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The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread - Page 65

post #1921 of 8197
Don't mean to sound like a broken record. I posted this in the main thread and didn't get reply. Hope I can get some response here.
I got my 52HM84 since Thanksgiving, love it. I am looking for a region-free upconverting dvd player. My choices are down to Momitsu V880DX and Oppo DV971H. I did read the main threads for both players and searched for any comparison. Most people seem to like 971 over the 880. Is there any member here has tested both the 880DX or 971 on HM/HMX? I think Rudy1 has had the 971. Can you elaborate on the "objectionable in the performance" on the 971?
The player will connect to HDMI on the 52HM84. I am current using the component on the HM with a Denon in 480p. After calibration with DVE, PQ is quite good already. But I notice some MB issues on some sources (Gladiator, RoTK EE, etc). That kind of bugs me. MB, shimmering and Y/C delay are my major concerns on the 971. Should I consider having 480p or 720p on component just in case I have the infamous ghosted HDMI on the HM? The downside of the V880 is the "softness" of the picture(due to high freq roll-off? Even on DVI?).
Any comments/ suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
post #1922 of 8197
Has anyone in this forum had good success with the HDMI to DVI connection with a Dish 811/921 and the Toshiba HM/HMX series televisions? Is the picture any better or worse in comparison to component?
post #1923 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by TReX8
Don't mean to sound like a broken record. I posted this in the main thread and didn't get reply. Hope I can get some response here.
I got my 52HM84 since Thanksgiving, love it. I am looking for a region-free upconverting dvd player. My choices are down to Momitsu V880DX and Oppo DV971H. I did read the main threads for both players and searched for any comparison. Most people seem to like 971 over the 880. Is there any member here has tested both the 880DX or 971 on HM/HMX? I think Rudy1 has had the 971. Can you elaborate on the "objectionable in the performance" on the 971?
The player will connect to HDMI on the 52HM84. I am current using the component on the HM with a Denon in 480p. After calibration with DVE, PQ is quite good already. But I notice some MB issues on some sources (Gladiator, RoTK EE, etc). That kind of bugs me. MB, shimmering and Y/C delay are my major concerns on the 971. Should I consider having 480p or 720p on component just in case I have the infamous ghosted HDMI on the HM? The downside of the V880 is the "softness" of the picture(due to high freq roll-off? Even on DVI?).
Any comments/ suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

All players (regardless of cost) with the Faroudja 2301 & 2310 chips reportedly exhibit some degree of MB. I did not like the Y/C delay problem on the Oppo, I thought the PQ on the Toshiba DVD/VCR combo was underwhelming, and the MB on the Denon 2910 was too distracting to ignore at that particular price point. If the set had a 3rd component video input, I would've stuck with the Zenith DVB318....I need the existing 2 component video inputs for my OTA and cable DVRs.
post #1924 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by Julio Bro!
Could it be an option for people that won't get HD channels yet?

The only benefit I could see is for someone who has a really crappy scaler in their TV or STB.
post #1925 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by bigdaddy10
Has anyone in this forum had good success with the HDMI to DVI connection with a Dish 811/921 and the Toshiba HM/HMX series televisions? Is the picture any better or worse in comparison to component?

I have a 921. HDMI to DVI looks fine--can't really see a difference vs. component..both look great. I've connected direct using an HDMI to DVI cable as well as pass-through using a Zektor DVI switcher and see no difference. Very satisfied with this set!
post #1926 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by --Sclaws
I have a 921. HDMI to DVI looks fine--can't really see a difference vs. component..both look great. I've connected direct using an HDMI to DVI cable as well as pass-through using a Zektor DVI switcher and see no difference. Very satisfied with this set!


Thank you,

I'm trying to decide if I want to pay the extra $$$$ for the HDMI to DVI cable.
post #1927 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by kdog044
The only benefit I could see is for someone who has a really crappy scaler in their TV or STB.

Well, we still don't have HD STBs and VCRs don't upscale, a simple unit could be nice for my A/V receiver's S-Video output.

You know of simple units like the Zinwell BriteView?
post #1928 of 8197
Hi All,

I have my 62HM94 for about a week ..evrything so far seems ok(touchwood) however I see the set having a tilt probelem(which is what I believe its called)

The top left edge of the picture is shfted to the right by about 0.2 inch and that tilt builds up gradually from the bottom left.

Its noticeable in some cases where there is a gap of about 0.2inch between the left topedge of the picture and the frame that slowly disappears as you traverse down the left edge top to bottom.

Also noticeable in tickers where as you move along horizontally more and more of the ticker gets cut off.

Any of you folks have this problem ...?

Any help would be great and your advice on whether to call it in to Toshiba would be great.
post #1929 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by bigdaddy10
Thank you,

I'm trying to decide if I want to pay the extra $$$$ for the HDMI to DVI cable.

No problem. I use component as the default input for now (no real reason). Whenever HD-DVD pops up (or I add more DVI/HDMI hardware) I'll change it over to all run thru the HDMI input via the DVI switcher.
post #1930 of 8197
I have a 52HMX94 and am having cablecard problems.
Cable company is Time Warner, cablecard is made by Scientific Atlanta.

Have tried two different cards so far.
Symptom is card works ok, then after a random interval of time it looses all digital channels, both over the air and cable digital. Both OTA and cable analog channels work ok.
After cable card is removed and re-inserted, the card re-acquires channel list, then works ok for a while and repeats the problem after a random time.
It fails most often after the TV has been turned off, but it will fail when it is turned on as well. Shows up when you try and change channel, then screen is blank on all digital channels.

Cablecard CP status shows "no ECMs found". Otherwise status looks ok.

Anyone else having similar problems?

Gary
post #1931 of 8197
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi All,

I have my 62HM94 for about a week ..evrything so far seems ok(touchwood) however I see the set having a tilt probelem(which is what I believe its called)

The top left edge of the picture is shfted to the right by about 0.2 inch and that tilt builds up gradually from the bottom left.

Its noticeable in some cases where there is a gap of about 0.2inch between the left topedge of the picture and the frame that slowly disappears as you traverse down the left edge top to bottom.

Also noticeable in tickers where as you move along horizontally more and more of the ticker gets cut off.

Any of you folks have this problem ...?

Any help would be great and your advice on whether to call it in to Toshiba would be great

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


In continuation of my previous post on tilt (above) ...is this a result of bowing ..because I see this only in 'Theaterwide 1'....for the other theater settings the issue is probably there but because a part of the picture gets cut off I cant see it. I have searched the forum and there are several mention of bowing of the picture.

Any input?
post #1932 of 8197
Could someone post the setting for XBOX? For reason, some xbox games such as Halo 2 looks terrible on my 52hm94.
post #1933 of 8197
I have yet to see a rear projection DLP that did NOT have this problem. It is simply the nature of the beast and the optics or electronics necessary to compensate for it would simply not be cost effective.

Tom


Quote:


Originally posted by FANTOSH
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi All,

I have my 62HM94 for about a week ..evrything so far seems ok(touchwood) however I see the set having a tilt probelem(which is what I believe its called)

The top left edge of the picture is shfted to the right by about 0.2 inch and that tilt builds up gradually from the bottom left.

Its noticeable in some cases where there is a gap of about 0.2inch between the left topedge of the picture and the frame that slowly disappears as you traverse down the left edge top to bottom.

Also noticeable in tickers where as you move along horizontally more and more of the ticker gets cut off.

Any of you folks have this problem ...?

Any help would be great and your advice on whether to call it in to Toshiba would be great

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


In continuation of my previous post on tilt (above) ...is this a result of bowing ..because I see this only in 'Theaterwide 1'....for the other theater settings the issue is probably there but because a part of the picture gets cut off I cant see it. I have searched the forum and there are several mention of bowing of the picture.

Any input?
post #1934 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by Rudy1
All players (regardless of cost) with the Faroudja 2301 & 2310 chips reportedly exhibit some degree of MB. I did not like the Y/C delay problem on the Oppo, I thought the PQ on the Toshiba DVD/VCR combo was underwhelming, and the MB on the Denon 2910 was too distracting to ignore at that particular price point. If the set had a 3rd component video input, I would've stuck with the Zenith DVB318....I need the existing 2 component video inputs for my OTA and cable DVRs.

Thanks Rudy1! I thought about the Panny S97 and Zenith DVB318. But I have a collection of R2 and 3 movies, so I will need a region-free player. Plus, I want to have Divx/Xvid support as well. I guess I may be better off getting a Momitsu V880DX. So far I don't see much complaint with Y/C delay and MB(not a Faroudj 23xx). Or maybe I will wait for the next round of upconvert player.
post #1935 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by TReX8
Thanks Rudy1! I thought about the Panny S97 and Zenith DVB318. But I have a collection of R2 and 3 movies, so I will need a region-free player. Plus, I want to have Divx/Xvid support as well. I guess I may be better off getting a Momitsu V880DX. So far I don't see much complaint with Y/C delay and MB(not a Faroudj 23xx). Or maybe I will wait for the next round of upconvert player.

I applied a firmware "revision" to the Zenith DVB318 I've got in my bedroom to enable it to play discs from all regions, and I haven't had any problems with it. I don't believe this unit will play Divx/Xvid discs, however.
post #1936 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by Rudy1
I applied a firmware "revision" to the Zenith DVB318 I've got in my bedroom to enable it to play discs from all regions, and I haven't had any problems with it. I don't believe this unit will play Divx/Xvid discs, however.

There is a firmware that makes the DVB318 region-free? I heard good reviews about the 318 but never pay close attention to it. Time to read up... What about those DVI/HDMI and HDCP issues? Do you have any problem connecting the 318 thru DVI -> HDMI? Or you just use the component instead?
post #1937 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by kdog044
The only benefit I could see is for someone who has a really crappy scaler in their TV or STB.

What about this idea; manufacturers could provide video inputs on the upscaling DVD players and output thru the HDMI connection. The units would need an ADC for these inputs, then pass the signals to the upscaler section...what could that be...$50 more maybe?.

Hmmmm, everything processed at 1080i or 720p thru the HDMI output...it would be niiiceee.
post #1938 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by TReX8
There is a firmware that makes the DVB318 region-free? I heard good reviews about the 318 but never pay close attention to it. Time to read up... What about those DVI/HDMI and HDCP issues? Do you have any problem connecting the 318 thru DVI -> HDMI? Or you just use the component instead?

The Zenith DVB318 performs best at 1080i over the component video outputs. DVI performance is not very good---the color smearing and image retention issues remain even on those units that have been upgraded (with firmware) to correct the white crush problem on the DVI output. I did not encounter any issues with this player using a DVI/HDMI cable. However, you must remember to always turn the TV on first, then the source, when using the HDMI inputs on the Toshiba DLPs. I believe this holds true for all displays equipped with DVI and/or HDMI inputs.

You should be able to find a firmware hack (to allow multiregion playback) on this site: http://www.videohelp.com/
post #1939 of 8197
Thread Starter 
I finally got my ATI HDTV component adapter
for my Radeon 9600SE card.

http://www.ati.com/products/hdtvadapter/index.html
(carefull only works on certain models)

The Quailty is terrific
compared to using the HDMI (via DVI to HDMI cable)
input for PC display.

This is both good and bad news. Good since It allows me
to finally get acceptable quality PC display. The bad
is that this confirms all the HDMI/DVI input problems
people have had with this model (52HM84).

That said the price continues to plummit for the Toshiba DLP.
I saw an online add (for a B&M store) in the LA times with this
model for $2000....a bargain at that price even with
*ucked* HDMI input. The composite inputs are soo sweet.
I did hear (in this thread) that there was somekind of hardware
fix for the HDMI situation expected in Feb/Mar 2005. If anyone
knows about this kindly sound up!
post #1940 of 8197
Hi guys:

I just picked up the Toshiba 52HM84. I realized if I am watching regular 4:3 ratio with the grey bars on the side, the bottom 2 corner of the picture is 'sticking out'. Is there anywhere I can do the adjustment on 'trapezoid' or 'geometry' adj? Or it has to go to the service menu? If so, can anyone teach me how? Thank you so much for you guys help in advance.

PS: Can I change the grey bar to black bar?

PS: What kind of 'preference adj' on video you guys are using? I have the S&V calibration disc, but wanna get some kind of a reference number, coz I am a newbie.

Tom
post #1941 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by cfung
I just picked up the Toshiba 52HM84. I realized if I am watching regular 4:3 ratio with the grey bars on the side, the bottom 2 corner of the picture is 'sticking out'. Is there anywhere I can do the adjustment on 'trapezoid' or 'geometry' adj? Or it has to go to the service menu? If so, can anyone teach me how? Thank you so much for you guys help in advance.

PS: Can I change the grey bar to black bar?

PS: What kind of 'preference adj' on video you guys are using? I have the S&V calibration disc, but wanna get some kind of a reference number, coz I am a newbie.

Tom

I can't help you with the first problem but I can answer your other two. The grey bars can not be changed on the set. There is an ADDR mode that exists with all Toshiba sets and earlier models could be changed. Nobody has managed to figure out if that is still possible with the DLP's and if so what the hex code is for it. The only way currently to change the bars is if you are using a STB and change 4:3 override to off. From what I understand this outputs the signal in HD resolution so the STB has to put black bars in the signal to fill the screen. Until you have a calibration disk you can experiment with some of these I have collected from various users.



In the review of the 52HM84 by William Becker (see DLPTVreview.com), he suggests:

with the bulb set to HI BRIGHT
CONTRAST = 65
BRIGHTNESS = 67
COLOR = 48
TINT at R2


Here are a few more.

My initial calibration using high lamp, medium color temp:

contrast 65
brightness 55
color 45
tint r6
sharpness 50

I found contrast very hard to adjust and used William beckers setting.

contrast 65
brightness 35
color 55
tint 0
sharpness 42

For cable box hookup
Contrast 66
Brightness 45
Color 55
Tint 0
Sharpness 25
Color Temp Medium

For direct cable hookup on ANT1
Contrast 65
Brightness 45
Color 50
Tint -15
Sharpness 25
Color Temp Medium



Keep in mind there are set to set variations. This means you really have to tweak your set.
post #1942 of 8197
Do not forget to make those changes starting from MOVIE mode, which then changes to PREFERENCE. It is the way to turn Edge Enhancement off.

Paul
post #1943 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by pbir
Do not forget to make those changes starting from MOVIE mode, which then changes to PREFERENCE. It is the way to turn Edge Enhancement off.

Paul

Paul, do you know this for a fact? I know with the older CRT's that was how to disable SVM (Scan Velocity Modulation) but wasn't sure if it applied to an equivalent feature with the DLP's and if making the changes via MOVIE mode still apply.
post #1944 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by cfung
Hi guys:

PS: What kind of 'preference adj' on video you guys are using? I have the S&V calibration disc, but wanna get some kind of a reference number, coz I am a newbie.

Tom

I can tell you that your first settings will have to be changed by the next month. Also, I like to take advantage of the widescreen and since our TVs do an excelent job of zooming and stretching this is how I see everything:

4:3 = Theaterwide 1 (final portion of sides stretched, easy to get accustomed and excelent for general TV viewing)

Widescreen DVD = Start in Full (anything below 1.85:1 fills the screen), if you see bars (2.X:1) change to Theaterwide 3 and stay if image looks good (depending on movie, bars will get very thin and the image will stretch height a bit), if not go back to Full. Sometimes you'll get a movie that has bigger bars than usual (ex. Armaggedon from Criterion Collection), for this you can test Theaterwide 2, but it's rare.

Widescreen TV programing = Usually they go for a ratio that's bigger than 1.85:1 (ex. Battlestar Galactica), but not quite 2.X:1; use Theaterwide 3.
post #1945 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by kdog044
Paul, do you know this for a fact? I know with the older CRT's that was how to disable SVM (Scan Velocity Modulation) but wasn't sure if it applied to an equivalent feature with the DLP's and if making the changes via MOVIE mode still apply.

I do not know that for a fact, but it has worked on my older Tosh 50HX81 and I have taken the habit of always starting from the MOVIE mode. I have read this thread from the start, as well as the documents it references every now and then and have seen no indication on how else to disable SVM.

Paul.
post #1946 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by pbir
I have read this thread from the start, as well as the documents it references every now and then and have seen no indication on how else to disable SVM.

Paul.

Paul, just to be clear, there is no such thing as SVM on fixed panel displays. I have seen reference to edge enhancement on certain DLP's but I haven't found anything on Toshiba displays. It would be nice to find out though.
post #1947 of 8197
Quote:


Originally posted by cfung
Hi guys:

I just picked up the Toshiba 52HM84. I realized if I am watching regular 4:3 ratio with the grey bars on the side, the bottom 2 corner of the picture is 'sticking out'. Is there anywhere I can do the adjustment on 'trapezoid' or 'geometry' adj? Or it has to go to the service menu? If so, can anyone teach me how? Thank you so much for you guys help in advance.

PS: Can I change the grey bar to black bar?

PS: What kind of 'preference adj' on video you guys are using? I have the S&V calibration disc, but wanna get some kind of a reference number, coz I am a newbie.

Tom

I just got my Toshiba 52HM94 yesterday and noticed the same geometry issue on 4:3 standard mode. It kind of looked like this:




Is this normal for a DLP tv?

Mark
post #1948 of 8197
Folks

I have had this TV for just over a week.

Look at the attached picture .....see how the picture is tilted to the right.

Look along the bottom and move from left to right the white part slowly dissapears as you go the right.

Although not evident in this particular picture many times a gap opens up along the left side of the picture the gap being gradual from bottom to top and widest at the top.


IS THIS NORMAL?

Please help ....any body seeing the same thing in their TV?

I measured the tilt to be about 0.2 inch...

Please advise whether I should call it in to Tosh service..?

Any help appreciated.
LL
post #1949 of 8197
Not normal>

New equipment = call service. Too expensive to tinker with.
post #1950 of 8197
Quote:


original from Victor Nowik
That said the price continues to plummit for the Toshiba DLP.
I saw an online add (for a B&M store) in the LA times with this
model for $2000....a bargain at that price even with
*ucked* HDMI input. The composite inputs are soo sweet.
I did hear (in this thread) that there was somekind of hardware
fix for the HDMI situation expected in Feb/Mar 2005. If anyone
knows about this kindly sound up! [/b]


Yeah, I heard it too........from one of the sale man from BB in Toronto, Canada. He said that one the service Rep from Toshiba Canada told him that, but so far I haven't been able to find out any more info's on this fix.
Anyone else heard anything..................?
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