Grab these remotes while you can!! Irrationally Priced Clearence! Radio Shack 15-2117 - Page 3  

Cow.... there are no dumb JP1 questions, only dumb JP1 users.

I even have all of the JP1 parts. Must make the cable...just need to cut the connector off an old ide cable.

I just looked at the JP1 site and see very few new messages, but now I see that there is a USB interface! However, the tricky part is the 6 pin JP1 end so I may as well go with the parallel port.

Will the software support all of the connectors?

The latest IR supports all the interfaces.

Ok...apparently I'm remote challenged..can someone list the steps to assign the Input button using keymove to the tv/video button on the vcr? The manual tells me how to move from one key to another...where do I enter the 215 code?

First, make sure you device button you are using is configured to be
a "VCR" device. By default the VCR button is configured to be a "VCR"
device. If you are using something like AUX button, you need to first
configure that button to be a "VCR" device rather than Home Automation
device.

See Page 19 in the 15-2117 manual labeled "Reassigning the device keys"
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor...oc70/70607.pdf

Second assuming your button is configured for the correct device, assign
the *device* code to the button using the procedure on Page 9 of your
15-2117 manual labeled "Programming a device"
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor...oc70/70607.pdf

Verify the Power button works for your device.

Finally, to assign "Input" function to the TV/Video button use the
instructions on page 15 of your manual labeled "Using keymover"
http://support.radioshack.com/suppor...oc70/70607.pdf

Based on what you are telling me, you found the "advanced codes"
for your VCR device and it says advanced code 215 is for the "Input"
function.

In step 4, you should press the VCR button.
In step 5, you should press "P" (the green P button in top left)
followed by 215
In step 6, you should press the VCR button
In step 7, you should press TV/Video button

Again, I'm assuming you are using VCR button for your device. If you
are using something else, modify the instructions appropriately.

So is $15 the cheapest I'm going to find for a JP1 cable?

Any of you guys who've made these interfaces comment on why go with one over the other? From Rob's page:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/hardware.shtml

The simple design by tommy tyler looks to be very simple an could be done with parts I think I have around the house. (well, maybe not the clip).

I'm just curious why go with more complex designs if they aren't needed. I guess that's the reall question, why would the more complex ones be needed?

Basically if the simple design works go with it. Sometimes the voltage
levels will not be quite right, more often on laptops than desktops, and
the ultra design might be better in that case.

If you don't have the Revision 5 simple plans dated 11-26-2002 make sure you go to the yahoo jp1 group and download the updated plans..some changes include using 1k 1/4w resisters instead of the 10k ones....plans were also "cleaned up"

A big thank you to the Robman who helped me with a shift key move that didn't seem to work. I'll repeat it here in case anyone else runs into the same problem - If you do a key move and assign it to a number key, you have to press the "shift" key twice and then the number for the key press to work. I assigned the 5 input selections on my TV to number keys 1-5. So now I press the "P" button twice and then the number button to shift the input. Works great! Thanks, Robman (Your remote is in the mail)

In the LA area, picked up a remote at the RS at 18th & La Cienega; they have two left. A clerk at another RS was able to run an area-wide inventory check and tell me which stores had the remote.

And the reason you need to press "P" twice to initiate the shift is because
if you press "P" once followed by 3 digits, you asking the remote to send
the IR function corresponding to the 3 digit EFC.

For example if you had showstopper device as listed here:
http://hifi-remote.com/cgi-bin2/ueic.cgi?PVR_0616

and you didn't have CA bound to any button, you could just press
"P" 0 5 7 and the remote would send CA toggle.

To override this behavior you would press "P" twice at which point the
next digit would be treated as a shifted button rather than the beginning
of a 3 digit EFC.

For buttons other than 0-9, you can just press "P" once to initiate the
shift.

I believe this behavior is just for the stock remote. Running Extender2,
you can press "P" once for all the buttons.

I would love it if my Bedroom and den TV's had input select without cycling thru all of them. I will have to get the model numbers (both Toshiba) and see.

Just called Radio Shack. They lost my name and the other store never sent the remotes...but the manager went there and picked them up and was glad I called back. I am on my way to pick up 2 of them!

See this post about how to figure out if your device has discretes.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1744

Many times you can simulate discrete inputs by creating a macro to
change to ch2, then the appropriate # of input toggles.

Some TVs will switch cycle through the inputs of you change to ch2 then
use ch-

It is possible your TV may just support native discrete input select even
if the original remote doesn't have the ability to emit the proper IR for
discrete input selection.

Either simulated discrete input or native discrete input is critical for
achieving 1-button whole device group ON. Also discrete power on/off
is needed (either native or toadtog simulated)

mp3 guy, many toshibas only cycle through, even when there were shortcuts the sets seemed very picky about those. Most of the times they are macros to do input button presses quickly.

Thanks Jeff. I will look.

Yup, you decoded my name...san being 3. After 45 trips over there, I picked up something. :-)

OH, scored my 2 remotes...also had the X10 desk 4 button switches on sale for $5.99. We can always use those. Hard to get out of there as you have to explain that you do not need any stinkin batterys!

Take care...
Dave

So, I've looked over in the yahoo group and I think there's hope, but I'll ask here in case anyone else is in the same situation. I didn't see Onkyo listed as a receiver option. The yahoo group has a couple models. I'm curious does this just mean I'll have to "learn" all the actions I want or is there hope that some of this stuff is in there?

You should be able to control your Onkyo w/o learning.

To have full control of all functions you'll likely need to use a custom
device upgrade as Onkyo has a habit of using different subdevices
within the same remote. There are Onkyo device upgrades that
other people have put together in the Yahoo JP1 file repository.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/fi...20Codes/Audio/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/fi...evice%20Codes/

Learning should be absolute last resort and I don't think it should be
necessary for Onkyo.

Well, I tried the first and it is OK, except the RF unit causes the TV to mute for a few seconds several times a minute. It has to be away from the TV. Will try 2nd unit now. Have not played yet with keys but the PVR_0616 page shows that recall is Jump. I do not see a recall. Also need to add 084 replay guide. How could they not have done that?

Need to play so Volume controls TV no matter whice device I am on.

Also, my 2 packages were opened before, but seem OK.

EDTI...One bad...very dimm backlight. flickers at times, too. That package did not have the RF unit opened...now I know why, they did not get that far.

sfhub, yeah I had been looking around there. Gave me the idea it "could" be done, but it didn't explain if those were created by learning or by preprogrammed sets. I'll have to play with it for a while. Now I just need to find time to make all this stuff work. =)

Good thing I have a db-25 adapter all wired up for something else. I can mod that as the old use isn't needed anymore.

None of those on the yahoo jp1 devices folder are "learned" They are
all custom device upgrades. In a few days you will have the JP1 epiphany
and wonder why you ever controlled a device through learned functions.

BTW I don't believe there is a simple way to upload just the learned
functions, you need to upload the entire firmware, which makes learned
buttons even more unwieldy.

I believe "Last" is the same as "Recall" on other JP1 remotes.

I don't know why they didn't map 084 replay guide by default either.
I guess they thought once you had "Menu" you could get to everything
else, not realizing how annoying it is. Anyway, easy to solve with simple
keymove.

There is a volume lock feature which I used to make my receiver control the audio for all other modes....

Using the 0616 replay code I mapped several additional buttons including INPUT to keys on the remote. So far the remote has done EVERYTHING I can think of...I like the idea of playing around with JP1 but the first thing I will do is BACKUP my config..thats the main reason I got the jp1 cable so that if the batteries die or the remote does (I have 3 backup remotes) I can reprogram them. ;)

fame... your 2117 will hold its programming even when you remove and replace the batteries.

mpsan... (and everyone else using the RF base station for the first time)... The basestation uses an analog transformation algorithim for the RF to IR conversion that is not particularly well tuned to reduce false emissions due to background radio noise. What this means is that the base unit is almost always emitting some form of IR radiation (this can be confirmed using certain digital cameras that pickup IR, or using a free IR monitor program and a Palm Pilot).

This background radiation does interfere with certain equipment in unpredictable ways. Before I got my digital cable converter box, this noise would interfere with any IR commands to change channels -- even those emitted via the IR blaster by my Replay. So I ended up keeping the base station tucked away, or pointed backward at a wall, unless I specifically needed the RF --> IR thing, like when I listened to music on the deck.

However, a solution to this problem has been found, requiring a little bit of soldering skill. Here's the full post over at Remote Central . com , and here's a brief step-by-step:

1. *** UNPLUG *** the base station from the wall.
2. Pry off the four rubber feet on the bottom.
3. Remove the four philips screws at these locations.
4. Separate the cover and front lens.
5. The board can be lifted off the mounting bosses and flipped over to expose the bottom.
6. Replace R24. It WAS 330K. Change it to a 240K. The resistor is an 0805 sized package -- I used a 5% part. You could alternately solder a second resistor across this one, leaving R24 in place. If you do this, use a 910K resistor and solder it across R24. You can even use a leaded component, if that's more readily available.
7. Reverse the disassembly instructions 1-5 above.

I was going to ask about that. I see that 084 is replay guide. OK, but without JP1, I do not see how keymove can help.

ie: I see no way...at least from the instructions, that say how to enter a key code (other than for a whole device type) and the keymove seems to be for keys already programmed.

Am I missing something here?

Yup, got volume working fine last night...LATE! :-)

Still do not see how to add advanced code without jp1 though.

Great...I will have to check this out!