screenwise and those who wish they went larger also to do it. That would be a good real world (HIGHLY SUBJECTIVE) set of data to use.

I've also read

"Viewing distance in feet x 4 = TV size in inches"

Oh my, every body could give different answers on this one all day long and no body would really be right or wrong. If it seems to big at first, you'll probably get used to it. As a general rule (for me anyway) 48"@8', 55"-57" @10' and 60"-65"@12'. It seems to me anyway that this coincides with your field of view meaning 10" 's or so every 2' further back. I sit at 8' and have a 46" by the way. I thought it looked good but maybe a little big at first(coming from a 32" at 8') but got used to it very quickly and wouldn't change it now.

Thanks for the info people. I'll probably go 50, seems like a safe bet either way I slice up my room. biglyle I'm over here on the floor in the fetal position waiting to see those xbox pics. lol
I'm still leaning closer to the toshiba than the other model. I can find the toshiba closer to what I intend to spend right now.

Has anyone removed the plastic screen on the front of the TV? How hard is it to do it? Does it improve the picture? I see way too many reflections on the screen with the plastic screen in place.

You can remove it but you may face the screen sagging if you do it improperly, thats why instead of removing it completely, I chose to place it behind the other screens, that way it keeps the actually viewing screen from sagging and you lose the glare. as long as it is perfectly clean and dust free, you won't notice any loss in picture quality.

x-box pics are coming. Have had a little PC problems this weekend.
Give me 2 hours

Anybody know if there is a matching tower that goes with these sets? I saw a cheapie "audio tower" at Wal Mart that has three glass shelves and the edges match the look of the set quite well. Does Toshiba make one that matches? Thanks.

The smaller 46" (and under ??) sets have a matching stand. Go here, http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisi...cessories.asp.

question about this TV and progressive 3:2 dvd watching..

in the tv setup video screen there are two options to set:

1 - 1080i or 540p
2 - film or video

If I want progressive 3:2 - do i need to set the video to 540p? or does
the TV automatically detect that if it's set to "film" mode?

totalownership

these are for you, pic quality ain't the best as my digital camera doesn't take good motion shots (or it could be lack of operator know how, doubtful, but could be )

logo

silverdome

at the line

in the huddle

again, sorry for the image quality, the game looks much, much better in person.

My brief experience with this set jibes with most others who have posted here: There is little difference between 540p and 1080i for 480 input. Set your DVD player to 16x9 and turn progressive scan on, then try the TV with different settings (I didn't notice any improvement and set mine to 540p and video).

I recently tried to adjust the "preference" settings and on the video inputs I could adjust the contrast, but on the antenna input, the contrast appears to be automatic and somewhat high, around 75%. Is there a way to lower the contrast setting in the antenna input mode?

Thanks,

Jim

Cruisin9: Turn OFF the "ALS" or "Automatic light sensor" setting. If your contrast is locked or disabled, ALS must be "ON".

I've tried my DVD player, in progressive scan mode, on 540p and 1080i numerous times and can't notice a difference at all.

Does this only upconvert 480p input ?? If not, and it will upconvert 480i also, it might be worthwhile to turn progressive scan OFF on the DVD player and let the TV manipulate the signal.

Hall: Thanks for the info. I guess the ALS is also input specific, just like the brightness, contrast and tint.

Don't see any reason why you couldn't try that. Then you'd want to set the TV's Cinema Mode to Film for 3:2 pulldown. I assume the better DVD players will do better than the TV, but if you have a marginal DVD player or a nonprogressive one, then using the TV's film mode may help.

Cruisin: Each input has it's own settings.

Thanks biglyle , thanks for now making me have to go out and sell my body to get a set NOW. I see all I NEED to see from those pics. It's difficult to see the finer detail but things like the field and the stadium shots says it all. While mine looks like I'm playing a game yours looks like your AT the game. The field looks outstanding. I wish I would have requested you put some Giants shots in there. Then maybe it's better you didn't cause I'd have to go to a construction site and get a "key" for the front plate glass of my nearsest Toshiba dealer.
I gotta get one of these soon. I think, just maybe, just might next friday around veterans day I might "pull the trigger". I hope it doesn't take forever to deliver and I'm concerned about getting it into the apartment. There isn't much room in the door way and there's a wall flush with the front door outside. If I gave you guys some demensions do you think you guys can figure out whether I'm good or not?

I lost the battle between XBox and PS2.... My wife's arguement was we know a lot of people with PS2s and "we can trade or share games".

I've always thought games like football on the XBox looked like an actual game on TV !! Those shots just confirm it more.... And when I'd seen them in the store, it was on a 20" regular TV.

Hall: You are correct. I turned off the ALS on the "antenna 1" input and then I was able to adjust the contrast. I guess each input has to be adjusted individually for all the parameters including ALS, contrast, etc.

Thanks for the help!

Wife + electronics advice =

Does anybody know what de-interlacer and scaling chip the h84 toshibas use?

Hey Hall I guess it's my turn to eat crow. Remember when I said earlier about the wife and electronics? Well I just fell into the same "trap". I was on my way to pick up the Toshiba but we wanted to look around first and see what's up. So to make a long story short, Sony and Toshiba went head-to-head. KP-51WS520 and the 41H84 went neck and neck. Battling like two dogs. I actually looked at the Sony, well actually I had a thing against the Sony. So I really can't say I gave it a fair judgement initially in my quest for HDTV. The Sony looked good and the Toshiba looked good. But wifey wanted the Sony but I had "put my foot down" but when I looked in her eyes you would think that I just tied her puppy in a sack and threw him in the river. I felt so bad I caved in and got the Sony. Got it at Circuit City. They don't carry toshiba's there so I had to audition them at Best Buy. The Sony was cheaper at CC than at BB and was actually cheaper than both plus they threw in a free xbox (which BB is also doing afaik)

So thanks for the info guys but I wound up getting wifed in the back.

i purchased a 51H84 from Best buy about a month ago for $1480 (no xbox). The TV has been great. The picture is unbelievable. I noticed a couple black pixels, and I had a Best Buy tech come out, but he said it was dust. I think he is right, but a couple pixels are also blue. I can't see them from 9 feet away, so i'm not too worried about it. Really my only complaint. I have no "white line" whatever that is about. I used the Avia disc to calibrate. my setttings are:
Contrast: 70
Brightness: 30
Color: 40
Tint: R3
Sharpness: 30 (can't tell either way)
Color Temp: Medium
My contrast level seems high, i actually left it at 60, but when I calibrated it, that's what it liked. I will have to do it again I think. I also grabbed a wavefrom monitor/vectorscope from work, and hooked that up to my TV, but it makes no difference because The "video out" signal from the TV is independant from any settings you make. Anyway, I checked it with the color bars from the Avia disc, and the vectorscope colors were almost right on.

It was too hard to read the waveform levels. They seemed right, but I was getting a fat bar of black levels between 0-7.5 IRE. It should be right at 7.5, but maybe the waveform wasn't exactly calibrated.

Also, the waveform montor wouldn't give me a level from a DVI source, or Component. I had to use my PS2, with an S-video source. I don't know if this is for copyright protection, or the vectorscope can't understand the signal.

When the best buy tech came out, he went into the tech menu, and did the 56 point calibration. He spent a few minutes on it. I went into it yesterday, but It was a little overwhelming. It is so hard to tell that 1 pixel out of alignment. Also, I have a 5% overscan, which I would like to adjust because It cuts off sports graphics. The tech did say my television is one of the best pictures he'd seen. He was laughing at the fact that I even called him because he said the picture is so clean. He was very nice. Glad I got the warranty.

I am also running a Samsung DVD HD player (HD841), and a Comcast motorola box (6208, waiting for 6412 in L.A.). Fantastic TV, i am glad to be part of the HD world now.