Mitsubishi 525 series - Setup/Configuration thread

let's hope we can get some information passed around...

Is there anything preventing the use of the INPUT-DTV component inputs as just a regular component (YPrPb) input like the others? From what I can see, the signaling on those inputs is the exact same as the other component inputs except that they can also be used as an RGB+HV hook up...

Very nice summary of the very long thread. Thanks.

I hooked up my PS2 to the INPUT-DTV component inputs... only thing is that you get an annoying on-screen message asking you to check power or input connections whenever you turn on/off the PS2... this message does not appear if you use the other two component hookups.

I just ordered a 52725 from a dealer here in San Diego. I was discussing getting CableCard from Adelphia -- my local cable provider, and they recommended getting a set-top box. Their reasons were both for the pay-per-view and the on-screen TV guide, but they also mentioned issues with scaling the display. Can anyone enlighten me on this? I understand that normal SD is 4:3 and HD is 16:9. Are there options in between for scaling or displaying different video content?

The salesman told me that they normally use two connections, one for the SD channels and one for the HD channels so that I would have more options for scaling my display with SD.

I have to admit I'd kind of prefer the CableCard, though. I don't use PPV, and Adelphia will still allow me to call in and order if I really want to see a movie or something. Not to mention it is $9 / month cheaper.

Can someone more intelligent than me help me out with this? Do I really need a STB with separate connections for SD and HD? Has anybody had any good experience with the CableCard?

Thanks for any input.

From my understanding of how cablecard works, that doesn't make sense... The card is just like a personalized authorization device that allows your TV tuner to descramble whatever is hooked up to the ANT-1 input. If the input is properly descrambled, then the tuner will do its job and output the signal in whatever format it was intended to be in...

I am getting my cablecard late this coming week and I will let you guys know how that goes.

Just took delivery of my 62525 this afternoon. The only component I have connected to it is my D* HDTivo (HR10-250) using the HDMI to HDMI cable supplied with the HDTivo.

I am very pleased with the picture quality however, I am not getting any sound through the TV. I have gone through the manual a few times and tried everything I can think of.

The mute button is not on; the TV speakers are set to ON; I setup the DBS in Net Command and told it to use Monolink for Video and Audio. When I switch to ANT-1 I do hear white noise through the speakers so I know they work.

My A/V receiver and speakers are not setup yet so all I have for audio is the TV.

Any suggestions to help get my Mitsu fix would be greatly appreciated.

62525 is on its way. I went with it over the HLP after much thought and deliberation.

I believe I had to set the HDTivo (HR10-250) to output through HDMI. Not sure but I also think that when you select optical digital out, it only sends it through the optical. In my case, the optical goes to my receiver and I get no sound on the TV. I can switch it back to get sound on the tv but then I loose surround. Minor PITA.

I posted this in another thread, but it might be more appropriate here.
I talked to Mits parts again to see if the SERVICE Manual was available yet. It is in CD form, but not yet in hard copy. Both are $40 direct (they don't sell through distributors). I want the hard copy because of the large folded 4 and 6 page schematic diagrams that you can't begin to read on a single PDF printed out page.
Beside $40 is way too much for a CD copy unless you are really in a hurry for it.

Mits parts #: 800-553-7278

Just what was the deal breaker against the HLP?

Cable guy is coming tomorrow to install the cablecard so I will let you know then. I am actually using a regular digital STB that only has composite out. I have it hooked up to the ANT-1 input on the TV. I want to get rid off all that and just use the cablecard.... I don't need PPV services or On Demand at all and the cable card should be just fine for me

I also posted these comments in the HLP vs. Mits DLP thread earlier:

My Decision and Why... ETC!
Over the last year I have owned 50" Sony LCD, 55" Philips LCoS (Currently) and have been researching Sammy HLP's and Mits 525 forums for over a month now and I have decided to go with the Mits 62525. Tweeter is allowing me to swap out my defective LCoS at original purchase price (thank god) for a new set. Below are my basic reasons for going with the Mits:

-All the HLP threads I have viewed are frought with people experiencing a high volume of problems: Blinking light problem, Sets dead on arrival, ballast replacements, and the customer service people were experiencing though Sammy seemed less that great, and in some cases just downright horrible.

- 525 problems seem much fewer and farther between. Plus it appears that Mits is handling these problems quite well- For the "Reset Problem" for instance, Mitsubishi sends a compact flash card to the consumer which they can use to fix/upgrade the tv themselves!

- I have compared them side by side in Tweeter and the 525 was brighter, had more features and an overall sharper picture. I was originally concerned that SD viewing on the Mits might really bring out the worst in the picture. I have had some people refer me to the HLP because of a smoother picture for this type of viewing. However, since I got an HD DVR box last week, I have watched very little SD programming and the SD programming I do watch doesn't look that bad (on a crappy snowballed, LCoS mind you) so I am not too worried.

- I am an avid X-box gamer (duh) and it definitely appears that the Mits handles X-box signals superior to the Sammy HLP's ; fast movements and pans are handled very well, and the picture on the Mits is clear, bright and striking

- While the reflective screen was a slight issue, it is probably best that I have some sort of protective screen. Whereas the Sammy's cannot be removed, I am worried about my dog and parties at my house which could bring irreparable damage to an HLP screen. Plus the Mits screen is simple to remove in a 3 step process. I also can contol my home theater ambient lighting pretty well, and it is not distracting on my reflective LCoS: Im not too worried.

-One HDMI and 2 component inputs were concerning at first but I will probably only use three inputs anyways: DVD (via HDMI; looking for DVD Player recommendations by the way), X-Box (component 1) and HD-DVR box (component 2). Plus, who knows how the firewire inputs might come into play in the future I'm hopeful.

-The Compact Flash slot is a real plus as I also maintain a Digital photography business and this is a very seamless way to display photos to clients and friends alike.

-Size and weight of Mits was a concern as I live in a one bedroom apt. However, it will fit, and I don't plan on moving into any SMALLER apt's or houses in the near future.

- I should be getting my set in the next 7 or so days so I will keep you all informed of my experience with the set and will post photos as well.

I hope this has been helpful!

The Mits DLP has 3 componet inputs, one is just labeled "DTV" but is and work as a HD componet input.

this is true...

I used the DTV input and set it up as PrYPb in netcommand...Only catch is that if you go to netcommand and try to add a DVD, Game, etc... device it will not let you use the DTV input. You must choose "other" or "DTV" as the device type and then it lets you use that input. Also, if you have that input selected and you turn your device on/off, it will show a screen message stating that you should check connections/power.

They are using the card reader as a way to do firmware updates??


That really isn't a fair comparison. Compare how long the Sammy's have been out, then compare how long this Mits has been available!

I'm not knocking the Mits, and most here know the Sammy's have had problems, but this Mits has been available only about a month now (in most areas). Way to early to tell.

Do these Mitsubishi DLPs have overscan when connected to an HTPC? I know you can't get 1:1 mapping on a Samsung without slight overscan and I want to know if Mitsu's bezel hides some of the displayable image as well.

I'm looking to purchase either an HLP or the 725 and it will be used half the time as my main computer's monitor. I was really looking forward to the Samsung due to the 2 DVI inputs. These only have 1, however they have a standard VGA port. To my understanding, the image is not as sharp via this port as it would be through a DVI connection.

I know you guys are just getting your sets up and running...any of you hooked up a computer to see how it looks? I was browsing the HTPC forum here, however these new Mitsus haven't made it over there yet.

Thanks in advance!

Yes, someone else posted info about Mits sending them a Compact Flash card to do Firmware upgrades (for the reset issue I believe).

I was strictly comparing the HLP and the Mits, of which neither have been out for more than a month or two (I was not taking into account HLN models in my judgements). Also with Sammy producing DLPs for the last 2-3 (?) years, I was suprised they would come out with a new model with so many issues.

That's slick, though not as slick as the color bar generator built in!

That gave me a 'woody'!

Yeah, I was playing with that color bar when I was last at Tweeter. Pretty tight I must say!

I wish it covered a larger area. Love to see that on a vetroscope.

IMO, the VGA connection looks great on this set. DVI on newer TVs is not for computer video anyway. (Read the manual on any of the newer sets.) They are all coming with HDMI now, which messes with being able to get computer resolutions across.

As far as the Mitsu goes, you have three format options when hooking up a HTPC to this set. 720p Standard, 720p Reduce 1, and 720p Reduce 2. The reduce 1 setting works best for no overscan (very, very slightly underscanned), but it scales the 720p signal down a bit, so text is not as clear as under the standard setting. The standard setting has a lot of overscan, though, so it doesn't work well for standard computer stuff (browsing, etc.) Don't get me wrong, text is not bad at the reduce 1 setting. It's quite viewable, especially if you aren't too close to the set. But it is definitely softer than at the standard setting.

I have been able to tweak the timings in Powerstrip to get rid of all the horizontal overscan on the un-scaled standard setting, but I can only get about halfway where I need to be to get rid of vertical overscan. The reason for this is the set thinks the signal switches to an XGA signal 1024x768 (4:3) once I get too far out of standard 720p timing. 720 pixels is just too close to 768 pixels, not giving me enough room for front and back porch adjustments before the set changes formats on me.

This really sucks, as the text quality is truly gorgeous when viewed at the standard setting. At first, I thought that the horizontal timing fix I was able to accomplish would be perfect for watching DVDs, as with most anamorphic DVD movies, there are thin black bars at the top and bottom anyway, so I didn't care that the vertical overscan was still present. It turns out, for DVD video quality, it really doesn't make a difference whether you use the standard or reduce 1 settings, as the video is already scaled from standard DVD resolution, anyway. Even scaled, I put the PQ out of the HTPC up there with the best DVI DVD players around.

Hey thanks for the reply! Keep us updated on how it turns out. The ability of either this Mitsu or the Sammy as a PC monitor will be my deciding factor. I'm sure either one will do the TV end of things just fine.

Can you post up some screen shots of how it looks?

rtmoore4

I'm disappointed to hear that you weren't able to use powerstrip to make the unscaled format work properly. I am connecting my pc to the Mits next week and was hoping to display the highest resolution possible, but it looks like the reduce 1 setting is going to be it for now. I'm wondering if there might be something in the service menu that would force the set to recognize the custom settings as standard 720p, but this may be wishful thinking.

Delar,

Your resolution can still be set to 1280x720x60Hz. The image is just going to be scaled down slightly if you use the 720p Reduce 1 setting.

Play around with Powerstrip a little and see if you can figure out the vertical overscan issue. Post your settings if you can!

rtmoore4:

i don't have my set yet, but i noticed an illustration in the mits manual ("pc display formats" p. 80) that the full 1280x720p setting will cause slight vertical stretching as well as overscan. it looks like even the "reduce 2" setting has slight vertical stretching.

have you noticed the vertical stretching? if so, i guess resizing the screen to fit would still give a stretched image.

thanks.

Anybody got NetCommand working for recording?

Is this how it's supposed to work....?

The TV's IR blasters will control your STB (optional) and your recording device (VCR, DVR). The TV timer wakes the TV up and turns on the other units. Either the TV's tuner changes to the channel you want to record, or it turns the STB to the channel you want to record. The TV sets up the proper input selections on the components and then IR blasts the "record" transport control to the recording device. When the timer expires, the TV IR blasts the "stop" transport control to the recording device, and finally IR blasts a power-off to all the components.

Have I got this correct? If so, has anyone tried to use this to record an HD channel to a standard VCR? I would think the TV can create SVIDEO to the VCR, right?

Even though the TV timer is doing all this, I should be able to use the TV while it's recording, right? For example, if I'm using the STB tuner for recording, I should be able to watch any TV station I want using the TV's tuner, right?

Actually, there doesn't appear to be ANY svideo output on the back of the TV...only a composite video and L/R audio. Kind of a bummer if you ask me...seems like an obvious oversight by Mits.

With regard to the other recording stuff - I just use Netcommand for the switching stuff - not recording - yet.

Thanks,
Jeff