Official Sanyo HT32744/HT30744 thread - Page 8

Didn't we all said that it would be a two-year warranty on this TV instead? And does anyone else have an idea as to how I may be able to fix the hump distortion in the middle of the lower half of the TV?

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Okay. Thanks TH3. If anything ever comes across your rada on the issue, please let me know. I can help out with quite a lot of geometric distortion problems, too, so don't hesitate to send people my way if you are too inundated with email-calls-for-help.

has anyone tried using a DVI->HDMI cable with a HTPC? i've been thinking about just making a HTPC w/ HDTV so i can record shows and upscale dvd movies to this TV...

but i've been reading that some (all?) HDMI capable tv's shouldn't be hooked up via a DVI->HDMI cable because they are simply not made for connections to computers... anyone know more about this subject?

thanks!

im interested in DVI->HDMI myself as I assumed this would be the best quality. Finger11, what did you hear exactly? Wouldnt hurt the tv or computer in any way hope!

HDMI doens't produce better PQ than Component cables, merely equal. Some have found component cables actually produce a superior picture.

Well I purchased a new Progressive scan dvd player, Samsung DVD-P241,

I hooked it up through component video and the picture is pink. All of the connections are tight. I switched to just the RCA video out and it looks fine. My old DVD was a non progressive one, and it had component video with no problems.

Any idea? Think there is something in the DVD player sevice menu, I would need to adjust?

I'd make sure the DVD player has the output setting set correctly. Make sure it is set to component or whatever Samsung may call it in the menu.

so it doesn't matter that HDMI/DVI is pure digital while component isnt? i thought i read you can't do HD resolutions w/ component... then again i just started into all this HDTV stuff so i very well could be completely off.

i'm pretty much going on what everyone else is saying here.

but i read that HDMI wasn't made for pc -> here

http://forums.snapstream.com/vb/arch...p/t-16782.html

" have a sony HDTV and tried to hook my HTPC to it via DVI, it clearly states in the manual that the DVI/HDMI socket is not made for personal computers which is correct. I did get a picture from my FX5200 but it was so badly overscanned I could not see a lot of the screen, in the end I changed the vid card to a 9800 Pro and used the ATI Component Dongle and it all worked perfectly."

but if you can do upscaling/HD resolutions with component, and have a ATI card, that dongle is the way to go??
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this is really intriguing me as im gonna have an extra radeon vid card/cpu/mobo i could dedicate as a HTPC and use as a tivo/dvd player.. and if i used the component input on my tv, i would pretty much waste the HDMI port ... gaaah ... i dunon what to do.(if you have a HTPC with a regular sound card, you wouldnt get optical audio out either.. just analog of s/pdif or whatever kind of output that is...

i probably sound like an idiot, but i admit i dunno much about this stuff... any advice would be appreciated! thanks

You definitly read wrong, component definitly does support high definition

ya... but its analog not digital

The only thing that is different from component inputs and HDMI inputs is that HDMI carries full digital sound with the same connection. I have yet to see a better image created between the DVI-HDMI and component inputs significant enough to warrant a change.

As for the fellow with the component inputs giving pink colors: Check to make sure that you have the right order when plugging in the three jacks (red on bottom, blue in the middle, and green on top). If you are color-blind, get a female to help you out. No insult intended. Just trying to help out.

HDMI in theory should look better because it avoids a digital to analog conversion required for analog component connections. In reality - no notable diff for most.

OK, I was about ready to say that DVI and HDMI ARE better than Component Video.

I was even going to post an article to prove my point!

And I DO still think than an all digital connection is prefered, (Component Video is analog) based on all the posts that I have read.

However, before posting I re-read the article, and sure enough, component video DOES support HD, up to 1080i.

Here is a quote from the above mentioned article:

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Can I watch HDTV without a DVI connection on my projector?
Yes. Using a component video (YPbPr analog) input you can still watch HDTV content. If the video source (DVD player or cable box) is able, you can watch video as high as 1080i with this type of connection. The primary difference between the two types of connections is that component video will be a converted analog signal rather than a pure digital signal.

A high-definition analog signal still looks immensely better than a regular analog broadcast signal. Particularly when viewed on a large screen. In some cases, an analog image will often look as good (and sometimes better) than a digital signal.
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Here is another good article about DVI, HDMI, HDCP, and other connections

So, I guess the end result, is if you have DVI or HDMI, use it, and you will have a pure digital connection to your monitor.

If you do not have DVI or HDMI, and you have a high end DVD player, know that the component video cable connection, while analog, is delivering ALL the video to your monitor, up to 1080i.

I would think that cable quality, (and cost) would be less with DVI and HDMI, as it is digital, and it either does or does not work, whereas with Component, cable quality IS an issue, and of course, can be very expensive.

Of course, as with any cable, a well made cable is better than a cheaply made cable, as kinks and breaks and damage can occur to any cheap cable, analog or digial, and cause it to not work, so it is prudent to get a well made cable, but again, the cable will either work or not work, there will be no "better picture" if you get a cable made by virgin nymphs at midnight, using 99.999999% pure dilithium, found on an astroid and hidden in area 51!

the article in your 2nd link states that there is a "night and day difference in PQ when we switch from component to DVI (or HDMI) connections" ... so what gives?

I bought the same DVD player for my 30" Sanyo and got the same pink screen. The P241 ships w/ S-Video selected as the default output; in the setup menu, you need to change the display setting to "525p". This should correct the problem. I'm quite pleased by the P241's performance thus far.

I purchased the Sammy P241 after I hooked up my PlayStation2 and found all kinds of interference in the red band (snowing, bleeding) during DVD playback. Games still run fine, so IMO it's an issue w/ either the PS2's DVD software, decoding hardware. So, couple that interference w/ being unable to adjust the PS2's DVD software from 4:3 Letterbox to 16:9, and all signs point to a new DVD player. Go ahead and twist my arm.


I'm a long time lurker, first time poster, and I want to thank everyone who contributed to these Sanyo threads. The information and feedback you've provided has been a great help.

I had been eyeing the HT30744 since I read the first thread back in June, and I finally took the plunge on this past Labor Day, and I couldn't be happier....unless, of course, I had $4000 to drop on a DLP, but... Regular cable channels look surprisingly good. Wasn't able to pull in any digital cable channels, but I'm able to receive ABC, NBC, Fox, & UPN OTA, and viewing football in HD is justification enough. Lowering the contrast and adjusting the other display settings to the rough percentages posted earlier works and looks great.

Only picture flaws: a slight pincushion on 4:3 material that I'll correct once I work up the courage to open the service menu. A slight tilt that I only notice when there's a news ticker running and I'm watching in "Zoom 1", and if I can't correct it, it's not a deal breaker. I've noticed the barrel roll on the sides as well, but I had to really look for it, and I only noticed during a fast panning shot on Monday Night Football.

Thanks again, guys.

You are correct!

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The most important lesson I've learned in 6 months of owning a Samsung DLP TV and few weeks of Bravo D1 player is that analog Component connections are history and digital DVI connections are the only way forward. There is a night and day difference in Picture Quality when we switch from Component to DVI connections. As we move towards all things digital:

Digital PQ Nirvana = Digital Signal -> Digital DVI Connection -> Digital Display
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I would think that this person's personal experience says that he prefers the digital connection.

I think that this is where I get my attitude that DVI or HDMI is prefered to component video.

I know that right now, I HAVE to use Component video, as that is all my DVD player has, but I am going to purchase a new DVD that has a DVI or HDMI output very soon!

I think the original discussion was that Component video does or does not do HD video.

Everyone can do what they want, I am choosing the digital route.

Wal-Mart will not even match OTHER WAL-MART's price!

This was my personal experience Sunday, as my Wal-mart still has the Sanyo for 797, but 10 miles down the road, another Super Wal-mart has the Sanyo for 697. Spent a half an hour while the clerk checked with the manager, and he stood firm on the 797 price.

My TV was purchased three weeks ago.

Oh, I have to say, I LOVE my TV, and WAS happy with the price, just a little miffed that they lowered their price even further, yet I cannot get a refund without hauling the set back and purching it at another store!

It is TOO HEAVY to do that!

yea... the other thing was i was trying to see if i could/should use DVI->HDMI wire to output from my computer's video card to the TV or use component with ATI's Dongle thingie they got...

but like i posted earlier, someone says comp output -> HDMI on TV is bad and i'm pretty sure i read it shouldn't be done if the TV doesn't support 720p natively

anyone have a firmer grasp on this?
thanks

I have my HTPC connected to my Sanyo 32" 4:3 HDTV via a DVI-to-HDMI cable. I'm using a Mad Dog (GeForce) FX5200 AGP video card. I was using the official NVIDIA 61.77 drivers, but now I am using the 66.00 beta drivers. With the 66.00 drivers, there's a setting that you can adjust to get rid of most overscan that you would get with their official drivers. I lost about 15% of the screen with the official drivers, but got most of that back with the beta drivers. The problem that I'm having now is that my all my HTPC software apps, like Meedio & WinDVD, think that they are using a widescreen resolution, so they end up stretching everything vertically so that everything looks skinny. I've been basically getting a 720p output; haven't been able to get 1080i. Here's the thread that I started last week:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=443897

Anyway, I think I have to be brave & delve into the world of Powerstrip to fix my problem. Anyone here with a Sanyo 32" that has successfully removed overscan with Powerstrip? You help would be greatly appreciated.

Despite the issues I stated, the DVI/HDMI connection looks fantastic. It also frees up another component input on my HDTV should I ever need it.

Thanks,
jawgee

Going from Comp out to HDMI is going from digital to analog back to digital. Of course there would be problems with this.

DVI is equal (for video) to HDMI (Still all digital) so just get a DVI to HDMI cable.

Straight pure digital from the source to the monitor.

Here is a THREAD that discusses this is way greater detail than I needed!

Here's a trick, just transfer a tv from one to another. If you have a truck, buy a new sanyo at the walmart with it at 697, have their stockmen load it up for you, drive to the store that sells it for 797, have the other stores stockmen unload it, use your old receipt, and return that tv for 797. Then keep the new receipt for your tv you have at home. Another plus of doing this, you don't have to pack up your current tv, plus it also moves the purchase date up from your old receipt. I don't think you'll have any problems doing that, but I'm not sure if our system tracks the serial numbers of sanyo tvs. To find out, look at your receipt. If there are two lines for the tv, one with the upc and the other with the serial, then this plan wont work.

I take it these sets are in short supply? I've called 4 DFW area Wal-marts so far and am unable to locate one.

Guess my search continues.

GrayMatter
I bought the 4:3 32" for my wife a couple of months ago at the Grapevine store off of grapevine hwy. Johnathan

So do these Sanyos support 720p natively or not? Is there any way to find out for sure I have a Motorola Comcast HD box and when I set it to display only 1080i or 720p I don't notice any difference. So there's one of 2 things going on here...

1. The TV upconverts to 1080i so when I set my STB to 720p the TV upconverts to 1080i and when I set it to 1080i it just displays 1080i.
2. I just can't notice the difference between 720p and 1080i.

Well, according to Sanyo it does...though I, and many others, are still doubtful. So do this: email Sanyo and ask them. We'll see if we get a different answer.

I found this TV at one walmart and bought the 32 inch for 699.

I have connected an APEX 2600 DVD Player (Component), XBOX w/ Samsung DVD Drive (Component), and RF Antenna (Digital Antenna Input). I get about 10-15 digital channels, ABC, CBS, FOX, etc. All of them work fine and display really well. Some display in 720p and some display in 1080i, and there is a noticeable difference (sharpness). I know how they are displaying because I press the info button on the TV and it says either 1920x1080 or 1280x720. There are no apparent problems with the antenna, dvd, or xbox.

I bought the TV after reading this thread, and its a great value.

Wal-Mart #6 that I called had the TV and I was able to run down and get it .

Apparently the Wal-Marts can't tell what is in stock in other stores. I had a person at the 3rd Wal-Mart I called tell me that this TV wasn't in any Wal-Marts in the North Dallas area, I'm glad he was wrong.

So has anyone had any luck exchanging sets to get the new price inside the 90 day policy without a physical exchange of the set? (using the old receipt to return new set rather than physically returning the first set)