The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread - Page 51

Each input has it's own settings. If you save your settings when calibrating you have to do it for each input you use. You could copy the settings and use it as a starting point but you will most likely have to tweak them anyway.

How do I get the TV Guide to stop coming up every time I turn on the TV? I don't use it.

I was just about to ask the same question. I have the Tv Guide coming up every time I turn on the TV too.

hey edgore how do you llike the nvidia 6600? Which model did you get and how do you have it hooked up? I was loooking to purchasing the 6600gt with the hd component outbox since our hdmi slots on our tv's are a huge disappointment. I'm wondering if the hd output is better on the nvidia cards or ati...

Also wondering if anyone has the motorola signal booster working with directv satellite... I bought the thing not knowing that it only boosts my cable line and will not work with Satellite. Then i've seen on other posts or other boards where people have got it working. I tried and tried but coudn't get the satellite to pick up any signal with the booster plugged in. Fyi my setup is as follows cable line coming from the direct tv sat. to the booster, then out fromt he booster is going directly to my hd rca210 receiver, which i have hooked up through component. Am i hooking this up wrong or is it just not possible to do....

Toshiba 46HM84 for less than 2,100 @ ecost.com

In the "general defaults" section of the setup menu there is a box for auto-on. Change it to "off"

Thanks! I hadn't seen that section before!

After two months and 4 service visits, (the last scalar replacement increased ghosting issue), Toshiba finally replaced my TV yesterday. The ghosting still exists but the sharpness adjustment has more improvement in the ghosting problem with the new TV. When I reduced the sharpness to 20 (I used to set my previous one to 0), my PC inputs via HDMI are very readable. The DVD playback (720P) from my PC is much better than DVD player component playback (420P). I could now use the TV to view web pages with reasonable clearness at 10' away. I shall buy the Samsung HD941 and enjoy the crispy DVD playback.

In the last two months, I haven't seen any 62" Toshiba DLP at retail store with no ghosting. From the block diagram of the TV design posted in this thread, I guess Toshiba had used their prior analog projection technology and converts the analog output to DLP at the final stage. So the HDMI doesn't feed directly to the DLP engine digitally and the scalar card has introduced analog delays (ghosting). The Mit DPL has similar issue. It is my guess and I am not EE.

The default setting of the new TV is generally darker and the sharpness adjustment has more impact in the ghosting. The manufacturing date is Jan 2005 (my old one was Nov 2004). I think the two TV is basically the same, but the default adjustment might be different. The service menu might has some adjustment to reduce the sharpness further.

I would prefer no ghosting with sharpness set to 50, but I am very happy with the TV now for both component and HDMI inputs. I wish all of you would eventually resolve your issues.

KC38,

How did you get Toshiba to come out, did you just complain about ghosting over HDMI?

Your post agrees with my observations as well. My HDMI does not look better than component from my Denon 3910, and the picture gets worse with ringing(ghosting) as you go from 480p to 720p to 1080i over HDMI.

After reading this thread since about page 40, I finally went ahead and a picked up a 52hm84 and matching stand. This was based on the contributions from many people here on this forum - so thanks for helping me figure out the best TV for my needs.

Just got it hooked up last night, I'm already enjoying myself and I haven't even done more than toss a DVD in. Tonite I'll learn how to set it up with the Avia disc and see how my settings compare to several others' that have been posted. My DVD player is a progressive-scan Sony from a few years back. Guess I'll have to do a little experimenting to see if I should set it to "progressive" or leave it interlaced and have the Toshiba do the upconversion? Do I have to set the Toshiba up specifically for this, or is it automatic? Time to sit down with the manual!

So what 'view mode' do I use when doing an Avia setup - the mode I am most likely to watch DVD's with?

FWIW, I ended up printing off a BB price for TV and stand, getting a price match plus 10% of difference, and the 10% cash rebate from Sears that was based off the full Sears MSRP. Seemed like a good deal to me, although I'm still a little torn about the 3YR EW I bought. Guess I've got about 11months to evaluate it and return if I don't want it, according to the EW customer service reps.

Thanks for all the great info, probably many questions coming up as I learn how to optimize my first really big TV!

Sean

I'll just take a stab at a couple of these...

So what 'view mode' do I use when doing an Avia setup - the mode I am most likely to watch DVD's with?

Set it to Natural. When doing some tests, esp. sharpness, you don't want to have the image stretched at all.

My DVD player is a progressive-scan Sony from a few years back. Guess I'll have to do a little experimenting to see if I should set it to "progressive" or leave it interlaced and have the Toshiba do the upconversion? Do I have to set the Toshiba up specifically for this, or is it automatic?

Definitely set the DVD player to progressive. You won't need to do anything with the Toshiba, per se - it will detect the input and do its thing automatically.

Have fun and good luck!

Hey folks - first off, let me say thanks for all the great info! It's led me to purchase a Toshiba 52HM84 and I'm very, very pleased. That said, a month into usage I'm seeing a faint white glow/dot (looks like a reflection of a light bulb), that unfortunately stuck around even after I turned off all the lights. It's only noticeable when that small part of the screen (in the middle, just above center) has a very dark background, and like I said - it's very, very faint. Any ideas/comments/suggestions?

Thanks again, folks!
Dave

Here are links to the service manual and schematics for the 52 & 62HMX94. They are large pdf files so I hosted them on my own site for now. If anyone can host them on a better server please feel free.

Service manual 7.54M:
http://www.angelfire.com/md/jeffrich...62HMX94SVM.pdf

Schematic 3.98M:
http://www.angelfire.com/md/jeffrich..._62HMX94CD.pdf


Please post back any useful info learned from these, such as changing the grey sidebars to black.



Jeff

I have it too, but I figured it was just my overhead light doing it, because it went away when I shut that light off and only used one way at the back of the room. But now you have me second guessing the source. My Tv is only a week old, can someone with more experience comment if this is just the Tv reflecting room light or if it's something that becomes exasperated over time?

Jeff:

Great info to have. Nice work. Unfortunately, The Gray Sidebar issue cannot be resolved via Service Menu Mode. That info, I fear, may be buried in Designer Mode, which isn't in the Service Manual. I'm not even sure that Designer Mode exists for this set or if there is a field adjustment for the bars. To date, all efforts to locate this parameter have resulted in NOTHING.

Perhaps you can go back to your source and request a deeper dig into the vault. Thanks much for what you've found.

First post from a longtime lurker...

I too would like to know how to change the grey sidebars to black in my 52HMX94. Although I could do this by changing the settings in my cablebox/DVR (Cablevision 8300HD DVR), I would like to do this permanently within the TV's settings instead.

Jeff,

Great info, thanks for posting this!

It came from Toshiba's service website, which I found I could access through sources at work. There was no info on a "Designer Mode". I will check back there periodically when I have the chance to see if any additional info is available. The only other things I found were a couple of service bulletins. One was related to the "84" models' clocks losing time. Another described the procedure for DMD Bias alignment and color wheel delay adjustments after replacing the light engine, and the last one was about "Loss of either or any combination of Red, Green or Blue Video. Possible digitized picture with bars and/or lines in the picture. Problem may be intermittent" and related to a copper tape shield on a cable assembly to the light engine on the 46HM84 and 52HM84.
The first and last one are small pdf files so I should be able to post them here for anyone who may encounter these problems. Might help avoid multiple service calls. The second one is a larger file and just basically repeats what is in the service manual so I don't think it's necessary to post that one.


Jeff

P.S. Still no TV Guide listings and I have the cable company coming to install the CableCard this morning.

Here is the service bulletin regarding clock losing time on the "84" models.


Jeff

 

dlp200401 technical bulletin.pdf 196.7939453125k . file

Here is the other service bulletin I mentioned.


Jeff

 

dlp200403 technical bulletin.pdf 180.5283203125k . file

I have the 6600gt, and it looks great. I can't tell you how it compates to the ATI, since I haven't used one, but I can tell you that the 6600gt looks wonderful.

I am using a Monster Home Theater surge protector which has about a million socckts - all of which are being used. I'm a little concerned that maybe the problem is an overloaded outlet. The two plugs on the wallpalte are currently supporting:

The TV*
The HTPC*
2 USB TV tuners*
2 DTV Satellite boxes*
An Xbox
A PS2
A GameCube
A VCR

All of the items marked with * are typically on at the same time.

I'm wondering if maybe it would help if I got a new circuit installed just for the TV. I never had any problems having all that stuff hooked up with my old Panasonic 51" CRT rear projection TV.

My local authorized service center sent a total yokel last week to replace the lens screen on my 52HM84. (He literally said, "Wow, you have one of them newfangled ones.") He didn't know what he was doing... he ended up with the TV in about a dozen pieces on my carpet. The first time he reassembled it, it didn't work. I couldn't bear to watch anymore, so I left the room. When I came back, the TV was working, but he had broken off a piece of the foam "wing" on the matching TV stand, and drilled screws through the front of the speaker grill (now I have four holes in the right speaker grill), and I noticed the other day there is a long hair (my own) stuck behind the screen that you can see when the TV is on. It's soooooo annoying.

Anyway, they are going to replace the face of the TV and remove the hair. I have decided to just live with the broken stand, because the damage is on the side and not very noticeable. But I think there is another, more serious problem - I don't think the fan is working anymore. I have only had the TV for a few weeks so I can't be sure, but I could've sworn that before, when I turned off the TV, I could still hear the fan running. After a couple minutes, it would get louder for like two seconds, then shut off completely. Now I can't hear the fan running anymore, although I still hear the last part where something gets louder and seems to shut off.

Can you hear your fan running when the TV is off? Or is it basically quiet until that last part?

I definitely need to make an appointment with another service center to double-check the "work" that has been done.

Can you hear your fan running when the TV is off? Or is it basically quiet until that last part?

I always hear the fan at "full volume" for several minutes after. But I have my Tosh set up for "quick turn on after shut off," which basically leaves the TV fully powered up for a few minutes. I don't know what I would hear if I turned off that feature - maybe that's the difference?

The ghosting is not only a HDMI issue. The HDMI sharpness is set higher than component inputs so it is more noticeable.

After 4 service visit; opening and closing of my TV, it would cost less to replace the TV.

So I guess they agreed to work your ghosting problem until you were satisfied?

Surprised they didn't say 'this is how it is works, sorry...'

I noticed a Genesis chip on the DMD board in the service bulletins posted by whjeffs. May be that is one of the reasons why this TV's picture is one of the best for both SD and HD.

Hi Sharonf and everyone:

Take a look at this baby:

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...=LS&dcaid=1688

It has 1440W capacity (450W battery backup), coax and phone connections, and it's specially designed for home theaters. Oh yeah, you're equipment will appreciate this beauty...specially your Toshiba.

What I recommend is that at least the TV be connected to a UPS, this way the fan cycle won't be interrupted during a power failure.

Does the Monster has voltage regulation? It's a very important feature during brownouts. Check the model from Tripp- Lite that I posted.

Ok... get this.

I went into service mode on my TV and the first 3 settings. RCUT, GCUT and BCUT are different then the defaults in the manual. Mine are all set to 60H instead of the default 80H.

Could someone else check their TV to see what it has for defaults. I have the 52HMX94 and have not changed any of the settings.

Thanks